A 


SUMMER'S  TRAVEL 


®0  iM  »  (^tmm  Wfrnt. 


PROVIDENCE,  E.  I. 
SIDNEY   S.  RIDER  &  BRO., 
17  "Westminster  Street. 
1864. 


INTENDED  FOR  A  PREFACE. 


"Copy  for  Title  Pcage,  Table  of  Contents,  Preface,  &c.,"  comes 
imperatively  written  on  the  last  " proof"  from  the  printer!  Call  the 
book  this,— says  one  suggestion.  No,  not  that,  it  is  too  pretentious; 
call  it  thus.  No,  that  is  too  common.  What  is  the  book?  Simply  a 
reminiscence  of  a  summer's  travel  to  find  a  German  home.  Call  it  so, 
then.  "Written  by  vrhom?  A  world  renowned  cosmopohte,  ^hose 
keen  vision,  inquisitive  research  and  graphic  sketches  have  interested 
a  large  circle  of  admiring  readers?  No!  By  a  distinguished  literary 
genius,  whose  writings— of  wide  repute  for  brilliancy  of  thought, 
beauty  of  language,  pungency  of  wit— have  carried  him  to  the 
highest  pinnacle  of  fame?  No!  Written  by  ar-simply  by  a  partici- 
pator in  the  details  of  a  business  life,  more  familiar  with  the  "journal 
and  ledger,"  rules  for  "  equation  of  payments,"  and  finding  the  mate- 
rial to  make  them,  laws  of  trade  and  financial  calculations,  than 
rhetorical  treatises  or  belles-lettres.  Wliy  pubhshed?  To  gratify 
the  inmates  of  a  happy  fire-side  circle.  To  whom  dedicated?  To 
no  one,  fearing  what  might  be  intended  as  a  compliment,  would  be 
a  reproach.  "Was  not  its  publication  presumptuous?  Please  reply 
after  perusal  A  first  effort?  Yes,  and  the  last  %  Deal  gently  in 
criticisms  and  kindly  oblige 

THE  ATJTHOE, 

Peoyidence,  1864. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


T. 

Why  they  are  in  type. — Leaving  home. — Cheerful  hearth  stone. 
Wood  fires.— Insatiable  curiosity. — Unexpected  tarrying's.— Humanity's 
weakness. — "  Last  link  broken  " — Restricted  quarters. — A  model  Skipper. 

II. 

Pleasures  of  a  sailing  ship.— Nautical  time  and  bells. — Neptune's 
.  poets   and  songs.— Milk   superfluous.— New   England    sansets. — The 
■  first  "Blow  Out"— The  "Stars  and  Stripes."— A  marine  fight.— "Who 
are  you?" — Boys  lost!— A  Harmless  "  Sewing-Circle." 

in. 

Rambling  mentally. — "Fourth  of  July." — A  shrouded  flag!— In- 
subordination threatened,— A  "  bite"  of  a  rope.— Sympathy  misplaced. 
A  sailor's  life  ashore. — "  Oh  dear  me,"  without  deception.— Exhilara- 
ting occupations. — A  tussle  with  time. — A  spunky  brig. — Rotation 
versus  progress. — "Lancers  and  the  German,"  surpassed. — Sounds  not 
always  melodious. — A  phrenological  development. 

IV. 

"John  Bunyan,"  on  the  ocean. — Important  communications  and 
interesting  facts.— New  system  of  medical  skill,  &c. — A  sunset  at  sea. 
Genuine  Havanas. — A  sick  doctor.— Ups  and  downs.— Locomotive 
changes  intelligible.— Scraping  without  the  bowing.— Clandestine  com- 
munications.—Possession  is  satiety. — Marine  aiiimalculae, — "  A  Life  on 
the  Ocean  Wave."  • 


VI. 


CONTENTS. 


V. 

Clouds  and  sunshine.— Land  ho!— Wonders  of  the  hunoan  mind. 
The  land  of  neutrality  and  consistency,  "Old  England."— Over  the 
water. — Anticipated  collisions. — Pleasant  recognitions. — Complications 
of  the  English  coast. — No  progress  if  not  retrogression. — An  invaluable 
pilot.—"  Old  fogyism  "  in  the  ascendant.— A  marine  earthquake  ?— Old 
friends  and  a  midnight  bore!— Up  the  Thames. — Woolwich,  Greenwich^ 
and  Blackwall.— An  appeal  for  Jack. 

VI.  •  • 

Curious  walking. — Unintelligible  terms.— Thames  steamers.— The 
deep  green  sea  and  inky  waters.— A  mechanical  monster.— Great 
Eastern. — London,  by  river  and  railway. — London's  masses. — London 
Police.— "  Hansom  Cabs." — Eyes  and  ears  open. — Family  quarters. 
Railways  and  house  tops. — News  from  home. — Last  night  of  "ship" 
board." — Yankee  notions. — Traveller's  friends? — Disarranged  wardrobes. 
Officious  and  official  espionage.— The  steward's  kindness.— Traps, 
trunks,  cars  for  London.— Through  the  Custom  House! 

vn. 

A  married  man's  duties!— A  family's  persons  and  luggage.— Perilous 
times. — Ascending  weight,  descending  shillings. — Another  "last  link 
broken."— Rolling  seas  and  soup. — Downright  falsehoods,  alias  courte- 
sies?—kn  extensive  cradle  rocking.— Byron  collars  and  neck  ties. 
You  would  if  you  could.— Sunday  chimes.— True  courtesy.— What  a 
lady  should  expect. — Rambling  from  church  to  concert  rooms. — For- 
malities of  the  English  church  service.— English  clergy  and  talent— Rev, 
Mr.  Spurgeon.— Reformations.— Rank  not  genius  or  worth.— London 
time,  and  home  time.- John  Bull's  solidity.— Dinner  tables  and  their 
contents- 

VIIL 

London  indescribable.— Its  sameness  and  varieties.— Humanity's 
phasps. — Crowded  thoroughfares.— Dajiight  and  midnight.— Westmin- 
ster Abbey.— Murray's  hand-books.— To-day's  original.— Kings  and 
Queens.— Children  and  nurses.— A  Venezuelan  gentleman  and  close 
observer.- Our  country's  future.— The  monumeift  to  religious  freedom, 
and  its  author. 

IX. 

Paul  Pry's  wisdom.— New  Palace  of  Westminster.— Houses  of  Lords 
and  Commons.— Satisfied  curiosity.— Thames  Tunnel. — St.  Paul's  Cathe- 
dral.— Benjamin  West'^cpulchre.— Unanimously  wearied  —Repulsiveness 
of  English  hotels.— Memory's  flowwrs. —Smoking  dearly  prized.— White 


CONTENTS. 


cravat  and  black  suit  not  always  clerical.— Boots  elevated  or  depressed. 
Appearances  deceitful. — A  pleasant  chamber  for  retiring. — Xo  accounting 
for  fancy. 

X.  , 

Woman,  loved  when  truthful,  but    if  deceitful.— A  visit  to 

Madame  Tussaud's. — Exceptions  to  English  discourtesy.— British  Museum . 
Fatigue,  Relief,  and  Harmony.- Close  driving.— Botanical  beauties  and 
Zoological  wonders. — Pleasures  of  locomotion  from  common  causes,  and 
a  contracted  understanding. — Not  the  "  Sparkling  Moselle  !" — A  return 
to  shipboard,  and  substituted  wardrobes. — Stray  tears,  and  sorrowful 
partings. — Vexation  changed  to  sympathy  in  a  justifiable  dissatisfaction. 
A  bargain,  not  a  bargain. — Shoals  and  sand  bars. 

XI 

North  Sea. — Want  of  affinity  or  adhesiveness. — Night's  developments. 
Copies  from  Hogarth. — Realities  and  varieties. — Fairy  land  pictured.— Sun- 
day, but  no  service  by  fonn  or  creed. — Holstein  and  Hanover.— Stade 
duties.— The  Elbe  and  its  beauty. — All  hands  "  detectives."- Pistols  and 
coffee.— Time's  changes.— The  boy  a  man! 

xir. 

Hamburg.— The  great  fire  of  1842. — Streit's  Hotel— Juvenile  tempta- 
tion and  investments. — Walking,  dri-^^g,  and  sailing. — Jew's  quarters. 
Not  always  "room  for  another!"— Beer  concerts.— Subterranean  music. 
Female  participants. — A  fireman's  experience. — Must  not  smoke,  boys! 
So-called  "  Lager  Beer."— The  true  subject  for  sympathy. — Costumes  and 
their  appropriateness. — American  ladies'  idea  of  cleanliness. — German 
burials.— Babel  surpassed.— German  cemeteries. — Swans.— Demand  for  the 
"  shears."  but  none  for  the  dentist! 

XIII. 

German  peculiarities.— Observance  of  Scripture  rules. ^German  melody 
and  music— Ideality  of  name  realized. — Pretty  "  Vierlanders." — American 
cosmojfclitanism. — Railway  Stations  not  conducive  to  suavity  of  manner 
or  speech. — Crinolines  and  poodle  dogs. — Five  Germans  and  we  three  " 
in  a  smoking  coupe. — A  regretted  courtesy. — Live  or  die! — Storks  and 
cranes. — Kiel,  Steamer  Princess  and  Capt.  Coke. — Summer  eve  at  sea. 
Danish  coast. — A  fellow  traveller's  story  of  the  same  travel. — Hotel 
Royale. — Ideality  disappointed^- Joseph  Alver,  "  our  "  Commissionaire. 
Bloodless  battles,  from  artillery  assaults. — Natures  dirge. 

XIV. 

Copenhagen. — Museum  of  Natural  History.— An  evening's  pleasures. 
The  Alhambra.- Hot  waffles.— Brilliant  pyrotechnics. — Pleasure  for  the 


CONTENTS. 


masses.— True  philanthropy. — Love  of  the  beautiful. — Tho.rwalsclen. 
An  appropriate  mausoleum. — The  origin  of  genius  and  fame. — Museum 
of  Northern  Antiquities. — Mementoes  of  the  past. — A  novel  road-way.  * 
Natural  instincts. — The  fellow  traveller  once  more. — A  genuine  matinee. 
A  struggle  agairfft  the  current.— Refined  appreciation  of  dress  by  sensible 
women. 

XV. 

Danish  soun.l  dues. — Tribute  refused  by  an  American  ship. — Elsineur. 
Honest  labor. — A  comfortless  ride. — Royalty's  aversion  to  luxuries. 
Royal  Museum. — Churches  and  prisons  —Prison  discipline. — Total  de- 
pravity questionable.  —  Cork-screw  and  dragon-tail  spires.— A  well 
arranged  life  exterminator. — Democratic  admiration  of  Royalty. — "Run- 
ning with  the  machine." — A  Copenhagen  fire.— Family  reunion. — Official 
courtesies.— The  "  Vierlanders  "  again.— Injudicious  advice.— Unpleasant 
reflections,  the  more  so,  because  truthful! 

XVI. 

Frederick  the  Great.— Exchange  no  robbery. — Royalty's  love  of  dogs. 
No  "eaves-dropping!" — Scandal  mongers'  Sahara. — "Twenty  minutes 
past  two." — Russians  in  Germany. — Railway  officials. — Railway  luxuries. 
•Cannot  go  wrong. — Time  tables  and  registers.— Yankee  curiosity  crushed. 

•KVIT. 

More  of  foreign  railways.— The  vitiated  air  of  American  cars.— Nausea 
.and  its  pains. — Want  of  communication. — "Fools,  Aristocrats,  and 
Americans."— Orders  issued  and  count^^rmanded. — An  angry  man's  bless- 
ing.—German  "  Alhambra,"— Royalty  in  domestic  life.— Weight  of  silver 
when  pressed. — Fashionable  veracities. — The  Princess  a  wife. — A  young 
man's  royalty. — A  seven  years  war  not  exhaustive. — A  treacherous  sur- 
face and  mimicry  of  skating. — A  mother's  love  — A  luxurious  apartment 
in  the  "Rittersaal." — Royal  Museum. — Berlin  and  its  attractio;is. — Atran- 
.quil  "  Spree." — Curious  distortion  in  sculpture.— Ornaments  of  Berlin 
iron  —Woman's  patriotism  —"  United  we  (would)  stand  "  o^  ladies 
union.  .  ^ 

XVIII. 

Agreeable  companions. — Stimulated  anticipations  to  be  realized. — Be- 
fore and  after  the  laundress. — Compen'^ations  of  a  slow  train. — Cavalier 
hats,  bad  exponents  of  wrinkles  and  grey  tresses. — Rejuvenation  made 
repulsive.— A  model  Englishman. — Advantages  of  a  "  slow  coach."— Ex- 
patriation of  two  families. — A  four  by  six  feet  kitchen. — Yankee  and 
German  breakfast  contrasted.— Appropriatenesss  of  the  Litany  in 
daily  life. — German  schools. — Dresden  at  8  P.  M. — Inspection  of  forces, 
•&c.— Our  German  home!— Ascent  and  descent  of  hopes  and  stairs. 


CONTENTS. 


IX.- 


**  Kitchen"  desecrated.— Revival  of  home  and  hope.— Caelebs  surpassed. 
English  and  Yankee  fraternization.— Rational  gratifications,  or  the  substi- 
lutes  demanded. — "  Der  Freischutz." — Whose  frowns? — Old  and  New 
Dresden,  to  a  traveller,  no^  a  sojourner. — Positive  relief  and  reaction. 
Blasted  hopes.— The  Museums,  Historical  and  Natural.— Colt's  revolvers, 
original? — Men  and  musCTi  of  olden  times.— Chivahy  as  it  was,  not  trea- 
son or  traitors. 

^  XIX. 

Hahnemann  and  Meissen.— Fashionably  being  out.— Homeopathy 
versus  Calomel  — The  "  Vogel-Schiessen." — Deceptive  appearances  of  the 
"Sonne,"  (Sun.)— Enigmas  "  and  their  exponents. — The  "Dom,'  (or 
Cathedral  )— Porcelain  manufactory. — Elastic  purse  strings. — The  "Pot- 
ter's clay"  and  wheel. — Simplicity  of  power  and  the  beautiful. — Contrast 
of  the  producers  with  their  productions  — Conception  more  agreeable  than 
description, — The  "  Saxon  Switzerland  " — Peculiarities  of  its  beauties,  &c. 
Geology  confirmed. — Bastei  and  the  Elbe. — Beauty  and  boldness.— Na- 
ture's harmony. — Writing  a  book  of  travels  in  a  business  office. — Guides, 
donkeys,  ponies,  &c. — "  Ai-le-o,"  "  Ai-le-u,"  of  Tyrolean  song. —  Liebe- 
thaler.  Das  Thor,  and  the  Teufels  Kiiche. — Artificial  water  fall.— Differ- 
ence between  guide's  fees  and  the  traveller's. — A  "  somerset  "  and  pluck. 
Unpleasant  reminiscence  of  the  dinner  bell. — The  musical  instincts  of  the 
Germans. — Hotel  Dampschiff  of  Schaudau. 

XX. 

Scenery  on  the  Elbe.— Anxious  regards.— Our  host's  excessive  courtesy. 
"World-wide  "  reputation. — "  In  honor  of  your  ag:ival." — A  jaunty  straw 
hat,  and  blue  eyes.— The  trans-Atlantic  rose-bud.— Obtrusive  questions 
and  inquisitiveness. — Walking  sticks  and  umbrellas.— Honesty,  versus 
hotel  customs.— Wildness  and  beauty.—"  Bastei  and  Prebisch-Thor." 
Contest  for  dinner.— Details  of  our  excursion's  end. — Deformities  of 
humanity  amid  nature's  beauties. — A  summer  eve's  sail. — Meetings  in 
"  dream-land."— Konigstein  andLilienstein.— An  original  water  elevator. 
A  sail  upon  the  Elbe.— The  annihilation  of  fatigue  and  discomfort— Nor- 
ma.—Sunday  and  its  observance. — Kautfmann's  musical  wonders  and 
talents.— Music's  charms  to  **  Friends."— Our  old  fellow  traveller  again 
with  us.— A  mother's  love,  the  wife's  sacrifice-—"  Home,  sweet  home." 

XXI. 

The  "  Florence "  of  Germany.— Conscious  inability.— The  different 
schools  of  painting.— Raphael's  Madonna.— Destitution  of  language  for 
the  expression  of  emotion.— Romance  of  the  "  Chocolate-girl."— Music 
at  the  guard  house.— Woman's  /rien<:?5/a/)  — Precious  stones  in  quantity. 
Cost  of  a  "  Great  Mogul."— Birthplace  of  the  "green-eyed  monster.— Dr. 


X. 


CONTENTS. 


Farance  and  his  school  of  mental  and  physical  culture.— A  "sister  fire." 
Mistake  of  American  travellers  in  luggage.— Characteristics  of  dress,  for 
intelligence  and  refinement.— My  office  window  and  the  regard  for  my 
counsels.— Ancient  art. — The  Japanese  Palace. — The  American  "  Prince." 
Lcirsened  parting  sorrows.— An  Austrian  frontier.- Domestic  life  with 
rats  and  mice.— A  faithful  attendant.— Magei^  and  Solferino  prototypes 
of  Fredericksburg,  Petersburg,  and  our  battle-fields.— Southern  chivalry 
at  Sumter  and  its  just  counterpart. 


Homeopathy  and  its  trials  and  successes.— Vienna  as  yet  unseen. 
"  Carrying  the  host." — True  religion,  its  hopes,  and  consolations.— Cheat- 
ing the  doctor.— Self  will,  versus  indisposition — Dresden  once  more- 
Maternal  efforts  and  affection.— A  traveller's  necessity.— Peculiar  and 
effective  railway  signals. — Giessen,  a  German  home. — Salt  works  of 
Saxony. — Interesting  specimens  of  coal  abroad  and  at  home.— Cassel, 
"  Wilhelmsh<")lie,"  and  the  "Cascade  of  Karlsburg."— Hercules  in  copper. 
A  royal  bauble.— Peasant  women  and  babies  —A  rejected  comforter. 
Expansiveness  not  weight. — Suffocation  dreaded  but  not  realized. — Let- 
ters from  home,  with  no  one  there.— Frankfort,  and  the  pretty  market 
girls.— Sensibility  aroused.— Martin  Luther's  residence,  and  Rothschild's 
birthplace. 


Ostracism  of  the  Jews.— Effects  of  a  repudiated  Christianity.—"  Ariadne," 
Zoological  Garden,  and  "  Reynard  the  Fox,"— Humanity  satirized. — An 
English  friend  and  Garman  circus. — "  Young  America  "  a  nuisance. — An 
eai-ly  morning  mass. — An  unexpected  encounter  with  a  fellow  passenger, 
who  was  "doing  up"  the  pleasures  and  luxuries  of  foreign  travel. 
Charitj^  required  outside  the  pulpit.— Giessen  of  romance.  Giessen  of 
fact — A  model  host,  if  a  representative  of  his  hotel  living. — Soaring  aloft, 
in  fact  and  fancy.— Cherished  associations,  versus  parental  remonstrance. 
TT/iO  would  you  have?— Liebig's  school  of  Chemistry. — Chemical  fruits, 
fragrance  and  liquors. -Humanity's  cupidity.— A  merited  reward  for  honest 
labor.— Locomotive  powers  not  always  complimentary. — A  divided  house- 
hold, and  desperate  chances  for  a  reunion.— John  B.  Gough's  loss  of 
John  Gilpins's  ride  surpassed — "  My  Lady's  maid,"  pet  dogs,  and  "My 
Lady's  table."— Sudden  transfers.— Strasbourg.— Live  market.— Cathe- 
dral and  its  wonderful  clock. — Paris. 


XXH. 


XXHL 


XXIV. 


Domestic  life  in  Paris.— A  Frenchman's  wants  and  their  satiety.— No 
chance  for  misanthropy.— Dull  cares  a  myth.— Yesterday,  to-day,  to- 
morrow.-—" Traps  to  catch  a  sunbeam"  superfluous.— American  asceti- 


CONTENTS. 


XI. 


cism  and  nnpropitious  tendencies.— English  stolidity.— Adaptability  of 
national  traits  and  character— If  the  "  May  Flower  "  had  found  a  south- 
ern landing  place?— Where  are  we?—"  John  White  "  to  see  Paris  by  day 
or  midnight— Forbidden  luxuries  —Inspection  of  Paris—"  See  Paris  and 
then,"  live.— The  routine  of  a  married  man's  acquaintances.— Luxuries 
possibly  allowed  at  home,  never  in  Paris.— My  first  entree  in  Paris. 
Woodman,  and  that  swallow-tailed  blue  coat.— Grapes,  their  delicious- 
ness  and  cost. — A  rare  experiment  with  Consular  courtesies. — Successful 
results.— John  White  unequalled  as  a  commissionaire.— Cab  rules  and 
official  espionage. — An  almost  perfect  system  for  cabs,  hackney  coaches, 
&c.,  for  hire.— A  personal  te^t  of  it.— A  pair  of  black  eyes  and  curls. 
John  White's  efficiency  and  indignation.— Prison  van  — Tour  of  inspec- 
tion commenced.— Prison  Mazas.— Precaution  of  admission. —Construc- 
tion, (^scipline,  diet  and  recreation. 

XXV. 

Prison  Mazas.— Chapel  religious  services. — Means  of  communication, 
"  Parloirs."— Exciting  and  atfecting  interviews,-- Kitchen  and  its  connec- 
tions.— Distribution  of  food,  library,  hospital  arrangements,  punishment 
for  the  refractory. — Officials'  dress.  -  Historical  incident  at  "  Mazas  "—The 
coup  d'etat  of  1851,— The  Emperor  Napoleon.— An  insatiable  ambition. 
The  gathering  storm,  and  restless  upheaving  volcano.— Hot^  de  Ville 
December  1st,  18^)1. — The  brilliant  throng  of  beauty,  science  and  letters. 
The  gathering  of  st^smen  and  divines.™ Thefestivities  of  the  ball  room, 
and  the  damp  chills  of  Mazas.— The  guest  of  the  Hotel  de  Ville.— The 
keeper  and  turnkey  of  Mazas — Moyameasing,  of  Philadelphia,  the  Mazas 
of  Paris.— A  "  thorn  "  in  grapes.— An  inquisitive  attendant,  and  wonder- 
ful candles.  * 

XXVI. 

"  Depot  des  Condamnes." — "  Lead  us  not  into  temptation." — Disci- 
pline modified.— Repulsive  distribution  of  food.— Yankees  outwitted. 
Sole-less  proceedings  in  the  wet  day,  or  "  dewy  eve."—"  Cantines  "  or 
Restaurants. — Occupation  of  criminals,  philanthropy  demands. — "  Prison 
St.  Lazarre"  for  females.— Its  divisions  and  discipline.— Its  inmates. 
Reformation  at  home  demanded. — The  outrage  of  our  streets. — Woman 
and  her  power. — Her  influence  and  her  responsibility. — Prison  dress,  ver- 
sus crinoline,  rouge,  and  "  pearl  powder."— The  bill  of  fare  at  the  Cafe 
"Trois-Freres"  and  "St.  Lazarre."— A  mother's  crime,  and  the  child's  dis- 
honor.—Sisters  of  Charity.™ The  Emperor  and  Empress.— The  attempted 
assasination  by  Pianori.— The  assassin  and  his  intended  victim.—"  Vive 
r  Empereur."— The  Empress's  tears  and  smiles.—Orsini,  the  assassin. 

XXVII. 

Paris,  seen  as  it  should  be  — American  peculiarities  in  two  events.— An 
incomplete  catalogue  of  pleasures,  treasures  of  art,  and  the  fascinations 


XII. 


CONTENTS. 


of  Paris  and  its  environs.— A  diseased  mind  and  distorted  vision. -^A 
niisanthrope. — Shavint?  under  torture.— A  simple  head-rest  wanting. — The 
baker's  shop  from  the  barber's  window.— What  a  people. — A  Frenchman 
X>rompt  but  once  — A  distressing  calamity.— A  widowed  bride  and  a 
stranger.— Where  home  was.— Railwav  companions.— Your  "passport" 
and  the  franc. — English  Channel,  Folkestone.— Baskets,  tempers,  and 
trunks  ruffled.— London.— Rev.  Dr.  Cummings  of  "  Crown-Court,  Long- 
Acre." — Church  rules  for  strangers.— English  courtesy. — "St.  Paul's" 
and  its  canon,  a  great  bore.— Our  Venezuelan  friend.— Our  country's 
future.— The  accursed  rebellion.— A  dull  clay  but  pleasant  evening  from 
Miss  Mc— — 's  harp.— A  search  for  a  shave,  not  by  a  Jew. — A  sensitive 
face  and  heart. — Sydenham. — Stoke  churchyard  and  its  sacred,  hallowed 
thoughts. — A  warm  heart  but  erring  nature. — May  the  Ivy  gi-ow  for 
my  . 

XXVIII. 

The  reformatory  institutions  of  England.— Boys'  Reform  School. 
Home  for  fallen  vromen. — Ragged  School  of  St.  Giles.— "  Prevention 
better  than  cure"— London  by  midnight.— " Search  after  happiness," 
alias  a  fortune. — Herald's  College.— The  London  Times  office. — A  varied 
day  and  avocations.— Rev.  Newman  Hall,  "of  Surrey  Chapel,  Blackfriars 
Road."— Ii^ndon  fog.— Temple  Church.— St.  Barnabas,  Pimlico,  and 
its  Puseyite  fooleries. — Tremont  House,  Boston.— Fields  Inn  Lane. 
Ragged  Schools,  and  night  refuges  for  the  homele^ — A  fearful  locality. 
Training  for  experts  in  crime.— Not  a  "  Fifth  Avenue  "  Exchange.— The 
Ragged  Schools,  their  scholars*  and  training.— Another  "  pair  of  blue 
eyes,"  but  no  "jaunty  straw  hat." — England's  destitution  of  education 
for  her  masse*.— The  loyalty  of  My  Lord,  and  the  beggar  boy.— How  long 
in  its  duration? 

XXIX. 

Middlesex  House  of  Correction,  its  capacity,  arrangement  and  disci- 
pline.— Occupation  and  dress  of  its  inmates.— Tread  mills.— Capt.  Craig's 
courtesy  and  efficiency. — A  model  institution. — As  written,  this  chapter 
was  "  No.  52."— Its  appropriateness  as  the  closing  one.— A  deacon's 
coffee  house.— Half  a  mile  in  the  rain  for  a  penny  stamp.— A  stupid  cab 

driver,  and  the  blue  eyes  again. — Miss  McC  's  harp  — Last  night  in 

London.— Once  more  a  "last  link  broken."— A  cheerless  ride,  but  a 
warm  welcome  from  a  warm  hearted,  whole-souled  lady. — Terrible 
storms. — An  English  banquet  hall  aud  guest.— The  Blind  School.— Old 
Chester.— Eton  Hall  and  My  Lord's  courtesy.—"  Good  bye,"  "  God  bless 
you,"  "  a  safe  voyage,  and  speedy  return  to  us." — New  mail  arrange- 
ments.— A  heavy  gale. — Dangerous  passage. — A  misstep,  its  pain  and  its 
Christian-like  endurance.— Our  fellow  passengers.— The  voyage  is  over! 
Home  again— The  Ivy  from  Stoke  Churchyard.— " Tread  lightly." 
**  Speak  gently." 


A  SUMMER'S  TMYEL  IN  EUROPE. 


I.. 

WHY  THEY  ARE  IN  TYPE  LEAVING  HOME. 

A  FEW  years  have  passed  in  their  noiseless,  varied  track 
of  sunlight  and  cloud,  mirth  and  sorrow,  hope  and  doubt,  with 
warm,  loving,  friendly  greetings,  and  cold,  selfish,  heartless 
repulses,  since  the  mandate  of  impaired  health,  judicious 
friends  and  parental  yearnings,  placed  us  on  ship-board  for  a 
sea  voyage.  And  as  memory  runs  back,  through  the  number- 
less incidents  attendant  upon  leaving  business,  home,  friends 
and  haunts,  it  recalls  most  vividly  the  appeal  and  effort  for  a 
"  foreign  correspondent"  urged  upon  me.  A  natural  hesitancy 
in  occupying  a  too  prominent  position — at  least  in  type — want 
of  opportunity  in  the  "  hurry  of  travel,"  and  the  fear  of  a 
worse  than  futile  effort,  were  considerations  of  sufficient  mo- 
ment to  prevent  at  that  time  the  fulfillment  of  the  request. 
But  the  hope  of  recalling,  ere  too  late,  the  many  pleasing  inci- 
dents of  travel,  alone  impels  my  pen  in  its  hasty  progress  upon 
the  fair  sheet  before  me. 

The  almost  annihilation  of  time  and  space,  produced  by  the 
rapid  movements  of  the  oceanic  and  sumptuous  sea-residences, 
at  once  foreclosed  the  thought  of  so  short  a  "  life  upon  the 
ocean  wave."    And  after  examining  every  vessel  known  as  a 


2 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


"  Liner,"  in  New  York,  and  visiting  Boston  in  a  despairing 
mood,  the  best  of  fortune  awaited  us,  (my  family.)  in  finding 

the  new,  beautiful,  staunch,  comfortable  ship  ,  at  her 

^harf,  in  Boston,  advertised  for  London,  June  — ,  1 8 — .  An 
examination  of  the  vessel,  an  interview  with  her  gallant  cap- 
tain, an  introduction  to  his  brother,  (the  owners  and  builders,) 
left  no  time  for  deliberation,  so  strong  were  the  inducements 
to  engage  at  once  the  three  very  large  and  comfortable  state- 
rooms upon  the  larboard  side  of  the  spacious  after  cabin.  As 
it  would  awaken  unpleasant  recollections  of  wearisome  days 
and  nights,  in  taking  down  and  packing  up  the  innumerable 
little  souvenirs  and  larger  accompaniments  of  a  quarter  of  a 
century's  house-keeping — I  was  married  very  young,  and  the 
necessity  of  providing  for  a  family's  comfort,  in  hot  weather 
and  cold,  wet  weather  and  dry,  sea-sick  and  home-sick,  as 
some  might  be — I  shall  spare  the  reader  and  myself  the  pain- 
ful infliction  of  a  tedious  recapitulation. 

Pleading  guilty  to  a  little  stratagem,  in  bidding  our  nearest 
friends  good  night,"  instead  of  "  good  bye,"  we  were  up 
betimes,  on  Thursday  morning,  June  — ,  18 — ,  for  an  early, 
sad,  half-eaten  breakfast,  and  the  first  train  for  Boston,  in 
answer  to  a  telegraphic  summons,  that  "  we  expect  to  sail 
Thursday  morning."  With  a  few  kind  friends  to  accompany 
us,  and  one  no  less  dear  to  meet  us,  we  left  the  station,  sad 
and  sorrowful,  for  untried  scenes  and  dangers  to  that  portion 
of  my  family  whose  experience  in  life  had  been  limited  to  thp 
bright,  joyous  hours  of  childhood's  dreams  and  pleasures ; 
tinted,  I  trust,  with  golden  hues  by  the  cheerful  light  of  our 
hearth-stone,  and*  sparkling  as  the  embers  of  our  pleasant  hick- 
ory wood  fireside.  And  if  it  were  pardonable  here  to  digress 
and  add  another  sigh  to  our  sorrow,  it  would  be  for  the  blight- 
ing loss  to  childhood  of  the  fond,  enobling,  soul-enlivening 
influences  that  should  cluster  oround  the  cheerful,  blazing  fire- 
light of  their  earlier  years  ;  and  as  my  eye  is  arrested  by 
the  announcement  of  some  newly  patented,  or  re-arranged  an- 


• 


"wood  fires." 


3 


nihilator  of  childhood's  pleasantest  realities  of  home,  miscalled 
"  a  pure  air  heating  apparatus,"  fresh  sighs  escape  at  this 
farther  innovation  of  a  lung-destroying,  health-exterminating 
process,  as  one,  of  the  many  mis-called  comforts  and  luxuries 
of  our  modern  homes.  And  many  times  have  I  wondered, 
that  the  pen  that  so  graphically  told  us  the  story,  that  "  he 
hooked  three  dollars,"  should  have  lain  still,  and  not  aroused 
the  sensibilities  of  the  past,  and  the  reformation  for  the  future  ; 
as  it  could  so  touchingly  tell  us  of  the  old  "  settle,"  beside  the 
kitchen  fire  of  four  foot  logs  ;  the  roasting  chestnuts  and 
apples,  by  the  embers  upon  the  "  dining-room  hearth  ;"  or  the 
fire  place  in  "  mother's  chamber."  "  Oh,  would  I  were  a  boy 
again" — and  to  my  boyhood  carry  back  the  boys  and  girls  of 
to-day,  who  in  their  martyrdom  to  "  hoops  and  flounces,  stand 
up  collars  and  fob-chains,"  are  so  httle  conscious  of  a  fireside's 
pleasures,  and  so  little  know  wha!  it  used  to  be,  to  be  a  hoy 
and  girl! 

But  the  may  have  sailed  while  I  am  memory-roam- 
ing over  that  pleasant  old  farm  and  house  in  ;  and 

fearing  they  may  "  pull  in  the  plank,"  before  we  hurry  aboard, 
I  shall  leave  it  for  others  to  ask  our  "  three  dollar"  friend  to 
take  up  his  pen  when  I  lay  mine  down. 

We  arrived  in  Boston  in  "  due  course  of  mail ;"  chartered 
carriages  and  wagons,  for  friends,  selves,  traps,  etc.  With  an 
indefinite  feeling  of  anticipated  pleasure  and  anxiety,  we  tra- 
versed the  intervening  streets  of  New  England's  metropolis,  be- 
tween the  station  and  the  wharf.  The  younger  members  of  the 
family  eagerly  availing  themselves  of  the  assistance  of  the  crew, 
soon  were  aboard,  and  almost  as  soon  were  missing.  A  search  • 
after  the  "  hidden  treasures,"  revealed  the  proclivities  of  child- 
hood's curiosity  and  buoyant  hopes.  An  anxiety  "  to  know 
how  it  would  seem,"  or  rather,  perhaps,  the  half  finished  nap 
of  an  early  rising,  suggested  the  wish  to  "  try  the  berths." 
Nicely  stowed  away,  under  coverlet  and  blanket,  the  truants 
were  found,  answering  our  anxious  search  by  the  positive  as- 


4 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


surance  that  it  was  "  first-rate,"  and  to  know  "  if  they  couldn't 
stay  there  till  to-morrow  morning."  Our  friends'  examination 
of  the  strength  and  comfort  of  ihe  ship  were  highly  satisfac- 
tory ;  and  the  prayers  for  our  comfort  and  safety,  so  far  as 
human  forethought  could  provide,  would  assuredly  be  ans- 
wered. The  reception  by  the  captain  was  more  plain  than 
Jigiirative.  "  Why,  what  are  you  all  doing  here  ?"  was  his 
greeting.  "  Getting  our  traps  and  things  aboard."  "  But  we 
don't  sail  to-day."  "  Not  to-day  ?"  .  "  No,  possibly  not  to-mor- 
row." "  Why  not  ?"  "  Because,  we  are  not  ready."  "  But 
the  telegraphic  message  said  Thursday."  "  So  it  did,  the  first 
one,  but  the  second  didn't."  "  I  know  nothing  of  a  second," 
was  the  response.  But  crediting  our  hopes  and  wishes,  rather 
than  our  friends'  assurances,  we  lingered  about  our  future  home 
until  the  time  for  the  return  of  those  kind  friends,  the  mem- 
ory of  whose  kindness  for 'years,  has  made  bright  many  a 
clouded  day.  With  smiles  and  tears,  prayers  and  blessings, 
we  parted.  They,  to  tell  of  our  detention  at  home ;  we,  to 
pack  up  in  a  smaller  space  the  necessary  articles  of  wardrobe 
and  toilet,  for  an  indefinite  residence  at  the  Tremont  House. 
Wearily  and  thankfully  an  early  couch  was  sought ;  and  gentle 
Morpheus  never  had  more  willing  captives  to  his  wooing 
charms  than  those  of  whom  we  speak. 

The  next  morning,  nature,  sympathizing  in  our  milder  sor- 
rows, shed  its  rain  drops  as  tears,  and  kindly  initiated  us  in 
the  first  lessons  of  that  patience  and  7^o/^-locomotion  to  which 
we  were  so  soon  to  become  daily  learners,  if  not  practitioners. 
A  visit  to  the  ship,  a  telegraphic  message  to  and  from  home,  a 
pleasant  family  gathering  in  our  rooms,  the  partaking  of  the 
"  good  cheer"  of  "  mine  host,"  allowed  time's  movements  pla- 
cidly to  pass,  and  we  again  roamed  through  the  sweet,  bright 
visions  of  the  past,  present  and  future,  amid  the  unrestricted 
wanderings  of  our  dreaming  thoughts.  A  clouded  sky,  on 
Saturday  morning,  seemed  the  unwelcome  harbinger  of  a  pro- 
tracted stay.    Breakfast  over,  the  ship  was  our  first  object  of 


humanity's  weaktTess. 


5 


interest.  In  answer  to  the  oft-repeated  inquiry  of  "  Captain, 
shall  we  sail  to-day  ?"  we  received  the  reply  given  to  the  other 
passengers,  friends,  hangers-on  and  sailor  boarding  house  keep- 
ers, "  yes,  at  flood  tide,  after  dinner,  two  o'clock."  Upon 
seeking  for  the  stewardess,  we  found  the  female  "  packing  up 
her  duds"  to  go  ashore.  Her  ardent  temperament  had  suffered 
most  conspicuously  in  contact  with  congenial  "  spirits,"  and  as 
it  was  presumed  that  all  that  was  in  the  pantry  or  the  passen- 
gers' trunks  were  not  solids  or  sea-clothes,  a  further  test  of 
her  power  of  self-denial  was  deemed  unnecessary,  and  the 
poor  specimen  of  humanity's  weakness  and  love  for  drink  was 
moved  ashore.  The  steward,  a  well-proportioned,  tall,  athletic 
colored  man,  was  put  upon  the  track  of  a  substitute  ;  and  two 
or  three  hours  before  sailing,  this  indispensable  personage 
came  aboard,  sober  then,  but  slightly  suspected  on  the  voyage, 
more  than  once,  of  having  deceived  the  steward  more  by  her 
representations,  than  by  any  certificate  of  her  being  a  teeto- 
taler or  a  temperance  advocate.  Returning  to  the  hotel,  a 
telegraphic  message  home,  that  "  we  start  at  three  ;"  the- duties 
of  repacking,  dinner  eating  and  bill  paying  were  hastily  per- 
formed. A  parting  kiss  to  those  who  still  lingered  with  us  in 
our  indefinite  tarrying,  forming  the  last  link  of  home  and 
friends,  was  given  and  received ;  and  with  tears  and  "  God's 
blessing"  mutually  invoked,  we  again  found  ourselves  on  board. 
A  large  number  of  friends  were  assembled  for  a  similar  "  good 
bye,"  to  our  fellow  passengers.  The  steam-tug  was  along-side, 
the  pilot  on  board,  high  water,  and  the  order,  "  cast  off — let 
go,"  assured  us  that  we  were  from  homeward  bound.  The 
active  crew,  all  sober,  (nine  Ameiicans  out  of  the  whole  num- 
ber— twelve  ;)  the  making  sail,  and  for  the  first  time  "  spread- 
ing canvas  to  the  breeze  ;"  the  three  cheers  fi)r  the  noble  ship 
and  her  captain  ;  the  gradually  receding  dome  of  the  Capitol — 
all  too  plainly  convinced  us  of  our  "  whereabouts,"  and  our 
exposure  to  the  "  danger  of  the  seas."  Outside  of  the  lower 
light-house  the  steam-tug  left,  taking  from  us  all  but  those  who 
1*  , 


6 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


were  to  be  our  companions.  Three  cheers  again,  and  the 
waving  of  hats  and  handkerchiefs,  joyous  wishes  and  tearful 
responses,  soon  closed  our  communications,  and  sadly  we  found 
"the  last  link  was  broken."  A  dispersion  to  our  various 
quarters,  stowing  away  of  bonnets  and  napped  hats,  shawls 
and  summer  over-coats,  more  critically  examining  the-  length, 
breadth  and  depth  of  our  rooms  and  berths,  and  the  effort  to 
maintain  a  cheerful  nonchalance,  wore  away  the  few  remain- 
ing hours  of  daylight  and  twilight.  The  tea-table  brought  us 
all  together,  and  we  found  ourselves  a  pleasant  party  of  six 
ladies,  seven  gentlemen  and  two  boys,  as  first  cabin  passen- 
gers, and  one  from  Vermont,  and  a  nurse,  in  the  second  cabin 

list.    Among  the  ladies,  the  wife  of  the  Captain,  Mrs.  , 

stands  pre-eminent,  on  account  of  the  buoyancy  of  her  dispo- 
sition, sweetness  of  her  voice,  and  benevolence  of  her  heart ;  as 
through  our  long  passage  of  thirty-five  days,  I  recall  no  one 
hour,  except  at  night,  when  our  comfort  and  pleasure  was  not 
cared  for,  and  her  hand  was  not  administering  to  the  sickness 
or  wants  of  the  forecastle.  Our  captain  was  worthy  of  his 
.wife.  For  twenty  years  a  "whaler,"  his  knowledge  of  every 
rope  and  spar  was  complete  ;  his  ability  in  command,  judg- 
ment and  execution,  unsurpassed.  A  mind  well  stored  with 
poetry  and  belles-lettVes,  history  and  fiction  ;  a  bearing  courte- 
ous and  gentlemanly,  and  a  liberality  of  heart  and  purpose, 
frequently  called  from  us  expressions  of  friendship,  and  the 
hope  that  our  "skipper"  was  the  type  of  American  shipmast- 
ers. And  if  this  most  worthy  class  of  our  fellow  citizens  could 
but  appreciate  the  effect  of  their  presence  and  influence,  as 
they  move  about  the  world,  representatives,  it  may  be,  for  the 
first  and  last  time,  of  our  noble  republic,  I  am  sure  the  ac- 
knowledgment of  what  they  can  be,  would  be  an  earnest  of 
what  they  will  be. 


11. 


PLEASURES  OF  A  SAILING  SHIP — OUR  FIRST  "BLOW  OUT." 

Sunday  morning,  June  26th,  found  "  all  hands  on  deck"  at 
an  early  hour,  as  the  first  night  of  restraint,  and  vivid  recol- 
lections of  a  wide  mattress,  steady  bedstead  and  freedom  from 
anxiety,  most  generally  relieves  one  from  the  stupidity  or 
headache  attendant  upon  a  too  sound  and  unbroken  slumber. 
We  were  out  of  sight  of  land,  a  light  breeze  from  a  favorable 
point  of  compass,  and  a  steady  ship,  with  a  gentle  swell,  a 
bright  sun  and  the  bracing  air,  created  a  remarkable  degree 
of  unanimity  in  the  qustion  of  "  steward,  what  time  is  break- 
fast ?"  "  At  eight  bells,"  was  the  reply.  "  AVhat  time  is  it 
now  ?"  "  Six  bells."  This  was  very  indefinite  to  us,  but  by 
the  mate  we  were  kindly  informed  that  "  six  bells"  was  seven 
o'clock,  and  "  eight  bell?"  eight  o'clock.  So  very  familiar 
were  we  in  a  few  days  with  this  division  of  time,  and  the 
starboard  and  port  watch,"  that  it  was  a  customary  repjy, 
after  landing,  to  speak  of  the  hours  as  designated  on  shipboard, 
by  the  bells.  It  was  a  constant  source  of  congratulation 
during  this  delightful  voyage,  that  so  very  favorable  an  oppor- 
tunity was  offered  for  the  younger  passengers  to  acquire  a 
knowledge  of  sea  life.  By  a  rigid  observance  of  the  rules  of 
the  ship;  a  prompt  and  cheerful  obedience  to  the  wishes  and 
requests  of  our  Captain  and  his  officers,  an  unabated  flow 
and  elasticity  of  spirits  {ardent  but  not  intoxicating^  and  a 


8 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


ready  talent  at  sketching  persons  and  things,  they  soon  ingra- 
tiated themselves  with  the  crew  and  all  others.  And  the  "  dog 
watch"  and  "  grub  time"  furnished  frequent  opportunities  to 
liear  "  long  yarns  spun,"  learn  how  to  tie  a  "  bowline,"  and 
catch  many  of  the  words  and  air  of  the  peculiar  songs  of  the 
forecastle,  which  came  with  true  melody  aft,  or  which  lightened 
the  strokes  while  "  pumping  ship."  And  when  memory  re- 
calls the  sights  and  scenes  of  other  days,  frequently  the  story 
of  "  that  gale  of  wind,"  or  the  cook's  butchering  of  the  sheep, 
pigs,  ducks,  &c.,  or  the  fancied  reveling  in  the  steward's  dough- 
nuts and  "  home-made  gingerbread,  is  interspersed  by  the 
song  of — 

♦  In  eighteen  hundred  and  forty-  two, 
1  bid  my  native  land  adieu, 
To  see  what  I  could  find  to  do, 
In  working  on  a  railway. 

♦*  In  eighteen  hundred  forty -three, 
I  cross'd  the  deep  and  boisterous  sea. 
To  find  the  cash 't  would  bring  to  me 
In  working  on  the  railway. 

"  In  eighteen  hundred  forty -four, 
I  firs<  stood  on  Columbia's  shore, 
From  it  again  to  rove  no  more. 
While  working  on  the  railway."   &c.,  &c. 


As  the  poor  exile's  verses  were  ended  "  In  eighteen  hun- 
dred forty-nine,"  we  cannot  repeat  them  here.  Or,  perhaps  it 
was— 

•*  A  poor  old  man  came  riding  by, 

Chorus — And  they  say  so, 
And  I  hope  so. 


♦*  This  poor  old  man  came  riding  by, 
Chobus^ — Oh,  poor  old  man,"— 


MILK  NOT  A  NECESSITY. 


9 


And  wlien  the  order  came  to  "  pull  away  on  the  main  brace," 
"  a  long  pull,  a  strong  pull,  and  a  pull  altogether,"  was  stimu- 
lated and  regulated  by — 

*'  Haul  on  the  bowline, 
The  noble  ship  is  rolling,  ^ 

Chorus — Haul  on  the  bowline, 
The  bowline — haul !" 

•  The  negro  melodies  were  very  agreeahly  accompanied  by 
two  or  three  voices  of  more  than  ordinary  capacity  and  sweet- 
ness, and  a  full  chorus  of  the  ship's  crew.  The  day  continued 
very  fine  ;  dinner  at  one  and  tea  at  seven,  served  to  mark  its 
progress.  The  evening  found  us  in  the  cabin,  with  hymn 
books ;  and,  as — 

*«  Softly  now  the  light  of  day, 
Pades  upon  my  sight  away, 
Free  from  care,  from  labor  free. 
Lord,  I  would  commune  with  thee." 

was  sung  by  us  in  unison.    Our  gratitude  was  expressed  in — 

**  Glory  to  thee,  my  God,  this  night, 
For  all  the  blessings  of  the  light ; 
Keep  me,  oh,  keep  me,  King  of  Kings, 
Under  thine  own  Almighty  wings." 

The  unbroken  stillness  without,  atid  the  calm  serpnity  that 
followed  our  evening's  worship,  seemed  suggestive  of  that 
"  peace  which  passeth  understanding,"  and  induced  an  early 
separation  to  our  respective  rooms. 

Monday,  June  57th,  fine  weather  again,  with  light  winds. 
Breakfast  without  milk,  Avas  our  first  experience  with  coffee 
and  tea  in  their  natural  strength  and  color.  We  had  upon  the 
table,  (among  the  many  luxuries  supplied  us  so  generously 
from  the  ship's  pantry.)  preserved  milk.  But  a  good,  honest 
cow,  would  have  bten  indignant  at  a  comparison  of  this  drab- 


iO 


A  SU3IMKR's  travel  IN  EUROPE. 


colored,  semi-fluid  compound,  with  the  action  of  "  chemical 
alHnit y"  in  nature's  laboratory.  I  say  /lOJiest  coav.  Our  AAorthy 
venders  of  milk,  on  shore,  would  greet  me  with  a  lawyer's 
ca|)ia.s,"  if  I  should,  for  one  moment,  suppose  any  familiari- 
ty exi.^ting  between  their  can.^  and  the  spring  water,  well  or 
])nmp.  The  reminiscences  of  "  milk  bills"  are  too  many  attes- 
tations that  our  milk  vender  called  his  product  milk — and 
it  certainly  was  a  different  article  from  that  in  the  little  can  on 
our  ship's  table,  both  in  color  and  taste.  But  we  were  soon 
accustomed  to  so  little  an  annoyance  ;  and  when  we  landed, 
it  was  a  subject  for  discussion  :  the  intrinsic  worth  of  milk 
again. 

At  noon  we  came  alongside  the  "  Fairy  Queen,"  of  Glouces- 
ler,  Mass.,  from  which  we  had  a  fine  supply  of  fresh  fish,  and 
in  n3turn,  the  boat's  crew  carried  on  board  a  liberal  acknowl- 
edgment in  pale  ale.  The  vessel  had  been  out  two  or  three 
weeks  fishing.  At  mid-day,  the  log  announced  lat.  43  01,  Ion. 
C7  42.  Tuesday  was  also  a  fine  day  again,  with  seven  and 
eight  knots,  and  lat.  42  45,  Ion.  64  57,  at  noon..  Wednesday, 
another  fine  day,  (with  light  winds,)  was  our  good  fortune, 
and  the  monotony  which  we  found  gradually  trespassing  upon 
our  limited  resources  of  reading,  amusement  and  gOod  nature, 
was  much  relieved  by  the  gambols  of  .the  shoals  of  porpoises 
and  the  sporting  of  the  black  fish  near  the  ship,  and  distinctly 
visible. 

The  sunset  at  night  was  gorgeous  and  beautiful.  It  con- 
vinced me  of  the  truthfulness  of  an  assertion  my  English 
friends  had  frequently  questioned,  when  I  asserted  that  "  I  had 
seen  in  my  own,  native  New  England,  as  beautiful  skies  and 
brilliant  sunsets  as  those  of  Italy's  clime."  And  to  those 
whose  hoi-izon  is  always  limited  by  a  fog,  and  a  blue  sky  is 
almost  an  historical  record,  I  do  not  wonder  at  the  impossibil- 
ity of  their  conception,  or  the  poetry  of  song  and  sentiment  in 
Avhich  the  English  express  their  inspiration,  when  for  the  first 
time  they  see  the  reality  of  a  Claude  Lorraine's  beautiful  pen- 


A  "bloav  out." 


11 


clUngs.  It  is  true,  wc  have  not  the  "  azure  of  an  Italian  sky," 
but  we  have  grandeur,  sublimity,  beauty  and  magnificence,  in 
the  sunsets  of  our  varied  climes  and  seasons. 

Thursday,  June  30th,  was  a  repetition  of  the  previous  live 
days  of  good  weather,  until  noon.  The  log  announced  the 
lat.  as  40  35,  and  Ion.  57  10.  Towards  night  the  sky  became 
overcast  and  cloudy,  and  the  truthful  barometer  indicated 
rather  rough  handling  from  old  Neptune's  attendants.  The 
rain  at  sunset  compelled  us  to  forego  the  luxury  of  a  "  fra- 
grant Havana"  on  the  poop  deck,  and  made  a  retreat  to  the 
cabin  both  practicable  and  necessary.  During  the  night,  the 
sighing  of  the  winds  through  the  ropes,  and  the  very  uncourte- 
ous  contact  with  the  sides  of  our  berths  and  rooms,  too  plainly 
convinced  us  that  all  of  nature's  elements  were  not  harmoni- 
ous ;  and  if  we  had  not  heard  the  full,  sonorous  voice  of  our 
"  Skipper,"  (above  the  noisy  confusion  of  wind  and  water,  flap- 
ping sails  and  stiff  ropes,)  calm  and  steady  amid  the  storm,  I 
confess,  for  one,  I  should  have  been  a  little  anxious  for  the 
result  of  the  conflict  through  which  our  noble  craft  was  pass- 
ing. But  in  quieting  the  fears  of  others,  I  reassured  myself 
of  but  little  danger.  I  have  often  thought  if  the  progress  and 
course  of  our  peregrinations  around  the  cabin  and  state-rooms, 
in  rather  a  questionable  costume  for  an  official  reception,  dur- 
ing that  and  a  subsequent  gale  at  night,  could  have  been  pho- 
tographed, the  recognition  of  one's  self  might  be  more  amusing 
than  dignified.  Morning  at  last  dawned,  and  Friday  was  a 
clear  day  with  a  heavy  sea.  A  good  breeze  was  the  result  of 
the  previous  night's  "blow-out."  At  noon  the  lat.  was  43  41, 
Ion.  53  40.  At  4  P.  M.,  exchanged  signals  with  ship  "  B.  S. 
Kimball,  of  Boston,"  and  the  "  stars  and  stripes"  floated  beau- 
tifully from  aloft.  The  beauty  of  our  national  banner  must 
be  seen  from  abroad  ;  it  is  not  appreciated  at  home.  I  have 
seen  the  flags  of  many  of  the  different  nations,  but  never  one 
that  surpassed  "  the  red,  white  and  blue."  And  as  star  after 
star  is  added  to  its  field,  niav  our  progress  in  intelligence,  vir- 


12 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


tue  and  religion  be  typified  in  the  addition.  The  harmony  of 
its  colors  should  be  emblematical  of  the  harmony  of  the 
States ;  and  God  forbid  that  a  "  star  or  stripe"  should  ever  be 
rent  or  torn  from  this  proud  emblem  of  a  great,  free,  enlight- 
ened, glorious  republic. 

Saturday,  July  2d,  we  had  a  calm — rather  too  quiet  a  day,  as 
a  reference  to  our  log  will  indicate  lat.  43  46,  Ion.  52  30. 
Almost  unconsciously  in  its  passage,  another  week  had  passed, 
and  a  light  breeze,  with  fine  weather,  greeted  our  meeting  on 
deck,  Sunday  morning,  July  3d.  The  day  would  have  been 
spent  with  the  ordinary  quiet  of  a  Sabbath  on  board  a  well 
disciplined  ship,  if  a  marine  conflict  had  not  kept  us  for  over 
an  hour  beside  the  bulwarks.  An  unusual  commotion  of  the 
sea,  about  a  mile  to  windward,  arrested  the  attention  of  one 
of  the  ship's  hands  ;  it  was  at  first,  thought  to  be  the  sporting 
of  a  whale,  as  his  tail  was  elevated  ten  or  twelve  feet  in  the 
air,  immediately  preceding  a  plunge  below.  Other  objects, 
also  visible,  we  supposed  might  be  the  fins.  After  watching 
for  a  little  while,  the  first  officer  told  us  it  was  a  fight  between 
a  "  thrasher,"  sword  fish  and  the  whale.  At  regular  intervals 
the  "  thrasher,"  (with  a  most  powerful  blow,)  would  throw  him- 
self upon  the  whale's  back,  which  was  very  near  the  surface 
of  the  water.  The  sword-fish  beneath,  kept  him  thus  exposed 
by  thrusts  of  his  sword  ;  the  poor  victim  of  this  malevolence 
would  desperately  throw  himself,  so  as  to  *expose  his  tail,  and 
then  plunge  out  of  sight ;  but  his  retreat  was  of  momentary 
duration,  and  the  attacks  of  the  sword  fish  soon  forced  him  to 
the  surface  to  be  again  "  essentially  thrashed."  The  conflict 
was  terminated  by  the  death  of  the  whale.  What  a  comment 
upon  life !  How  strange,  that  in  this  animal  life,  as  well  as 
that  of  humanity,  there  are  passions  of  malice  and  vindictive- 
ness  to  obscure  the  beauty  of  nature.  Here,  at  sea,  where  the 
limitless  ocean,  placid  and  calm  as  a  mirror's  surface  ;  bounded 
only  by  the  horizon ;  as  clear  and  transparent  as  the  hopes  of 
childhood's  ,e;^rliest  inapulses  ^  pn  tljis  Sabbath  morning,  conse- 


"  WHO  ARE  YOU  ?  " 


13 


crated  by  God  to  His  own  especial  honor  and  worship  ;  sur- 
rounded by  a  stillness  oppressive,  where  the  omnipotence  of 
the  Creator  appeared  so  manifest  in  the  grandeur  of  His  cre- 
ation,— here  was  a  struggle  for  life  ;  induced  alone  by  the  in- 
stincts of  these  irresponsible  creatures,  who,  to  our  shame 
be  it  spoken,  are  often  distanced  and  surpassed  by  the  ingenu- 
ity and  refinemen^of  humanity's  worst  passions  ai*d  pleasures. 
"  Two  bells"  called  us  to  dinner,  and  upon  our  return  on  deck, 
"  the  long  agony  had  ceased." 

.  Exhausted  as  w^e  were  fast  becoming,  in  bringing  out  our 
reminiscences  of  the  last  news  upon  shore,  the  predominant 
Yankee  guesssing  and  inquisitiveness  gradually .  developed 
itself  in  ascertaining  "  who,  and  what  are  you  ?"  We  found 
an  ex-judge  from  Boston,  who  involuntarily,  or  by  his  own 
wish  and  consent,  had  acknowledged  the  principle  of  "  rotation 
in  office."  A  member  of  the  Boston  bar,  travelling  to  recover 
his  health  and  cheerfulness.  An  alumnus  of  Brown  University^ 
a  deserter  from  the  laboratory  of  that  Institution,  obeying  na- 
ture's highest  laws  of  filial  reverence  and  respect,  in  sacrificing 
his  own  preferences,  for  a  father's  appeal  for  assistance  in  an 
extended  business.  A  gentleman  mechanic,  a  specimen  of 
whose  talents  on  shipboard  received  frequent  commendations, 
and  the  narratjon  of  whose  adventures,  by  sea  and  land,  at 
Nicaragua  or  the  Sandwich  Islands,  was  interesting.  An  ex- 
captain  of  popularity  and  ability,  from  the  day  line  of  steam.- 
boats  upon  the  North  River.  An  ex-official,  whose  sagacity 
was  displayed  in  discovering  the  truth  "  that  coming  events 
cast  their  shadows  before,"  in  the  shape  of  a  successor ;  and 
whose  honesty  in  admitting  the  fact,  that  "  a  man  after  two 
years  in  ^ce  is  in  other  people's  way,"  might  be  his  greatest 
claims  upon  our  consideration.  A  young  gentleman  from  the 
coal  regions  of  Pennsylvania,  and  from  a  town  of  his  family's 
name,  whose  agreeable  manners  and  social  qualities  made  him 
a  favorite  with  all.  Two  younger  men  (there  are  no  hoys 
now !)  of  good  spirits  and  equal  appetites,  made  up  the  com- 
2 


14  'a  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


plement  of  our  sterner  sex.     But,  like  the  best  wine,  the 

ladies  come  at  the  last  of  the  gathering,  and  Mrs.  ,  the 

wife  of  our  Nicaraguan  friend,  of  pleasant  manners  and  sweet 

voice  ;  the  Misses  ,  ,  •  daughters  of  a  popular  clerk 

and  commander  of  the  old  "  President,"  and  "  Ben.  Fr^klin," 
of  the  New  York  and  Providence  Steamboat  Line,  always 
ready  to  promote  the  pleasure  of  others  by^Jhe  contribution  of 
their  presence ;  the  wife  and  daughter  of  our  sagacious  po- 
litical ex-official — whose  qualities  of  mind  and  character  can- 
not be  impartially  delineated  here — these  made  up  our  social 
circles  of  ladies  and  gentlemen ;  and  candor  compels  me  to 
admit  thai  I  never  knew  of  a  "  sewing  circle"  where  less  harm 
and  positive  injury  was  done  to  character  and  tranquillity,  than 
in  the  daily  meeting  of  these  active  members.  I  shall  not 
risk  my  reputation  for  gallantry,  or  forfeit  my  hope  of  favors, 
by  asking,  if  it  was  from  the  fact  that  the  members  were  all 
previously  strangers  ? 


III. 


"fourth  of  JULY." 

My  last  wandering  fully  justifies  the  title  to  these  hasty  and 
crude  sketches,  as  "  Rambles."  •  If  I  remember  correctly, 
after  an  episode  upon  the  depravity  of  humanity,  and  a  com- 
plimentary notice  of  the  utility  of  "  sewing  circles,"  I  forgot 
to  return  to  the  proper  reflections  for  Sunday.  And  with  an 
humble  confession  for  my  "  errings  and  strayings,"  I  most 
cheerfully  acknowledge  the  salutary  influence  to  which  we  all 
came  willing  captives,  as  the  melody  of  sacred  song  rose  sweet- 
ly upon  "  the  stilly  night." 

Monday,  July  4th,  was  pleasant  and  mild.  Our  younger 
passengers  were  very  indignant  that  so  wretched  a  contrast 
could  be  between  sea  and  shore  of  this  national  holiday.  After 
breakfast,  a  self-constituted  committee  appointed  the  ex-Judge, 
"  orator  of  the  day  ;"  the  ex-ofiicial,  reader  of  the  Declaration 
of  Independence  ;  and  the  ladies,  musical  directors  and  per- 
formers. But  the  double  XX's  reminiscences  of  the  sensa- 
tions produced  by  .a  retirement  from  office,  undoubtedly  pre- 
vented tliem  from  giving  vent  to  any  burst  of  enthusiasm.  The 
ladies  assembled  on  the  upper  deck,  and  "  Hail  Columbia," 
"  The  Star  Spangled  Banner,"  "  The  Red,  White  and  Blue," 
and  "  Yankee  Doodle'  were  "  done  for,"  as  well  as  a  similar 
amount  of  talent  could  do  it.  The  "  stars  and  stripes"  were 
"  run  up,"  after  a  most  unfortunate  suspension  in  the  shrouds 


16 


A  summer's  TRAVEJ.  in  EUROPE. 


by  a  green  liand,  who,  not  knowing  it  to  have  been  a  signal  of 
distress,  most  manifestly  proved  his  appreciation  of  labor  sav- 
ing machines,  particularly  as  the  ensign  halyards  were  foul  in 
the  block  aloft.  A  rapid  succession  of  pistol  shots  from  a 
Colt's  revolver,  answered  for  a  salute  by.  small  arms.  Night 
came  upon  us  with  a  conscience  void  of  offence,  so  far  as  that 
we  had  all  tried,  but  couldn't  get  up  a  celebration.  Query, 
was  our  friend  of  the  distress  signals  a  sf)iritualist  ?  Was  it 
more  by  design  than  accident  that  our  flag  was  shrouded  f 
"Was  it  to  us  the  forerunner  of  what  has  been  ?  an  accursed 
rebellion,  as  unholy  in  its  conception  as  it  has  been  cruel  in  its 
prosecution.  Was  it  emblematical  of  the  distress  of  our  be- 
loved country  for  the  martyred  blood  that  has  been  sh6d  so 
freely  and  gloriously  in  her  defence  ?  Of  the  tears  of  woman's 
love,  w^ailing  for  the  noble  dead  ?  Of  childhood's  guileless,  feeble 
hands,  stretched  in  vain  for  the  grasp  of  manhood's  strength 
to  guide  its  weakness  ?  Thank  God,  the  flag  was  not  Union 
down  ! 

Tuesday,  July  5th,  (lat.  44  43,  Ion.  47  00.)  was  foggy  and 
chilly,  plainly  indicating  our  proximity  to  an  iceberg  region  ; 
and  our  never  too  enthusiastic  impulses  were  somewhat  chilled 
by  the  reflection.  Wednesday  clear,  with  a  light  breeze, 
and  thfe  monotony  was  varied  in  speaking  the  English  bark 
Ellen,  from  St.  Stephens,  lat.  44  4o,  Ion.  44  21.  Thursday 
also  pleasant,  with  a  light  breeze,  in  lat.  45  15,  Ion.  41  11. 
Friday  found  us  in  lat  45  23,  Ion.  37  58,  with  a  continuance 
of  pleasant  weather.  Saturday  wet,  rainy,  and  a  most  un- 
comfortable day;  in  lat.  45  38,  Ion.  36  20.  Sunday  was  an 
exhilarating  day,  with  a  ten  knot  breeze  under  a  cloudy  sky, 
and  which  carried  us  into  lat.  46  23,  Ion.  34  21. 

Monday,  July  11th,  being  on  the  main  deck,  near  the  galley, 
my  attention  was  arrested  by  violent  language  from  the  cook. 
I  passed  the  galley,  and  saw  the  steward  cornered  and  crouch- 
ing under  the  threats  and  uplifted  arm  of  the  cook,  who  was 
holding  a  large  butcher's  l^nife,  as  if  to  plunge  or  strike.  The 


A  NEW  PHASE  OP  SYMPATHY. 


17 


Other  passengers  were  assembled  on  deck  for  their  morning's 
inhalation  of  air  and  appetite.  Fearful  of  a  general  alarm,  I 
spoke  carelessly  to  the  Captain,  (who  canglit  my  meaning,) 
and  asked  him  to  go  forward.    The  galley  doors  were  closed, 

but  soon  opened  by  Captain  ,  and  the  cook  was  forcibly 

expelled  before  his  threats  upon  the  steward  had  beer#executed. 
The  cook  seized  a  large  meat  cleaver  and  refused  to  do  duty  ; 

Capt.  ,  came  aft  and  ordered  the  mate  to  prepare  the 

"  bite"  of  an  inch  rope,  with  which,  when  ready,  he  entered 
into  the  galley,  and  orderd  the  cook  to  beg  his  pardon,  and 
that  of  the  steward  ;  to  promise  never  to  speak  a  word  or  do 
an  act  of  insubordination  on  board  his  ship,  or  he  would  have 
him  put  in  the  shrouds,  and  use  the  rope's  end  until  submission 
came.  The  cook,  (like  all  dastards,)  quailed  before  tlie  steady 
eye  and  word  of  the  captain  ;  and  upon  his  knees,  with  stream- 
ing eyes,  acknowledged  his  error  and  promised  repentance.  So 
i%pidly  had  all  this  passed,  and  so  energetically  met,  that  break-  * 
fast,  (somewhat  delayed  by  the  occurrence,)  was  partaken  of, 
and  not  a  suspicion  of  the  transaction  occurred  to  the  minds  of 
the  other  passengers.  Strange  as  it  may  .seem,  I  was  glad  of 
the  occurrence.  With  many  others,  I  had  so  often  sympathized 
with  poor  Jack,  and  was  ready  to  prosecute  and  persecute 
every  sea  captain  for  the  most  unheaixi  of  cruelties  and  bar- 
barities on  ship-board,  that  this  feature  of  Jack's  sufferings  was 
quite  of  a  different  complexion.  The  cook  was  one  of  the 
worst  looking  men  I  ever  saw.  He  was  over  six  feet  in  his 
stockings  ;  black,  bony  and  muscular,  and  his  face  disfigured, 
(as  he  said.)  by  being  burnt  at  the  great  fire  at  San  Francisco, 
in  Wells,  Fargo  &  Co's  banking  house.  His  hair  was  very 
close  and  gimy  mottled  ;  he  had  no  eyebrows.  And  although 
naturally  of  a  pleasant  disposition,  and  courteous,  yet  I  never 
saw  passion  so  vividly  portrayed,  as  when  I  called  the  Cap- 
tain. My  wonder  is,  that  discipline  ever  exists  on  ^hip-board. 
We  had  a  cre.w  of  twelv^e  smart,  active  men,  three-quarters 
A-nerican,  and  yet  only  four  out  of  the  twelve  but  what  were 
2* 


18 


A  SUJIMER's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


shipped  by  those  living  •  curses  to  a  sailor's  prosperity,  sailor 
landlords  and  shipping-office  keepers.  Their  wages  had  been 
advanced,  not  to  them  or  their  wives,  mothers,  children  or 
friends,  but  to  these  monsters  of  humanity.  And  when  we 
landed  in  dock,  at  London,  the  ship  was  again  the  harvest  for 
a  similar  <^ang,  who  with  smiles  and  promises  stood  ready  to 
take  poor,  moneyless,  friendless  Jack,  and  keep  him  besotted 
with  liquor  and  prostitution,  until  another  chance  came  for  his 
sale  and  transfer,  like  a  dog,  or  worse  than  a  dog.  In  conver- 
sation with  these  young  men,  they  one  and  all  stated  that  the 
boarding-house  keepers,  with  these  vile  means,  were  the  curse 
of  a  sailor's  life.  The  men  are  shipped,  many  times,  without 
a  knowledge  of  where  they  are  bound,  for  how  long  a  voyage, 
or  for  what  pay ;  and  a  story  was  told  me  of  a  peddler  of 
fruit  in  one  of  the  streets  of  ,  who  awoke  from  stupid- 
ity to  find  himself  a  "  hand  before  the  mast,"  for  an  India 
•  voyage.  A  sailor  on  the  former  passage  with  our  own  caj^ 
tain,  (who  was  every  inch  a  man  and  a  philanthropist,)  jumped 
overboard  and  was  lost.  An  inquiry  into  the  ca'ise,  proved 
that  the  man  was  shipped  for  a  longer  voyage  and  a  different 
destination,  (while  intoxicated,)  than  he  su{)po5ed,  as  he  was 
intending  to  return  to  his  home  and  friends,  in  a  foreign  land. 

Tuesday,  July  12th,  in  lat.  47  52  and.  Ion.  25  38,  we  had  " 
pleasant  weather  with  fair  breeze  at  noon,  which  however,  "  as 
fickle  as  the  wind,"  came  round  "  dead-a-head"  at  night.  The 
monotony  of  our  daily  life  was  gradually  developing  the  most 
prominent  traits  of  character  in  each.  And  although  .courtesy 
and  good  nature  were  never  at  a  premium,  on  account  of  the 
regular  supply,  yet  the  "  ho-ho-ho  !"  of  a  yawn,  or  the  "  oh, 
dear  me  !"  from  the  dearer  members  of  our  ship's  family,  were 
not  regarded  as  exceptional  expressions,  but  rather  as  the  reg- 
ular attendants  to  every  seat  or  lounge,  on  deck  or  below.  The 
study  of  navigation  was  thought  of  and  vigorously  prosecuted 
for  two  days.  French  grammars  and  phrase-books  suddenly 
rose  in  value  and  then  depreciated.*  German  answered  for  a 


EXHILARATING  OCCUPATIONS. 


19 


little  jaw-dislocating  study ;  but  the  anxiety  of  proving  the 
truth  of  the  boys'  assurance  of  comfort,  "  that  it  will  be  better 
when  it  is  done  aching,"  stopped  that  occupation.  Tyeing 
knots,  splicing  ropes  and  spun  yarns,  learning  sea-phrases, 
studying  the  ropes  and  spars  ;  trying  to  understand  the  reply 
from  the  wheel,  to  the  Captain's  demand,  "  How  do  ye  head  ?" 
"  East  by  north,  half  north,"  or  some  other  equally  interest- 
ing fact  to  us  landsmen  ;  counting  the  hens  and  ducks,  and 
wondering  if  they  would  give  us  a  bit  of  poultry  when  we 
arrived  off  Gravesend  ;  watching  the  sheep  and  pigs,  whose 
narrow  quarters  at  first,  were  growing  larger  every  time  there 
was  a  murder  on  board  ;  wondering  if  they  felt  sea-sick  ;  lis- 
tening to  our  friends'  history  from  his  second-cabin  quarters  ; 
teilinf  v/hat  honest  industry  would  do — as  he  left  England 
fifteen  years  a^o  and  landed  with  his  wife  and  thirty  dollars, 
to  begin  again  me  story  of  life,  amid  new  scenes  and  home- 
bere^  associations  ;  where  he  went,  and  what  he  did  ;  and 
that  now,  with  a  good  home  and  a  small  farm  in  Vermont," with 
his  wife's  brother  for  help,  he  was  going  over  to  see  his  friends, 
(if  living,)  and  to  take  his  wife's  mother  out  of  the  poor-house, 
to  come  and^live  and  die  with  them  ;  indulging  in  a  regular, 
confirmed  loaferish  way  of  hanging  around,  doing  nothing; 
or  rather  having  nothing  to  do,  and  doing-  it ; — these  and  a 
thousand  other  ways  and  means  were  resorted  to,  in  conflict  with 
father  Time.  It  was  an  earnest  conflict  for  life, .feeling  con- 
vinced that  if  we  did  not  kill  him,  we  might  ourselves,  in  this 
lethargic,  apoplectic  course  of  eating,  drinking  sleeping  and 
gaping. 

Wednesday,  July  13th,  wind  still  ahead,  but  luckily,  being 
a  light  br^rcze,  did  not  materially  vary  our  course  as  much  as 
anticipated,  the  lat.  being  47  19,  and  Ion.  22  35.  Thursday, 
in  lat.  47  37,  Ion.  21  07,  we  were  overhauled  by  the  jaunty 
little  brig,  St.  Peter,  from  Demarara.  A  clean  deck,  well 
stayed  spars,  a  pleasant  captain  and  his  better  half,  looking 
exceedingly  comfortable  and  well  cared  for,  made  this  gallant. 


20 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


trim  looking  craft  a  welcome  companion  for  two  or  three  days  ; 
and  when  we  separated  by  "  stress  of  weather,"  a  feeling  of 
lonely  regret  was  experienced  by  us.  Friday,  in  lat.  47  48, 
and  Ion.  20  13,  was  cold,  foggy  and  with  a  head  wind.  A 
stron<]i:  wind  ahead  was  our  misfortune  all  day  Saturday,  in  lat. 
48  15,  Ion.  19  56.  The  wind  was  light  on  Sunday,  and  a  rep- 
etition of  bible  reading,  psalm  singing,  and  the  usual  restraint 
of  word  and  action,  was  our  best  substitute  for  more  profitable 
services.  In  lat.  48  01,  Ion.  19  18.  Monday,  however,  gave 
us  a  fine,  fair  wind  during  the  day,  in  lat.  48  23^  Ion.  16  58. 
But  at  night  we  found  a  hard  gale  upon  us,  and  increasing  as 
night  approached.  Clos%  reefed  top-sails  and  every  thing  snug 
below  and  aloft,  we  stood  Avatch  through  the  long  night  of 
darkness  and  storm.  Thirteen  and  fourteen  knots  an^our 
was  the  rate  of  ou  *  progress  through  the  wikl  elements  of 
strife  and  discord.  This  speed  was,  however,  slowness  in 
comparison  to  that  with  which  we  found  ourselves  ppsing 
arouiTd  and  about  the  sofas,  table  and  chairs  in  the  cabin.  It 
was  no  "  hide  and  SQ^k"  game,  but  a  catch-and-hold-on-if-you^ 
can  tussle.  And  I  have  a  most  vivid  recollection  of  a  sudden 
lurch,  Avhich  sent  me,  (I  never  knew  hoiv,)  from^  one  side  of 
the  cabin  to  the  other,  in  a  kind  of  doubled  up,  straightened 
out,  back-broken  position.  It  was  under  the  sofa  and  over  the 
table,  and  over  the  sofa  and  under  the  table  kind  of  progress  ; 
and  like  tlie  fellow  whose  head  and  hat  were  thoroughly 
bricked  up,"  it  was  not  the  length  of  the  road  I  travelled, 
but  the  confounded  width  I  could'nt  understand.  It  is  many 
years,  (although  I  am  not  by  any  means  old,)  since  I "  tripped 
the  light,  fantastic  toe ;"  but  on  that  night  it  was  the  h^vy, 
poor,  bruised,  black  and  blue  toe  that  was  more  real  than  fan- 
tastical in  that  tripping !  I  have  heard  many  an  exclamation 
over  the  splendid  "  Lancers  !"  and  "  delicious  German  cotil- 
lion !"  "  What  a  love  of  a  dance  !"  and  "Oh,  such  a  splendid  part- 
ner !"  But  the  "  Lancers"  would  be ,  tame,  and  the  "  Ger- 
man" spiritless,  in  comparison  to  a  dance  on  ship-board,  with 


DANCING  AND  TABLEAUX,  NOT  "A  LA  MODE."  21 


a  heavy  sea,  in  a  gale  of  wind.  It  is  true  you  "  go  up  and 
down  the  middle,"  "  cast  off  right  and  left,"  "  cross  over,"  "  for- 
ward and  backward,"  "  chasse,"  "  balance,"  (if  you  ean,)  and 
"all  round!"  But  the Jigure  is  different  and  so  is  the  step. 
As  to  "  coming  to  time,"  that  depends  less  on  the  music  than 
the  muscle.  wish  I  could  put  down  on  paper,  and  see  it 
danced,  that  night's  motions,  costumes,  and  musical  cadences  ! 
not  instrumental  altogether,  but  mostly  vocal,  as  tlfe  com- 
mingled crashing  and  clashing  of  "  china,  glass  and  earthen 
ware,"  with,  "  oh,  my  foot !"  "  my  arm  !"  "  my  head  !"  "  my 
back  !"  But  my  courage  fails  me  ;  back  again,  with  a  rush, 
come  such  sensations  of  pain,  and  aches,  and  bruises  and 
scratches  !  I  challenge  any  professor  of  the  "  Terpsichorean 
art"  who  thinks  he  has  not  exhausted  the  variety  of  "  step  and 
figure"  that  can  be  danced,  to  prepare  as  original  a  style  as  flits 
through  my  memory  at  the  recollections  of  the  many  storms 
at  sea  through  which  I  hflj^  joassed.  And  as  to  "  tableaux" 
inventors,  the  tameness  of  their  productions  of  attitude  and 
costume,  have  long  since  prejudiced  my  mind  in  favor  of  old 
Neptune's  ability,  whether  in  the  tragical,  comical,  or  painful 
delineations,  during  a  "  gale  at  sea." 

Tuesday,  July  19th,  in  lat.  48  46,  Ion.  16  26,  we  spoke  the 
ship  Mercury,  of  New  York.  Our  younger  passengers  had 
slept  soundly  through  the  adventures  of  the  last  night,  and 
amused  themselves  in  rolling,  as  logs,  from  one  bulwark  to 
another,  across  the  poop  deck,  as  the  ship  rolled  in  the  trough 
of  the  heavy  sea  of  the  previous  gale.  It  was  "fun  alive" 
until  a  miscalculation  brought  them  up,  not  "  all  standing,"  but 
all  in  a  heap,  with  a  thumped  head.  I  am  almost  ashamed  to 
announce  the  singular  fact  that  several  of  the  passengers  con- 
fessed to  a  total  unconsciousness  of  "  last  night's  muss,"  and 
some  had  the  effrontery  to  speak  of  a  head  ache  from  too 
sound  slumbers !  But  as  for  me  and  mine,  we  didn't  sleep^ 
\)Y  even  keep  still ! 


IV. 


IMPORTANT  NEWS  AT  SEA. 

Wednesday,  July  20th,  in  lat.  48  28,  Ion.  14  01,  we  had  a 
good,  favoring  breeze,  and  made  a  cheering  run.  Passed,  at 
distance  to  the  leeward,  a  st^a^jpr  bound  west.  After  tea 
the  ladies  favored  us  with  music,  and  the  night  was  at  hand 
calm  and  starlight.  Thursday,,  lat.  48  33,  Ion.  10  18,  a  light 
breeze  brought  us  up  with  a  sail  we  had  been  calculating  the 
chances  of  meeting  since  early  dawn.  It  proved  to  be  the 
John  Bunyan,"  forty-two  days  from  the  West  Indies,  and 
bound  to  Falmouth  and  a  market.  This  answer  to  our  hailing 
explained  what  I  did  not  understand  before.  In  the  marine 
lists,  I  had  often  seen  reported  vessels  spoken,  "  bound  for 

Cowes  and  a  market."   Captain  informed  us  that  when 

the  markets  of  the  different  ports  were  uncertain,  vessels  on 
consignment  were  ordered  to  stop  at  Cowes,  Falmouth,  &c., 
where  the  Captain  would  find  orders  for  liis  future  action, 
either  from  owners  or  consignees.  This  meeting  of  the  "John 
Bunyan,"  in  her  pilgrimage  "  through  life's  stormy  sea,"  was  as 
cheering  and  pleasant  as  that  of  her  sainted  namesake,  in  assur- 
ing humanity  of  the  final  rest  and  triumph  over  the  elements 
and  passions  of  daily  life.  And  as  some  of  my  readers  ma}* 
not  be  aware  of  the  important  information  communicated  at 


INTERESTING  FACTS. 


23 


sea,  I  will,  as  far  as  possible,  narrate  from  memory  what  trans- 
pired : 

«  Ship  ahoy !" 

"  Aye,  aye,  sir." 

"  What  ship  is  that  ?" 

"  John  Bunyan." 

"  Where  from  ?" 

"  West  Indies." 

"  Where  bound  ?" 

"Falmouth."  ,  . 

"  What's  your  cargo  ?" 
"  Sugar." 

"  How  long  at  sea  ?" 

"  Forty-two  days."  , 
".Who's  Captain?" 
"  Nicholson." 

"  I  have  a  cousin  of  yours  on  board,  Capt.  Nicholson." 
"  What 's  his  name  ?" 
"  Blanchard." 

"  Thank  ye,  Capt.  G  ;  very  definite,  seeing  I  have 

about  fifty  of  that  name." 
"  Fifty  ?" 

"  Yes,  one  hundred  and  twenty-five,  not  counting  the  pret- 
tiest." 

"  This  one  is  W  ."  • 

"  How  are  ye,  cousin  W  ?" 

"  Pretty  well ;  how  are  you  ?" 

"  First  rate  ;  how 's  the  folks  at  home  ?"  « 

"  All  well." 

"  What  are  you  doing  aboard  that  craft,  playing  passenger  ?" 
"  Yes." 

"  Do  you  want  some  cigars,  Capt.  G  ?" 

"  Yes,  and  thank  you,  too." 
•"  Send  your  boat  alongside,  then.'* 
"  Thank  ye,  will  you  have  some  ale  ?" 
"  No,  don't  use  the  stuff." 


24 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


This  Blanchard  was  our  second  ofRcer  when  leaving  port, 
and  was  bound  to  London  to  join  his  former  ship,  the  Bos- 
phorus  ;  but  as  he  became  my  patient  with  an  attack  of  pleu- 
risy, I  doubted  the  propriety  of  his  going  off  to  the  "  Bunyan." 
As  the  boat  lowered,  however,  he  was  at  her  stern,  ready  for 
the  helm.  Perhaps  my  remarks  of  having  a  patient,  requires 
explanation.  I  had  for  many  years  been  a  regular  practitioner, 
(at  home,)  although  I  confess  I  hardly  ever  saw  a  medical 
book,  and  much  less  read  one.  And  consequently  every  case 
that- came  under  my  supervision  would  be  divested  of  any 
prejudice  in  favor  of  allopathy,  homeopathy,  hydropathy,  elec- 
tropathy, or  any  other  pathy.  This,  we  know,  is  an  age  of 
progress  ;  and  as  every  notion,  practice  or  precept  that  is  more 
than  a  month  old,  is  "old  fogyism,"  I  see  no  reason  why  the  study 
of  medical  science  should  not  be  changed,  and  do,  as  I  have  no 
doubt  many  are  doing,  get  the  practice  first,  and  the  theory 
afterwards.  And  if  by  any  chance  the  patient  dies,  or  chooses 
to  grow  worse  during  this  process,  this  condition  cannot  be 
charged  to  a  false  theory.  However,  my^  patient  recovered  so 
far  at  least  as  to  respond  to  the  hailing  and  boarding  the 
"  Bunyan."  The  result  of  this  convalescence  gave  me  the 
cognomen  of  "  Doctor,"  during  the  rest  of  the  passage.  The 
reminiscence  of  this  pleasant  little  episode  awakens  impres- 
sions of  beauty  that  must  be  seen  to  be  appreciated.  The 
can^s,  full  spread,  was  flapping  idly  against  the  masts  and 
spars  of  both  ships  ;  the  regular  swell  of  the  ocean,  marked 
the  most  graceful  delineations  of  motion  in  the  vessels ;  the 
mirror-like  surface  of  the  sea  rivaling  and  reflecting,  if  possi- 
ble, in  increased  gorgeousness  and  splendor,  the  magnificent 
sunset  of  our  earlier  passage  ;  the  regular  stroke  of  the  oars, 
propelling  the  minature  model  of  a  ship's  hull,  with  the  song 
of  the  oarsmen ;  the  unbroken  silence  and  serenity  of  the 
scene  and  the  hour ;  the  hearty  greeting  of  those  long-parted 
friends  and  relatives,  so  far  from  home,  with  so  much  to  ask 
and  so  much  to  tell ;  the  gradually  declining  sunlight  of  hope 


"  UPS  AND  DOWNS." 


25 


a^d  promise  for  tike  morrow ;  the  "  good  bye"  and  return  on 
board, — these  minute,  fractional  parts  of  so  simple  an  occur- 
rence, formed  a  picture  of  beauty  and  interest,  excelled  only 
by  the  fragrance,  not  of  the  "  dew  sprinkled  violet,"  or  the 
rose,  but  of  those  "  genuine  Havanas"  C^apt.  Nicholson  sent 

Capt.  and  his  passengers  !    If  his  personal  attractions, 

mental  ami  moral  worth  are  equal  to  his  selection  of  the  "  gen- 
uine," I  advise  that  prettiest  "cousin  to  prevent  herself  being 
ever  counted,  except  as  his  "  better  half." 

During  the  night,  I  had  an  opportunity  of  making  a  practi- 
cal application  of  the  proverb,  (found  in  Luke,  4th  chapter, 
23d  verse,)  referring  most  pointedly  to  my  medical  skill.  A 
variation  and  imprudence  in  diet,  caused  a  relapse  of  my  pre- 
vious indisposition,  in  part.  Many  a  time  have  I  wondered 
liow  it  was  ^ssible  to  change  the  direction  of  action  and  mo- 
tion in  the  cylinder  of  r  locomotive  steam  engine ;  but  the 
transition  from  fever  to  chills,  and  from  chills  to  fever,"  has 
long  since  proved  that  "  some  things  could  be  done  as  well 
as  others,"  and  that  the  locomotive  or  the  weather  were  not 
the  only  things  liable  to  sudden  changes.  A  restless  night, 
succeeded  by  a  sick  day,  prevented  my  enjoying  the  fair 
weather,  or  the  excitement  of  counting  the  "  nineteen  sail  in 
sight."  There  were  many  inquiries,  "  how 's  the  Doctor  ?" — 
and  as  it  is  a  fair  test  to  judge  others  by  one's  self,  I  risk  no 
charge  of  egotism  in  believing  the  "  Doctor"  inquired  for 
referred  to  the  one  in  the  cabin,  not  him  of  the  "galley," 
judging  of  my  antipathy  and  decided  indifference  to  the  sum- 
mons for  breakfast,  dinner  and  tea,  or  to  taking  any  of  the 
"  messes "  prepared  by  the  "  Doctor "  of  the  cook's  galley. 
Lat.  48  48,  long.  9  26  placed  us,  as  was  reported  on  the  log, 
"  on  soundings."  This  intelligence  quickened  alike  the  sick, 
the  well;  and  the  scrapers  of  the  deck,  who  before  moved 
rather  heavily  and  sluggishly,  except  in  the  presence  of  the 
Captain. 

3 


2G 


A   summer's   travel   in  EUROPE. 


Saturday,  July  23,  in  lat.  48  5G,  long  7  43,  we  had  a  fine  day, 
with  light  winds,  and  good  singing  by  the  ladies.  I  had  well- 
nigh  forgotten  to  mention  "a  correspondence,"  which  was  de- 
tected as  passing  from  one  of  the  masculine  passengers  to  the 
wife  of  the  Captain,  This  most  exemplary  lady  was  trapped 
at  last ;  and  strange  as  it  may  seem,  in  the  place  of  indignation 
at  the  exposure,  and  the  cry  of  a  "  man  overboard "  being 
heard,  the  communication  was  even  clandestinely  answered. 
The  fact  of  the  steward  having  made  some  first-rate  "  raised 
dough -nuts,"  and  a  plate  of  them  being  seen  upon  the  cabin 
table,  through  the  sky -light  from  the  upper  deck,  w^as  the  cause 
of  the  occurrence.  I  luckily  found  the  note,  and  risking  the 
consequences  of  exposing  the  parties,  here  you  have  it : 

"  Dear  Madam  : — Please  give  to  the  bearer  two  dou^h-nuts. 

Affectionately  yours, 

G.  B.  D  . 

Mrs.  H.  D.  G  ,  ship  ,  At"" antic  Ocean." 

There's  tor  you ! 

That  soft,  sweet  voice  of  melody,  so  often  heard  on  our  pass- 
age, amidst  the  tempest  and  rough,  stoi  my  sea, — awakening 
emotions  similar  to  the  small,  still  voice  of  Divine  Love  ;  over- 
powering the  sensations  of  fear,  anxiety  and  distrust, — came 
stealing  in  its  sweetness  from  the  cabin,  as  lazily  we  watched 
the  various  forms  of  the  muscular  and  gelatinous  specimens  of 
animal  life  that  floated  by  us,  down  in  the  deep,  clear  blue  wa- 
ters. Some  of  this  jelly-like  substance  we  caught  in  a  bucket. 
To  the  touch  it  had  a  disagreeable  sensation,  and  appeared  as 
an  inanimate  mass  of  consistent  matter.  And  like  many  of 
the  other  fascinations  of  life  and  anticipated  pleasure,  it 
perished  in  the  handling,  and  its  possession  annihilated  the 
beauty  of  its  natural  condition.  The  "  men  of  war,"  as  the 
sailors  call  the  "  nautilus,"  were  beautiful ;  as  glistening  in  the 
sun  beams,  upon  the  deep  blue  of  the  ocean,  they  glided  by, 
wafted  by  the  gentlest  zephyrs  of  a  summer's  day.  The 


"  A  LIFE  ON  THE  OCEAN  WAVE." 


27 


brit,"  (as  it  is  known  to  wlialers,)  upon  which  the  whale  and 
other  large  fish  feed,  we  saw  in  wliat  appeared  as  small  fields. 
This  is  a  minute  fish,  so  srnall  and  indistinct  from  the  ship's 
deck,  that  it  resembles  more  a  mass  of  dissolved  gelatine  than 
life.  A  lazy,  tub-rolling  saw-fish  passed  so  near  to  the  ship's 
bows,  it  was  a  question  Avhether  he  was  not  in  collision  with 
the  stem.  We  had  an  opportunity  during  this  pleasant  pass- 
age, of  seeing  almost  every  wonder  of  the  ocean  ;  every 
variety  of  wind  and  weather  ;  and  of  frequently  testing  our 
ability  "  to  bear  and  forbear."  We  missed  the  "  how  does  she 
head  ?" — rendered  superfluous  by  the  consciousness  that  we 
were  turning  round  almost  upon  a  pivot,  in  dead  calms,  making 
ten  knots  in  twenty-four  hours  ;  but  renewed  again  when  we 
were  rushing  onwards,  away  from  our  course,  with  the.  speed 
of  the  tempest,  thirteen  or  fourteen  knots  an  liour  under  clote 
reefed  topsails.  Those  whose  experience  of  a  sea  life  is 
limited  to  the  unvarying,  systematic  monotony  and  progress  of 
an  ocean  steamship,  can  form  but  a  very  indefinite  idea  of  the 
daily  sources  of  anxiety  and  pleasure,  which  a  sole  dependence 
upon  the  "  wind  and  waves  "  create. 


CLOUDS  AND  SUNSHINE. 


The  morning  of  Sunday,  July  24th,  was  eagerly  hailed  for, 
as  Capt.  G  promised,  from  his  previous  day's  reckon- 
ing, to  show  lis  "  Lands  End,"  if  the  wind  was  propitious  and 
the  weather  clear.  Disappointment  at  first  was  our  misfortune. 
The  morning  was  calm  and  rainy.  But  the  horizon  gradually 
became  distinct,  and  a  favorino^  breeze  broufjht  "  land  ho  !"  at 
two.  and  a  half  o'clock,  P.  M.  A  small,  dim  cloud  appeared 
over  the  port  bow,  hardly  perceptible  to  our  unsophisticated 
vision,  but  gradually  assuming  form  and  substance,  as  we 
followed  the  directing  hand  of  the  captain,  until* the  land  itself 
appeared  in  sight.  Our  Sunday  hymns  of  thanksgiving  and 
praise  were  more  effectively  sung,  and  heartfelt  was  the  prayer 
of  gratitude  which  arose  from  07ie  family  gathering,  at  this  con- 
viction of  that  goodness  Avhicli  had  thus  far  guided  us  over  the 
pathless  sea.  At  nine  o'clock  in  the  evening  the  cry  of  "  light 
ho  !"  brought  us  on  deck,  and  "  Lizzard's  Point  Light"  was  a 
most  cheering  ray  of  welcome  and  gladness,  confirming  us  in 
the  joyousness  of  "  land  ho  !"  at  noon.  It,  to  me,  appears  as 
the  greatest  triumpli  of  mind  over  matter, — this  fact  which  we 
are  now  -illustrating.  AYe  had  loft  home  and  a  neighboring 
port,  for  a  voyage  of  three  thousand  miles,  over  a  pathway 
without  a  guide,  or  a  bound  ;  through  tempest  and  calm ;  with 


"  OVER  THE  WATER." 


29 


favoring  and  adverse  winds  ;  through  midnight  darkness  and 
clouded  skies ;  with  naught  to  direct  us,  but  one  little  solitary 
needle,  isolated  from  all  contact  with  reason  or  skill,  yet  "  true 
as  the  needle  to  the  pole."  The  sun  by  day,  and  the  north 
star  at  night,  the  only  indicators  of  our  progress.  And  as  un- 
certain and  conjectural  as  all  might  have  been,  yet,  in  a  given 
space  of  time,  almost  without  the  variation  of  a  single  hour,  or 
a  point  of  the  compass,  we  found  ourselves  at  the  other  side  of 
the  globe,  surrounded  by  scenes  and  associations,  as  different 
from  our  own  as  the  truthfulness  of  our  trackless  voyage  was 
wonderful.  I  hazard  but  little  in  saying,  that  many  eyes  were 
not  overburdened  with  sleep,  as  we  rallied  again  on  deck,  on 
Monday,  July  25th.  Our  first  communication  with  "  Old 
England,"  was  from  a  little  shallop,  tossing  and  bounding 
about,  over  and  through,  if  not  under  the  billows,  as  she  bore' 
alongside.  Her  crew  of  as  four  hardy,  weather-beaten  looking 
veterans,  as  I  ever  saw,  thoroughly  drenched,  (or  appeared  so,) 
with  the  spray,  hailed  us  to  know  "  if  the  captain  wanted  a 
pilot  ?"  and  also,  "  where  from,  Avhere  bound  ?"  They  were 
Deal  pilots.  Upon  my  return  home,  I  found  the  first  news  of 
our  whereabouts  to  our  friends,  were  through  the  kindness  of 
these  brave  men,  assisted  by  the  steamer  and  the  telegraph- 
The  pilot  boat  "  Flora  of  Cowes,"  No.  5,  also  spoke  us.  At 
noon  we  came  up  with  a  large,  full-rigged  ship,  answering  our 
signal  of  the  "stars  and  stripes  "  with  a  display  of  her  own. 
To  our  surprise  it  proved  to*  be  the  "  Daniel  Webster,"  a  liner 
from  New  York  to  London,  and  by  which  we  had  partially  en- 
gaged passages.  But  as  her  day  of  sailing  was  for  the  IGth 
of  June,  and  our  time  at  best,  hurried  and  short  for  the  con- 
templated year's  absence,  we  left  that  opportunity  for  the 

longer  tarry  at  home  the   afforded  us.    At  6,  P.  M.,  we 

made  "  Start  Point,"  and  at  8|  P.  M.,  were  abreast  of  the 
light.  On  coming  on  deck,  Tuesday  morning,  we  were  in  close 
proximity  with  the  ship  "  InternationaJ,"  for  Boston.  At  noon 
the  "  Bill  of  Portland  "  was  pointed  out  to  us,  and  our  cap- 
3=^ 


30  A  SU.MMF.r's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


tain's  good  nature  was,  as  is  usually  the  case,  taxed, '(not  be- 
yond its  extent,  however,)  by  answering  a  thousand  questions 
of  thoughtless  curiosity,  and  of  but  little  profit. 

Wednesday,  27th,  Catharine  Point  was  passed.  Then  the 
tall,  towering,  white  cliffs  of  Beechy  Head..  Dungeness  was 
eagerly  looked  for,  as  there  the  pilot  to  Gravesend  was  to 
come  on  board.  At  this  time  the  Italian  question  was  on  the 
"  tapis."  AVe  came  very  near  annihilating  all  our  reputation 
for  courtesy  and  good  humor,  in  the  anticipated  struggle  for 
"  the  papers,"  and  in  asserting  what  we  kneiv  had  or  hadn't 
taken  place  ;  then  mo<i  gravely  discussing  the  consequences 
which  had  ensued  upon  our  supposed  occurrence.  But  the 
pilot  or  the  papers  didn't  come  !  and  so  ail  our  fuss  ended  in 
the  smoke  of  a  "  John  Bunyan  "  cigar.  I  sincerely  doubt  if 
the  real  Napoleon  ever  "  had,  can  or  will  have,"  so  hearty  a 
greeting  as  we  gave  a  namesake  of  his,  in  the  shape  of  a  trig- 
looking,  quick  and  powerful  steam-tug,  called  the  "  Napoleon 
of  London  ;"  and  the  pleasure  was  increased  at  the  recognition. 

of  her  Captain  and  Caj^^)tain  G  ,  as  two  years  before, 

nearly  at  the  same  time  and  place,  he  had  towed  into  dock,  the 
beautiful  "  Laughing  Water  "  on  her  first  voyage  from  goston 
to  London,  with  the  saitre  gallant  skipper. 

The  steam-tug  "  Napoleon  "  proved  a  most  valuable  "  friend 
in  need."  Off  Dungeness,  pilots  are  usually  taken  for  Graves- 
end,  and  our  Ca[)tain  was  desiring  one,  to  relieve  him  of  tlie 
anxious  watching  of  the  past  forty-eight  hours.  Approaching 
any  coast  is  more  or  less  a  source  of  anxiety  ;  but  the  Eng- 
lish is  particularly  so,  not  only  on  account  of  its  abruptness  at 
many  points,*but  also  from  the  great  number  of  vessels,  con- 
stantly entering  or  leaving  the  channel :  and  it  is  a  source  of 
Avonder  that  the  collisions  are  so  few,  with  this  liability  con- 
stantly existing.  Consequently,  great  was  the  disappointment, 
as  night's  shades  approached,  to  find  no  signs  of  a  pilot  boat. 
The  Captain  of  the  Napoleon"  rendered  most  efficient  ser- 
vice, in  running  on  and  olBT  shore,  in  the  hope  of  relieving  us 


"old  fogtism"  not  dead. 


31 


from  our  very  awkward  position.  It  is  a  singular  fact,  that 
all  the  pilotage  and  light-houses  upon  the  English  coast  are 
under  the  control  of  a  corporation  whose  existence  dates  back 
to  the  early  part  of  the  sixteenth  century.  The  laws  and 
regulations  adopted  by  this  odious  monopoly  are  severe  and 
rigidly  enforced.  Any  vessel  proceeding  beyond  a  certain 
point  of  the  channel,  Avithout  a  pilot,  incurs  risks  and  penalties 
of  a  serious  nature.  We  had  a  fair  breeze  up  the  channel, 
and  anchorage  was  impracticable  if  not  imposiblel    What  was 

to  be  done  ?    Captain  very  prudently  kept  his  course, 

with  the  utmost  caution  and  constant  lookout.  The  towns  on 
shore  were  now  distinctly  seen  by  the  gas  lights  of  the  streets 
and  houses.  Folkestone  was  passed,  and  near  midnight  Dover 
appeared  abreast  of  us.  The  Captaiji  of  the  steam-tug  tried 
every  method  for  attracting  the  attention  of  a  pilot.  At  la;t, 
by  running  close  in  shore,  a  boat  was  hailed,  and  the  cheering 
news  of  "  a  pilot  boat  on  the  port  bow  !"  was  a  source  of  con- 
gratulation to  those  of  us  who  were  participating  in  our  Cap- 
tain's anxiety.  But  when  the  boat  came  alongside,  a  drunken 
mass  of  humanity  was  rolled  aboard,  and  for  two  hours  he  was 
allowed  to  sleep  off  his  debauch.  The  next  morning  our  con- 
tempt for  him  and  his  dotard  employers  was  increased  by  his 
consequential  assumption  of  authority  in  the  manner  of  using 
his  glass  (telescope)  and  the  constant  orders  to  the  man  at  the 
wheel  to  "  follow  the  steamer,"  which  was  leisurely  moving 
ahead  of  us.  It  is  strange  to  m*that  the  commercial  interests 
o?  England  submit  to  this  old  fogyism  and  monopoly.  The 
revenues  of  one  year  to  the  "  Trinity  House  "  were  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  thousand  pounds  sterling !  (six  hundred  thousand 
dollars.)  If  the  gold-laced,  gilt-buttoned,  epauletted  official, 
who  commanded  one  of  the  steamers  belonging  to  the  corpo- 
ration, which  we  passed  in  going  up  the  Thames,  could  have 
heard  our  comments,  we  would  probably  have  been  followed 
by  a  "  broadside,"  if  there  was  *  the  ability  aboard  his  craft  to 
have  given  us  one.    This  corporation  has  the  entire  charge  and 


32 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


custody  of  the  coast  arrangements,  placing  all  the  buoys,  stakes, 
light-houses,  pilotage,  &c.  Its  charter  of  nearly  three  hundred 
years  should  be  repealed,  and  new  life  and  vigor  imparted  to 
so  very  important  a  branch  of  maritime  service.  It  was  a 
beautiful  sail  up  the  channel.  We  were  quite  near  the  coast, 
and  passed  the  Downs,  South  and  North  Forelands,  where  we 
were  made  fast  to  the  steam-tug.  The  powerful  engine  soon 
enabled  "  all  hands  aloft  "  to  send  down  the  spars  and  canvass 
as  is  customary,  preparatory  to  entering  the  Thames  and  the 
docks.  We  dropped  anclior  on  account  of  the  ebb  tide,  over 
the  bars,  at  noon.  At  4  P.  M.,  the  merry  clink  of  the  wind- 
lass pawls  in  heaving  anchor,  was  interrupted  by  a  jar  and 
commotion  as  if  an  earthquake  had  passed  near  us.  Our 
noble  ship  was  a  model  vessel  in  many  respects.  The  wind- 
lass was  of  the  newest  pattern.  It  power  was  increased  by  a 
combination  of  gearing,  connected  by  a  wedge-shaped  key. 
Owing  to  improper  adjustment,  the  key  slipped  when  the  an- 
chor was  half  weighed,  and  the  lightning-like  rapidity  of  its 
slipping  and  descent  caused  the  vessel  to  shiver  and  shake 
fearfully.  The  accident  came  near  being  fatal.  One  of  the 
crew  Avas  between  decks  stowing  away  the  chain  cable  in  thQ 
chain-box,  and  as  the  anchor  fell,  was  in  great  danger  of  being 
entangled  in  the  upward  rushing  chain.  But  an  instinctive 
and  almost  incredible  jump  saved  him  from  certain  death.  In 
tow  of  the  steamer,  we  entered  the  Thames,  and  at  sunset 
were  safely  at  anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Gravesend,  surrounded 
by  vessels  of  almost  every  size  and  nationality.  Oar  steward 
was  soon  under  orders  for  fresh  meat,  fish,  butter,  &c.    In  the 

evening,  an  old  friend  of  Capt.  and  Mrs.  G  came  on 

board,  and  we  were  soon  posted  up  in  the  stirring  events  of  the 
Old  World.  Soon  another  and  other  fri(^nds  were  in  the  cabin, 
and  if  one  of  them  earned  the  appellation  of  being  rather  "a 
bore,"  it  was  because  he  could  not  or  would  not  take  the  hint 
so  repeatedly  given  him,  that*  "  it  was  past  midnight,"  "  I'll 
meet  you  to-morrow  at  the  office,"  "  mys'elf  and  passengers  are 


"an  appeal  for  jack."  33 

very  tired."  Notwithstanding,  however,  it  was  after  two 
o'clock  before  the  cabin  and  Captain  was  relieved  by  the 
pleasant  assurance  that  "  he  would  be  with  us  early  in  the 
the  morning."  Two  officers  of  the  customs  were  put  on  board, 
under  whose  custody  the  ship  was  placed  until  discharged. 

Friday,  July  29th,  fruits  and  flowers  were  sent  to  the  ship 
by  Mr.  N  ,  whose  -courtesy  and  kindness  to  his  Ameri- 
can friends,  generally,  made  him  the  welcome  guest  of  the 
previous  evening.  At  7,  we  were  under  way  under  the  lead-  * 
ing  of  the  "  Napoleon,"  and  a  different  pilot  from  Gravesend 
to  London.  The  sail  up  the  Thames  was  very  fine,  although 
the  surrounding  scenery  was  not  as  picturesque  or  beautiful  as 
was  expected.  The  smoke  from  the  steam-tug  was  directly  in 
our  faces,  and  our  view  of  the  river  and  its  surroundings  was 
at  times  entirely  prevented  by  its,  density.  Vessels  of  various 
kinds,  and  in  great  numbers,  were  passing  and  repassing,  ren- 
dering great  skill  and  care  necessary  to  avoid  collisions  in  the 
frequent  sinuosities  of  the  river.  The  rendezvous  for  the 
men,  vessels,  &c.,  of  "  Trinity  House  "  with  the  wharf-yards 
filled  with  red  buoys  and  other  appliances  of  their  operations, 
gave  us  an  idea  of  the  extent  of  its  jurisdiction  and  duties. 
The  great  work  shop  of  England,  Woolwich,  the  Marine 
Hospital  of  Greenwich,  and  at  last  Blackwall,  were  success- 
ively passed,  and  at  noon  we  were  alongside  the  pier,  waiting 
for  our  turn  to  enter  the  East  India  Dock.  By  3  o'clock  P.  M., 
this  was  accomplished  and  we  were  made  fast  in  the  berth  as- 
signed to  us,  and  thus,  through  the  blessings  of  Almighty  God, 
had  reached  "  the  haven  where  we  would^e."  But  poor  Jack 
had  less  cause  for  thankfulness,  as  'one  after  another  of  his 
worst  enemies,  but  professed  friends,  came  to  the  ship's  side 
enquiring  after  their  victims.  Who  is  responsible  for  this 
wretched  degradation  ?  Is  it  the  ship  owner  who  employs 
these  human  vampires  ?  Are  the  laws  at  fault  ?  Where  shall 
poor  Jack  turn  for  sympathy  and  relief?  Is  there  no  arm  to 
save  ? 


VI. 


CURIOUS  PEDESTRIANISM. 


It  was  fortunate  for  us  that  our  first  attempt  in  Jive  weeks, 
at  pedestrianism,  was  along  the  docks,  and  not  among  the  busy- 
throng  of  England's  capital.  It  gave  us  strong  reminiscences 
of  our  earlier  efforts.  As  to  the  "  walking  of  a  crack,"  we 
might  as  well  have  tried  "  Blondin's  rope,"  over  the  St.  Law- 
rence. The  earth  never  appeared  so  rough  and  hard..  Its 
steady  diurnal  revolutions  must  have  been  materially  quick- 
ened, for  us  satisfactorily  to  account  for  the  semi-circular 
movement  of  our  feet  and  legs.  And  I  have  often  congratu- 
lated myself  that  I  was  beyond  the  reach  or  vision  of  the 
lynx-eyed  police  (?)  and  thus  protected  from  arrest  as  a 
vagrant,  or  for  being  "  indecently  intoxicated."  (A  term  by  the 
way,  I  never  could  comprehend,  as  I  have  not  the  ability 
of  appreciating  wheji,  or  how,  a  man  can  be  decently  in 
liquor.)  It  was  a  strange  sensation  truly,  our  first  walk  from 
shipboard.  At  Blackwall'landing  stage,  the  facilities  for  com- 
municating with  the  city  proper  are  almost  momentarily,  by 
railroad  or  steamers.  We  took  one  of  the  latter  up  the 
Thames,  for  the  purpose  of  showing  the  juveniles  the  re- 
markable fiicility  with  which  these  small,  quick  steamers  are 
managed.  They  literally  glide  in  and  out,  from  among  the 
numbers  of  crafts,  of  every  variety  of  form  and  size,  with 


A  MECHANICAL  MONSTER. 


35 


which  the  upper  part  of  the  Thames  is  crowded.  The  Cap- 
tain stands  upon  a  bridge,  (extending  from  one  paddle-box  to 
the  other,)  and  his  orders  are  communicated  to  the  engineer 
below,  by  a  soot-colored  urchin  who  sits  across  the  hatchway  ; 
and  as  signalled,  or  spoken  to  by  the  Captain,  cries  in  a  most 
patheticf,  monotonous  voice,  "  Eese-her,"  "  starp-her,"  "  goer- 
ead."  The  water  of  the  river  was  of  a  most  peculiar  color, 
and  its  odor  very  anoying.  We  had  read,  on  our  arrival  at 
Gravesend,  of  the  almost  pestilential  vapors  rising  from  the 
Thames,  and  of  the  apprehension  of  sanitarians,  fearing  a  re- 
currence of  the  plague.  I  plead  guilty  to  a  charge  of  indis- 
cretion, in  thus  so  quickly  exchanging  the  pure,  tonic  atmos- 
phere of  the  ocean  for  that  of  these  ink-colored  ^ters,  con- 
stantly stirred  up  by  the  paddles  of  the  numberless  steamers 
plying  so  frequently  and-  rapidly  up  and  down  the  river. 
The  odor  was  that  of  an  immense  sewerage,  and  more 
powerful  and  pestiferous  at  ebb  tide  than  at  the  ^ood.  Not- 
withstanding all  that  had  been  said  or  written,  I  saw  no  de- 
crease in  the  countless  mass  of  humanity,  doing  business  upon, 
or  near  these  impure  waters. 

Before  reaching  Blackwall,  we  passed  the  large  floating 
derrick,  recently  built  in  London,  (upon  the  principle  of  a 
New  York  mechanic,)  upon  which  were  suspended  the  hulls 
of  two  vessels,  apparently  sunken  wrecks,  of  between  two  and 
three  hundred,  and  one  Ifimdred  tons  burthen,  elevated  some 
thirf)^  feet  in  the  air.  Above  Blackwall,  was  the  eighth  won- 
der of  the  World,  the  "  Great  Eastern,"  appearing  as  a  huge 
elephant  beside  a  most  humble  donkey,  as  we  compared  her 
dimensions  with  the  shipping  around.  This  was  the  fourth 
time  I  had  seen  the  monster.  In  1855,  before  the  vessel  was 
launched,  I  was  on  board,  and  under  the  hull.  From  below, 
the  height  of  her  bulwarks  made  the  paddle  wheels  appear 
as  buttons  upon  the  waistband  of  trowsers.  The  length  was 
not  as  impressive,  as  the  staging  poles  all  around  prevented 
a  fair  observation.    The  wedge-shaped  bows  appeared  sharper, 


36  A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 

in  proportion  to  her  size,  than  the  edge  of  the  iron  wedge  used 
in  splitting  logs.  The  stern,  with  its  opening  for  the  screw,  was 
symmetrical.  A  stairway  of  great  heighth,  (and  circular,) 
conducted  the  workmen  and  visitors,  to  her  main  deck.  The 
depth  of  hold  was  appalling,  and  appeared  as  black  below  as 
midnight  darkness.  The  length  of  the  deck  very  naturally 
suggested  the  ability  of  communication,  forward  and  aft,  with 
sufficient  promptness  to  avert  an  impending  danger.  An  im- 
pressive, comprehensive  idea,  of  its  vastness  and  size  was  im- 
perfect, on  account  of  the  obstructions,  inside  and  out,  of  the 
necessary  platforms,  staging,  and  machinery.  But  the  appear- 
ance and  impression  conveyed  to  the  mind,  was  that  of  some 
inanimat^ monster  awaiting,  in  sullen  silence,  the  bidding  into 
life  that  should  move  its  ponderous  bulk.  At  this  time,  July 
29th,  1859,  it  was  impossible  to  obtain  admission  through  so- 
licitation or  favor,  as  nine  hundred .  workmen  were  employed 
in  completing  the  outfit  for  sea,  within  the  specified  time  of 
three  weeks,  as  (by  contract  with  forfeitures)  was  agreed.  In 
October  of  1859,  it  was  my  intention  to  have  visited  the  ship 
off  Holyhead  ;  but  a  severe  storm,  which  came  near  causing 
her  destruction,  washed  the  embankments  from  a  portion  of 
the  railway,  between  Liverpool  and  Holyhead,  and  rendered 
travelling  difficult,  and  detaining.  We  sympathized  with  our 
fellow  countrymen  of  Portland  in  their  disappointment  at  the 
delay  and  abandonment  of  the  expected  arrival  of  the  vessel 
at  their  port.  But  our  surprise  would  have  been  much  gri.'ater 
then,  if  the  promised  voyage  had  been  performed.  It  would  have 
been  hazardous  to  have  spoken  'of  the  enterprise  as  a  gigantic 
failure,  when  the  morning  papers  mentioned  her  departure  for 
this  country  on  the  16th  of  June  of  the  next  year.  But  we 
can  question  the  practicability  of  her  construction.  Who 
would  have  ventured  his  life  to  make  one  of  the  ten  thousand 
passengers  understood  to  be  her  complement  ?  Where  could 
insurance  be  effected  upon  her  cargo  when  filled  to  her  capacity? 
How  few  are  the  ports  to  which  she  could  find  an  entrance  ? 


London's  masses. 


37 


What  are  to  be  the  expenses  of  her  outfit  of  coal,  stores  and  snp- 
phes  ?  of  her  pay-roll,  for  officers  and  crew  ?  I  can  but  think  that 
the  vessel  exists  only  as  a  wonder  of  mechanical  skill,  without 
claims  of  high  distinction  either  for  the  evidence  of  superior 
mind  in  her  power  and  speed,  but  rather  for  her  size  and  pro- 
portions. And  it  is  passing  a  mild  criticism,  in  sj)eaking  of 
her  as  a  monument  of  extravagance  in  time,  labor  and  capital. 
The  active  sympathy  in  this  remark  of  her  bankrupt  stock- 
holders, would  furnish  a  theme  of  sterner  comments.  In  pass- 
ing up  the  river  from  Blackwall  to  London,  a  much  more  cor- 
rect idea  is  formed  of  the  city  than  by  railway.  The  various 
bridges,  the  locality  of  the  Thames  Tunnel,  St.  Paul's,  the 
Tower,  Billingsgate,  Hungerford  Market,  Somerset  House, 
&c.,  are  better  noted.  But  if  it  is  your  first  trip,  either  by  rail- 
way or  by  river,  any  impression,  except  that  of  the  moving, 
hurrying  masses  of  humanity  and  means  of  transportation,  is 
soon  obliterated  and  indistinct.  Landing  at  London  Bridge, — 
over^which  w^as  passing  a  countless  throng  of  cabs,  omnibuses, 
w^agons,  carts,  donkeys,  horses,  and  almost  every  thing  of  life, — ^ 
upon  the  "  landing  stage,"  (as  all  these  stations  upon  the  river 
are  called,)  and  ascending  the  stairs,  we  found  ourselves  cling- 
ing to  each  other  with  a  firm,  nervous  grasp  of  the  hand,  fearing 
we  should  be  overpowered  and  lost,  in  this  contact  with  the 
hurrying,  crowding,  jamming  mass  of  the  World's  metropolis. 

Wishing  to  avoid  the  confusion  of  the  crowded  sidewalks, 
we  addressed  ourselves  to  a  policeman  in  seeking  for  a  cab,  and 
as  ever  before,  received  a  prompt,  courteous  attention  to  our 
request.  The  police  department  of  London  (as  far  as  I  can 
judge  by  observation  and  personal  contact)  is  one  of  the  best 
organized  of  any  in  the  various  cities  I  have  visited.  In  Paris, 
the  organization  is  strictly  military.  There  are  several  dis- 
tricts in  the  city  of  London,  the  police  of  which  are  distin- 
guished by  difference  of  cuff  trimmings,  &c.  The  dress  is  of 
a  dark  blue  substantial  cloth,  with  single-breasted  body  coats,- 
military  collars,  silvered  buttons,  (indicating  their  avocation,) 
4 


.38 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


a  black  fur  liat,  with  a  crown  of  leather,  India-Rubber  cape, 
and  white  gloves.  They  are  generally  stout,  well-formed,  ro- 
bust men,  and  render  such  services  as  you  may  require,  with 
promptness,  civility,  and  cheerfulness.  My  young  companions 
having  espied  a  "  Hansom  safety  cab,"  among  the  numberless 
vehicles  passing  us,  decided  our  choice.  These  cabs,  are  of  a 
peculiar  construction.  The  body  is  suspended  very  near  the 
ground ;  the  shafts  are  nearly  level  with  the  top  of  the  high 
front  and  the  centre  of  the  large  wheels.  The  axles  are  upon 
each  side  of  the  cab.  The  driver  sits  upon  an  elevated  seat 
behind.  When  you  take  one,  you  step  in  from  the  sidewalk, 
(upon  a  level,)  opening  the  small  doors  which  serve  as  a  pro- 
tection from  the  weather.  As^  you  wish  to  speak  with  the 
driver,  you  raise  a  small  door,  like  a  valve,  in  the  top. 
Facing  the  horse,  you  see  all  before  you,  and  until  "  practice 
makes  perfect,"  you  find  yourselves  absorbed  in  the  apparently 
hair-breadth  escapes  which  are  momentarily  occurring.  Two 
persons  are  very  comfortably  accommodated.  The  price  m  two 
shillings  sterling  (fifty  cents)  per  hour.  The  safety  consists 
in  the  nearness  of  the  body  of  the  vehicle  to  the  ground,  so 
that  if  the  horse  falls,  no  danger  arises  from  having  but  two 
wheel's.  The  novelty  and  excitement  of  that  first  ride  will 
never  be  surpassed  in  the  memory  of  my  young  friends.  And 
the  attempt  which  was  first  made  to  "  Oh,  look  here,"  "  look 
there,"  "  see  quick,"  was  soon  abandoned,  as  the  frequency 
and  rapidity  with  which  new  sights  and  scenes  were  met,  made 
ithe  effort  fatiguing  and  useless. 

Our  first  destination  was  for  "  quarters."  Following  the 
advice  and  direction  of  friends  who  had  previously  been  in- 
mates of  her  family,  as  boarders,  Ave  soon  were  at  Miss  , 

j^o.  6,  —  Square.    After  a  self-introduction  to  our  hostess, 

in  which  was  detected  a  search  for  our  credentials  in  appearance 
and  address,  we  were  fortunate  in  finding  rooms  vacated  the 
day  before  by  a  party  of  Americans  who  had  left  for  the  con- 
tinent.   Our  next  movement  was  for  news  from  home.  And 


"  YANKEE  NOTIONS." 


39 


the  very  popular  banking  house  of  Messrs.  Peabody  &  Co., 
extended  to  us  the  courtesy  so  universally  dispensed  by  them 
to  their  many  fellow  countrymen,  in  handing  us  the  accumula- 
ted stock  of  five  weeks'  letters  and  papers  ;  offering  us  also 
their  services  as  necessity  should  require.  A  drive  to  the  rail- 
way station  ;  a  ride  in  the  cars  over  the  tops  of  the  houses,  and 
a  succession  of  docks,  warehouses,  &c.,  brought  us  to  the 
East  India  Docks  of  London,  at  Blackwall.  Our  ship's  berth 
had  been  changed  ;  and  after  clambering  over  the  sides  and 
deck  of  the  ship  "  America,"  hailing  from  Quebec,  we  were 

soon  aboard  of  the  ,  enjoying  the  rich  treat  of  "  news 

from  home."  We  regretted  the  natural  anxiety  expressed  by 
our  friends  for  our  safety.  Not  a  ship  had  reported  us.  Ac- 
counts of  rough  weather  and  ice  had  been,  published,  and  for 
five  weeks  had  their  affectionate  regard  and^  sympathy  been 
excited,  with  no  alleviation  of  assurance  of  our  comfort  or 
safety.  Grieved  were  we  that  we  had  been  the.  cause  of  this 
unhappiness,  and  grateful  to  God,  that  so  soon  this  anxiety 
was  to  be  removed.  A  last  gathering  at  the  tea  table,  where 
for  so  many  days  we  had  met,  the  recipients  of  kindness  and 
the  participants  of  a  common  fate  and  liability,  followed  our 
letter  reading  ;  and  the  reception  of  flowers  from  the  hosts  of 
friends  of  our  Captain  and  his  good  wife,  served  to.  recall  "  the 
scenes  of  other  days  "  and  flowers  three  thousand  miles  away. 
A  staunch  admirer  of  his  country  and  Queen,  a  warm 
personal  friend  of  the  Captain's,  spent  the  evening  with 
us.  And  the  volleys  of  his  good  humored  sarcasms  upon 
our  tjountry  were  followed  up  by  broadsides  against  John  Bull, 
until  his  reference  to  our  ability  in  making  wash  tubs  and 
clothes-pins,  and  his  offer  o^  a  wager  that  the  only  specimens 
of  our  skill  as  a  people,  which  we  had  on  board,  were  these 
simple  articles  of  the  laundrj^,  "  brought  down  the  house,"  as 
it  was  the  honest  fact ! 

By  arrangements  of  the  night  previous,  those  friends  of 
every  traveller  upon  tfie  continent,  the  custom  house  officials, 


40 


A  SUM^IER's  travel  IX  EUROPE. 


were  early  on  board  to  inspect  our  trunks  and  bags,  prepara- 
tory to  our  final  departure  from  ship  boar^.  This,  as  might  be 
supposed,  was  a  rather  repulsive  operation  to  our  cultivated 
sense  of  order,  especially  as  the  services  of  the  laundress  were 
not  visible  in  the  formerly  nicely  starched  folds  of  her  handi- 
work. Poor,  shapeless  "  dickies  "  and  damaged  "  neck  ties," 
gave  no  impression  of  "  Beau  Brummel's"  appearance.  No- 
thing contraband  was  discovered,  and  an  honest  acknowledg- 
ment of  a  box  and  a  half  of  cigars,  (the  remnant  of  the 
voyage's  luxuries,)  and  a  few  "  John  Bunyan's,"  passed  our 
personal  luggage  over  the  bulwarks.  Tiie  females  of  America  not 
being  yet  compelled  to  the  sight  destroying,  uselessly  extrava- 
gant labor  of  lace  embroidery,  relieved  our  lady  friends  from  the 
more  thorough  search  among  their  cuffs  and  collars,  which  is 
always  attendant  upon  entering  any  frontier  on  the  continent, 
or  England.  We  were  next  ordered  with  our  cigars  to  the 
branch  of  the  custom-house  department  connected  with  the 
docks,  and  here  was  experienced  more  official  discourtesy 
than  I  had  met  with  at  any  previous  arrival  in  England.  The 
half  consumed  box  was  properly  counted  and  weighed.  The 
unbroken  box  was  opened,  counted  and  weighed,  notwith- 
standing the  original  marks,  paper  and  number  were  untouched, 
and  a  duty  of  two  pounds  and  over,  sterling,  was  imposed  with 
an  air  of  authoritative,  ill-assumed  dignity,  much  befitting  a 
more  extended  and  important  transaction  :  and  with  this,  a 
delay  of  over  an  hour  in  waiting  for,  and  upon,  this  diminutive 
official.  It  is  not  difficult  to  conceive  of  our  rather  short  answers 
to  common-place  questions.  The  simple  casuality,  also,  of'the 
steward  dropping  into  the  dock  a  bundle  of  shawls,  basquesJ 
overcoats,  caps,  hoods  and  bookai  getting  all  most  nicely 
sponged  and  soaked,  interfered  most  materially  with  the  flow 
of  tears  we  expected  to  have  set  in  motion  in  bidding  adieu  to 
our  "  home  upon  the  mighty  deep."  Gathering  up  the  moist- 
ened fabrics  of  our  wardrobe,  and  participating  in  the  very 
friendly  way  of  thinking,  when  it  is  better  not  to  speak ;  and 


THROUGH  THE  CUSTOM  HOUSE. 


41 


strangely  forgetting  to  thank  tlie  steward  for  his  kindness  in 
helping  us  ashore,  (we  had  paid  his  fees  and  our  acknowledg- 
ments the  night  before,)  we,  for  the  less  than  twentieth  time, 
counted  over  our  traps  and  trunks  and  took  the  cars  for 
London. 


4* 


vn. 


LUGGAGE  AND  "  TUGGAGE." 

When  I  was  married,  I  had  the  charge  on  first  leaving  home 
for  a  bridal  tour,  of  four  ladies,  eleven  trunks  and  only  six 
band  boxes.  A  most  vivid  recollection  of  the  inequality  of 
the  pavements,  and  the  worn-out  elasticity  of  the  springs  to 
the  hackney  coaches  of  New  York,  is  promptly  recalled  when 
any  occasion  reminds  me  of  my  position  in  one  of  the  two 
vehicles  I  employed  in  transporting  these,  as  my  first  dis- 
charge of  a  married  man's  duties,  from  the  station  of  the 
Providence  steamboats  to  that  of  those  for  Philadelphia.  I 
supposed  that  the  constantly  reiterated  assurances  to  my  com- 
panions then,  that  it  was  "  mo;st  certainly  a  pleasure,  and  by 
no  means  a  task,"  would  have  given  me  an  honorable  relief, 
forever  thereafter,  from  any  similar  duty.  But  my  dear 
reader,  did  you  ever  try  what  it  was  to  pack  up  a  family's  sea 
luggage  on  top,  and  the  persons  inside,  of  two  London  cabs  ? 
Did  you  ever  experience  more  questionings,  in  a  given^  space 
of  time  and  distance,  as  to  ever  reaching  your  destination, 
"  wrong  side  up  ?"  Did  you  ever  as  fully  appreciate  the 
meaning,  in  the  fullest  extent,  of  "  right  side  up  with  care," 
"  haste  makes  waste  "  and  the  like  ?  If  you  have,  I  can  only 
say,  I  ha\^',  too  !  and  if  you  have  not,  why  you  cannot  under- 
stand what  I  might  say,  until  you  have.    The  perils  of  sea  and 


"the  last  link  is  broken." 


43 


land,  and  contact  with  the  cab  drivers  being  over,  we  were 

ushered  into  our  rooms  at  No.  — \  Square.  Satisfied 

that  every  additional  expression  of  the  weight  and  labor  of 
elevating  the  trunks  up  two  or  three  pairs  of  stairs,  was  the 
usual  way  of  communicating  to  the  en^^loyer,  the  expectations 
of  the  miserably  clothed  and  fed  poor  of  England,  everywhere, 
eagerly  awaiting  a  chance  job  and  a  shilling,  to  relieve  the 
stern,  half-supplied  demands  of  nature's  first  instincts  for  food 
and  shelter,  we  prepared  our  minds  and  purses  for  the  fees. 
How  soon  had  all  the  associations  of  our  ship's  life  terminated  !  , 
Friends  and  fellow  companions  of  a  common  destiny,  the  arri- 
val at  the  crowded  station,  the  hurrying,  bustling  of  the  throng 
arriving  and  departing  by  the  cars,  the  admonitions  to  our  cab 
driver,  from  the  vigilant  police,  to  "  move  off"  for  others  to 
occupy  their  time  and  chance, — these,  and  a  thousand  other 
strange,  exciting,  bewildering  surroundings,  most  unceremo- 
niously and  as  quickly  broke  the  "  spell  that  bound  us 
together." 

Our  seats  at  the  table  on  shipboard  were  upon  the  port  side, 
near  the  head,  on  one  of  the  stationarj^gsettees,  and  "  ranged 
all  in  a  row."  Every  summons  to  meals  was  an  occasion  for 
the  exercise  of  no  little  courtesy  and  good  nature.  It  is  no 
small  effort  when  you  have  a  nice  plate  of  soup  and  a  rolling 
ship  to  guard  against,  to  move  from  the  narrow  space  between 
the  table  and  the  settee,  in  answer  to  the  suggestion  that  a 
lady  is  waiting  for  her  seat  in  the  centre,  or,  "  I'll  thank  you 
to  allow  me  to  pass."  It  requires  some  little  restraint  in  not 
"  thinking  out  loud,"  that  people  should  be  ready  when  the 
bell  rings !  "  How  false  and  yet  how  fair  "  the  words  are, 
"  Oh !  it  is  of  no  consequence,  no  trouble  at  all !"  So,  when 
we  came  to  the  dinner  table,  where  each  of  us  had  our  own  in- 
dependent chair  to  move  nearer  or  farther,  and  found  no  table 
racks,  and  no  necessity  for  holding  the  goblet  with  one  hand 
and  the  table  with  the  other,  we  were  still  more  forcibly  im- 
pressed that  our  "  life  upon  the  ocean  wave"  was  ended.  And 


44  A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 

when,  at  night,  we  surveyed  the  almost  unlimited  expanse  of 
the  mattress,  it  seemed  a  most  useless  waste  of  room  and  ma- 
terial. I  believe  it  is  generally  impossible  to  sleep  well  the 
first  night  ashore.  The  absence  of  the  gentle  lull-a-by  of  the 
sea,  suggestive  of  being  "  rocked  in  the  cradle  of  the  deep," 
the  sideless  couch  and  clear  space  around,  seem  so  strangely  at 
variance  with  desperate  clutchings  at  the  side  of  your  berth, 
and  the  expansion  of  limb  and  muscle  for  a  brace,  that  you 
cannot  at  first  convince  yourself  of  the  inutility  of  these  mat- 
ters ashore.    And  the  vigils  of  the  nigllt  were  faithfully  kept 

*  by  us,  in  the  futile  attempts  in  enticing  .a  visit  from  Morpheus. 
Daylight  on  Sunday  morning,  July  31st,  stopped  our  watch- 
ings.  ^  A  bath  at  our  leisure,  and  choice  of  position,  were  in 
strange  contrast  to  the  whirling,  wheeling  ablutions  at  sea. 
Many  a  weary  moment  and  bruised  elbow  could  bear  testi- 
mony to  the  almost  superhuman  effort  of  catching  the  ship  in 

^fcier  centre,  for  a  dip  into  the  wash  bowl.  And  then,  what  a 
scene  for  a  painter,  as  you  stand  before  the  swinging  mirror, 
trying  to  adjust  a  Byron  collar  or  a  neck  tie  !  In  fact,  the 
whole  toilet  of  a  morning  at  sea,  is  a  true  justification  of  what 
in  my  boyhood  days  was  the  ordinary  comment  on  a  fruitless 
effort,  that  "just  as  you  did,  you  didn't!"  and  then,  too, 
the  suppressed  laugh  of  your  half  aroused  room-mate — isn't  it 
annoying  ? 

After  breakfast,  under  the  guidance  of  a  kind  friend  from 
Belgium,  (who  has  since  died,  while  life's  brightest  prospects 
were  opening  before  him,)  we  attended  St.  James  Church,  in 
Piccadilly.  The  chiming  of  the  bells,  on  this  Sabbath  morning, 
had  solemnized  our  feelings  for  the  services  of  the  Sanctuary. 
With  emotions  of  gratitude  did  we  enter  those  holy  courts, 
anxiously  desirous,  by  our  presence  at  least,  to  express 
our  sincere,  fervent  thanksgiving  to  Almighty  God,  for  His 
unspeakable  mercy  in  conducting  us  safely  through  the  perils 
of  the  mighty  deep.  The  Church  was  simple  in  its  construc- 
tion.   The  sermon  and  services  were  acceptable,  and  to  us 


TRUE  COURTESY. 


45 


impressive.  In  all  the  English  Churches,  strangers  are 
assisted  to  seats  by  "  pew-openers,"  persons  especially  ap- 
pointed to  that  service.  It  is  a  common  rule  that  no  stranger 
is  to  enter  any  pew  unless  shown  to  it,  until  after  a 
certain  portion  of  the  service  has  been  performed.  The 
ordinary  courtesy  which,  in  this  country,  is  so  invariably  ex- 
tended to  females,  is  not  in  any  manner  as  common  in  England. 
"  First  come,  first  served,"  is  the  almost  invariable  rule  of 
precedence.  It  was  quite  an  outrage  to  the  feelings  of  my 
lady  friends,  at  different  times,  to  be  allowed  to  stand,  while 
the  male  members  of  the  religious  or  secular  congregations 
were  most  comfortably  seated.  I  am  not.  prepared  to  say  that 
the  English  rule  is  not  correct.  If  I,  by  an  extra  effort,  or  by 
personal  sacrifice,  am  earlier  at  any  assemblage,  where  a 
crowd  may  naturally  be  anticipated,  and  the  occasion  one  of 
special  interest  or  importance  to  jne,  w^hy  should  I  be  incom- 
moded or  perhaps  compelled  to  forego  the  anticipated  pleasure 
or  profit,  because  some  other  person,  from  thoughtlessness  or 
indifference,  has  allowed  the  opportunity  for  comfort  or  pleasure 
to  pass  ?  Surely,  no  true  lady  would  ever  presume  upon  the 
gallantry  due  to  her  sex,  as  to  demand  either  by  look,  word  or  ^. 
action;,  this  homage,  unless  sustained  by  the  consciousness  that 
the  appeal  was  not  owing  to  her  carelessness  or  purpose,  but 
froni  unavoidable  circumstances  of  difficulty  or  delay.  And 
the  audiences  abroad,  I  might  add,  are  more  refined  and  cour- 
teous than  those  where  young  America's  whistling,  hooting, 
stamping  and  whispering  have  interfered  with  many  an 
evening's  luxury  of  music,  eloquence  or  intellectual  entertain- 
ment. 

•  My  last  was  literally  a  "  Ramble,"  and  if  suspicions  are 
entertained  of  an  aberration  of  mind,  I  will  cheerfully  com- 
pr^ipiise,  and  call  it  one  of  thoughts.  To  stray  away  from  the 
sacred  associations  of  St.  James  Church,  Piccadilly,  London, 
and  find  yourself  in  a  concert  or  lecture  room  of  a  more 
familiar  audience,  is  most  assuredly  rambling.     My  apology 


46 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


for  so  doing  is  the  vivid  recollection  of  annoyance ;  and  my 
return  to  London  will  be  as  precipitate  as  my  departure,  with 
this  simple  appeal  to  that  sense  of  propriety  for  the  pleasure  of 
others,  which  should  be  inculcated  at  the  fireside  of  every 
family  conversant  with  the  ordinary  courtesies  of  life.  The 
formalities  of  an  English  Church  service  are  striking  to  an 
American.  There,  the  participation  with  the  Rector,  by  the 
Deacon  or  Clerk,  in  reading ;  the  attendance  of  the  Sexton 
upon  the  Rector ;  the  many  prayers  for  Her  Majesty,  His 
Royal  Highness,  the  Prince  of  Wales,  the  Royal  Family,  the 
Nobility,  &c.,  are  all  in  strong  contrast  with  the  simplicity  of 
the  similar  services  at  home,  except  in  those  churches  where 
the  corruptions  of  the  Romish  Church,  are,  with  serpent-like 
wiliness  and  stealthiness,  undermining  the  evangelical  charac- 
teristics of  the  protestant  faith.  The  mental  ability  of  the 
clergy  of  the  Church  of  England  is  by  no  means  of  as  high 
a  standard,  as  that  of  the  dissenting  denominations,  generally 
speaking.  The  reason  is  most  readily  explained,  if  perchance 
an  English  newspaper  is  by  your  side,  in  which  you  find 
among  the  advertisements,  "  church  living  "  for  sale,  worth  so 
many  pounds  sterling,  per  year.  And  the  fact  of  the  value  of 
primogeniture  as  regards  property,  rank,  and  privilege ;  the 
choice  of  the  ministry,  army  or  navy  being  the  only  perqui- 
sites, by  purchase,  available  to  the  younger  male  branches  of 
the  nobility.  There  has  been  much  change  for  the  better  since 
the  days  of  the  fox-hunting  clergy,  but  there  is  still  room  for 
reformation  and  improvement.  An  infusion  of  more  spirit; 
uality  and  less  considerations  of  temporal  prosperity,  would 
soon  elevate  the  rtfecessary  qualifications  for  administration  of 
the  services  of  the  established  Church.  The  almost  incredibly 
popularity  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Spurgeon,  which  concentrates  the 
untiring  attendance  and  attention  of  congregations  counted  by 
thousands,  is  simply  owing^  to  the  freshness  of  intellect,  HISl- 
cerity  of  manner,  evangelical  element  of  faith,  which  charac- 
terizes his  preaching  and  purpose.    Here  at  home,  beside  a 


REFORMATIONS. 


47 


Beecher,  his  name  would  soon  lose  its  talismanic  influence.  The 
preaching  of  Dr.  Cummings,  of  the  Scotch  Church,  or  the 
Rev.  Newman  Hall,  of  a  partially  dissenting  Church,  would 
not  stand  forth  in  such  bold  relief  beside  a  Tyng  and  an  in- 
numerable host  of  others,  highly  talented  and  spiritually  gifted 
clergymen,  as  it  does'  there  amid  the  almost  "  waste  places  of 
Zion."  One  of  the  reformations  first  to  be  demanded  by  Eng- 
land's growing  intellectual  greatness,  must  be,  in  my  humble 
opinion,  the  separation  of  Church  and  State  ;  the  annihila- 
tion of  the  custom  (of  the  past  unenlightened  ages)  of  buying 
and  selling  her  clergy's  stipends  and  ordinations  ;  the  purchasing 
of  commissions  in  her  army  and  navy  for  the  younger  sons  of 
the  aristocracy,  too  proud  to  work,  and  unfit  for  the  demands 
of  scientific  progress,  not  from  the  lack  of  ability,  but  from 
habits  of  education  and  estimation  of  the  dignity  of  labor; 
these,  and  others,  no  less  prominent,  are  problems  of  which  the 
educational  progress  of  England's  masses  are  demanding  the 
solution.  Happy  indeed  if  their  pr^)sition  is  frankly,  cheer- 
fully met,  and  answered :  fearful  and  desperate  the  struggle 
if  refused.  I  recall  to  mind,  during  the  Crimean  war,  the 
presence  in  the  Opera  House  at  Malta,  of  a  large  number  of 
these  young  men  of  nineteen  to  twenty-one  and  two  years  of 
age,  in  undress  uniform,  who  were  stationed  at  that  post,  learn- 
ing the  art  and  mysteries  of  war.  Equally  impressed  is  my 
memory  with  the  repulsive  shrug  and  expression,  which  an- 
sv/ered  my  inquiry  of  "  who  and  what  they  were  ?"  as  given 
me  by  a  grey-haired,  middle-aged  sergeant,  of  many  a  cam- 
paign's momentous  duties.  It  is  not  the  fault  of  the  incum- 
bents of  these  commissions,  but  that  of  a  system  whose  only 
claim  to  respect  is  its  antiquity,  and  whose  greatest  benefit 
would  be,  in  its  immediate  abolishment.  But  another  ramble, 
most  surely.  This  time,  it  is,  however,  within  Victoria's  realms, 
and  though  it  was  from  St.  James  Church  again  to  the  Opera 
House  at  Malta,  still  its  straws  may  express  the  impression  of 
a  foreigner,  spending  a  brief  hour  on  Britain's  so^^  and  in 


m 


48 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROrE. 


contact  with  perhaps  a  bird's-eye  view  of  her  institutions. 
Church  is  over  !  and  as  the  service  has  been  rather  protracted, 

we  will,  dear  reader,  return  to  lunch  at  No.  — ,  Square, 

promising,  if  possible,  to  be  more  of  a  "  fixture  "  for  the  future. 
Breakfast  at  8i  A.  M.,  lunch  at  1  P.  M.,  dinner  at  6 1,  tea  8 1 
are  the  hours  of  meals  in  summer.  So  that  if  you  add  the 
difference  of  time  between  home  (?)  and[(||jondon,  four  and  a 
half  hours,  you  can  calculate  what  your  friends  may  reasonably 
be  doing,  while  you  are  so  soundly  participating  in  a  morning's 
nap  or  enjoying  an  evening's  pleasures.  As  our  intention, 
when  leaving  home,  was  to  remain  a  year  absent  and  locate 
most  probably  at  Dresden,  the  first  subject  which  demanded 
our  inquiry  was  the  most  practicable  way  of  reaching  that 
city.  A  search  for  information  at  the  various  steamboat  agen- 
cies, and  the  facility  for  the  absent  one  of  our  number  to  reach 
Hamburg,  decided  us  in  engaging  passages  upon  the  newest 
ship  of  the  line  between  London  and  Hamburg,  the  "  Moselle.'* 
Forgetting  the  wide  dij^Bence  between  the  passenger  steamers 
of  the  Old  World  and  the  New,  in  the  comfort  and  con- 
veniences of  travel,  I  had  fancied  to  myself  a  pleasure  jaunt 
as  one  would  find  in  the  "  Metropolis,"  "  Plymouth  Rock,"  or 
the  "  Connecticut."  The  assurance  that  the  "  Moselle "  was 
the  "  crack  boat "  hardly  prepared  my  family  for  the  disap- 
pointment they  experienced  on  the  next  Saturday.  The  Eng- 
lish ideas  of  comfort  are  very  limited,  in  the  opinions  of  those 
who  have  had  fair  opportunities  of  comparison.  They  par- 
take more  of  that  solid  (burthensome,  I  might  say)  characterestic 
which  so  readily  distinguishes  sturdy  "  John  Bull "  from  his 
more  vivacious  Brother  Jonathan.  In  their  dwellings,  ware- 
houses, carriages,  wagons,  drays. — in  everything,  whether  of 
habitation,  food,  clothing,  &c.,  the  impression  of  stability,  du- 
rability and  utility  is  promptly  in  the  mind.  The  men  are  stouter; 
women  more  robust  and  matured  in  form  ;  the  horses  are 
almost  elephants,  especially  those  used  for  draught ;  the  cattle, 
cows,  oxen  and  sheep  are  larger ;  everything  seems  to  have 


DINNER  TABLES.  49 

grown  to  maturity,  and  to  be  adapted  to  the  purposfPHrid  uses 
to  which  it  is  applied.  I  never  saw  any  where  such  immense 
"  rounds  of  beef,"  "  saddles  of  mutton,"  and  other  roasting 
pieces  of  meat,  as  you  ordinarily  find  upon  the  tables  of  the 
^  better  class  hotels  or  boarding  houses.  An  "  English  plum 
pudding "  awakens  the  most  vivid  impressions  of  a  terrific 
night-mare  ;  and  I  can  think  of  nothing  that  might  excite  its 
envy  for  size,  except  possibly  some  of  those  huge  foreign 
squashes,  that  made  our  better  native  American  "  crooked 
necks,"  obsolete. 


VIII. 


CANNOT  DESCRIBE  LONDON. 


Having  booked  ourselves  for  Hamburg,  on  the  next  Satur- 
day, the  intervening  time  afforded  an  opportunity  of  sight 
seeing.  It  is  ahuost  an  impossibiHty  ever  to  transport  a  friend, 
in  imagination,  to  the  scenes  you  would  have  him  idealize, 
without  some  previous  kno\^^ge  on  his  part  of  a  similarity 
with  your  representations.  IW;  now,  any  attempt  at  description 
of  a  particular  or  detailed  nature,  to  one  wholly  ignorant, 
would  be  ineffective.  It  would  furnish  an  opportunity  for  the 
exhibition  of  one's  powers  of  story-telling  or  of  elegant  letter 
writing.  Either  of  these  is  beyond  the  present  pretensions  of 
ability  or  inclination.  All  knowledge  is  acquired  by  observation 
or  study.  "  John  Murray's  hand  books,"  so  universally  known 
and  generally  consulted  and  quoted,  will  be  the  only  medium 
through  which  I  shall  acquire  information,  when  my  eyes  are 
insufficient  or  useless.  It  requires  no  talent  to  speak  of 
the  general  characteristics  of  London.  The  moment  you 
enter  the  streets,  you  are  in  contact  with  things  new  and  old. 
If  you  go  to  Pimlico  or  any  of  the  other  suburbs,  there  is  a 
uniformity  of  building  comprehending  very  generally  the  styles 
of  houses  and  churches  familiar  to  the  residents  of  many  of 
our  American  cities.  Returning  to  the  squares  or  other  parts 
of  the  city,  another  similarity  of  style,  material  and  arrange- 


humanity's  phases. 


51 


ment  is  again  arbitrarily  adopted.  The  houses  for  miles  are 
of  the  same  height,  same  front,  depth,  color  and  value.  They 
are  a  continued  series  of  blocks  of  buildings,  opened  for  the 
streets  and  united  again  beyond.  The  ever  abiding  coal 
smoke  atmosphere  of  the  city  produces  an  invariably  smoky 
shade  to  the  most  luxurious  palatial  mansion,  as  well  as  to  the 
humble  cot  of  the  laborer.  Leaving  the  squares  for  busi- 
ness parts  of  the  city,  you  meet  a  greater  variety  of  form  and 
structure,  adapted  to  the  different  occupatio^is  of  the  various 
trades  and  purposes,  of  coffee  houses,  reading-rooms,  agencies, 
offices,  &c.  Stability  invariably  appears  everywhere.  The 
crowd  in  the  streets,  whether  composed  of  the  burly  trades- 
man ;  fox-whiskered  exquisite  ;  muscular  porters  and  laborers, 
(with  the  almost  arbitrary  costume  of  a  small  black  cap,  jacket 
and  trowsers,  of  corderoy  velvet,  originally  white  or  brown  as 
fancy  prompts,)  the  poor  tattered,  bloated,  inebriate  ;  the  well- 
dressed,  well-fed  gentleman  of  the  banking  houses;  profes- 
sional men  in  black,  especially  those  of  the  clerical,  with  the 
inflexible  neck-tie  of  starch  and  whiteness ;  the  almost  "  sui- 
generis  "  race  of  omnibus  drivers  and  conductors  ;  cab  and 
hackney  coachmen ;  the  half-starved  rag-monger,  or  old  relic 
gatherer ;  the  Jew,  hat  and  old  clothes  pedlar ;  poor,  weak, 
debauched  relics  of  a  sex,  that  should  ever  be  the  embodiment 
of  loveliness,  purity  and  virtue  ;  children  famished  in  looks, 
haggard  and  wan  in  countenance,  seeming  the  very  off-scour- 
ings  of  humanity, — and  as  if  that  humanity  could  be  repre- 
sented without  a  claim  to  immortality, — poor  despised  outcasts, 
objects  of  God's  omnipresent  regard,  and  I  trust,  heirs  of  a 
never  ending,  blissful  eternity,  spurned  as  a  dog,  wretchedly 
poor  ; — these,  and  I  might  say  a  thousand  others,  compose  the 
motley  throng  of  London's  thoroughfares.  And  if  perchance 
you  would  leave  the  crowded  walk,  your  peril  is  increased  in 
crossing  between  the  thronging  mass  of  vehicles  that  <!^ncen- 
trate,  as  it  were,  at  Temple  Bar,  between  the  Strand  and 
Fleet  Street.    It  is  of  hourly  occurrence  that  in  this  focus  of 


52 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


motion,  the  streets  are  as  densely  blocked  as  though  arranged 
whli  mechanical  skill.  Two  long,  unbroken  lines  of  the  car- 
riages of  the  nobility,  with  liveried  attendants  ;  countless 
numbers  of  omnibuses,  cabs,  wagons  of  incredible  size  and 
weight,  drawn  by  horses  comparable  with  but  little  of  fancy  to 
elephants ;  dog  carts,  market  vehicles,  donkey  carts,  porters' 
barro\||, — all  in  one  moving  throng,  passing  in  one  direction, 
while  a  corresponding  line  passes  in  the  other,  forbid  the  pos- 
sibility of,  crossing  these  crowded  thoroughfares  except  as  the 
order  of  the  policeman  stops,  in  its  progress,  this  moving  mass, 
to  allow  the  accumulated  numbers  of  pedestrians  to  exchange 
sides.  These  are  the  poorly  told  scenes  of  daylight.  And  at 
night,  as  you  traverse  these  same  streets,  relieved  of  their  living 
crowds,  the  contrast  is  rendered  more  distinct  by  the  brilliant 
glare  of  the  gas  lights,  streaming  through  the  windows  of  the 
innumerable  gin  shops  jnto  the  thick  murky  atmosphere  with- 
out. Amid  the  undiminished  current  of  guests  and  customers 
of  these  living,  cursing  depots  of  shame,  woman,  in  the  first 
blush  of  girldliood's  innocence — in  contact  with  sin  in  the  de- 
veloped maturity  of  older  years — in  the  broken,  dejected, 
ruined,  haggish  forms  of  a  life  of  iniquity — the  wrecked  casket, 
that  once  contained  the  highest,  purest  of  earth's  jewels — wo- 
man adds  to  the  throng,  and  with  language  and  manner  makes 
the  better  nature  of  manhood  recoil  at  the  spectacle.  And 
yet  this  depth  of  degradation  has  been  reached  not  from  a 
calm,  deliberative  choice,  and  insensibility  of  its  horror,  but 
from  a  stern,  harsh,  despotic  necessity,  that  raises  a  fervent 
prayer  to  God  for  mercy  and  salvation. 

Our  sight-seeing  commenced  with  a  visit  to  Westminster 
Abbey.  Before  proceeding  with  an  examination  of  this  time 
honored  structure,  I  must  recall  the  remark  of  the  similarity 
of  the  church  architecture  with  our  own.  It  is  different  and 
peculife  in  its  style  and  detail.  It  seems  to  be  peculiarly  Eng- 
lish, differing  from  that  of  the  Continent  as  well  as  that  of  the 
United  States.    It  has  been  called,  with  propriety,  "  English 


"WESTMINSTER  ABBEY. 


53 


Gothic," — pleasing  most  generally,  and  well  adapted  to  its 
purposes.  The  Abbey  and  St.  Paul's  Cathedral  are  considered 
the  pioneers  of  its  introduction.  The  former,  as  memory  re- 
calls the  form  generally,  was  built  in  that  of  the  Latin  cross. 
The  additions  upon  the  sides  and  one  end,  however,  render  it 
difficult  to  trace  its  original  design.  The  western  front  is 
ornamented  with  two  large  square  towers  two  hundred  and 
twenty-five  feet  in  height,  with  four  pointed  spires  on  each, 
showing  a  gabled  centre  front,  with  a  large  pointed  arch  win- 
dow ;  buttresses  on  each  side  (judging  from  those  upon  the 
south)  extending  around  the  nave  and  transepts  ;  two  rows  of 
short  gothic  windows  also  on  each  side,  betvreen  the  buttresses. 
Its  length  from  east  to  west,  not  including  the  chapel  of 
Henry  VII,  is  four  hundred  and  sixteen  feet ;  width  of  tran- 
sept, two  hundred  and  three  feet,  and  of  the  nave  thirty-nine 
feet ;  height  of  the  nave,  one  hundred  and  two  feet.  Its  ex- 
terior is  imposing,  and  suggestive  of  its  ei-ectioo  and  present 
sepulchral  use.  In  entering  on  the  south  side,  between  the 
Chapter  House  (a  fine  large  octagonal  building  with  buttresses) 
and  the  Abbey,  you  find  yourself  in  the  southeast  corner  of  the 
southern  transept.  Your  guide  (either  man  or  book)  informs  you 
that  "  this  is  the  poet's  corner."  Here  are  monumental  tablets, 
statues,  bas  reliefs  and  a  variety  of  appropriate  and  character- 
istic designs,  erected  to  perpetuate  the  name  and  peculiarities 
of  talented  persons,  some  of  whom  are  buried  beneath. 
Geoffrey  Chaucer,  the  "father  of  English  poetry,"  Edmund 
Spencer,  William  Shakespeare,  Michael  Drayton,  Ben  John- 
son, Butler,  Cowley,  Bryden,  Addison,  Thomson,  and  a  long 
list  of  other  and  as  distinguished  names,  are  recorded.  "While 
you  are  engaged  in  examining  these  tributes  to  the  honored 
dead,  the  guide  is  very  quietly  forming  a  party  of  many  others 
to  examine,  with  you,  the  other  parts  of  this  venerable  and 
deeply  interesting  link  between  the  past  and  present.  In  con- 
sequence of  the  great  number  of  visitors^jj^ertain  number  of 
attendants  are  in  waiting  from  1 1  A.  ^dj^v  3  P.  M.,  to  ex- 
5* 


54 


A  SUiAIMER's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


plain  the  various  parts  of  the  Abbey  and  their  interesting 
contents.  The  fee  for  each  person  is  sixpence,  (twelve  cents,) 
and  a  large  revenue  must  result  from  the  constant  flow  of 
strangers. 

"  Murray's  hand  book  of  modern  London  "  being  upon  my 
desk,  betrayed  me  unconsciously  into  a  more  minute  descrip- 
tion of  the  entrance  to  Westminster  Abbey  than  I  intended.  I 
presume  every  traveller  who  goes  abroad  thinks  himself  com- 
petent to  write  a  "  history  of  his  travels and  hence  almost 
every  newspaper  has  its  "  foreign  correspondent."  The  pub- 
lic undoubtedly  would  compromise  for  a  stereotyped  publica- 
tion, annually,  of  some  of  the  innumerable  guide  books,  and  be 
relieved  of  the  serious  effort  of  a  recapitulation  by  so  many  a 
fancied  genius  of  letter  writing  pretensions.  The  buildings, 
streets,  localities,  and  associations,  one  meets  with  abroad,  are 
of  the  same  height,  length,  breadth,  depth,  bounds  and  dura- 
tion, as  they  have  been  for  centuries  ;  and  a  story-teller  is  the 
one,  who,  in  giving  these  hackneyed  descriptions,  does  not 
begin  and  end  every  period  with  quotation  marks.  The  peo- 
ple alone  change.  The  wearers  of  a  royal  diadem  and  the 
rag  pickers  are  not  the  standard  unchanging  facts  of  history. 
The  masses  of  humanity  in  their  varied  forms  of  age,  sex, 
rank,  condition,  and  destiny,  are  the  only  originals  for  the 
photographic  pen  of  the  traveller  of  to-day.  I  shall  plead 
freedom  from  the  charge  of  this  presumption  and  egotism,  so 
generally  the  result  of  a  foreign  travel.  If  you  ask  me  why 
these  "  Wanderings  "  are  in  print,  I  refer  you  not  only  to  the 
acknowledged  absence  of  any  pretensjyons,  but  more  particu- 
larly to  the  unwillingness  to  loose  the  impressions  and  associa- 
tions of  the  sights  and  scenes  of  travel. 

Shall  we  go  through  the  Abbey  ?  There  are  nine  or  ten 
chapels,  containing  statues  and  effigies,  in  marble  and  bro'.ize, 
of  the  Kings  and  Queens,  and  others,  of  the  nobility  of  Eng- 
land. And  a  we^informed  student  of  English  history  may 
read  again  its  p^Hpand  its  story,  in  these  silent  representatives 


KINGS  AND  CHILDREN. 


55 


of  the  living  actors.  In  the  chapel  of  Henry  VII,  among  its 
other  highly  interesting  and  ornamental  objects  of  attraction, 
are  the  chairs  used  at  the  coronation  of  the  past  and  present 
sovereigns  of  England.  The  old  "  scone  stone,"  of  a  reddish 
grey  sandstone,  (nearly  two  feet  long  and  one  in  depth  and 
width)  upon  which  the  Scottish  Kings  were  crowned,  is  here. 
And  sad  are  the  memories  of  the  past,  to  see  thus  far  from  its 
origin  and  home  this  solid  and  enduring  relic  of  Scotland's 
nationality.  Strangely  contrasting  with  the  gilded  velvet 
canopy  of  cost  and  luxury,  that  is  now  the  insignia  of  royalty 
in  Church  and  Palace,  it  is  an  appropriate  emblem  of  the  no- 
ble, heroic  race  of  "  auld  lang  syne,"  the  unwilling  subjects 
of  an  irresistible  destiny.  Within  the  consecrated  walls  of 
the  Abbey,  are  also  the  effigies  of  mitred  Bishops,  Priests  and 
other  dignitaries  of  the  religious  history  of  the  past :  and  its 
cumbrous  doors  have  recently  opened  to  receive  in'  honor  the 
remains  of  England's  greatest  hero  of  mechanical  genius  and 
renown.  A  walk  through  arched  passage  of  the  "  Horse 
Guards,"  (a  large  hewn  stone  building,  built  in  1730,  and  so 
called  from  its  being  the  post  of"  duty  of  those  of  the  Queen's 
troops  attached  to  her  personal  service,)  separating  Whitehall 
from  St.  James  Park  ;  across  the  Park,  stopping  to  see  the 
simple  luxury  of  fresh  milk,  warm  from  the  cow — drawn  in 
little  cups  from  Which  the  nurses  literally  regaled  the  favored 
children  of  the  affluent ;  admiring  the  beautiful  illustration  of 
humility  and  contentment,  in  the  gentle  animal's  quiet  masti- 
cation of  her  food,  conscious,  it  seemed,  of  imparting  nouvish- 
ment  and  strength  to  the  feeble  prototype  of  manhood  ;  passing 
merrisome  childhood's  happy  sports,  sighing  for  the  depriva- 
tion of  them  to  those  at  home ;  ascending  the  stairs  built  by 
William  IV,  to  connect  the  Park  and  Carlton  Palace;  gazing 
up  to  the  bronze  statue  of  the  Duke  of  York,  surmounting  a 
column  of  light  red  granite  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in 
height ;  the  attention  arrested  by  the  "  Marlborough  House," 
the  city  residence  of  the  late  Queen  Dowager ;  crossing  Pall 


56 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


Mall ;  by  St.  James  Square  to*  Piccadilly ;  thence  tlirough 

*'  Regent  Street  "  (the  Broadway  of  London)  to  Square; — 

this  Ramble  gave  us  an  appetite  which  was  of  a  threatening 
nature  to  the  symmetry  and  substantial  arrangements  of  our 
landlady's  table.  The  appetite  yielded  its  claims  of  insatiety, 
as  the  "  roast  beef  of  old  England  "  challenged  its  powers  of 
endurance.  At  the  table  of  our  hostess  we  made  the  very  agree- 
able acquaintance  of  a  gentleman,  Minister  from  Venezuela  to 
the  "  Court  of  the  Tuilleries."  He  had  studied  most  thoroughly 
the  various  forms  of  national  government,  as  his  native  country 
was  then  emerging  into  a  Republic.  He  had  been  sometime 
a  resident  in  the  United  States,  and  was  the  intimate  friend 
and  companion  of  General  Paez.  His  inquiries  into  the  de- 
tailed workings  of  our  Republican  institutions,  the  relative 
position  of  the  individual  States  with  the  united  Confederacy 
of  all ;  the  sovereignty  of  the  citizen,  State  and  Union  ;  the 
responsibilities  and  characteristics  of  the  Executive,  Legisla- 
tive and  Judicial  Departments  otf  Government ;  the  relations 
of  our  territorial  possessions ;  and  in  fact,  every  point  of 
observation  of  our  country  and  its  institutions,  seemed  to  have 
passed  under  his  appreciative  and  suggestive  review.  I  found 
his  apprehension  for  the  permanency  and  strength  of  our  Re- 
public was  that  of  many  other  intelligent  minds.  Beyond 
question,  until  the  conflict  between  capital  and  labor  bursts 
forth, — when  our  cities  are  crowded  with  an  ignorant,  famish- 
ing population  ;  our  vast  plains  and  prairies  are  teeming  with 
an  overburdened  mass  of  humanity — representatives  of  every 
class  of  society,  nationality  and  religion — drawn  together  by 
no  ties  of  patriotic  loyalty — commingled  in  one  heterogeneous 
strife  for  supremacy  or  existence  ;  when  hunger,  knowing  no 
law  but  that  of  necessity,  shall  demand  its  daily  bread  ;  when 
accumulated  capital  responds  to  no  remunerative  appeal  from 
the  distressed  artizans,  seeing  no  alleviating  remedy  for  the 
wants  and  woes  of  wife  and  children, — then  the  test  is  to  be 
applied.    And  then  the  theory  of  self  government,  and  the 


# 


OUR  country's  future. 


57 


strength  and  stability  of  law  and  order,  founded  alone  upon 
the  moral  obligations  of  each  and  all  to  the  laws  of  God  and 
man,  is  to  be  tested.  And  this  experiment  of  a  pure  Republi- 
can Government  is  to  stand  forth  proudl^indicating  the  fame, 
philosophy  and  wisdom  of  its  foundersj|Kiall  as  the  "  baseless- 
fabric  of  a  vision,"  prostrating  in  its  ruins  the  highest  hopes 
of  humanity,  and  obliterating  the  anathemas  and  deep  Availed 
curses  against  oppression  and  despotism.  Were  we  to  meet 
now,  when  the  vile  hand  of  treachery  and  base  ingratitude  is 
stretched  forth  to  grasp,  in  its  blackened  hold,  "  the  proud  banner 
of  freedom  to  trample  and  spurn  the  "  bright  emblem  "  of 
the  world's  hopes  to  the  dust ;  when  deep,  dark  and  damning 
heresy  and  sedition  is  covering  our  fair  land  with  the  pall  of 
mourning,  and  the  cry  of  desolation  and  anguish  comes  to  us  "in 
every  breeze  of  the  South,  what  v/ould  our  meeting  be?  One 
of  despair?  God  forbid  it.  But  one  of  brighter  hope  and 
promise,  as  the  black  curse  and  cause  of  our  sorroAV  is,  in 
Heaven's  high  destiny,  to  be  the  brightest  spot  in  the  field  of  our 
nation's  galaxy  !  Not  a  star  or  stripe  less  in  our  flag,  but  its  colors 
more  bright  and  radiant,  as  no  dark  stain  is  beneath  them.  I 
had  with  me  a  copy  of  the  Constitution  of  the  United  States, 
and  one  of  Rhode  Island ;  the  latter  I  gave  him.  It  was  a  source 
of  honest  pride  to  point  him  to  that  provision  for  soul  liberty, 
embodied  in  our  State's  written  compact.  And  fortunate  in- 
deed was  I,  in  the  fact  of  his  ignorance  alone  not  rebuking  my 
proud  boasting.  If  he  had  asked  what  monumental  pile  was 
reared  to  commemorate  the  birth,  life  and  principles  of  the 
founder  of  that  religious  freedom, — the  pilgrim  by  whom  our 
shores  were  consecrated  in  praise  and  prayer  to  God,  for  his 
deliverance  from  persecution  and  death,  and  for  His  care  and 
guidance  in  his  conceptions  and  intentions,  and  from  which 
one  of  our  fairest  cities  bears  testimony  of  the  good  Providence 
of  the  Almighty,  in  its  earliest  and  latest  prosperity, — if  the 
place,  character  and  costliness  of  such  a  memorial  was  asked 
for,  what  would  I  have  answered  ? 


IX. 


PAXIL  pry's  sagacity. 

Tuesday,  July  2d,  was  a  specimen  of  the  uncertainties  of 
an  English  climate.  "  Fickle  as  the  wind,"  is  a  proverb  that 
accompanied  Noah's  disembarkation  from  the  ark.  Substitute 
weather  for  ivind  and  every  son  of  John  Bull  will  acknowl- 
edge its  propriety.  The  morning's  sun  was  clear  and  unob- 
scured.  At  breakfast,  passing  umbrellas  assured  us  that  the 
foggy  outside  atmosphere  was  being  concentrated  into  globules 
of  moisture.  The  man  who  ventures  from  his  door  without 
an  umbrella  is  the  exception,  and  "  Paul  Pry  "  would  have 
forfeited  his  nationality,  if  he  had  not  always  been  accompa- 
nied, in  his  researches  after  knowledge,  by  that  appendage.  But 
rain,  or  no  rain,  London  was  to  be  seen.  Arrayed  in  dusters, 
sandals  and  other  protectives,  we  ventured  forth  and  soon  were 
oppressively  warm  in  the  sunlight.  Retracing  our  steps  of 
yesterday  we  came  to  the  Houses  of  Parliament,  or  "  New 
Palace  of  Westminster,"  on  the  left  of  the  river  and  between 
it  and  the  Abbey.  This  most  beautiful  specimen  of  Gothic 
Architecture,  (the  largest  most  probably  in  Europe,)  tempts  a 
reference  to  "  John  Murray  "  again.  But  forbearance  will  be 
the  virtue  best  appreciated  by  my  readers,  and  with  a  few  fig- 
ures only,  I  shall  leave  the  structure,  sincerely  hoping  it  may 
be  the  good  fortune  of  all  to  admire  its  grand  and  imposing 


A  SATIATED  CURIOSITY. 


59 


exterior.    The  old  or  former  Palace  was  burnt  October  16th, 
1834.    The  first  stone  of  the  new  was  laid  April  27th,  1840. 
It  covers  eight  acres  of  ground,  has  one  hundred  stairways, 
eleven  hundred  apartments  and  two  miles  of  corridors ;  the 
river  front  is  nine  hundred  feet  in  length ;  the  royal  entrance 
tower  is  seventy-fiye  feet  square,  three  hundred  and  forty  feet 
in  height,  with  an  archway  sixty-five  feet  high  ;  the  clock 
tower  is  forty  feet  square,  three  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in 
height,  and  the  clock  dials  thirty  feet  in  diameter ;  there  are 
between  four  and  five  hundred  statues  upon  the  building. 
The  Peers'  Chamber  is  ninety-seven  feet  long,  forty-five  wide, 
the  same  in  height,  and  is  lighted  by  gas  through  the  ceiling. 
The  House  of  Commons  is  sixty-two  feet  long,  forty-five  feet 
wide,  the  same  height,  and  contains  sittings  for  the  four  hun- 
dred and  ninety-eight  members  from  England  and  Wales,  one 
hundred  and  five  from  Ireland  and  fifty-three  from  Scotland. 
To  the  House  of  Peers,  a  visit  is  the  more  interesting  to  a 
stranger,  although  the  members  of  the  House  of  Commons, 
elected  by  a  pretension  to  a  popular  vote,  should  be,  to  an 
American,  objects  of  greater  sympathy  and  interest,  than  those 
who  are  entitled  by  the  antiquated  laws  of  primogeniture  and 
accidental  birth,  to  a  seat  among  the  nobility  and  aristocracy ; 
not  of  mind  or  intrinsic  worth,  but  of  England's  singularly 
cherished  tenacity  of  titles  and  honors.    Spending  but  a  short 
time  in  the  rich  halls  and  beautiful  apartments  of  the  edifice,  at 
this  our  first  visit,  we  passed  around  it  to  the  landing  stage,  for  a 
steamer  down  the  river  from  Westminster  bridge.    And  our 
curiosity  to  see  again  the  masses  was  more  than  satisfied,  in 
contact  with  one  of  the  most  crowded  throngs  I  had  yet  seen. 
My  companions  were  excessively  nervous  at  the  indiscriminate 
pushing  and  crowding  to  get  on  or  off"  the  steamer.  A  plunge 
bath  was  nol^p  any  means  among  the  improbabilities,  and 
perhaps  the  least  evil  to  be  anticipated.    To  those  to  whom 
this  was  an  hourly  incident,  our  fears  and  anxieties  furnished 
the  theme  of  an  occasional  jest,  and  undoubtedly  suggested  a 


GO 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


little  extra  pressure.  But  the  gentle  nature  and  sex  of  my 
family  was  most  violently  assailed,  not  by  insult  or  outrage, 
but  in  gratifying  my  excessive  utilitarian  wish  for  them  to  see 
London  as  if  is.  Our  landing  near  the  "  Thames  Tunnel," 
the  object  of  our  excursion,  afforded  time  and  space  for  a  full 
breath,  and  sincere  congratulations  of  relief  and  safety.  I 
never  requested  or  attempted  a  repetition  of  that  experiment. 
"  Thames  Tunnel "  is  a  most  wonderful  excavation,  extending 
directly  across  and  under  the  river  from  "  Wapping,"  on  the 
left  bank,  to  "  Rotherhithe  "  on  the  right  towards  the  sea.  It 
is  twelve  hundred  feet  in  length,  and  consists  of  two  arched 
passage  ways,  in  the  form  of  a  horse  shoe.  The  entrance  at 
either  end  is  by  a  descent  of  circular  stairs  of  one  hundred 
steps  each.  The  effect  upon  reaching  the  bottom  and  looking 
through  the  tunnel  is  very  picturesque.  The  spaces  between 
the  arched  columns  in  the  centre  are  occupied  by  stalls  for  the 
sale  of  a  great  variety  of  fancy  articles,  miniature  museums, 
restaurants,  &c.;  and  the  brilliant  gas  lights,  sounds  of  the 
piano  and  reverberating  voices  of  the  passengers,  buyers  and 
sellers,  when  there  is  a  large  concourse  of  visitors,  gives  a 
good  idea  of  fairy  land  and  life.  There  is  only  one  passage 
way  open  to  the  public,  that  upon  the  right  as  you  enter  from 
Wapping  Station.  It  is  remarkably  tight  in  its  freeness  from 
water  dripj)ing  or  leaking  above.  The  door  way  is  of  flag 
stone  and  the  interior  is  of  a  light,  cheerful  straw-colored  tint, 
either  of  the  stone  or  wash.  The  air  is  of  course  damp  and 
slightly  oppressive,  and  recalled  the  veritable  dog  days  of  July, 
at  home.  It  was  intended  for  a  relief  to  the  incessantly 
crowded  thoroughfares  and  bridges,  in  affording  transit  for 
carriages  and  foot  passengers  ;  but  it  is  frequented  more  as  a 
matter  of  curiosity  by  strangers,  and  the  didfl||ty  and  enor- 
mous expense  attendant  upon  securing  sufn^ent  area  for  a 
suitable  entrance  for  vehicles,  has  made  its  construction  a 
monument  of  the  skill,  enterprise  and  energy  of  its  architect. 
Sir  J.  K.  Brunei,  rather  than  a  source  of  profitable  revenue  to 


ST.  Paul's. 


61 


its  corporators.    The  cost  was  over  three  millions  of  dollarPj 
and  its  receipts  are  nearly  twenty-five  thousand  dollars,  solely 
from  visitors.    It  was  commenced  March  2d,  1825,  closed  for 
seven  years  by  inundation,  from  August  12th,  1828,  and 
opened  to  the  public  March  25th,  1843,  eighteen  years  after  its 
commencement.    It  wa5  built  mostly  by  private  shareholders, 
government  having  loaned  them  about  one-third  of  the  cost.  A 
carriage  conveyed  us  from  the  Tunnel  to  St.  Paul's  Cathedral. 
And  here  again  John  Murray's  compilation  of  facts  and  fig- 
ures are  a  strong  temptation  for  a  little  honest  pilfering.  With 
my  promise  to  avoid  this,  I  shall  simply  state  that  this  noble 
structure,  one  of  the  largest  of  any  in  England  or  upon  the 
Continent,  is  built  in  the  form  of  the  Latin  Cross,  with  a  base, 
and  after  the  design  of  Sir  Christopher  Wren ;  commenced 
June  21st,  1675,  finished  in  thirty-five  years,  at  a  cost  of 
£747,954,  (or  equal  to  $3,740,000,)  and  paid  for  by  taxing 
the  coal  consumed  in  the  city.    Its  length  is  five  hundred  feet, 
width  one  hundred  feet,  and  from  the  ground  to  the  top  of  the 
cross  four  hundred  and  four  feet.    The  area  covered  by  the 
Cathedral  is  nearly  two  and  a  half  acres  of  ground.    Its  mas- 
sive proportions  render  it  a  fit  mausoleum  for  the  remains  of 
England's  most  honored  sons.     Here  the  statutes  of  John 
Howard,  Dr.  Johnson,  Sir  Josliua  Reynolds,  Bishop  Heber, 
Sir  Astley  Cooper,  Lord  Nelson  and  similar  memorials  to  a 
host  of  others,  equally  as  renowned  in  philanthropy,  literature, 
the  fine  arts,  religion,  medicine,  gallant  bravery,  and  the  nobler 
qualities  of  miiid,  life,  and  character,  serve  to  perpetuate  the 
virtues  and  accomplishments  of  the  honored  dead,  and  stimu- 
late the  living  to  the  emulation  of  that  which  can  adorn,  and 
dignify  humaTiity.    In  the  crypt,  is  a  porphyry  sarcophagus 
containing  the  remains  of  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  and  one  of 
black  and  white  marble,  those  of  Lord  Nelson:    The  visitor 
treads  lightly  as  he  observes  the  flat  stones  of  the  floor  are  the 
tablets  above  the  graves  of  those,  whose  more  elaborate  me- 
morials are  in  the  church  above.    The  American  betrays  his 


62 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


nationality  and  expresses  his  respect  as  he  passes  around  tRat 
upon  which  the  name  of  "  Benjamin  West "  is  inscribed.  The 
whispering  gallery,  in  the  interior  of  the  dome,  is  an  object  of 
curiosity  and  interest,  as  the  slightest  whisper  is  rapidly  and 
distinctly  heard  around  a  circuit  of  one  hundred  feet  diameter, 
so  perfect  is  the  construction  and  proportion  of  this  part  of 
the  edifice.  The  ascent  to  the  cross,  or  ball  below  it,  is  very 
tedious  but  not  difficult.  And  if  an  unusually  clear  atmos- 
phere exists,  the  effort  of  reaching  them  is  more  than  counter- 
balanced in  the  view  of  the  city  and  its  far  reaching  suburbs. 
If^  however,  the  dim,  murky,  smoky  cloud  is  over  the  city,  you 
have  the  labor  for  your  pains  literally,  and  no  equivalent  satis- 
faction. 

The  day's  labor  was  terminated  with  a  remarkable  degree 
of  unanimity,  as  we  seated  ourselves  at  the  dinner  table  of 

Miss  .    A  pleasant  exhalation  of  a  good  "  Havana" 

mo.-t  essentially  contributed  to  obliterate  the  impressions  of 
fatigue,  which  seems  to  be  the  necessary  attendant  of  work  or 
play.  The  distance  one  passes  over,  or  the  time  appropriated, 
is  almost  incredible,  where  the  attention  is  so  constantly 
absorbed  and  interested  as  in  sight-seeing  ;  and  it  is  only 
when  we  stop,  that  the  consciousness  of  mental  and  physical 
effort  betrays  itself  in  many  a  long  drawn  sigh  or  expressive 
yawn.  This  consciousness  is  more  keenly  felt  abroad,  when 
you  are  dependent  upon  the  very  few  comforts  of  hotel  life. 
Hotel  keeping  out  of  this  country  is  a  problem  not  yet  solved. 
The  necessary  adjuncts  of  an  American  hotel,  would  be  con- 
sidered superfluous  extravagancies  in  England.  There  you 
find  no  reading,  smoking,  or  retiring  rooms  for  gentlemen  with- 
out ladies.  Upon  the  first  floor  is  the  coffee  room,  where  you 
can  get  a  cup  of  coffee,  or  genuine  English  breakfast  tea, 
crumpets,  rolls,  cutlets  of  mutton,  eggs,  &c.,  for  breakfast,  fi'om 
off  a  small  table  solitary  and  alone.  A  morning  paper  may  be 
in  the  hands  of  your  melancholy  neighbor  opposite,  to  whom 
however  you  must  not  look  or  speak.    After  breakfast  you  are 


EXTREMELY  DISCONSOLATE. 


C3 


expected  to  quit  the  room,  although  it  contains  perhaps  the 
only  cheerful  fire  in  the  liouse,  and  most  probably  it  will  be  a 
raw,  cold,  damp  morning  that  penetrates  to  your  inmost  sensi- 
bility. At  dinner  time,  G  P.  M.,  the  same  coffee  room,  with 
its  dreary  aspect  and  solitary  tables,  scrv-es  to  remind  you  that 
you  are  literally  a  stranger  in  a  strange  place."  It  is  true, 
your  sympathies  for  the  poor,  misanthropic,  pitiable  individuals 
near  you,  may  create  a  little  compassionate  excitement,  as  you 
detect  the  unmistaken  peculiarities  of  the  old  bachelor.  And 
perhaps  the  memory  of  some  "  sweet  boon  "  or  of  a  pair  of 
bright  eyes  indicative  of  a  warmer  heart  which  has  greeted 
you,  and  expressed  its  greetings  in  the  contact  of  tho;c  "  ru- 
bies "  symbolized  by  the  flowers  of  the  Dutch  gardens,  may 
send  a  glow  to  break  up  the  coldness  of  comfort  in  the  coffee 
room  meal.  The  waiter,  (wliom  you  first  supposed  to  be  the 
keeper  or  chaplain  of  the  hotel,  in  his  starched  v/hite  neck 
cloth  and  full  suit  of  black,)  approaches  you.  in  all  the  for- 
mality of  the  place,  and  in  a  most  sepulchral  tone  a.-ks  if 
you  will  have  "a  cut  of  the  joint  ?"  (either  of  the  beef  or 
mutton,  according  to  the  daily  routine.)  You  naturally  order 
the  "bill  of  fare."  "The  what,  sir?"  requires  no  further 
explanation  on  your  part,  and  if  you  happen  to  like  mutton, 
very  well,  but  if  you  don't — you  must  still  eat  it,  as  the  only 
means  of  sustaining  nature.  The  accomi^animents  are  boiled 
potatoes,  cauliflower,  &c.,  and  the  universal  plum  pudding. 
Occasionally  fish  is  ordered ;  a  fact  you  are  made  aware  of 
when  your  bill  is  paid.  After  you  have  finislied  your  mourn- 
ful task  you  are  again  expected-to  vacate  the  room.  As  to  a 
smoke,  you  might  as  well  attempt  it  in  church,  except  perhaps 
after  ten  o'clock  at  night.  If  you  have  ladies,  a  suite  of  rooms 
are  very  quietly  appropriated  to  your  use  and  purse.  In  your 
drawing  room  you  smoke  if  you  choose,  and  perhaps  you  may 
in  your  bed  chamber,  if  you  are  not  sufficiently  impressed  with 
the  smoky  outside  atmosphere.  If  you  suppose  these  simple 
arrangements  are  provided  out  of  regard  to^  your  travellers' 


64  A.SUMMKR's  travel  in  EUROrE. 

allowance  for  expenses,  you  will  find  your  own  simplicity  has 
exceeded  them,  when  you  call  for  your  account  and  find 
charged  £1  per  day.  You  leave  the  hotel,  impatiently  await- 
ing to  reach  the  freer  atmo.-^phere  to  express  your  thoughts  and 
relieve  your  suppressed  list  of  exclamations.  The  same  white 
cravat  and  black  suit  opens  the  door  with  one  hand,  and  with 
a  beseeching  look  and  half  extended  other  hand,  wishes  you  a 
most  delightful  voyage,  or  trip  ;  referring  to  his  ow^n  earnest 
efforts  to  have  made  you  comfortable.  You  acquire  additional 
stock  of  pent  up  speech,  and  with  no  very  gracious  air,  toss 
him  the  half  crown.  Perhaps  the  chambermaid  most  acci- 
dentally meets  you  midway  upon  the  stairs,  and  smiling  says, 
"  good  morninf^,  sir,"  If  you  give  her  a  chance  to  reply 
"  thank  you,  sir,^'  the  white  cravat  of  course  overhears  it,  and 
steps  more  quickly  to  the  door.  If  her  smile  vanishes  with- 
out the  thanks,  the  white*  cravat  receives  his  forebodings  of  in- 
gratitude from  the  white  cap  and  apron  leaning  over  the  bal- 
usters. Outside  you  are  at  last,  and  as  you  begin  to  think 
aloud,  you  are  stopped  by  "  please  not  forget  the  boots,  sir." 
This  breaks  the  cord  that  kept  down  the  safety  valve  of  speech, 
and  a  collapse  is  only  prevented  by  an  extra  escape  of  mono- 
syllables suggestive  of  the  elevation  of  the  boots  upon  your 
feet,  or  a  depression  of  the  living  "  boots  "  to  the  shades.  The 
club-houses  are  an  indispensable  department  of  London  life, 
and  may  account  for  the  very  limited  comforts  of  its  hotels.  At 
Zurich,  in  Switzerland,  an  enterprising  proprietor  has  started 
a  hotel,  partly  on  the  American  principle,  and  was  most 
grateful  to  me  in  1857,  for  many  suggestions  which  he  has  un- 
doubtedly followed.  Our  present  quarters  were  much  Ameri- 
canized, as  it  had  been  for  some  time  headquarters  for  families 
from  the  United  States.  The  "  Havana  "  was  interrupted  by 
the  juveniles  reminding  me  that  the  day's  programme  would 
be  incomplete  without  a  visit  to  the  wonderful  and  interesting 
exhibition  of  wax  statuary  by  Madame  Tussaud.  An  inflexi- 
ble rule  in  their  education  had  been,  never  to  make  a  promise 


APPEARANCES  DECEITFUL." 


65 


Without  its  fulfillment,  and  in  conformity  with  it,  we  once  more 
started  forth  sight-seeing.  This  collection  of  Jife-like  repre- 
sentatives of  royalty,  nobility,  and  the  representatives  of  almost 
every  department  of  the  arts  and  sciences,  is  one  of  the  sights 
of  London  not  to  be  omitted.  It  represents  the  coronation  of 
Geofge  III,  members  of  the  present  Queen's  household,  and 
a  very  large  collection  of  eminent  persons  of  different  times. 
Its  truthfulness  may  be  estimated  by  a  little  anecdote  of  my- 
self. A  very  venerable  looking  gentleman  in  black,  with  hat 
and  spectacles,  was  sitting  apparently  absorbed  in  examining 
the  royal  group, — his  head  turned  in  various  directions,  as  if 
avoiding  the  interruption  of  his  vision  by  visitors.  A  reluc- 
tance to  trespass  upon  the  ordinary  courtesy  of  good  manners 
by  passing  between  him  and  the  objects  of  his  steady  gaze, 
kept  me  detained  for  a  few  moments  to  avoid  doing  this.  It 
was  however  a  matter  of  necessity.  In  passing,  I  hit  his  foot, 
and  of  course  made  as  humble  an  apology  as  I  could.  The 
very  general  smile  that  followed  my  actions  was  rather  con- 
fusing,* which  was  by  no  means  lessened  as  I  found  I  was  ad- 
dressing a  loax  figure  of  William  Cobbett.  A  sleeping  beauty, 
regularly  respiring,  as  you  enter  the  halls,  frequently  causes  a 
jest,  as  one  after  another,  the  visitors  move  stealthily  to  avoid 
interfering  with  her  slumbers.  The  features  in  all  cases,  as 
fai*  as  possible,  are  intended  for  correct  likenesses.  The  dresses 
or  costumes  are  originals  or  "  fac-similes."  The  nationality 
of  the  foundei'  and  maker  of  this  collection  has  betrayed  itself 
in  appropriating  an  apartment  for  the  preservation  of  the  camp- 
bed,  utensils  and  travelling  carriages  of  Napoleon  I,  with 
many  mementos  of  his  dress,  equipments,  documents  and  mili- 
tary papers.  Another  apartment  fully  satiates  the  morbid 
sensibility  that  appreciates  crime  and  its  perpetrators.  A  life 
size  representative  of  nearly  all  the  murderers,  counterfeiters, 
burglars,  assassins  and  the  like,  clothed  with  hardly  an  excep- 
tion, in  the  identical  clothes  of  their  originals,  appropriately 
names  this  apartment  as  the  "  chamber  of  horrors."  The  cast 
6* 


66  A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 

of  Robespierre's  head,  and  those  of  his  confederates  ;  Fieschi, 
standing  befor^  his  infernal  machine  ;  Pianori,  the  attempted 
assassin  of  Louis  Napoleon ;  models  of  houses,  chambers,  &c., 
where  the  murders  have  been  committed  ;  model  of  the  guillo- 
tine, beheading  axe,  &c.,  all  furnish  opportunity  for  a  feast  of 
the  horrible,  to  those  who  luxuriate  on  those  sensations.  ^  As 
this  is  generally  the  last  one  of  the  suit  of  apartments  through 
which  you  pass,  the  mind  Avould  be  in  no  very  somnambulic 
frame,  if  the  brilliantly  lighted  saloons  through  which  3^ou  re- 
pass to  the  door,  animated  by  the  moving  crowd  and  inspiring 
music,  did  not  in  a  manner  change  the  current  of  thought  and 
sensation.  With  this  alleviation,  enough  remains  to  cause  the 
night  lamp's  dull,  cheerless  rays  to  be  appreciated.  We  met 
the  ship's  steward  at  this  museum,  who  introduced  us  to  a  very 
tall,  pretty  ivhite  woman  as  his  wife.  No,  that  could  not  be, 
as  he  had  a  family  in  Boston  ! — as  his  friend,  I  think  the  intro- 
duction must  have  been.  The  most  earnest  admirer  or  ablest 
advocate  of  miscegenation  would  have  been  satisfied  in  this 
practical  exposition  of  his  principles.  The  woman's  fairness 
of  complexion  and  maturity  of  figure  was  certainly  well  posed 
against  the  ebony  colored  visage  and  masculine  form  of  the 
steward.  In  England,  however,  the  novelty  of  colored  persons 
has  not  as  yet  created  that  broad  line  of  distinction  in  vocation 
or  association  as  in  this  country,  where  the  contrast  has  made 
its  significance  in  its  familiarity  of  existence. 


WOMAN. 


It  was  a  most  fortunate  circumstance  in  my  last  paper,  that 
its  prescribed  limits  had  been  reached  before  the  moral  of  the 
story  of  the  steward  and  his  female  friend  was  appended.  I 
might  have  ventured  into  a  most  dangerous,  (to  my  gallantry,) 
field  of  thought,  or  rather  observation,  in  accounting  for  the 
dissimilarity  of  birth  and  position,  but  not  of  congeniality,  on 
the  part  of  this  representative  of  the  female  sex.  Was  it 
caprice,  sympathy,  benevolence,  or  indifference  that  adn|i|ted 
of  this  unnatural  association  ?  Woman's  nature  is  a  strange 
compound  !  It  may  embrace  in  its  composition  every  virtue, 
grace,  and  the  concentration  of  loveliness, — -receiving  from  the 
stei-ner  sex,  the  n^st  yielding,  compromising,  submissive  hom- 
age and  adoration,  when  its  sincerity  and  honesty  are  well 
attested  by  its  words  and  deeds,  and  the  consciousness  of  re- 
sponsive, unquestioned  truthfulness,  stimulates  the  woman's 
honest,  generous  impulses  of  an  ardent  temperament,  into  no 
measured  words  and  actions.  It  may  arouse  the  most  lethargic 
energies  of  the  mind  and  affections,  when  its  own  heart  beats 
with  a  true  impulse.  But  when  this  power  and  control  which 
God  has  placed  within  its  reach,  is  used  only  to  excite  the  no- 
bler impulses  of  humanity,  for  the  purpose  of  exulting  in  the 


68 


A  summer's   travel  in  EUROPE. 


conquest ;  when  cold,  repulsive  ridicule  characterizes  its  suc- 
cess, and  false,  heartless  treachery  dims  the  sunlight  it  had 
created,  and  inflicts  the  pain  it  cannot  feel,  it  incurs  the  re- 
sponsibility of  destiny  to  others,  unmeasured  by  time's  greatest 
duration,  and  unatoned  for  by  » life's  penance  of  sorrow  and 
contrition.  The  ideal  embodiment  of  refinement,  delicacy  and 
loveliness,  how  can  woman  account  for  her  strange  caprices  ? 
Little  did  the  steward  realize  the  effect  of  his  introduction;  less 
would  he  have  had  the  opportunity  ot  appreciating  our  "  stew- 
ard's fees,"  had  we  known  its  intended  appropriation.  So  much 
for  a  visit  to  Madame  Tussaud  !  The  bright  glare  from  the  gas- 
lights of  the  street  lamps  and  "  gin  palaces,"  the  fresh  air.  and 
stimulating  walk  to  our  quarters,  recalled  our  associations  of 
other  times,  and  weary  with  our  day's  work,  we  gladly  found 
ourselves  in  contact  with  slumber's  soundest  realities.  After 
breakfast,  we  retraced  our  steps  of  the  previous  day,  and  re- 
turned to  the  Houses  of  Parliament.  A  fortunate,  casual 
meeting  with  a  gentleman,  (whose  name  and  address  were  un- 
known*to  us,  but  if  perchance  this  paper  should  meet  his  eye, 
will  receive  our  remembered  indebtedness  to  his  courtesy,) 
carried  us  through  the  building  very  generally.  We  saw 
mei||^)ers  of  the  House  of  Peers,  with  their  large  flowing  gray 
wigs  and  black  robes ;  members  of  the  House  of  Commons 
sitting  in  committees  on  bribery  election  cases,  in  ordinary 
civil  dress  ;  barristers  with  the  small  curled  gray  wigs  and 
black  robes,  pleading  before  the  bench,  in  cj^es  of  criminal  or 
civil  nature  ;  military  men  in  undress,  and  a  crowd  of  hangers 
on,  lobby  members,  and  runners  very  similar  in  their  vocation 
and  appearance  to  an  ordinary  gathering  at  home. 

A  drive  soon  brought  us  to  the  British  Museum.  Here  my 
proclivities  for  a  wearisome  description  are  annihilated,  so 
worse  than  useless  would  be  the  attempt.  After  passing 
through  its  numberless,  almost  endless  halls  and  apartments  of 
antiquities,  sculpture,  paintings,  mineralogy,'  zoology,  and  de- 
partments of  the  other  arts  and  sciences,  we  came  to  the  door 


A  CONTRAST  TO  "SNOBBISHNESS." 


69 


of  the  reading  room,  and  was  stopped  from  entering  by  the 
notice  of  a  card  of  admission  being  required.  We  had  none, 
not  knowing  of  the  necessity.  The  inquiry  for  a  gentleman, 
upon  whose  office  door  I  observed  the  posted  information  of  his 
being  at  the  museum,  and  with  wliom  I  had  business,  brought 
to  us  another  courteous  person.  I  commenced  my  questions 
of  the  subject  matter  with  him,  when  he  informed  me  that  a 
similarity  of  name  had  caused  a  mistake  in  our  interview. 
But  askinoj  if  we  were  strann^fs,  he  introduced  himself  as  an 
official  of  the  institution,  and  most  attentively  escorted  us 
through  the  parts  of  the  building  and  library,  which  we  had 
not  seen.  I  mention  these  instances  of  extreme  courtesy  and 
kindness,,  in  contrast  with  the  snobbishness  I  had  at  other  times 
encountered  from  those  whose  unfounded  pretensions  were 
their  only  claims  to  good  breeding  or  consideration.  This 
reading  room  is  of  itself  a  noble  monument  of  England'g^ 
liberality  to  her  people,  within  whose  reach  it  is  available.  It 
is  circular,  surmounted  by  an  elegant  dome,  one  hundred  and 
forty  feet  in  diameter,  and  one  hundred  and  six  feet  high.  It 
will  accommodate  three  hundred  readers,  cost  £150,000, 
($750,000,)  has  20,000  volumes,  is  free  to  all  under  certain 
restrictions,  and  exclusive  conveniences  for  ladies.  The  whole 
cost  of  the  Museum  to  1854,  was  £800,000,  ($4,000,000.) 
The  exploration  of  this  immense  structure,  the  unyielding  de- 
mand upon  the  mind  in  its  varied  objects  of  interest  and  in- 
struction, the  physical  energy  demanded  in  traversing  its 
measureless  halls,  brought  to  us  a  consciousness  of  effi^rt  and 
fatigue  we  were  compelled  to  regard,  and  placed  us  on  our 
homeward  route.  Dinner  at  61  P.  M.,  as  usual ;  the  cus- 
tomary smohe  ;  tea  at  8|  P.  M.,  and  the  sweetest  music  on  the 
harp  by  a  lady  guest,  whose  proficiency  was  equalled  in  the 
suavity  of  her  acquiescence  to  our  "  encores these  varied 
incidents  marked  the  day's  and  evening's  })rogress  to  the  time 
of  retiring.  Thursday,  August  4th,  after  breakfast  found  the 
three  male  members  of  my  family  in  a  "  Hansom,"  bound  to  Pea- 


70 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


body  &  Go's  for  letters  and  funds.  We  were  soon  moving  with 
the  crowding  current  of  mortality,  through  the  thoroughfares 
with  a  snail's  pace,  but  with  more  than  his  apprehension  of 
danger.  It  would  have  been  impossible,  apparently,  at  times  to 
have  inserted  the  thickness  of  an  inch  between  our  vehicle  and 
the  ponderous  bulks  of  merchandise,  which  seemed  towering 
over  us  for  our  destruction.  If  there  were  no  hair  breadth 
escapes,  there  certainly  were  hair  breadth  passes. 

The  silent,  yet  speaking  messengers  of  affection  and  friend- 
ship from  home  w^ere  read,  and  congratulations  exchanged 
that  Omnipresence  was  one  of  the  attributes  of  Divine  mercy. 
The  assurances  of  "  all's  well  "  added  to  the  cheerfulness  of 
the  morning's  sunlight,  and  quickened  our  movements  for  a 
visit  to  the  Zoological  and  Botanical  Gardens,  both  of  which 
are  located  within  the  enclosure  of  Regent's  Park.  In  the 
Iktter  were  the  most  luxuriant  growth  of  flowers  arranged  in 
form  of  large  baskets,  vases,  fountains,  &c.,  adding  a  rich  fra- 
grance to  the  air,  and  causing  most  frequent  exclamations  of 
"beautiful"  and  "lovely."  "Within  the  garden  is  a  large  hot  house, 
containing  a  choice  and  extensive  collection  of  exotic  plants 
from  India,  Egypt  and  other  tropical  climes.  A  shilling  fee 
for  admission  from  strangers  and  visitors  forms  a  fund  from 
which  additions  and  improvements  are  made.  The  Zoological 
Gardens  are  very  extensive,  and  present  a  favorable  opportu- 
nity to  the  amateurs  and  students  of  Natural  History,  for  a 
study  of  the  habits  and  form  of  a  great  variety  of  animals, 
from  almost  every  clime.  The  gambols  of  black  bears,  climb- 
ing, dancing  and  jumping  for  the  reward  of  the  buns,  cakes 
and  nuts  from  children  of  every  growth  and  age  ;  monkeys 
satirizing  humanity  in  posture  and  motion ;  hippopotami 
swashing  in  a  pool  of  turbid  water,  and  in  their  graceless,  re- 
pulsive form,  offering  a  strong  contrast  to  the  more  beautiful  of 
the  animal  creation  ;  elephant-',  giraffes,  lions,  tigers,  panthers, 
hyenas,  Avith  a  hundred  other  varieties  of  animals  ;  birds  from 
every  country,  and  of  every  variety  of  plumage  ;  reptiles  of 


A  CONTRACTED  "  UNDERSTANDING." 


71 


almost  every  species,  and  many  varieties  of  genus;  fish  in  aqua- 
riums, with  aquatic  plants,  shell-fish  and  the  like,  these  altogether 
offer  attractions  for  a  day's  repeated  examination.  A  similar 
fee  for  admission  sustains,  in  part,  this  attractive  feature  of 
London  sights,  and  with  the  annual  tax  upon  the  members  of 
the  corporation,  equalizes  the  deficiency  of  income.  Yoronce 
I  yielded  to  the  repeated  assurance  of  the  superiority  of  paper 
soled  shoes  !  My  companion  had  brought  a  pair  of  Mosley's 
renowned  summer  boots  from  Boston,  without  the  precaution  of 
a  fair  trial  of  size  or  proper  regard  for  comfort.  The  discrep- 
ancy between  these  preservers  of  the  health,  and  nature's  de- 
velopment was  so  great,  that  every  step  was  accompanied  by  a 
sigh,  and  every  seat  a  respite  from  suffering.  Jf  the  boots  had 
been  adapted,  as  I  had  so  frequently  entreated,  to  the  pur- 
poses to  which  they  were  intended,  I  am  sure  locomotion 
would  have  been  impossible,  and  the  garden  would  have  had  a 
■fixture  not  in  its  programme,  or  to  my  liking  or  consent. 

There  are  but  very  few  wharves  or  piers  on  the  Thames  at 
which  vessels  can  be  moored.  Certain  portions  of  the  river 
are  appropriated  to  the  various  kinds  of  craft.  Each  varied 
department  has  its  appropriate  locality  below  London  bridge. 
The  vessels  are  anofcored  in  the  centre  of  the  stream.  The 
colliers  are  by  far  the  most  numerous,  and  that  portion  of  the 
river  called  the  "  Pool "  is  exclusively  for  their  occupancy. 
The  "  Moselle,"  for  Hamburg,  was  at  anchor  near  the  left 
bank  of  the  Thames  and  could  be  boarded  only  by  a  small  boat. 
Properly  regarding  my  friends'  very  great  anxiety,  and  aver- 
sion to  thi>water,  which  five  passages  across  the  Atlantic  could 
not  annihilate,  or  hardly  ameliorate,  I  took  the  precaution  on 
Friday,  August  5th,  to  have  the  luggage  packed  up  and  trans- 
ported to  the  steamer  preparatory  to  leaving  London  on  the 
next  morning,  and  thus  enable  me  to  appropriate  my  whole 
time  and  attention  to  others'  fears  and  comfort.  I  have  in  a 
previous  paper  expressed  my  opinion  of  the  English  ideas  of 
comfort  or  luxury,  whether  at  home,  or  in  transitu  by  land  and 


72 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


sea.  The  coaling  of  the  steamer  as  we  went  on  board,  was 
not  either  calcuhited  to  dispel  my  former  prejudice  in  relation 
to  the  cleanliness,  or  assist  me  in  disposing  of  my  traps  most 
comfortably.  The  jolly -faced,  rotund  steward  was  a  good  har- 
binger of  the  arrangements  for  the  inner  man,  however. 
Leaving  our  traps  and  "  hoping  for  the  best  "  we  turned  our 
steps  toward  the  station  of  the  railway  for  Blackwall  in  Fen- 
church  Street.  A  short  ride  of  twenty  minutes  brought  us  to 
the  East  India  Docks,  and  less  time  sufficed  to  place  us  on 

board  our  good  ship  .    Mrs.  G.  was  "  at  home,"  and 

the  two  young  ladies  ;  all  that  were  left  of  the  former  friends 
and  companions  of  our  voyage.  An  eager  wish  to  roam 
through  the  state  rooms,  was  annihilated  at  the  sight  of  sus- 
pended crinolines  and  skirts  from  hooks,  where  for  many  a 
long  night  I  had  watched  the  oscillations  of  trowsers  and 
coats, — sometimes  traversing  with  regular  sweeps  a  well  de- 
lineated curve,  and  then  again  swinging  off  and  against  the 
bulkhead  of  the  state  rooms  with  a  "  thwack,"  that  told  us 
how  nonsensicall}^ absurd  it  would  be,  to  attempt  a  promenade 
upon  deck,  even  if  midnight  darkness  did  not  prevent.  Deli- 
neate slippers  in  rather  a  neglige  position,  reminded  me  not 
only  of  moi  e  symmetrical  proportions  Aan  my  own,  but  of 
seeing  sea  shoes  and  boots  chasing  each  other  across  the 
length  and  breadth  of  the  carpet,  convincing  one  of  the  faith- 
fulness of  the  maker,  as  in  the  morning  you  find  them  half  full 
of  water,  in  consequence  of  the  unsteadiness  of  the  pitcher 
in  the  wash  bowk 

How  changed  and  lost  were  all  these  association^f  the  past. 
"  Thrashing  whales,"  "  John  Bunyan  cigars,"  "  cook's  fight," 
doughnuts,  gingerbread,  tempests,  calms,  sunshines,  and 
clouds,"  and  the  thousand  and  one  incidents  of  a  five  week's 
sea  voyage,  had  all  become  matters  of  history  :  and  as  we 
passed  over  the  bulwarks,  bidding  adieu  to  our  warm  hearted 
friend  and  leaving  our  regards  for  Capt.  G.,  a  feeling  of  sad- 
ness' checked  the  elasticity  of  our  movements,  and  a  stray  tear 


JUSTIFIABLE  DISSATISFACTION.  73 
• 

expressed  the  warm  impulses  of  childhood's  memories  of 
pleasures  and  friends  parted  forever.  A  return  to  quaiters, 
arranging  funds,  paying  bills,  and  a  general  closing  up  of  ac- 
counts and  affairs,  brought  us  to  the  dinner  hour  and  its  usual 
subsequent  events.  Saturday  morning,  breakfast  over,  with 
many  good  wishes  for  our  health  and  pleasure,  we  again  com- 
menced our  "  Wanderings,"  in  two  cabs,  for  the  "  Moselle  "  and 
Hamburg.  "The  cab  driver  understanding  our  movements  to 
be  those  of  a  departure  from  his  chances  of  employment,  be- 
trayed the  usual  dissatisfiiction  in  receiving  his  regular  fees. 
As  time  did  not  press,  I  had  the  curiosity  to  enquire  the  reason 
for  the  universal  grumbling  among  persons  of  his  occupation. 
In  all  my  excursions,  drives,  sight-seeings  and  the  like,  I  do 
not  remember  of  ever  receiving  a  "  thank  ye,  sir,"  although  I 
universally  paid  more  than  the  printed  tariffs  inside  the  car- 
jdages.  His  explanation  excited  my  sympathy  rather  than 
indignation.  All  cabs  are  owned  by  associations.  The  trans- 
portation of  passengers  is  regulated  by  law,  and  varies  accord- 
ing to  distance,  time  and  hours.  The  charges  from  8  P.  M. 
to  6  A.  M.  are  increased  one-third,  and  in  some  cases  one  half. 
Every  driver  is  numbered  and  registered,  as  shown  by  the 
large  brass.plate  suspended  from  his  neck.  For  the  use  of 
one  horse  and  a  cab  from  6  A.  M.  to  8  T*.  M.,  he  must  pay  the 
proprietors  eleven  shillings  (equal  to  $2,75)  for  the  previous 
day's  work,  before  he  can  mount  his  box  in  the  morning.  For 
the  same,  he  must  pay  thirteen  shillings,  ($3,25,)  if  used  from 
8  o'clock  P.  M.  to  6  A.  M.  There  is  no  forfeiture  allowed. 
If  he  does  not  pay,  he  cannot  have  his  cab.  If  he  cannot 
borrow,  as  is  often  dene,  from  his  fellow  drivers,  he  loses  the 
day.  They  are  generally  men  at  or  past  the  meridian  of  life, 
with  large  families  dependent  upon  them.  A  bad  day's  work, 
or  no  employment,  has  no  response  of  sympathy  from  the 
relentless  employers.  The  very  risks  they  incur  of  abuse  to 
horses  and  cabs,  and  the  irresponsibility  of  the  drivers,  (who 
must  also  feed  the  horses  during  the  day,)  may  render  this  un- 
7 


74  A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 

compromising  demand  necessary.  Tlie  drivers  are  generally 
in  infirm  health,  constitutions  broken  by  disease  or  exposure, 
and  in  fact  are  fitted  for  no  other  vocation.  They  literally 
"  know  not  what  a  day  hiay  bring  forth."  If  to-day's  receipts 
are  full,  to-morrow's  may  be  lacking.  And  hence  the  least  in- 
decision in  paying  your  fare  stimulates  the  wished  for  look  and 
hope  of  more.  You  refer  them  to  the  tariff,—"  All  right,  sir, 
but  it's  a  bad  day  for  me,  yer  'onor,  and  God's  blessing  on  ye 
for  a  trifle  more,  yer  'onor."  At  the  sight  of  a  policeman,  or 
a  fellow-countryman,  whose  calling  is  above  his  own,  he  gives 
you  the  "  tip  of  his  hat "  as  he  mounts  his  box,  but  not  the 
"  thank  ye,  yer  'onor,"  unless  he  has  the  trifle  more.  And  as 
the  cab  men,  so  are  all  the  others  of  a  similar  position  in  life. 
You  bargain  fairly  with  the  porters  who  take  your  traps  to 
the  water's  side  from  the  cab,  or  from  the  cars  to  the  cabs,  they 
can  always  make  four  out  of  three,  or  count  some  part  as  ^ 
piece ;  so  with  the  boatman,  so  with  every  one.  But  to  an 
Englishman,  or  Englishwoman,  there  is  no  grumbling.  John 
Bull  knows  his  brother,  and  not  a  farthing's  generosity  or 
sympathy  ever  passes  from  his  pocket,  or  is  seldom  demanded. 
But  a  stranger, ^specially  our  fellow-countrymen,  are  invaria-> 
bly  recognized,  and  the  quick-witted  Yankee  is  'frequently 
over-reached  by  his  English  cousin's  effrontery  or  necessity. 

At  9  A.  M.  the  steamer  was  in  motion.  The  dark,  murky 
mass  of  water  swayed  to  and  fro  ;  the  life-covered  river  was 
retraced  ;  London  bridge  became  a  hair-lined  arch  ;  the  dome 
of  St.  Paul's  lost  its  grandeur  in  the  distance,  and  the  pier  at 
Blackwall  was  passed,  leaving  with  it  the  associations  which 
were  created,  as  we  were  first  on  its  sofid  earth  one  week 
previous.  A  large  steamer  from  Holland,  freighted»tvith  cattle, 
arrested  our  progress.  Then  "  Woolwich,"  Trinity  house 
wharves,  and  finally  Gravesend  were  behind  us,  as  we  passed 
from  the  Thames  into  the  English  Channel,  and  turned  our 
bows  for  the  North  Sea.    The  navigation  is  difficult  and  dan- 


SnOALS  AND  SAND  BARS. 


75 


gerous,  on  account  of  the  constantly  shifting  shoals  and  sand 
bars.  Light  ships  aiid  beac(5Hs  are  numerous.  But  a  qui(;k 
eye,  constant  watch  and  uninterrupted  attention  are  the  best 
guarantees  of  safety  and  progress. 


XI. 


"north  sea"  and  its  living  memories. 

An  early  breakfast,  and  the  sea  air  from  a  pleasant  sky,  made 
us  keenly  sensitive  to  the  approach  of  the  dinner  hour,  at  3  P.  M. 
on  t\iB  "  Moselle."  The  saloon  being  in  the  after  part  of  the 
vessel,  was  circular  in  form,  and  arranged  with  hair  cloth, 
seats.  The  tables  beinof  straight,  made  the  distance  at  one 
end,  and  the  nearness  of  the  other  from  the  seats,  rather  an- 
noying to  those  whose  precaution  had  not  suggested  the  pro- 
priety of  an  early  selection.  A  heavy  roll,  I  should  suppose, 
would  have  precipitated  those  upon  the  seats  under  the  table, 
without  incurring  the  risk  of  a  libel  to  any  one  in  attributing 
such  a  casualty  to  a  departure  from  the  temperance  j^latform. 
I  have  generally  observed  that  thes Aair  cloth  luxuries  were 
always  vacated  in  a  heavy  sea.  There  is  not  the  affinity  of 
attraction  sufficiently  strong  to  obviate  J;he  liability  of  a  slide. 
The  dinner  was  very  fair,  but  did  not  justify  the  promise 
which  the  steward's  rotundity  had  made.  Soup,  boiled  and  • 
roast  beef,  roast  mutton,  ham,  &c.,  with  potatoes  and  cauli- 
flower, succeeded  by  the  plum  pudding,  made  up  th^  bill  of 
fare.    Water  free  ;  ale,  porter,  and  wines  as  paid  for. 

The  day  continued  pleasant.  This  North  Sea  must  be  a  very 
treacherous  pfcice  for  a  sailing  ship  or  even  steamers  in  a  gale. 


REALITIES  AND  VARIETIES.  77 

from  the  numberless  shoals  and  shifting  channels.  Tea,  at 
7  P.  M.,  brought  all  hands  below ;  and  this,  followed  by  the 
Havanas,"  closed  the  first  day's  adventures  of  a  sail  from 
London  to  Hamburg.  But  the  night's  story  cannot  be  told,  as 
we  retired  to  our  state  rooms  for  rest  and  sleep.  The  rooms 
were  about  six  feet  wide  and  eiglit  long.  Two  berths  lengthwise 
(one  above  the  other)  and  two  crosswise,  left  a  very  small 
area  for  three  persons  to  disrobe  at  night,  or  enjoy  their  ablu- 
tions, or  toilet  in  the  morning.  From  this  space  is  to  be 
deducted  that  occupied  by  the  wash  stand,  and  a  seat  perma-  ^ 
nently ;  and  carpet  bags,  shawls,  hats,  caps,  bonnets,  cloaks  and 
boots  temporarily.  A  retreat  to  the  saloon  for  quarters,  was 
no  sooner  thought  of  than  taken,  but  on  opening  the  doors, 
what  an  atmosphere !  Ranged  all  round,  upon  and  under  the 
seats,  the  large  number  of  male  passengers  were  "  en  desha- 
bille ;"  describing  all  the  varieties  of  position,  from  Hogarth's 
line  of  beauty  to  a  right-angle  triangle.  Heads  covered  with 
white  knit  caps,  bandanna  handkerchiefs,  red,  and  blue,  or  wig- 
less  and  bald;  raven  locks  most  essentially  disheveled  ;  stock- 
ings, boots,  hats  and  caps,  coats  and  trowsers,  imitations  of  dis- 
tant thunderings,  or  of  roaring  bulls  and  beasts,  and  asthmatic 
wheezing,  formed  sights,  scenes  and  souiMs  that  made  a  second 
retreat  more  precipitate  than  the  first.  The  report  of  our 
masculine  wanderings,  prompted  the  suggestion  of  sending  a 
detachment  from  our  squad  to  the  ladies'  quarters.  Again  a 
door  was  opened,  and  as  a  stolen  glance  revealed  female  loveli- 
ness, divested  of  its  artificial  embellishments  of  coiffures  and 
curls,  flounces  and  flowers,  sitting  in  its  ghost-like  apparel 
around  the  miserable  allotments  of  this  "  ladies'  saloon,"  sleep- 
less and  excited  by  no  sensations  or  expressions  of  a  terres- 
•trial  paradise,  a  third  retreat  was  announced,  and  led  to  a 
parley  for  capitulations  of  peace  and  possession.  As  the  foot 
of  the  berths  lengthwise,  extended  into  those  crosswise,  it  was 
by  no  means  a  matter  of  indifference  as  to  the  tranquillity  of 
tUi  slumbers  of  the  different  candidates  for  Morpheus  favors. 

7* 


78 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


However,  all  things  have  an  end.  And  as  that  of  the  state 
rooms,  berths,  and  water  pitcher  was  most  correctly  ascertained, 
so  was  the  night's  duration  terminated ;  and  daylight  in 
homoeopathic  particles  was  dispensed  through  the  skylight. 
It  required  no  morning  gun  to  arouse  us,  from  what  we  did 
not  have,  slumbers;  and  the  fresh  air  of  the  upper  deck  was 
a  luxury  appreciated  then,  if  never  before.  I  believe  an 
Englishman  would  make  his  will  and  try  to  fly,  if  he  could  see 
the  arrangements  of  our  steamers.  He  would  believe  himself 
in  fairy  land,  or  some  other  beatitude  of  existence. 

Sunday  morning  came,  but  I  am  sorry  to  add,  without  the 
sacred  influences  which  should  ever  characterize  its  presence. 
Breakfast  at  8  A.  M.  The  sail  was  very  monotonous.  After 
dinner,  the  island  of  Heligoland  was  visible  through  the  glass, 
and  at  sunset,  to  the  eye,  without.  It  presents  a  bold  bluff 
shore,  belongs  (since  1.807)  to  Great  Britain,  contains  three 
thousand  persons,  and  is  aj^parently  strongly  fortified.  .  At 
night,  the  lighthouse  of  Cuxhaven  was  also  distinctly-  setn. 
And  as  we  approached  the  river  Elbe,  the  lights  from  the  light- 
ships, other  vessels,  and  from  the  shore,  quite  animated  us,  by 
which,  a  second  night's  toil  and  trouble  was  anticipated  and 
endured,  with  more  of  complacency  and  patience.  In  conse- 
quence of  the  intricacies  of  the  mouth  of  the  Elbe,  we  dropped 
anchor  for  the  night. 

At  daylight,  with  a  pilot  on  board,  we  were  under  way  up 
the  river.  The  western  bank  belongs  to  the  Duchy  of  Han- 
over, the  eastern  bank  to  the  Duchy  of  Holstein,  in  Denmark. 
At  Stade,  the  dues  imposed  by  the  Hanoverian  government,  on 
all  vessels  passing  up  and  down  the  Elbe,  are  collected  by  the 
small  boats  from  •  the  sltop  of  war  anchored  in  the  stream. 
The  steamer  was  not  stopped,  as  I  suppose  some  arrangements* 
were  made  to  avoid  this  detention.  But  other  vessels  were 
challenged  and  boarded  for  this  imposition,  which  has  been 
yielded  to  and  observed  since  1691.  The  right  of  Hanover 
in  this  matter,  if  questioned,  has  not  as  yet  been  canceled 
annihilated. 


PISTOLS  AND  COJ'FEE." 


79 


The  village  of  Gluckstadt,  capital  of  the  Duchy,  witli  six 
thousand  inhabitants,  lies  a  short  distance  beyond  Stade,  upon 
the  Holstein  bank.  Next,  the  little  fishing  village  of  Blanke- 
nese  ;  then  Altona,  (which  is  nearest  to,  but  not  connected  with 
Hamburg  by  its  streets  and  buildings,)  a  Danish  town  with 
twenty-seven  thousand  inhabitants,  and  next  in  size  to  Copen- 
hagen. The  eastern  banks  of  the  Elbe  are  hilly,  with  a  slo- 
ping descent  to  the  river.  There  are  many  beautiful  country 
seats  and  villas  belonging  to,  and  during  the  summer  months, 
occupied  by,  the  more  opulent  citizens  of  Hamburg.  Booth's 
celebrated  nursery  gardens ;  Rainsville's  Tavern  and  Tea- 
gardens,  (where,  in  a  pleasant  summer's  afternoon  and  evening, 
some  of  the  most  refined  society  in  Hamburg  is  met  with,) 
and  the  pleasure  grounds  of  Mr.  Bauer,  open  Thursdays  and 
Sundays  to  the  public,  are  all  within  a  fine  drive  of  six  or 
eight  miles.  Opposite  the  city  is  the  village  of  Haarburg  up- 
on the  Hanover  river  bank,  and  from  which  steam  ferry  boats 
frequently  pass  and  repass.  The  harbor  of  Hamburg  is  very 
commodious  and  well  protected.  Shipping'  of  various  kinds 
with  steamers  at  the  quays,  gave  a  favorable  impression  of  its 
activity  and  prosperity.  .  A  parental  search  was  upon  the  alert 
to  detect,  in  the  boats  passing  to  and  from  the  "  Moselle  "  and 
the  quays,  with  passengers,  porters,  hotel  runners,  &c.,  the 
countenance  and  form  of  one,  whose  absence  for, a  year  had 
broken  the  happy  fireside  circle  at  home!  A  sudden  excla- 
mation, and  the  expression  of  affection  which  the  lips  can  so 
audibly  announce ;  the  hearty  recognition  of  friends  loving 
and  long-parted  behind  me,  diverted  my  attention  from  the 
boats  and  raised  serious  questionings  in  my  mind,  whether 
pistols  and  cofiee  for  two,"  would  not  be  our  first  entertain- 
ment on  shore.  A  tall,  germanized,  whiskered,  gentlemanly 
looking  chap,  was  making  himself  decidedly  familiar  with  the 
face  and  hands  of  my  gentler  friends  and  companions.  In  at- 
tempting to  interfere  with  this  familiarity,  I  was  also  assaulted 
upon  one  cheek  and  then  the  other,  so  fast  and  so  fervently 


80 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


that  my  equilibrium  was  only  restored  by  the  salutation, 
"  Why,  father,  how  are  you  ?"  "  How  have  you  been  ?"  fol- 
lowed up  with  such  a  volley  of  questions  and  answers  all 
around  me,  that  the  moistened  drops  of  gratitude  and  love 
were  soon  flowing  freely,  unchecked  and  unheeded.  A  familiar 
relative  and  loved  companion  of  a  son's  boyhood's  warm  im- 
pulses and  maturer  friendship,  came  next  in  the  "  general 
orders  "  issued,  for  a  more  than  national  salute.  This,  then,  was 
the  source  of  my  questionable  misgivings  and  jealousies.  This 
recovered  link  in  the  heart's  chain  of  parental  affection.  But 
wa|  this  a  son,  or  a  pretender  ?  Was  it  possible  time  had  made 
such  progress  ?    0  tempores  mutantur  ! 


XIL 


HAMBURG. 


Coffee  was  ordered,  as  was  anticipated  in  my  last,  but  the 
pistols  were  omitted.  Hamburg,  as  your  readers  may  know,  is 
the  principal  seaport  of  Germany,  the  entrance  tonnage  in 
1857  being  1,632,492  tons,  and  the  clearance  1,G7I,265  tons. 
There  are  no  docks,  but  the  city  being  intersected  by  canals 
near  the  river,  these  furnish  facilities  for  the  receiving  and 
shipping  pf  goods,  in  the  access  to  th^  numerous  warehouses. 
The  city  was  the  scene  of  a  disastrous  conflagration  in  1842, 
which  was  so  great  a  calamity  as  to  demand  and  receive  active 
sympathy  from  other  countries.  Nearly  1800  buildings  were 
destroyed,  embracing  sixty-one  streets,  and  the  estimate  loss 
was  nearly  two  millions  of  dollars.  The  rubbish  from  this 
conflagration  was  so  great  in  quantity  as  to  raise  a  swampy 
piece  of  land  (upon  which  it  was  deposited)  four  feet  from 
the  natural  surface,  for  a  square  mile.  Terrible  as  was  the 
devastation  at  the  time,  the  city  can  hardly  be  said  to  have  been 
the  loser.  New,  large  and  commodious  ediflces  have  beeh 
erected ;  squares  and  new  streets  opened.  As  I  stood  at  the 
windows  of  "  Streits's  Hotel,"  and  observed  the  fine  rows  of 
dwellings  upon  three  sides  of  the  "  Binnen  Alster,"  with  wide, 
handsome  streets  in  front,  it  was  difficult  to  call  the  conflagra- 


82 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


tion  of  1842,  a  calamity*  There  are  two  basins  of  water 
brought  by  the  canals  from  the  river  Alster,  at  the  mouth  of 
which  the  city  is  located.  The  inner  one,  or  the  "  Binnen 
Alster,"  is  the  favorite  resort  for  the  beauty  and  £ashion  of 
Hamburg,  of  a  summer's  afternoon  and  eve.  The  long  rows 
of  trees  upon  the  water-side  of  the  streets  ;  the  cool  shady  re- 
treat they  offer  from  a  midsummer  sun  ;  the  public  gardens, 
although  small,  containing  cafes  and  music ;  and  the  occupancy 
for  the  same,  of  the  first  floors  of  the  handsome  buildings,  all 
concentrate  attractions  here  not  afforded  in  other  parts  of  the 
city.  The  basin  offers  opportunities  for  the  manly  aquatic 
sports  of  boat  clubs,  &c.  A  little  steamer,  no  larger  than  a 
ship's  long  boat,  with  its  mimic  smoke  pipe  and  steam  whistle, 
was  constantly  plying  across  the  w^ater,  and  offering  a  most 
tempting  inducement  for  the  investment  of  small  coin,  which 
my  juveniles  were  not  proof  against.  The  northei-ly  side  of 
the  inner  basin  is  bounded  by  a  fine  avenue  for  a  drive  and 
walk;  w^hich  separating  it  from  the  "  Grosse  (or  outer)  Alster" 
is  also  connected  with  what  was  formerly  the  ramparts  and 
fortifications.  It  is  a  fine  course  for  the  pedestrian,  or  those 
preferring  the  more  lux*irious  ride  or  drive.  The  other  parts  of 
the  city,  where  the  fire  did  noC  extend,  have  a  very  peculiar  ap- 
pear?lnce,  and  remind  the  stranger  of  the  old  towns  in  Holland. 

The  Jews'  quarter  is  very  marked.  The  houses  are  nar- 
row and  tall,  with  high  pointed  gables,  small  windows,  timber 
ties  intersecting  at  .  different  angles  the  front  mason  work,  and 
the  roofs  tiled  with  the  pec«liar  semi-circular  tiles  used  for 
the  purpose  so  generally  on  the  continent.  The  streets  are 
more  like  long  lanes,  in  width  ;  and  as  the  density  of  popula- 
tion, or  rather  proclivity  for  socialistic  concentration,  is  as 
Strongly  developed  in  the  descendants  of  Moses,  as  it  is  in  the 
natives  of  the  Emerald  Isle, — and  the  personal  habits  of  either 
not  strictly  unexceptionable, — one  can  readily  imagine  the 
nature  of  the  attractions  and  inducements  for  a  ramble  through 
this  part  of  Hamburg. 


SUBTERRANEAN  MUSIC. 


83 


The  associations  of  a  horse  railway  car,  or  an  omnibus, 
at  noon  or  night  of  a  rainy  dj)^,  furnish  a»  very  fair 
subject  of  comparison  witli  the  amount  of  space  in  which 
an  individual  can  exist  in  an  upright  position.  But  hoiv  such 
numbers  are  arranged,  when  subjected  to  the  detail  of  family 
arrangement*,  is,  and  I  most  fervently  hope  ever  will  be,  a 
matter  of  conjecture.  The  population  in  1857  was  over  one 
hundred  and  sixty-six  thousand,  ten  thousand  of  whom  are 
Jews  and  two  thousand  "Roman  Catholics.  The^  popular  re- 
ligion is  the  Lutheran  faith.  There  are  a  large  number  of 
*  charitable  institutions  of  a  sanitary,  benevolent  and  educational 
character.  There  are  also  literary  institutions,  and  public  and 
society  libraries,  containing  two  hundred  and  thirty  thousand 
volumes.  Museums  of  natural  history,  antiquities,  the  arts,  an 
academy  of  music,  a  botanical  garden  and  an  observatory, 
furnish  resources  for  instruction  and  amusement,  of  an  eleva- 
tino;  character.  I  here  attended  a  heer  concert !  ReturninGf 
one  evening  from  a  stroll,  and  hearing  strains  of  music,  not 
from  the  elevated  regions  of  halls,  or  the  drawing  room,  but 
from  subterranean  courts,  my  young  friend  and  relative,  with 
whom  I  was  walking,  confiding  in  his  knowledge  of  the  lan- 
guage and  habits  of  the  people,  offered  to  be  my  cicerone  in 
the  investigation,  Avhicli  my  strongly  developed  Yankee  curiosity 
suggested. 

Gradually  accustoming  our  senses  of  sight  and  smell  to  the 
impenetrable,  suffocating  clouds  of  poor  tobacco  smoke  exhaled 
from  the  immense  German  pipes,  the  color  and  smell  of  which 
indicated  their  age,  free  from  the  suspicion  of  ever  having 
been  cleansed,  we  descended  into  these  lower  regions.  It  was 
a  circular  hall,  filled  with  small  tables,  at  which  m(%n  and  wo- 
men were  sitting,  the  one  smoking,  and  both  drinking  from  the 
same  tall  glass  of  "  lager,"  Bavarian  or  the  ordinary  German 
beer.  At  one  side  was  raised  a  platform,  with  a  green  curtain 
screen  to  hide  the  dressing  room,  from  which  some  four  or  five 
girls  came  out  and  seated  themselves.  They  were  good  l<K)king, 


84 


.A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


well  favored  dam?els,  and  tlie  pretentions  of  one  of  them  to 
beauty  were  sufficiently  well  founded  to  receive  attention.  A 
pianoforte  solo,  annoan.ce(  fthe  commencement  of  the  evenins's 
second  part  entertainment.  The  girls,  in  turn,  sang  a  song  not 
of  the  most  elevated  sentiment,  or  some  of  their  national 
ballads,  with  a  quality  of  voice  and  tone  somewhat  prepossess- 
ing, and,  at  least  I  fear,  of  a  higher  standard  than  their  strict 
appreciation  of  the  value  of  a  reputation  above  suspicion. 
Other  girls  ajid  boys  were  flitting  about  in  the  dim  outline, 
with  waiters  and  flagons  of  the  popular  beverage,  administer- 
ing to  the  v»'ants  of  customers  as  expressed,  not  in  the  most  * 
select  terms  of  etiquette  or  elegance  of  diction.  Our  visages 
were  soon  detected  within  this  thick  wrapt  veil  of  obscurity,  and 
tp  prevent  an  unwelcome  distinction,  beer  was  ordered.  As  I 
paid  the  small  cost  in  English  pennies,  it  was  soon  apparent 
that  we  were  especial  objects  of  regard,  not  only  by  the  waiting 
damsels  upon  the  floor,  but  to  those  upon  the  platform.  So 
recently  having  escaped  the  casualty  of  coffee  and  pistols,  we 
beat  a  qu'ck  retreat,  as  the  prospects  for  beer  and  pistols  be- 
came distinctly  appreciable,  in  the  jealous  shrugs  and  glances 
of  the  previously  fa'vored  swains.  Our  presence  added  dark- 
ness to  the  impending  cloud.  An  inhalation  of  fresh  air  and  a 
bright  starlight  sky  restored  us  to  locomotion  and  life.  Although 
a  veteran  of  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  century  in  the'  fire  de- 
partment ;  beginning  from  a  torcli  runner,  and  graduating  with 
the  highest  honors  and  commissions  of  the  department ;  sufFo- 
'OatJid  time  and  again  by  the  smoke  of  burning  lumber,  cotton 
waste,  hay,  and  the  contents  of  stores,  stables,  and  dwellings,  I 
never  before  felt  what  smoke  was,  or  of  how  great  density,  as 
when  the  |)«re  fresh  air  began  its  coursings  through  nature's 
almost  obliterated  functions.  The  fragrance  of  that  evening's 
visit  was  a  "  tell-tale,"  not  only  on  our  return  home,  but  for 
days  and  weeks  afterwards  ;  and  a  great  mistake  we  made,  in 
not  preserving  a  remnant  of  that  wardrobe,  as  an  annihilator 
of  motis,  and  as  a  proof  of  no  ordinary  curiosity  in  our  compo- 


GENUINE  "  LAGER  BEER." 


85 


sitioii.  This  beer  drinking  continues  for  hours,  night  after 
night ;  and  if  I  were  to  express  my  honest  convictions  of  the 
materiality  of  a  German's  humanity,  or  of  his  articles  of 
luxury,  or  diet,  I  should  without  hesitation  say  it  was  beer 
and  tobacco.  I  must  qualify  this  last  sentence.  "  Young 
America  "  of  ten  years  and  upwft-ds,  would  make  a  German 
blush,  in  the  use  of  this  narcotic,  if  any  important  result  was 
pending.  Boys  in  round-abouts  and  short  jackets  offend  the 
the  sight  and  sense  of  maturer  years  by  the  offensive  habit  of 
smoking,  mutilating  life's  best  energies  with  the  pipe  or  cigar. 
Where  are  your  parents,  boys  ? 

If  I  have  ever  doubted  the  facility  by  which  an  American 
is  fiumbugged,  Barnum's  career  would  effectually  settle  the 
point.  But  even  his  curious  success  is  cast  in  the  shade  by 
.that  which  has  attended  the  establishment  of  the  countless 
"  lager  beer  saloons,"  in  every  hamlet,  town,  and  city  of  New 
England.  "Lager  beer"  means  stored  beer.  It  is  made  in 
J^^ember ;  stored  in  cellars  with  great  care  ;  never  tapped 
for  use  until  the  following  May  ;  six  months  age  at  least,  is 
considered  indispensable  for  its  perfecting.  But  in  the  Ameri- 
can depots  for  its  sale,  it  is  brev,^ed,  drawn  into  kegs  and  drank, 
as  fast  as  the  necessary  manipulations  can  be  passed  through. 
Genuine  "  lager  beer  "  is  a  mild  tonic,  free  from  any  alcholic 
qualities,  and  is  considered  as  a  specific  for  cases  of  debility, 
from  sickness,  &c.  But  the  lager  beer  as  Americanized 
would,  I  suspect,  receive  but  few  orders  from  a  medical  adviser. 
It,  however,  answers  as  a  most  excellent  subterfuge  by  which 
liquors  of  every  kind  can  be  procured.  The  wonder  is,  in  the 
present  apathetic  indifference  of  tlie  temperance  friends  and 
prt)fessors,  that  any  shield  or  disguise  is  adopted  in  the  prose- 
cution of  a  traffic  that  has  filled  the  records  of  time  with  its 
corrupting,  devastating,  . soul-destroying  influences;  and  the 
consequences  of  which,  its  followers  must  meet  and  answer 
whe^ humanity's  impress  of  God's  image  will  be  regarded; 
where  the  tears  of  bitter  anguish  of  the  heart-broken  wife  and 
8 


86 


A  summer's    travel  in  EUROPE. 


mother  ;  the  supplications  of  innocence,  for  pity  and  relief  from 
starvation,  and  cruelty  worse  than  death ;  where  the  mind  in- 
tended by  its  Creator,  for  the  comprehension  of  the  mysteries 
of  Deity,  has  been  debased  to  the  realities  of  a  brute's  exist- 
ence, will  all  demand  justice.  The  poor  unfortunate  victim 
of  an  unconquerable  appeffte  should  have  our  outstretched 
hand  for  sympathy  and  succor.  The  tempter  of  that  appetite, — 
he,  who  for  paltry  gain,  makes  a  covenant  with  the  worst 

passions  of  humanity,  deserves  our  

The  costumes  one  meets  with  in  the  streets  of  Hamburg  are 
as  peculiar  as  any  it  has  been  my  good  fortune  to  see.  It  is 
the  custom,  with  hardly  an  exception,  for  the  nursery  maids 
and  those  of  a  similar  position  in  society,  on  the  continent,  to 
wear  neat  white  caps  instead  of  bonnets  ;  this  latter,  in  fact, 
mav  be  said  to  indicate  the  wearer's  position  in  society.  The 
servant  girls,  in  this  city,  all  carry  a  light,  figured  scarlet  shawl, 
gracefully  thrown  over  the  arm,  for  the  purpose  of  concealing 
the  contents  of  the  small  basket  or  package  they  are  carr}4l|. 
The  pea-jmt  girls,  as  they  come  to  market  with  fruits,  flowers 
and  vegetables,  excite  particular  attention,  with  their  wide^  flat, 
round,  basket-shaped  bonnets  on  the  top  of  the  head ;  a  large 
square  bow-knot  of  wide  black  cambric  or  ribbon,  the  bows 
projecting  some  five  or  six  inches  on  each  side  of  the  hair,  and 
long  streamers  down  the  back ;  a  close  fitting  slashed  waist- 
jacket  without  sleeves ;  worsted  crimson  skirts,  reaching  half 
way  to  the  ancle,  developing  well  formed  limbs,  and  fitted  with 
symmetrical  rotundity  at  the  waist ;  thick  stockings  of  black, 
blue  or  brown  yarn,  winter  and  summer,  with  strong  high-heeled 
shoes.  The  carriage  of  their  person  is  very  erect",  and  the 
fio-ure  well  matured.  If  our  American  belles  should  smile  at 
this  description,  I  think  "  the  laugh  would  be  on  the  other  side," 
if  these  peasant  girls  were  to  see  the  trailing  of  silks  and 
skirts,  through  mud  and  dust,  of  a  fashionably  dressed  lady  of 
Broadway,  or  the  streets  and  thoroughfares  of  other^ities 
nearer  home.    Whicli  of  these  representatives  of  the  gentler 


A  MODERN  "  BABEL." 


87 


sex  shall  claim  approval  for  a  sensitive,  appreciative  sense  of 
cleanliness  or  propriety  ?  At  funerals,  the  friends  of  the  de- 
ceased do  not  attend  in  procession.  "  Hired  mourners,  dressed 
jn  blac^  with  plaited  ruffs  round  their  necks,  curled  and  pow- 
dered wigs,  short  Spanish  cloaks  and  swords,"  are  employed 
as  substitutes.  The  same  persons,  whose  number  is  limited 
to  sixteen,  attend  marriage  festivals,  and  form  also  a  body- 
guard to  the  magistrates.  The  situations  were  formerly  pur- 
chased at  a  high  price,  in  consideration  of  the  perquisites  and 
fees  attached  to  them.  Upon  the  death  of  a  burgomaster,  or 
other  personage  of  importance  in  the  town,  the  town  trumpe- 
ter, a  civil  otlicer,  is  set  to  blow  a  dirge  from  one  of  the  stee- 
ples." A  clerical  personage,  accompanied  by  four  or  five  boys 
of  the  ages  of  ten  or  twelve,  occasionally  stopped  and  chanted, 
before  the  residences  of  (as  I  suppose)  persons  of  distinction. 
Wlietlier  it  was  a  religious  ordinance  they  were  observing,  or 
an  exuberance  of  harmony  in  returning  from  church  or 
school,  I  do  know. 

■  The  churSParchitecture  is  not  remarkable  or  attractive.  One 
of  the  spires  is  four  hundred  and  fifty-six  feet  in  height,  and  is 
the  loftiest  of  any  church  in  Europe.  An  interesting  sight  is 
the  "  hour  of  change  "  (one,  P.  M.)  at  the  "  Bourse  "  (Ex- 
change.) It  is  a  fine  large  structure,  well  adapted  to  its  pur- 
pose, containing  reading  rooms,  ofiices,  &c.,  for  the  Board  of 
Trade  and  Chamber  of  Commerce.  Strangers  are  admitted 
to  these  privileges,  upon  introduction  by  a  member.  At  one 
o'clock,  the  merchants  crowd  the  floor  of  the  great  hall ;  and 
as  you  look  from  the  galleries,  a  black,  dense  mass  of  men 
cover  the  pavement,  and  such  a  "confusion  worse  confounded'' 
of  voices  rises  to  your  hearing,  as  you  may  never  hear  again.  Not 
a  word  can  you  detect,  but  a  mass  of  murmuring,  mumbling 
sjunds,  M'hich  renders  the  confusion  at  Babel  very  compre- 
hensible, satisfactorily  accounting  for  the  termination  of  the 
building  of  that  structure.  The  extent  of  these  commercial 
transactions  may  be  estimated  by  tiie  imports  into  Hamburg  in 


88  A  summer's  travel  in  ^:urope. 

• 

1857,  amounting  to  nearly  700,0.00,000  marH^banco,  (equal  to 
nearly  38  cents  each,)  and  tlic  exports  in  1856  to  613,433,730. 
"  The  articles  of  import  and  export  are  princi[)ally  cotton, 
wool,  woolen  and  wor.ried  stuffs,  yarn,  silk,  hides,  h^|lware, 
iron,  coffee,  sugar,  wine,  rum,  tobacco,  indigo,  dyewoods,  tea, 
pepper  and  coals.  The  latter  is  excepted  from  the  exports, 
Hamburg  being  a  distributing  centre  in  its  use."  The  manu- 
facturing industi-y  is  directed  to  ship  building,  calico  printing, 
distilling,  sugar  refining,  manufactories  of'canvas  for  shipping, 
ropes,  leather,  cigars,  soaps,  &c.  There  are  publishing  houses 
of  much  celebrity,  banking  houses,  several  newspapers  and 
journals.  The  cemetery  is  not  particularly  attractive.  It 
struck  us  very  singularly,  to  observe  recorded  upon  the 
monumental  stones  and  tablets,  the  duration  of  the  lease  of 
the  lot  upon  which  the  interments  were  made.  Some  for  a 
longer,  and  others  less  period  of  time.  But  few  were  in  per- 
petuity. At  the  expiration  of  these  leases,  (if  not  renewed,) 
the  remains  are  exhumed  and  deposited  with  mmjk  lime  in  a 
common  receptacle.  The  lots  thus  cleared  beoIRe  subject  to 
a  new  lease  to  new  parties.  This  arrangement  a23peared 
almost  sacrilegious  to  us,  in  the  respect  with  which  we  have 
been  taught,  by  a  mother's  sorrowing  love,  for  the  lamented 
dead.  To  others  less  sensitive,  and  to  whom  their  last  resting 
place  is  a  matter  of  almost  reckless  indifference,  if  not  aversion 
it  may  appear  practical  and  suggestive.  The  markets  are  well 
supplied  with  meats,  vegetables  and  fruits.  A  long  row  of 
common,  cross-legged  tables  in  the  middle  of  one  of  the 
streets,  covered  with  odds  and  ends  of  iron  scraps,  calicoes, 
glass  ware,  toys,  stockings,  &c.,  tended  by  men  and  women, 
appeared  to  be  the  last  remnants  of  a  peasant's  fair.  The 
environs  of  the  city  around  the  "  Grosser  Alster  "  are  beautiful. 
New  Villas  of  stone,  covered  with  a  concrete  of  sand  and  lime, 
of  prepossessing  architectural  j^r^ortions  and  style,  with 
flower  gardens  of  taste  and  variety,  were  occupied  and  being 
built.    Swans  in  large  num-bers  were  adding  the  "poetry  of 


GERMAN  HAIR-DRESSERS. 


89 


motion  to  tlie  scene,"  and  a  delegation  from  whose  homes  were 
placed  in  the  .Central  Park  of  New  York,  by  the  courtesy  of 
friends.  These  fowls  are  reared  as  the  recipients  of  a  bequest 
left  by  a  lady  of  Hamburg  for  that  purpose.  A  visit  was 
made  to  a  professor  of  the  "  tonsorial  art,"  whose  clippings 
from  the  heads  of  my  juveniles  revealed  no  phrenological 
malformations,  as  they  left  his  chair,  literally  shorn,  if  not 
shaven  ;  and  whose  manipulations  over  my  own  cranium  may 
have  developed  that  bump  of  audacity  and  presumption  from 
which  the  community  have  been  spared  heretofore.  The 
Germans  invariably  cut  the  hair  short  to  the  head, — whether 
to  allow  the  internal  heat  of  their  stimulants  of  beer  and 
tobacco  to  pass  off  more  readily,  or  as  an  avoidance  of  the 
imperative  duties  of  the  toilet,  which  their  total  aWltinence 
from  the  use  of  a  tooth  brush,  0  plainly  indicates,  I  cannot  say. 
Beauty  will  lose  its  charms  in  my  eyes,  in  Germany,  unless  a 
reformation,  in  this  respect,  is  almost  universally  instituted. 
Ruby  lips  and  bewitching  smiles  receive  a  terrible  discount  in 
their  disclosures. 


8* 


XIII. 


GERMAN  PECULIARITIES. 

Notwithstanding  the  indiffereSUce  of  the  Germans  in  their 
appreciative  habits  of  personal  attention  to  the  details  of  the 
toilet,  they  are  exceedingly  courteous  in  their  greetings  and 
intercourse,  one  with  another.  The  hat  is  invariably  removed 
from  the  head  of  the  peasant,  as  well  as  the  courtier,  in  the 
most  ordinary  salutations.  And  in  the  more  informal  recogni- 
tions by  friends,  after  an  absence  or  separation,  it  is  customary 
to  exchange  those  "  impressions  "  which,  with  us,  are  valued 
only  as  made  by  the  gentler  sex.  It  is  with  these  foreigners, 
a'strict  fulfillment  of  the  Scripture  injunction,  "  first  on  one 
cheek,  then  the  other."  The  universal  stiff  moustache  and 
heavy  beard  do  not  decrease  the  natural  repulsiveness  with 
which  we  should  regard  this  custom  ;  being  another  illustra- 
tion of  the  truthfulness  of  the  maxim,  of  there  being  but  "  one 
step  from  the  sublime  to  the  ridiculous."  The  language  is 
expressive  of  the  character  of  the  Germans.  There  is  a 
solidity  (if  I  may  so  speak)  about  it,  which  i^j^^iaracteristic 
of  the  people.  In  strong  contrast  with  the  vivacity  of  the 
French,  it  is  peculiarly  adapted  to  that  solid  harmony  so 
prominently  the  feature  of  their  music.  The  symphonies  of 
Beethoven,  the  compositions  of  Handel,  Haydn,  Mendelssohn 


AN  IDEALITY  REALIZED. 


91 


and  others,  require,  at  least,  a  partial  knowledge  of  the  people, 
manners,  customs  and  language  where  they  were  produced,  to 
be  appreciated.  However  more  agreeable,  or  attractive,  the 
less  classic  style  of  music  of  other  countries  may  be,  the  true, 
connoisseur  cannot  hesitate  to  give  to  the  musical  authors  of 
Germany  the  first  rank,- in  justification  of  their  claims  or  pre- 
tensions to  an  unrivalled  pre-eminence.  Hamburg  realized, 
in  the  older  parts  of  the  citp;,  ray  boyhood's  ideality  of  its 
appearance.  The  name,  I  think,  impresses  the  idea  of  what 
we  conceive  to  be  the  peculiarities  of  foreign  cities.  In 
physiognomy,  there  are  m^ny  who  pretend  to  an  infallibility  in 
judgment  of  the  character  and  propensities  of  individuals 
from  the  countenance  or  features.  How  far  this  principle  may 
apply  to  the  names  of  cities  or  places,  is  a  question.  But  in 
my  earlier  efforts  for  the  acquisition  of  geography,  this  city, 
with  a  few  others,  had  arrested  my  attention,  and  suggested  the 
hope  that  fortune  might  favor  my  seeing  it.  This  has  been 
done.  Many  w^ords  might  be  added  ;  many  a  reference  to  the 
people  ;  a  more  detailed  account  of  manners  and  customs, 
costumes  and  character  could  be  appended.  The  fear  of 
prolixity  and  tediousness  deters  me ;  and  with  a  simple  refer- 
ence to  the  "  Vierlander,"  (the  flower-girls,)  whom  I  fear  I 
have  most  unaccountably  forgotten,  notw^ithstanding  their 
prettiness  and  bewitchery,  I  shall  finish  my  sojourn  in  Hamburg 
sincerely  hoping  the  eyes  of  others  may  be  gratified  in  * 
seeing  it. 

Among  the  passengers  by  the  "  Moselle  "  to  Hamburg,  was 
a  gentleman  from  Copenhagen,  who  for  six  months  of  the  year 
transacts  business  in  the  West  Indies,  returning  to  Denmark 
for  the  summer  months.  Ascertaining  our  nationality,  and 
knowing  the  cosmopolitan  propensities  of  Americans,  he  very 
kindly  suggested  an  excursion  of  seventeen  hours  from  Ham- 
burg to  Copenhagen.  At  dinner,  Tuesday,  August  9th,  this 
circumstance  was  mentioned,  and  one  half  hour  thereafter  we 
were,  three  of  us,  in  a  cab,  rushing  for  the  cars  from  Altona  to 


92 


A  sxJmmer's  Travel  m  EtHOPE. 


Kiel.  The  former  place  you  will  remember  is  the  Danish 
border  town  joining  Hamburg.  The  inland  division  of  the  two 
places  is  a  large  open  field.  The  quays  and  water  front  are,  I 
believe,  continuous.  There  is  also  a  wide  ditch  to  be  used  in 
.  cases  of  invasion.  The  station  house  is  a  large  commodious 
building,  and  from  jts  elevated  position^  commands  a  fine  view, 
of  the  river  Elbe  and  surrounding  country.  The  regulations 
for  luggage,  at  all  foreign  railways,  are  very  stringent.  Your 
first  duty  is  to  purchase  tickets  for  the  cars.  The  office  win- 
dow in  the  large  hall  of  the  station  at  Altona,  is  upon  the 
right  as  you  enter,  and  a  curvilineai^-aiiing,  admitting  persons 
only  in  single  file,  passes  to  it.  The  positive  rule .  of  the 
barbers  shop,  not  only  in  cities,  but  of  "  Towns,''  is  adhered 
to,  "  first  come,  first  served."  You  may  have  a  wife  and  a 
John  Rogers  family  to  arrange  for  ;  the  first  bell  may  have 
rung ;  or  you  may  have  a  speechless  jcompanion  (as  mine  had,) 
who  cannot  speak  a  word  escept  his  mother  English,  and 
rendered  ten  times  more  irritable  because  of  his  stupidity ; 
forty  packages  or  less  of  traps,  trunks,  &c ,  may  be  passing 
from  the  cab  to  the  luggage  room,  with  your  initials  upon 
them,  going  you  know  not  where ;  fat  men  and  spare  women, 
or  vice  versa,  crowd  you,  front  and  behind,  betraying  most 
unmistakable  symptoms  of  having  dlYied  from  a  varied  bill  of 
fare,  as  your  olfactories  are  in  contact  with  their  exhalations ; 
ithe  far-famed  agricultural  production  of"'  Old  Bristol  "  strongly 
ipredoroinating ;  musty  pipes,  wretched  tobacco  smoke,  may  be 
your  unavoidable  surroundings  ;  but  your  die  is  east,  and  you 
move  inch  by  inch  to  the  square  opening,  a  wiser  but  not  I 
\fear  a  better  man.  The  tickets  are  bought.  Now  for  your  lug- 
gage !  This  is  all  to  be  passed  through  a  larger  window,  labelled 
.and  numbered  to  correspond  with  your  ticket.  Here  is  another 
jam.  And  what  with  porters  dropping  their  heels,  or  the 
■  corners  of  heavy  trunks  upon  your  feet ;  getting  entangled  in 
crinolines,  forever  a  nuisance  ;  iwhiQA  up  with  a  string  from  a 
ladies  poodle  dog  about  your  legs,  begging  his  mistress'  pardon 


AN  ILL   REQUITED  COURTESY. 


93 


but  kicking  him  when  you  can  ;  old  women  with  baskets  and 
bundles ;  younger  ones  with  all  the  appliances  of  their  skill 
and  intentions  against  the  equanimity  of  our  sex,  stowed  away 
in  bags  and  bandboxes ;  a  confused  notion  of  your  identity, 
you  find  your  patience  exhausted,  good  humor  annihilated,  and 
a  charitable  consignment  to  perpetual  oblivion,  of  the  race  of 
humanity  generally.  At  last  the  Rubicon  is  passed,  as  you  are 
admitted  (by  showing  your  luggage  checks  and  tickets)  to  the 
interior  of  the  station,  where  the  cars  are  waiti.ig.  The 
.  universal  habit  of  smoking  I'equires  provisions  for  its  graiiiica- 
tion,  even  in  the  hurried  railway  traveh  Every  train  of  cars 
has  a  certain  number  of  smoking  coupes,"  as  they  are 
termed.  A  hurry  from  the  dinner  table  had  prevented  our 
"  Havana's "  annihilation,  and  hence  our  anxious  seat  was 
for  one  in  the  "  coupes."  Five  Germans  and  we  three  "  filled 
the  car.  With  a  right  good  will  w^  puffed  away  !  One  of  our 
fellow  travellers  had  lost  the  key  of  his  carpet  bag,  in  which 
he  had  some  "  superior  specimens."  Alas,  what  was  to  be 
done  !  I  have  always  in  my  pocket,  when  travelling,  a  number 
of  small  tools  in  a  single  frame,  such  as  would  justify  my  arrest 
as  a  suspicious  character.  With  one  of  these  the  lock  was 
.picked.  Never  in  all  my  experience  was  a  little  courtesy  more 
dearly  paid  for.  The  Germans  have  a  religious  horror,  I 
believe,  of  a  draught  of  air.  No  matter  what  the  atmosphere 
is,  outside  or  in,  they  believe  a  current  of  air  to  be  the  one 
thing  awful !  As  night  approacj^ed,  we  were  made  sensible  of 
their  ability  to  stand  smoke,  if  not  fire.  "  We  three,"  one 
after  another,  all  gave  in.  Nausea,  sick  headache,  drowsiness 
and  faintness,  abstracted  us  from  all  appreciative  contact  with 
every  thing  material  but  that  tobacco  smoke  !  It  was  of  no 
use.  They  were  solicited,  entreated,  persuaded,  threatened  by 
imploring  looks  and  beseeching  words,  to  stop  smoking  or  open 
the  windows.  But  survive  if  we  could,  w^e  must  wait  with 
patience  till  deliverance  came  as  we  arrived  at  Kiel,  three  and 
a  half  hours'  ride  from  Altona.    The  surface  of  tlie  countjy  is 


94 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


verj  flat,  with  light  soil,  destitute  nearly  of  tree?,  but  very 
prolific  in  some  places  in  the  supply  of  peat.  There  is  evidently 
a  fresh  agricultural  impulse  given  in  this  part  of  the  Duchy  of 
Holstein,  by  the  construction  of  the  railway.  The  lands  are 
being  reclaimed  from  almost  barrenness  ;  and  the  quarrying 
of  the  large  granite  boulders,  so  numerous  in  Holstein,  is 
becoming  a  source  of  merchandise  and  profit  for  building 
purposes  in  Hambui-g.  Many  years  since,  in  Aix-la-Chapelle, 
we  were  interested  in  the  storks  at  the  market  place,  which 
are  allowed  and  unmolested,  from*a  superstitious  regard.  From 
between  AUona  and  Kiel  they  must  have  come,  judging  from 
their  relatives,  the  Cranes.  They  are  very  numerous.  Their, 
huge  nests,  adhering  to  the  gables  of  the  farm  houses  and  barns? 
could  not  have  been  found  in  the  architect's  recommendation 
or  fancy,  as  an  appendage  of  ornament  or  utility. 

The  town  of  Kiel  is  verjf  prettily  situated  upon  a  bay  from 
the  Baltic  Sea.  It  has'a  fair  harborage,  with  good  depth  of 
water  and  is  completely  land-locked,  except  at  its  entrance.  In 
summer  time  it  is  becoming  a  favorite  v/atering  place  for  the 
resort  of  fashion  and  military  personages.  The  beautiful 
wooded  banks  and  hills  of  the  bay  offering  the  necessary  in- 
ducements for  pic-nicks,  tea  parties,  &c.  We  found  two 
steamers  ready  for  our  embarkation  ;  the  one  connecting  with 
the  railway  from  Korsor  to  Copenhagen,  the  other,  for  more 
of  a  sea  voyage  through  the  Baltic  to  Copenhagen.  Our 
tickets  were  for  the  sea  rout(^;  and  frequently  have  we  con- 
giatulated  ourselves  upon  embarking  upon  the  screw  steamer 
Princess,"  with  her  courteous  and  intelligent  Captain  Coke. 
He  spoke  English  very  fluently,  ai)d  finding  '-we  three  "  a 
stray  party  of  Americans,  his  kind  attention  to  our  questions 
and  desire  for  information,  is  most  gi-atefully  remembered.  The 
tea  table«bi'Ought  together  our  fellow  passengers,  without  a 
single  lady  among  them,  as  I  now  remember.  The  five  merci- 
less individuals  of  our  railway  troubles  had  most  fortunately 
taken  the  otlier  route  ;  being  apprehensive,  I  suppose,  of  the 


THOUGHTS  OF  "HOMe"  AND — 


95 


fulfillment  of  our  sincere  wishes  for  their  saa-sickness  and 
discomfort,  which,  under  no  circumstancesif^ould  have  equalled 
our  own,  under  the  infliction  of  their  total  depravity  in  the 
courtesies  of  a  smoking  car.  A  cup  of  good  'souchong,"  with 
toast  and  sweet  butter,  restored  our  equilibrium.  The  witching- 
hours  of  twilight  found  us  on  deck,  luxuriating  in  the  fresh 
tonic  air  of  the  sea,  with  one  of  the  mildest  summer's  eve,  as 
starlight  and  bright  against  the  blue  canopy  of  the  sky,  as  are 
the  eyes  and  the  smiles  of  those  I  am  thinking  of  now.  The 
cabin  arrangements  for  sleepiiig  were  similar  to  those  of  the 
"  Moselle."  There  vv-ere  three  state  rooms,  two  of  two  berths, 
and  One  with  a  lounge  in  addition.  The  latter,  the  steward 
gave  us  three  ;"  and  weary  with  our  day'«  work  and  travel, 
we  were  scon  as  unconscious  of  the  danger  of  the  sea,"  as 
we  were  grateful  in  the  morning  for  that  watchful  care  and 
protection  which  has  so  often  guided  and  preserved  us  in  our 
many  "  Rambles  from  Home."  In  passing  from  the  bay  of 
Kiel  to  the  Baltic  in  the  evening,  the  only  objects  of  interest 
were  the  lights  upon  the  coast  of  Schleswig,  and  the  island  of 
Femern  on  the  right.  The  larger  islands  of  Laland,  Falster  and 
Moen,  are  upon  the  left.  The  high  chalky  cliffs  of  the  latter, 
remind  you  of  those  of  Dover,  and  make  a  shudder  of  the 
nerves  as  you  fancy  the  con^ct  of  a  ship  against  its  stern 
rocks,  driven  with  the  uncontrollable  impetuosity  of  a  gale  at 
sea. 

A  friend  and  acquaintance  has  given  an  account  of  this 
same  route,  from  Hamburg  via  Kiel  to  Copenhagen  and 
Helsingborg,  in  Sweden,  as  published  in  the  "  Transactions  of 
E.  I.  Society  for  the  Encouragement  of  Domestic  Industry," 
for  1859,  (see  on  page  82.)  The  same  flat  appearance  is  there 
described  of  the  coast  of  Sweden,  as  observable  in  the  surface 
of  the  island  of  Zealand,  (Sjeland,)  upon  which  Copenhagen 
is  built.  At  a  distance  of  twenty  English  miles,  in  a  clear 
atmosphere,  the  spires  of  the  city  churches  may  be  seen  from 
tlfe  sea.    There  are  many  light  houses  and  light  ships  along 


06 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


the  coast,  which,  from  tlie  nature  of  the  country,  must  be  very- 
shoal.  The  islancl^f  Salthohn  upon  the  right,  and  Amak  on 
the  left  are  passed,  before  reaching  the  strongly  fortified  battery 
of  Trekoner,  as  you  enter  the  harbor  of  Copenhagen.  There 
were  several  large  vessels  of  war  lying  in  ordinary,  in  the 
naval  basin  inside.  Many  of  them  I  should  suppose  worthless, 
and  all,  appai'ently,  out  of  commission  for  a  long  time.  The 
harl)or  is  well  protected,  and  extends  for  a  mile  from  the  sea 
into  the  city.  Steamers  of  ordinary  size  and  English  models  ; 
ships  and  other  vessels  of  various  forms  and  nationalities,  were 
passing  in  and  out,  or  at  anchor  in  the  port.  The  formalities 
of  a  custom  house  examination  of  luggage  and  passports  by 
the  police  were  soon  over.  Porter  boys  were  employed  for 
the  transportation  of  our  valises,  and  M'ith  anticipations  of  the 
strange  and  wonderful,  our  first  promenade  was  taken  in  Den- 
mark. The  "  Hotel  Royale,"  to  which  we  were  recommended, 
(and  in  wdiich  recommendation  "  we  three  "  will  cordially  join,) 
was  a  mile  distant  from  the  landing  of  the  steamer.  Th^re 
w^ere  "  droskies,"  (heavy  four  wheeled  barouches  for  two  per- 
sons, drawn  by  one  horse,)  but  our  sympathies  for  the  poor 
quadrupeds,  and  the  questionable  ability  of  their  bony  frames 
to  expedite  our  movements,  induced  us  to  travel  on  foot.  The 
general  appearance  of  the  city  we  traversed  in  going  to  the  hotel, 
was  that  of  a  neat,  substantial,  healthy,  mercantile,  prosperous 
place.  But  we  were  disappointed  in  the  absence  of  those 
impressions  of  its  peculiarities  and  strangeness  which  one 
mif^'ht  gather  from  its  name.  There  were  1*0  strong  contrasts 
of  either  building  or  people,  which  our  fmcy  had  sketched  j 
and  if  we  had  been  told  we  were  for  the  first  time 
in  some  of  the  older  seaport  towns  of  the  Southern  States* 
we  should  not  have  been  as  surprised  as  to  find  so  little 
that  appeared  strange  here.  Perhaps  the  familiarity  with 
other  cities  upon  the  continent  had  been  forgotten  by  us  in  our 
imaginings  of  this.  If  we  were  fresh  from  "  Down  East,"  or 
any  place  skilled  in  Yankee  whitlings,  our  eyes  and  mouths«)f 


aUR  "  COMMISSIONAIRE." 


97 


wonder  would  have  been  more  widely  extended.  Our  entrance 
to  the  city  was  through  the  newer  part?:,  and  our  disappoint- 
ment at  its  appearance  was  somewhat  relieved  a^ip^e  came  to 
the  hotel, — separated  by  a  canal  from  the  small  island  upon 
which  the  old  Christianborg  Palace  is  built.  The  first  object 
of  ab>orbing  interest  was  the  provision  for  the  "  inner  man," 
and  the  summons  to  the  dining  hall,  was  the  most  agreeable 
sound  that  reached  us  in  the  first  moments  of  our  new  exist- 
ence. A  "  commissionaire  "  (or  guide  of  the  place)  was  sent 
for  while  we  were  at  dinner.  Joseph  Alyer,  an  intelligent  and 
courteous  person,  answered  the  summons  and  our  most 
inquisitive  purposes.  If  the  repeating  of  his  name  shall  be 
the  means  of  others  availing  themselves  of  his  valuable  services, 
the  object  in  mentioning  it  will  have  been  accomplished. 

Dinner  over,  and  a  two  horse  "  droski "  from  the  hotel, 
with  Joseph  for  our  guide  and  counsellor,  "  we  three  "  com-, 
menced  doing  up  Copenhagen  in  true  Yankee  style  and 
intensity. «  Our  drive  was  for  the  naval  cemetery,  a  short 
distance  beyond  the  eastern  gate.  I  should  have  earlier 
said  the  city  was  enclosed  by  strongly  fortified  walls, 
having  four  gates  for  ingress  and  egress.  These  ramparts  are 
very  agreeably  appropriated  for  a  promenaded  And,  although 
for  many  years,  it  has  been  a  time  of  "  peace  and  prosperity 
within  its  walls,"  yet  doubtless  there  have  been,  upon  them 
many  severe  conflicts  between  the  rallyings  of  the  lordli- 
ness "  of  manhood  and  the  "  soft  syren  voice  of  the 
charmer,"  attempting  to  bring  to  subjection  and  loyalty  the 
proud  boaster  of  his  imperviousness  to  all  assaults  save  that 
of  "  woman's  artillery."  In -this  cemetery,  (more  particularly 
appropriated  for  the  burial  of  the  heroes  of  the  past,  and  the 
officers  of  the  present  navy,)  stands  a  tall  Norwegian  marble 
obelisk,  to  commemorate  the  "  noble  deeds  of  daring "  with 
which  the  desperate  attack  of  the  English  fleet,  under  the 
command  of  Sir  Hyde  Parker  and  Lord  Nelson,  in  1801,  was 
resisted,  but  unsuccessfully.     Denmark    had  at  this  time 


98 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


formed  an  alliance  a^jrainst  Endand.  But  the  destruction  of 
her  navy,  then  in  port,  severed  the  compact  and  annihilated  her 
opposition.  •The  price  of  that  conquest  was  the  commingling 
of  the  life  blood  of  Danes  and  Britons, .  whose  requiem  is 
ever  sung,  as  the  winds  mournfully  chant  the  dirges  of  nature's 
melody  through  the  branches  of  the  oaks  and  pines,  bending 
with  the  drapery  of  their  dark  green  foliage  over  the  silent 
dead.  And  although  strangers  as  we  were,  yet  the  current  of 
our  sensations  were  in  unison  with  the  place  and  memorial, 
before  which,  with  uncovered  heads,  we  stood. 


XIV. 


COPENHAGEN. 


A  delightful  ride  outside  the  fortifications,  carried  us  through 
the  new  and  flourishing  suburbs  of  the  city,  on  the  north. 
There  was  a  freshness  in  the  streets  and  buildings  in  progress 
of  erection  and  completed,  with  the  evidence  of  industry  and 
thrift  4P  the  people,  that  made  the  humble  residence  of  our 
guide,  Joseph,  appear  as  cheerful  as  the  good  natured  linea- 
ments^ of  his  face.  Entering  the  city  again  at  the  West  gate, 
we  drove  to  the  Museum  of  Natural  History,  on  the  "  Storm 
Gade  "  (street.)  This  collection  is  very  rich  and  extensive. 
It  contains  a  very  large  variety  of  shells  and  minerals ;  and  a 
fine  zoological  department,  including  among  others,  speci- 
mens of  insects  from  Africa,  South  America  and  the  East 
Indies ;  birds  from  Europe  and  America ;  fish,  reptiles,  and 
crocodiles,  stuffed  and  other  ways  preservtid,  of  an  endless 
variety.  Although  the  apartment  of  comparative  anatomy 
has  been  recently  instituted,  it  has  between  two  and  three 
hundred  skeletons  and  anatomical  fragments,  not  the  least 
interesting  of  which,  were  the  different  formations  of  the  head 
of  a- sea  horse,  from  its  earliest  existence  to  the  full  develop- 
ment. The  department  of  mineralogy  is  conspicuous  from  the 
mass  of  Konigsberg  silver,  measuring  six  feet  long  by  twg 


100 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


wide,  and  eight  inches  in  thickness  ;  and  also  bj  the  specimens 
of  aniber,  rock-ciystal,  meteoric  stones  and  iron  from  Siberia* 
The  Museum  is  open,  (admission  free,)  Sundays  and  Wednes- 
days, from  10  A.  M.,  to  2  P.  M.  A  return  to  the  hotel,  at  an 
early  hour,  (6  P.  M.,)  was  not  without  reference  to  the  cup 
of  refreshing  beverage  and  its  usual  accompaniments.  At 
Joseph's  suggestions,  for  the  evening's  pastime,  we  drove  to 
the  "Alhambra,"  one  of  the  two  public  places  for  amusement 
with  which  the  Danes  are  wise  in  "  driving  dull  care  away." 
Of  all  the  resources  and  variety  comprehended  in  any  one 
arrangement  for  mirthfulness  and  pleasure,  this  was  the  most 
complete,  in  its  detail  and  success,  of  any  I  have  yet  witnessed. 
The  entrance  way  was  through  an  iron  turnstile,  so  constructed 
as  at  each  turn  to  indicate  the  number  of  visitors  ;  preventing  all 
possibility  of  confusion,  (except,  perhaps,  to  the  wearers  of 
the  ever  annoying  crinoline,)  admitting  but  one  person  at  a 
time.  Passing  through,  after  paying  your  entrance  fee,  three 
marks,  (about  25  cents,)  you  find  yourself  surrounded  by  the 
ideahties,  as  it  were,  of  fairy  land.  Bright,  sparkling^ts  of 
gas  from  burners  of  every  variety  of  form  and  design, 
illumine  the  walks  which  are  crossing  and  reerossing^  each 
other  every  few  rods  distance,  bewildering  nearly,  in  the  light's 
glare.  At  the  far  end  of  the  principal  avenue,  opposite  to  the 
entrance,  is  a  fac-simile  representation  of  the  Moorish 
Alhambra,"  which  Irving  has  so  beautifully  described  in  his 
volume  upon  that  scene  of  luxury  and  beauty.  The  form  is 
indescribable,  as  I  saw  it  at  night ;  but  the  coloring  of  its 
artistic  front,  adorned  with  colonnades  in  the  peculiar  and  rich 
style  of  Moorish  architecture,  exquisitely  delineated  by  the 
reflection  of  the  brilliant  gas  lights  against  the  dark  drapery 
of  a  summer's  starlight  eve,  presented  to  the  mind  a  representa- 
tion of  materiality  which  had  previously  existed  in  the  ideal 
visions  of  a  pleasant  dream.  The  central  portion  of  the 
structure  was  approached  by  a  range  of  steps  leading  to  a 
^stibular  platform  before  the  principal  entrance.  There 


"  THE  ALIIAMBRA." 


101 


were  doors,  partly  of  glass,  opening  into  a  long  hall  of  tesselated 
floors,  which  tenni.iated  at  the  spacious  stairway  of  the  beauti- 
fully decorated  and  well  arranged  theatre,  on  the  second  story. 
The  softened  mellow  light,  fine  orchestral  music,  well 
costumed  performers  with  more  than  ordmary  ability  of 
theatrical  talent,  made  this  part  of  the  "  Alhambra"  a  popular 
resort.  Under  the  colonnade  of  the  right  wing,  was  a  concert 
room  for  instrumental  music;  and  the  left  (if  memory  is  not 
in  error)  was  the  saloon  for  ices,  coffee,  cakes  and  confectionery. 
Passing  to  the  right  of  the  "  Alhambra,"  was  a  theatre  of 
small,  but  well  proportioned  and  airanged  size,  where  the 
most  comic  pantomimic  performances  were  given.  Still  farther 
down  the  paths  were  arbors  and  retreats,  where  a  small  table, 
with  one  large  glass  of  beer,  separated  the  commentators  upon 
law,  logic  and  beauty,  as  they  puffed  their  arguments  or 
comments  through  the  pipe  bowl.  Retreats  for  the  interchange 
of  those  delicate,  yet  significant  expressions  of  "  thought  and 
word,"  betweeii  the  loving  and  the  loved, — which  must.be  left 
to  the  imagination  of  the  uniniated,  but  never  described. 

An  extended  ramble  brought  you  to  the  "  beer  concert  saloon," 
where  the  musical  talent  or  other  attractions  of  the  performers, 
were  not  as  those  of  Hamburg  memories.  Passing  the  entrance 
gate,  were  small  buildings  where  "  hot  waffles  "  were  made 
and  baked  ;  tem})ting  the  palate  by  the  sprinkling  of  powdered 
sugar,  and  the  accompaniments  of  wine,  cordial,  or  brandy, 
for  a  moderate  compensation.  Lesser  attractions  demanded  their 
proportion  of  your  time.  The  termination  of  the  various 
performances  was  announced  by  a  small  number  of  musicif^ns, 
whose  music,  followed  by  the  throng,  led  from  the  conclusion 
of  one  to  the  commencement  of  another.  With  true  Demo- 
cratic tendencies,  the  brother  of  the  present  King  of  Denmark, 
(a  man  of  the  'Uittle  giant"  stature)  with  his  wife,  and 
others  of  the  court  and  camp  of  royalty,  mingled  with  the 
gay  throng;  where  the  flashing  eyes  and  neglige  mode  ot 
dressing,  raised  the  question  of  character ;  or  the  perfume  of 
9* 


102 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


tobacco  and  sandy  beard  and  moustache,  betrayed  in  the  sterner 
sex,  the  similarity  of  the  Danes  and  Germans.  The  evening's 
entertainments  were  concluded  by  one  of  the  most  successful 
and  brilliant  pyrotechnic  displa}4S  I  ever  witnessed.  The 
glare  of  the  rockets  discharged  from  the  Tivoli  gardens,  (a 
similar  place  of  amusement,  but  not  as  attractive)  would 
occasionally  stimulate  the  proprietors  of  the  "  Alhambra  ;"  and 
it  is  easier  to  conceive  of,  than  to  describe  the  beautiful  effect 
that  followed  the  simultaneous  #5cplosion  of  a  number  of 
rockets,  exhibiting  in  mid  air  the  brilliant  stars  of  crimson, 
gold  and  silver  hue,  golden  rain  and  serpents,  falling  ith  all 
the  poetry  of  motion.  There  was  no  extraordinary  circumstance 
of  fete  or  festival  that  called  forth  this  recreative  amusement 
for  the  mass.  Regular  evenings  are  appropriated  to  similar 
exhibitions  in  each  week.  And  this  exhaustless  source  of 
pleasure  was  afforded  at  the  very  reasonable  price  of  less  than 
a  quarter  of  an  American  dollar.  When  will  the  philanthropist 
learn  wisdom  from  experience.  God  has  so  constituted  the 
mind,  it  demands  excitement.  The  embryo  germ  of  immor- 
tality, it  must  live  and  act.  If  a  tithe  of  the  money  and  the 
labor  of  the  faculties  that  is  now  spent  in  prosecuting  some 
individually  cherished  plans  of  legal  prohibition,  for  the 
suppression  of  crime  of  every  grade  and  name,  could  be 
concentrated  in  one  earnest,  honest  effort  for  reformation  ;  if 
the  faculties  and  means  of  the  community  could  be  directed  to 
the  conception  and  development  of  a  plan,  providing  healthful, 
mirthful,  reputable  diversion  for  the  masses ;  where  the  inno- 
cent and  athletic  sports  might  interchange  with  the  elevating 
inspirations  of  music  ;  and  the  loveliness  and  beneficence  of 
creation  might  be  portrayed  in  the  flower  gardens  and  fountains 
of  our  public  grounds — ( where  are  they?)  if  the  study  of  child- 
hood's impulses  and  dawning  manhood's  propensities  were  taken 
hold  of  with  a  right  good  will,  our  misanthropic  forebodings 
would  cease,  and  faith,  in  the  nobler  attributes  of  humanity, 
would  assume  control  over  the  moping,  and  ascetic  sarca-m  of 


THORWALSDEN. 


103 


those  dispositions  who  liave  pleasure  in  cherishing  the  aspects  of 
a  total  depravity.  Memory  recalls  witli  delight  the  Alhambra  of 
Copenhagen ;  the  Zoological  and  Botanical  Gardens  of  Paris ; 
the  garden  of  the  Tuilleries  and  Luxembourg,  and  countless 
others  in  every  city  of  repute  of  the  old  woi-ld,  filled  with 
a  happy,  joyous  throng  of  the  noble  and  the  lowly  ;  the  rich 
and  the  poor;  the  scholar  and  the  peasant;  roaming  amid 
flowers,  fountains  and  statuary,  with  not  a  pebble  disturbed  or 
a  leaf  plucked;  wdiere  courtesy  is  the  atmosphere  of  contact, 
and  childhood's  merry  laugh  and  sports  lighten  and  brighten 
the  tottering  steps  of  old  age,  in  its  hoary  pathway  to  the 
tomb. 

A  comfortable  couch,  refreshing  slumber,  morning  bath, 
and  a  good  breakfast  put  us  in  order  for  another  day's  work 
and  pleasure.  "  Thorwalsden's  Museum  "  was  our  first  object 
for  examination.  It  is  a  large  stone  structure,  not  of  a  pre-  • 
possessing  exterior,  in  rear  of  the  Christ ianborg  Palace,  on 
the  north  side,  in  the  form  of  a  parallelogram.  The  exterior 
walls  are  decorated  with  colored  stucco  representations  of  the 
histor}'  of  the  Museum.  A  large  bronze  statue  of  Fame  in  a 
car  drawn  by  four  hor.-es,  is  over  the  main  entrance.  The 
building  is  exclusively  appropriated  totlie  collection  of  .-tatuary, 
casts,  sketches,  (in  clialk  and  ink,)  -and  collections  of  Roman 
sculpture,  ironzes,  coin-%  &c.,  made  or  collected  by  this 
•  renowned  artist,  personally ;  his  own  productions  being  nearly 
six  hundred  and  fifty.  An  attempted  description  of  these 
works  of  art  would  be  superfluous.  His  genius  and  talent  are 
as  vividly  depicted  in  the  colossal  eciuestrian  statue  of  the 
Emperor  Maximilian  and  others,  as  in  the  exquisite  concep- 
tion and  execution  of  his  medallion  casts  of  "  day  and  night," 
"the  seasons,"  "angelic  purity,"  or  the  sublimer  personifica- 
tion of  Divine  love  and  mercy,  so  graphically,  yet  so  reveren- 
tially portrayed,  in  his  matchless  statue  of  Christ.  No  one  can 
study  the  works  of  this  great  master,  w^ithout  being  conscious 
of  the  refinement  of  his  ow^n  sensibilities,  however  dormant 


104 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


thej  may  have  been,  until  brought  in  contact  with  those 
revealed  by  the  work  of  his  hands  ;  producing  the  bright 
ideallies  of  an  inspired  mind.  His  mausoleum  is  in  the  centre 
of  the  court  yard,  in  the  interior  of  the  building.  It  is  a  plain 
square  enclosure  raised  above  the  pavement,  covered  with' the 
ivy  in  its  ever  green  foliage  ;  emblematical  of  the  memory  of 
his  talented  genius  ;  and  fresh  as  the  lasting  impressions  of 
his  life  of  purity,  simplicity,  and  cheerfulness.  A  leaf  was 
plucked  !  Not  from  vandalism  or  outrage,  but  for  a  memento 
of  associations  excited  by  the  impressions  of  the  hour  and 
the  place,  which  with  reluctance  may  be  forgotten  in  the  future 
wild  tuynult  of  anxiety,  temptation  and  care.  His  history  is 
an  exemplifieation  of  appreciated  talent  and  honest  worth. 
The  son  of  a  poor  ship  carpenter  from  Iceland ;  born  in 
Copenhagen  1770;  unnoticed  and  neglected  in  his  birthplace, 
his  genius  carries  him  to  Rome ;  employment  in  Canova's 
studio  develops  his  talent  where  he  models  his  statue  of  Jason  ; 
receiving  no  notice  or  emolument,  is  leaving  Rome  for  Den- 
mark ;  his  purpose  defeated  by  an  order  from  Mr.  Hope,  of 
London,  for  a  copy  of  his  beautiful  production  in  marble  ; 
fortune  here  beginning  her  favors,  his  progress  is  onward  and 
.upward.  In  1838,  he  returns  to  his  native  city,  her  mo?t 
:honored  and  illustrious  son  ;  elected  President  of  the  Academy 
■of  Arts  ;  occupying  apartments  in  the  Charlottentttrg  Palace, 
jie  dies  suddenly  in  1844,  in  the  79tli  year  of  his  age.  He 
was  never  married.  His  last  hours  were  spent  in  making  a 
.cast  of  Mai  tin  Luther  ;  and  his  studio,  with  the  furniture, 
remains  as  it  was  when  he  was  translated,  as  it  were,  from  the 
imperfect  conceptions  of  humanity  to  the  full  expansion  of 
beauty  and  perfection  in  the  realms  of  holiness,  purity  and  love. 

Passing  across  the  open  area  to  the  west,  we  next  visited 
the  Museum  of  Northern  Antiquities,  in  the  north  wing^ 
and  occupying  seven  rooms  of  the  "  Christianborg  Palace." 
This  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  exhibitions  that  is  known. 
It  contains,  as  its  name  imports,  collections  of  the  most  remote 


A  NOVEL  ROAD  WAY. 


105 


past;  not  only  of  the  necessary  utensils  of  domestic  life,  but 
a  number  of  valuable  gold  and  silver  articles  of -luxury  and 
dress.  It  is  most  admirably  arranged,  in  the  classification  of 
the  ditFerent  specimens  of  ingenuity  and  skill  in  stone ;  such 
as  arrow  heads,  axes,  knives,  chisels,  &c.,  of  strength  and 
adaptability,  and  tracing  this  progress  to  the  more  modern  and 
perfect  productions  of  iron.  They  have  been  gathered  from 
the  "  cairns  "  or  tombs  of  Noi-thern  Europe,  and  are  ttaced 
back  to  the  eighth  century.  There  is  a  stringent  law  giving  to 
the  Crovyn  all  antiquities  in  metal,  as  discovered.  Their  full 
value  is  paid  ll>e  finder,  and  by  this  wise  legislation  many 
valuables  are  being  con-tantly  added.  A  few  years  since,  a 
pair  of  very  elaborately  wrought  and  heavy  gold  brVii-elets 
ware  thus  preserved.  The  institution  is  under  the  charge  of 
Professor  Thomsen.  He  speaks  English,  and  our  acknowledg- 
ments are  dlie  him  for  the  courtesy  extended  to  us  as  stranger?. 

The  "  Round  Tower  (of  the  Trinity  Church)  was  our 
next  destination.  It  is  ascended  very  easily  by  a  broad 
spiral  ascent,  and  the  view  from  the  observatory,  at  the  top, 
repays  one  amply  for  the  time  and  strength  expended  in  reach- 
ing it.  •  Its  greatest  historical  interest,  I  believe,  arises  from  a 
custom  of  Peter  the  Great,  riding  to  the  top,  being  on  one 
occasion  attended  by  the  Empress  in  a  coach  and  four.  (If  in 
the  Empress'  descent,  any  accident  had  occurred,  as  the 
breaking  of  the  harness,  or  the  loss  of  control  over  her  steeds, 
she  might  have  been  seen  "  on  her  winding  way,"  with  more 
of  truth  than  poetry,  and  with  the  better  appreciation  of  the 
song  of  that  name  !)  At  the  entrance  door  below,  a  miniature 
figure  of  the  clown  in  the  pantomime  at  the  "  Alhambra"  the 
evening  previous,  was  transfered  frona  the  keeper's  stall  to  our 
pockets,  not  however  stealthily,  but  in  exchange  tor  "  skil^ing-." 
The  natural  instincts  of  the  nearness  to  the  dinner  hour 
returned  us  to  the  hotel  with  satisfactory  results.  After  dinner, 
our  little  party  accompanied  a  friend  in  his  visit  to  SvN  cden, 
which  has  been  described  (as  before  referred  to)  in  the  letter 


106 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


to  the  honored  Secretary  of  the  "  Rhode  Island  Society,  &c." 
And  I  refer  my  readers  to  his  com\nunication,  as  a  part  of  this 
"  Ramble."  One  circumstance  I  observed,  which  he  omitted 
to  mention.  The  King  of  Sweden  had  recently  died  ;  and  as 
customary,  the  people  of  every  grade  and  distinction  wore 
black.  Custom  in  this  instance  reflecting  the  grief  which  the 
death  of  a  good  monarch  should  ever  call  forth. 

Leaving  this  friend's  letter,  as  he  hurries  back  to  Copenhagen, 
after  returning  to  Elsinore,  Friday,  August  12tli,  we  drove 
out  to  the  beautiful  watering  place  of  Mairienlytz,  two  miles 
from  the  port.  A  large  stone  hotel  (formerly  a  summer 
palace)^  of  prepossessing  appearance,  with  pleasant  grounds 
for  recreation  in  front,  interspersed  with  flowers,  paths,  trees 
and  arbors,  under  which  families  were  breakfasting,  a  mili- 
tary band  performing  a  truly  matinee  concert,  and  the  children 
rollicking  and  enjoying  the  unrestrained  hilarity  of'childhood's 
mirth, — formed  a  scene  of  cheerfulness  and  pleasure  unknown 
to  our  juveniles  at  home.  In  the  rear  of  the  hotel,  a  high  hill, 
commanding  a  lovely  prospect  of  land  and  sea,  offered  facilities 
for  a  good  appetite,  healthy  exercise,  or  an  excuse  for  the 
comical  ride  upon  a  donkey  to  those  who  liked  the  sport.  But 
ray  experience  with  donkeys  in  Smyrna  and  Cairo  was  too 
vivid  for  a  repetition  here.  There  was  one  circumstance 
connected  with  the  ladies  at  this  watering  place  and  others  in 
Germany,  I  would  especially  commend  to  the  consideration  of 
our  female  friends  at  home.  I  am  aware  I  am  throwing  myself 
into  a  current  of  almost  irresistible  force,  that  has  overwhelmed 
many  a  stouter  heart  and  abler  pen  than  mine,  that  is  now 
bearing  ouAvard  in  its  impetuous  course  to  annihilation,  the 
possibility  almost  of  a  virtuous  career  for  our  young  men.  But 
as  the  last  ray  of  the  sun's  light  is  the  conviction  that  day  has 
been,  and  the  last  twinkle  of  the  star  iii  the  morning  sunrise 
assures  us  that  night  has  past,  so  this  feeble  remonstrance,  this 
earnest  appeal  may  possibly  reach  the  memories  of  the  past, 
and  restore  the  high  hopes  of  exalted  and  independent  man- 


SENSIBLE  WOMEN. 


107 


hood.  These  ladies,  with  plain  white,  or  colored  dresses  of 
muslin,  or  prints,  for  the  morning  toilet ;  thick,  seasonable  shoes, 
occupied  with  their  sewing  or  knitting,  conversing  intelligently 
with  gentlemen  upon  the  ordinary  topics  of  the  day,  of  national, 
scientific  or  literary  subjects  of  interest;  appearing  at  dinner, 
in  a  simple  unostentatious  dress,  without  any  marked  display 
of  oril^nents,  (and  which,  in  my  humble  opinion,  are  never 
appropriate  to  the  street,  or  church,  but  should  be  reserved  for 
the  full  dress  of  an  evening's  formal  visit  or  reception,)  gave 
evidence  of  a  home  culture  and  strong  mindeness ;  with  a 
correct  taste  and  proper  appreciation  of  propriety.  An 
admirer  {adorer,  if  you  will.)  of  the  sex,  may  I  not  suggest 
the  question,  of  a  dangerous  responsibility  in  the  extravagance 
of  dress  for  the  immorality  of  our  own.  The  anticipations  of 
domestic  life  and  felicity  are  annihilated  at  the  cost  of  obtaining 
them.    Who  will  come  to  the  rescue? 


XV. 


DANISH    SOUND  DUES. 

A  pleasant  stroll  around  the  grounds  at  Marienlyfz,  an 
extended  walk  to  Elsinore,  brought  us  to  the  "  Kronberg 
Castle,"  from  the  ramparts  of  which  there  is  a  most  beautiful 
view  of  the  sound  between  Denmark  and  Sweden.  A 
traveler  detects  a  similarity  in  its  appearance  to  tliat  of 
Heidelberg,  both  being  of  gothic  architecture.  Modern 
fortifications  enclose  it,  and  its  principal  claim  to  notoriety  may 
arise  from  the  control  its  cannon  command  in  all  directions, 
and  which  have,  until  very  recently,  rendered  ihe  payment  of 
the  Danish  sound  dues  a  matter  of  necessity;  as  the  sound  is 
not  more  than*  three  miles  at  this  point,  and  both  shores 
formerly  belonged  to  Denmark.  The  origin  of  the  imposts 
upon  all  commercial  transactions  passing  through  the  sound 
to  the  Baltic  sea,  is  of  very  ancient  date,  if  known.  Its 
acknowledgment  has  been  compulsory  from  other  nations,  and 
resistance  attempted,  which,  however,  the  guns  of  the  Castle 
have  very  promptly  annihilated.  If  I  mistake  not,  the  first 
successful  effort  in  not  paying  this  homage  and  tribute  was 
made  by  an  American  ehip,  a  few  years  since.  In  1856, 
Denmark  relinquished  her  rights  and  abolished  the  dues, 
receiving  from  other  countries  the  sum  of  35,000,000  rix 


FROM  ELSINET7R  TO  COPENHAGEN.  109 

dollars,  ($19,145,000  United  States  currency,)  as  a  full 
compensation  therefor.  Of  this  amount,  "  Great  Britain  paid 
28,90  per  cent.;  Russia,  27,80 ;  Prussia,  12,60 ;  and  the 
United  States,  2,03  per  cent.,  ($393,011)"  being  th(<.  respective 
proportions  of  their  trade  in  the  Baltic. 

Elsineur  is  the  residence  of  English,  American,  and  other 
foreign  consuls  and  merchants.  The  English  language  is 
very  freely  spoken,  and  excepting  the  severity  of  an  extreme 
northerly  winter,  the  city  must  be  a  pleasant  locality,  being  so 
directly  upon  the  sound.  On  our  return  to  the  hotel  for 
dinner,  a  few  mementoes,  as  sketches,  engravings,  &c.,  were 
purchased,  and  inquiries  made  as  to  the  price  of  inferior 
scythe  handles,  rakes,  and  other  agricultural  implements.  A 
very  fair  dinner,  at  a  fair  cost,  put  us  in  condition  for  a  drive 
of  twenty-three  or  four  miles  to  Copenhagen.  In  an  open 
carriage,  with  two  horses,  we  started  at  2  P.  M.  The  shore 
of  the  Danish  Sound  had  attracted  our  attention  in  the  sail  to 
Helsingborg,  the  frequency,  neatness,  and  thrift  of  th^sea 
side  villages  and  hamlets  making  it  attractive.  A  ride  through 
them  confirmed  these  impressions,  and  as  they  were  the 
homes  of  the  weather  beaten  bronzed  fishermen,  Ave  saw  them 
and  their  families  engaged  in  mending  nets,  truthfully  depicting 
the  various  toils  and  duties  of  those  similarly  engaged  in  the 
time  of  St.  Paul  and  his  cotemporaries. 

Enjoying  the  bracing  sea  air  from  a  strong  southwest  wind, 
we  were  unconscious  of  the  power  of  the  sun's  rays.  But 
the  premonitory  symptoms  of  a  severe  headache  by  two  of  our 
"  three  of  us,"  followed  by  an  intensity  of  pain  and  annoyance, 
terminated  the  bright  prospects  of  pleasure,  and  brought  us  in 
stern  contact  with  a  sad  reality.  To  those  who  can  appreciate 
the  discomfort,  under  such  circumstances,  of  a  ride  of  twenty 
miles,  in  an  open  carriage,  unpro^Jjjpd  from  a  midsummer 
sun,  against  a  strong  wind  and  dust,  an  appeal  for  sympathy 
would  not  be  misplaced.  And  memory  brings  back  my  own 
sincere  sympathy,  but  useless  effort,  to  relieve  a  near  friend's 
10 


110  A  summer's  TRAVKL  in  EUROPE. 

suffering  from  this  cause,  on  a  steamer's  restricted  comforts. 
To  others  whose  ignorance  is  bliss,"  an  appeal  is  useless.  The 
Castle  of  "  Fredensborg "  (Peace)  upon  the  Esrom  Lake ; 
the  small  summer  retreat  of  royalty,  at  which  the  King  of 
Denmark  was  then  Hving,  shunned  by  his  royal  courtiers  and 
relatives,  (on  account  of  the  plebeian  origin  of  her  majesty, 
formerly  a  milliner,)  indulging  his  sensual  propensities  for 
stimulating  pleasures  ;  recreating,  (if  it  may  be  called,)  by 
living  in  a  tent;  the  forests  connected  with  this 'latter  courtly 
residence,  abounding  in  game  and  diversified  Avith  roads  and 
walks, — these  and  many  incidental  attractions  of  farm  houses, 
peasantry,  cattle  and  crops,  were  indifferently  regarded,  except 
as  objects  almost  of  aversion,  serving  as  landmarks  to  mark 
our  apparently  slow  progress  to  a  long  wished  for  couch  and 
rest.  I  never  knew  the  sensations  of  sea  sickness ;  but  a 
martyrdom  to  sick-headaclie  all  through  boyhood,  and  neuralgia 
throjjgh  manhood,  has  led  me  to  place  a  very  charitable 
estimate  on  this  most  fiishionable  plea  for  absence  from  meal 
hours  on  shipboard.  A  cup  of  tea  was  most  grateful.  Night's 
long,  tedious  hours  were  counted;  daylight  brought  relief. 

Saturday,  August  12th,  was  a  beautiful  day.  Breakfast  Avas 
most  acceptable  from  the  previous  evening's  draft  upon  our 
physical  energies  ;  and  with  Joseph  as  our  guide,  our  steps 
were  directed  to  the  Royal  Museum.  This  collection  embraces 
a  very  great  variety  of  ancient  relics  from  Egypt,  and  other 
as  renowned  localities, — the  enumeration  of  which,  would  be 
a  copy  of  the  catalogue  of  most  of  the  similar  institutions  of 
the  world.  And  as  no  one  things  stands  prominently  forth  in 
memory,  amid  the  marbles,  bronzes,  ivory-carvings,  clubs, 
battle-axes,  knives,  armour,  drinking-horns,  golden  crucifixeF, 
vessels  of  gold,  silver  and  glass,  and  mementoes  of  every  age^ 
clime  and  people,  habita^lfcis  and  customs,  I  shall  simply  add 
the  two  hours  spent  here,  as  part  of  the  accumulated  fund  of 
pleasures  and  treasures  of  foreign  travel,  to  be  draAvn  upon  as 
inclination  or  profit  may  demand,    A  search  among  the  shops 


CHURCHES  AND  TRISOXS. 


Ill 


for  sometliing  curious  that  miglit  satiate  the  imagination  of  the 
wonderful  and  strange  in  the  minds  of  my  f^imily,  who,  whh 
myself,  had  supposed  Copenliag{in  lo  be  the  very  embodiment 
of  the  marvelous,  resulted  in  the  purchase  of  some  music  for 
home  practice,  &c. 

"  The  Church  of  our  Lady  "  contains  Thorwalsden's  cele- 
brated statue  of  the  baptismal  font,  a  kneeling  angel "  in 
marble,  of  exquisite  beauty.  Bas  reliefs,  suggestive  of  the 
sculptor's  personal  history,  adorn  the  church,  representing  "  a 
child  walking  and  looking  upwards  to  heaven  for  aid,  while  it 
is  followed  by  an  angel  whose  hand  is  extended  over  the  child's 
head."  Tiiis  and  another  group  called  "  Maternal  Love  "  are 
very  Rasing.  The  church  has  also  within  its  walls  the 
statues  of  the  twelve  Apostles,  St.  Paul  being  substituted  for 
that  of  Judas ^Iscariot.  Crossing  the  arm  of  the  sea  basin, 
which  extends  upon  the  southern  side  of  the  city  to  the  fortifi- 
cation, our  next  visit  was  to  the  State  Prison  upon  the  island 
of  Amak,  (a  part  of  the  city,)  and  enclosed  within  the 
fortified  walls  and  ditch.  I  regret  that  the  precaution  of  taking 
notes  of  this  institution  was  omitted  at  the  time.^  In  memory, 
however,  I  see  a  long  parallelogram  range  of  buildings  of 
massive  proportions  ^  within  which  was  a  large  court  yard, 
containing  buildings  of  less  size  and  strength.  A  ring  at  the 
door  of  the  main  office  entrance  brought  a  very  gentlemanly 
official,  with  a  niilitary  dress  of  blue  frock  coat,  gilt  buttons, 
glazed  cap  and  belt,  and  holding  in  his  hands  a  large  bunch  of 
massive  keys.  Tlie  visit  of  strangers  I  fancy  was  a  novelty, 
judging  from  the  inquisitive  glance  our  request  was  greeted 
with.  Representing  that  one  of  us  had  been  somewhat  officially 
conversant  with  similar  institutions  at  home,  and  a  cdiflmendable 
desire  for  information  and  comparison  was  the  honest  purpose 
for  our  visit,  we  were  ushered  into  the  office,  and  after  a  few 
moments  delay,  commenced  our  tour  of  inspection.  A  small 
yard,  enclosed  with  a  very  high  picket  fence,  afforded 
opportunities  for  limited  exercise  to  those  convicts  whose  term 


112 


A  SUMMER  S  TRAVEL    IN  EUROPE. 


of  commitment  were  not  of  a  severe  nature.  A  long  corridor 
of'  one  of  the  principal  buildings  contains  cells  upon  each  side, 
eight  feet  by  ten  or  twelve  in  size,  painted  green,  well 
ventilated,  clean  and  airy.  These  are  for  the  exchange  of 
confinement  to  prisoners  of  milder  crimes.  In  one,  a  mild, 
inoffensive  looking  man,  in  stocking  feet,  but  comfortable  and 
cleanly  in  his  dress,  was  pacing  his  narrow  rounds,  knitting  a 
yam  stocking.  Two  hours  per  day  is  allowed  for  recreation 
within  and  without.  In  other  parts  of  the  large  establishment* 
prisoners  were  three  and  four  or  eight  and  ten  in  number,  in 
rooms,  working  and  weaving  hemp,  cloth  of  cotton,  and  woolen 
for  shirts,  and  the  prison  dress  of  heavy  fabric,  one  li^J||^ellow 
and  the  other  dark  gray,  mixed  ;  in  basements,  cutting  logwood 
with  a  free  use  of  their  implements  ;  working  at  other 
branches  of  mechanical  trades  ;  manufacturing  *every  quality 
and  kind  of  articles  required  for  the  maintenance  of  the  prison. 
The  dormitories  are  in  the  attic,  and  contain  some  thirty  or 
forty  bunks  under,  the  supervision  of  a  keeper.  The  food  is 
is  simple,  but  nutritious  and  freely  dispensed^ '  I  am  sure  an 
ascetic  believer  in  the  depravity  of  humanity,  would  have  his 
faith  rather  tested,  in  the  almost  unrestricted  conversation  and 
interviews,  by  day  and  night,  allowed  the  convicts  under  this 
mild,  but  as  yet,  successful  discipline.  .The  Danes  are  a 
peculiar  people  in  their  bad  propensities,  if  they  require  no 
harsher  treatment  under  convictions  for  crime.  Total  depravity 
they  have  either  recovered  from,  or  did  not  originally  possess. 

The  "  Church  of  Our  Redeemer,"  upon  the  island  near  the 
prison,  has  a  curious  spire,  with  a  stairway  upon  the  outside, 
resemblino^  at  a  distance  an  inverted  cork  screw.  There  were 
many  other  very  interesting  places  and  buildings  that  should 
have  been  visited,  but  the  time  of  our  departure  was  at  hand. 
Reluctantly  passing  through  the  large  open  square,  (as  upon 
our -first  entrance  to  the  city,)  with  hardly  an  emblem  of  life 
(except  the  equestrian  statue  in  the  centre)  to  identify  it  with 
the  onward  progress  of  the  times  and  age  in  which  we  live, 


A  WELL  ARRiV^GED  LIFE-DESTROYER. 


113 


SO  deserted  aud  quiet  was  its  area,  although  surrounded  by 
large  public  buildings  ;  passing  the  large  market  place,  well 
supplied  Avith  flesh,  fish  and  fowl,  and  the  varieties  'of  garden 
and  orchard  culture;  leaving  unnoticed  and  unknown  the 
Castle  and  Gardens  of  Rosanborg,  and  the  virgin  cita<!jlof 
Frederikhaven,  (as  yet  never  having,  been  taken  by  a  foreign 
foe;)  examining  at  a  distance  the  "  Exchange,"  with  its 
curiously  formed  spire  of  four  twisted  dragon  tails,  the  heads 
pointing  to  the  four  points  of  the  compass  ;  we  hurried  to  the 
Hotel  Royal  for  our  last  dinner,  and  appealed  to  Joseph's 
generosity  of  feeling,  in  his  withholding  from  our  disappointed 
eyes  and  ears  the  recapitulation  of  what  we  were  losing  in 
leaving  unseen  the  theatres,  club-rooms,  porcelain  manufactory, 
&c.,  &c. 

.  Dinner  over,  bills  paid,  Joseph  generously  remembered,  a 
short  droski  drive  placed  us  at  the  railway  station  for  Korsor, 
the  terminus  of  the  railway  from  Copenhagen.  A  very 
pleasant  ride  of  three  and  a  quarter  hours  brought  us  to  the 
southern  part  of  Zealand,  en  route  for  Hamburg,  A  small 
steamer  was  at  the  wharf  in  Korsor,  being  the  regular  and 
connecting  link  of  communication  with  Kiel,  the  terminus  of 
the  Hamburg  railway.  The  cabin  appropriated  to  the  male 
passengers  was  approached  by  one  of  the  best  arranged 
companion  or  passage  ways  and  stairs  for  an  annihilation  of 
humanity  in  case  of  fire,  or  casualty,  I  ever  saw  ;  being  crooked, 
narrow  and  steep. .  The  constructor  must  have  had  his  neck 
and  brain  affected  by  that  cork  screw  spire  above  referred  to. 
The  bulkhead  of  this  miserably  cramped  and  wretchedly 
ventilated  apartment  was  next  to  the  boilers.  And  if  my 
readers  are  ever  again  disposed  to  find  fault  with  the  comfort 
and  luxury  of  our  steamers,  they  should  be  transferred  to  a 
"transport"  in  a  foreign  craft.  One  such  prescription  will 
cure  them.  A  small  state  room  of  two  berths  was  appropriated 
to  the  senior  and  junior  persons  of  "  us  three,"  where  we 
staid  through  the  five  or  six  hours'  sail  to  Kiel.  I  believe  I 
10* 


114 


A  summer's  travel  EUROPE. 


have  committed  myself  somewhere  in  an  approbation  of  the 
courteous  manners  and  greetings  of  these  semi- Germans.  The 
experience  of  the  villainous  smoking  in  the  car  to  Kiel,  and 
ib^winish  manners  at  the  supper  table  on  board  this  steamer, 
must  have  been  matters  unknown  when  that  commendation 
was  passed.  Knives  and  forks  were  as  little  apparently 
regarded  as  was  the  least  expression  or  act  of  courtesy 
extended.  The  food  was  consumed,  but  do  not  ask  how.  We 
recognized  the  brother  of  the  King  of  Denmark  (accompanied 
by  his  wife  and  a  few  sycophantic  attendants)  among  the 
passengers,  and  found  here,  as  elsewhere,  that  "  titled  person- 
ages "  were  always  the  recipients  of  favoritism.  A  large 
commodious  state  room  was  appropriated  to  the  royal  party ; 
separate  and  more  elaborate  arrangements  of  the  table  and 
service  were  made ;  and  upon  our  arrival  the  next  morning  at 
Kiel,  similar  considerations  were  perfected  for  them  in  the 
cars.  With  all  our  Republican  boasting  and  Democratic 
sympathies,  there  are  no  persons  more  captivated  with  a  sight, 
at  least,  of  royalty,  than  Americans.  Where  true,  honest, 
intrinsic  w^orth,  as  in  England's  Queen,  is  the  characteristic  of 
eminent  position,  this  homage  is  due  and  merited.  But  the 
mere  accident  or  circumstance  in  birth  and  association,  elevates 
many  a  drone  in  the  world's  busy  hive  of  industry  and  well 
earned  distinction,  above  the  more  humble  and  worthier 
members  of  society. 

In  leaving  Copenhagen  we  could  but  regret  that  a  fire  did 
not  occur.  Ever  so '  trifling  a  cause  would  have  satisfied  us. 
Certainly  our  first  efforts  would  have  been  for  its  extinction. 
But  then  the  description  of  one  was  so  graphic.  "  To  run 
with  the  machine  "  there,  means  an  amount  of  excitement 
that  puts  in  the  shade  the  most  exuberant  use  of  lungs  and 
muscle  among  us.  A  constant  watch  is  kept  in  the  church 
towers,  and  the  first  issue  of  smoke  or  flame  puts  the  church 
bells  in  motion  ;  drums  of  the  garrison  beating;  the  watchman 
dolefully  crying  fire  !  fire  !  and  if  any  noise  can  be  madt*  that 


A  FIRE  IN  COPENHAGEN.  "  115 

has  not  its  representation  in  Copenhagen,  at  this  time  of 
universal  alarm,  it  must  be  of  other  than  human  origin.  And 
when  the  slumbers  of  the  startled  citizens  are  thoroughly 
broken,  and  white  night  caps  and  dresses,  regardless  of 
exposure,  are  at  the  windows,  peering  out  to  know  "  what  and 
where  it  is  ?"  you  have  materials  for  a  fancy  sketch  or  an 
historical  painting,  seldom  available  elsewhere.  A  foul 
chimney  is  frequently  the  origin  of  this  confusion,  worse 
confounded,  which  simple  cause  instead  of  checking  the  uproar 
at  another  time,  seems  but  to  increase  it,  as  an  avenger  of  the 
disappointment  at  the  alarm  ending  in  smoke.  ^ 

We  reached  Kiel,  Sunday  morning  at  four  o'clock,  and 
leaving  at  7  A.  M.,  received  a  warm  welcome  from  some  of 
the  inmates  of  "  Streits  Hotel,  in  Hamburg,"  at  half-past 
ten  A.  M.  Part  df  the  '  family  were  in  attendance  upon  the 
services  of  the  English  Mission  Chapel.  Their  description  of 
an  unfortunate  "  erring  and  straying "  through  the  Jews' 
quarter,  was  more  graphic  than  the  long  walk  consequent 
*  upon  their  lost  way,  could  have  been  agreeable.  A  most 
happy  reunion  was  our  return,  as  with  fearful  forebodings,  and 
grateful  acknowledgments  to  Almighty  God  for  their  protection 
and  our  common  preservation  for  the  future,  we  listened  to  the 
sad  tale  of  the  ravages  of  the  cholera  in  Hamburg, — an  utter 
ignorance  of  which  alone  justified  our  truant  trip  to  Denmark, 
dividing  our  household  in  a  strange  land,  and  under  such 
unpleasant  circumstances. 

My  family  had  been  the  recipients  of  the  United  States 
Consul's  (J.  B.  Miller,  E^q.)  courtesies  and  agreeable  atten- 
tions, (including  a  dinner  at  the  Consulate  with  the  officials 
from  other  countries,  and  a  delightful  drive  and  dinner  U23on 
the  brinks  of  the  Elbe,)  during  the  trip  to  Denmark.  The 
anxiety  for  information  as  to  our  locality  and  comforts  for  the 
year,  away  from  all  the  endearments  of  home  and  near  friends 
and^urrounded  by  the  great  peculiarities  of  a  foreign  life,  in 
contrast  with  the  simple  but  comfortable  details  of  our  own 
fireside,  made  a  longer  stay  at  Hamburg  impracticable. 


116  , 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


At  7 1  o'clock,  A.  M.,  on  Monday,  August  15th,  we  were  in 
the  cars  and  off  for  Berlm  per  railway.  In  leaving  the  city 
limits,  the  railway  passes  across  the  marshes  of  the  Elbe? 
through  the  district  and  homes  of  the  beautiful  "  Vierlanders," 
(flower  girls.)  The  market  and  flower  gardens  are  as 
remarkable  for  their  fertility  as  the  costume  of  the  peasantry 
is  picturesque.  There  are  four  of  these  villages,  hence  the 
name  of  "  Vier  (four)  land."  The  distance  between  Hamburg 
and  Berlin  is  38  Prussian,  or  178  English  miles.  The  country 
is  very  flat,  and  memory  recalls  no  point  of  especial  interest 
to  relieve  the  monotonous  nine  hours  travel.  You  pass  some  . 
twelve  or  fifteen  stations,  with  villages  of  more  or  less 
pretensions  connected  with  them,  and  of  the  peculiar 
stereotyped  German  appearance,  in  the  architecture  and 
arrangement  of  the  churches,  houses  and  sireets. 

Our  arrival  at  Berlin,  at  3|  P.  M.,  was  announced  to  us  in 
the  necessity  of  a  custom  house  search  of  the  trunks,  &c. 
There  was  more  of  rigidity  in  this  investigation  than  was 
agreeable,  as  we  had  among  the  packages  a  tin  canister  of  old  • 
English  breakfast  tea.  If  I  were  to  advise  a  traveler  just 
starting  on  his  travels,  (while  the  repeated  annoyances  of 
examinations,  cross-questionings  and  duty-levying  reminiscences 
are  fresh  in  my  mind,)  it  would  be  to  believe  nothing  that 
may  be  told  him  by  others.  A  good-meaning  friend  in  London 
had  insisted  on  our  taking  with  us  this  indispensable  comfort 
of  "  a  good  cup  of  tea,"  assuring  us,  from  personal  experience, 
of  the  impossibility  of  procuring  it  in  any  part  of  Germany. 
The  advice  was  well  meant,  but  misapplied.  We  always 
found  upon  opr  table  what  was  agreeable  to  us  in  this  respect ; 
and  at  the  different  custom  houses,  the  suspicion  of  smuggling 
and  its*  attendant  annoyances  followed  the  forgetfulness  of 
declaring  beforehand  this  objectionable  i^art  of  our  luggage. 
From  the  custom  house  we  drove  to  the  Hotel  St.  Petersburg 
upon  •  the  "  Unter-den-Linden,"  a  very  comfortabhi^and 
reasonable  house.    A  wretched  headache  consigned  one  of  our 


UNPLEASANT  REFLECTIONS. 


117 


number  to  an  early  couch,  with  the  usual  sympathies  expressed 
and  excited  by  years  of  martyrdom,  while  the  rest  of  us 
strolled  through  the  long  row  of  Linden  trees,  from  which  the 
street  derives  its  name.  Quiet  slumbers  restored  all  to  duty 
next  morning.  An  apprehension  tlia^  our  privacy  had  been 
invaded,  arose  from  the  exceeding  neglige  costume-  which 
greeted  the  vision  in  the  morning  light.  It  was  a  reflection 
from  a  large  mirror  unnoticed  the  evening  previous.  The 
reflections,  if  truthful,  were  certainly  not  flattering. 


XVI. 


FREDERICK  THE  GREAT. 


August  16tli  was  a  pleasant  morning.  As  one  of  our 
happy  band  was  liomeAvard  bound  in  tlie  Arago,  from  Havre, 
on  the  23d  of  this  month,  we  drove  to  the  railway  for  Pottsdam  ; 
it  being  one  of  the  principal  objects  of  interest  near  Berlin, 
and  as  yet  not  visited  by  our  friend,  although  a  rambler  from 
home  for  more  than  a  year.  This  place  is  the  third  station  on 
the  railway  from  Berlin  to  Magdeburg,  and  its  notoriety  arises 
from  its  being  a  resort  for  royalty  from  the  heat  and  excitement 
of  thefcapitol  in  the  summer  months.  There  are  four  palaces? 
which,  with  the  gardens  and^pirks,  can  be  visited  in  a  half 
day.  The  remains  of  Frederick  the  Great  are  contained  in  a 
metal  sarcophagus,  under  the  pulpit  of  the  "  Garnison  Kirche" 
(Garrison  Church.)  In  exchange  for  his  sword  which  was 
placed  upon  his  coffin,  but  carried  away  by  Napoleon  and 
subsequently  lost,  there  are  the  eagles  and^  colors  of  the 
Emperor's  troops,  taken  from  them  by  the  Prussians,  and 
suspended  from  the  walls  of  the  church.  The  Royal  Palace, 
built  in  1660  and  1701,  was  the  residence  of  the  Prussian 
King,  and  is  remarkable  for  the  associations  connected  with 
him,  carefully  and  truthfully  preserved ;  his  writing  table, 
decorated  with  ink  spots  indicative  of  haste  or  waste  ;  inkstand? 


NO  "eaves-droppings." 


119 


piano,  music  stand,  upon  which  are  copies  of  his  own  musical 
composition ;  green  shade  for  his  eyes,  bookcase,  and  the 
chairs  and  sofas  of  his  daily  use.  The  monarch  had  a  singular 
attachment  for  a  few  favorite  dogs.  They  were  his  constant 
companions  by  night  and  day.  Plates  were  regularly  placed 
for  them  at  the  table  ;  and  the  chairs  with  their  &ilken  coverings 
tattered  and  torn  by  their  paws,  prove  the  luxury  of  which 
tliey  were  the  recipients.  A  stray  feather  from  one  of  the 
cusliions  was  preserved,  and  forms  one  of  a  numberless 
collection  of  souvenirs  of  foreign  travel.  His  dogs  fared  more 
sumptuously  than  their  royal  master,  as  his  couch  was  a 
common  tru(^  bed,  which  has  furnished  many  a  relic  to 
insatiable  wantonness  in  whittling,  to  which  all  travelers  are 
more  or  less  inchned.  "  Eavesdroppers  "  are  by  no  means  a 
modern  element  in  society.  Adjoining  the  monarch's  bed 
chamber  is  a  small  cabinet  with  double  doors,  containing  a 
round  dining  table,  upon  which  the  meals  were  served  in  the 
apartment  below,  and  by  means  of  machinery  passed  up  through 
the  fioor.  After  dinner  the  table  was  lowered,  and  the 
aperture  covered  with  the  floor  as  though  its  solidity  had  never 
been  disturbed.  In  this  manner  the  state  secrets  were  kept 
inviolate,  and  private  feuds  unknown.  What  "  a  Sahara  "  for 
scandal  mongers  that  secret  apartment  must  have  been.  In 
how  many  charitable  gatherings  must  it  have  been  the  subject 
of  stern  censure!  Where  would  our  thousand  and  one 
benevolent  operations  among  the  different  societies  find  attrac- 
tions for  their  full  me<:tings  !  What  a  miserable  suspense  if 
no  overburdened,  zealous,  inquisitive  mind  could  be  relieved 
of  its  store  house  of  suspicions,  and  rumors,  and  conjectures 
of  what  might  happen,  if  this  was  so,  or  that  was  this  !  The 
gardens  of  the  "Sans  Souci  Palace  "  are  laid  out  with  much 
taste,  the  palace  being  situated  at  the  top  of  a  high,  step-like 
terrace..  The  hot  houses  connected  with  the  palace  furnish 
oranges,  grapes  and  olives.  At  the  extremity  of  the  terrace 
are  the  graves  of  the  war  horse  and  favorite  dogs  of  Frederick 


120 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


the  Great.  It  was  the  monarch's  desire  to  have  been  buried 
beside  his  faithful  friends,  but  the  wish  was  not  fulfilled.  In 
the  palace,  a  clock  always  wound  by  his  own  hand,  stopped  at 
the  hour  of  his  death,  and  then,  as  now,  points  the  visitor  to 
the  time  of  the  soul's  exchange  of  its  existence,  "  twenty 
minutes  past  two."  The  other  palaces  of  Charlottenhof,  built 
after  the  Pompeian  style,  and  the  new  palace,  are  noteworthy 
as  residences  of  royalty,  containing  the  evidences  and  arrange- 
ments for  the  luxury  and  pomp  of  elevated  birth  and  station,  but 
with  no  remarkable  features  for  which  to  linger  longer  at  Potts- 
dam.  The  town  contains  about  forty  thousand  inhabitants,  and 
the  private  houses,  in  their  architectural  arrangements,  have 
evidently  been  copied  from  the  palatial  mansions  that  stand 
among  them.  A  drive  to  the  Russian  colony  of  eleven  houses 
and  a  small  church,  and  thence  to  the  railway  for  Berlin" 
terminated  the  excursion.  I  am  not  aware  of  the  circumstances 
which  founded  the  small  settlement  of  Russian  peasantry  in 
this  particular  locality.  The  architecture  of  their  houses 
resembled  that  of  the  Swiss,  in  the  large  flat  pointed  roofs 
and  galleries  round  the  lower  stories.  They  were  sent  to 
Prussia  by  the  late  Emperor  Nicholas.  A  little  episode  in  our 
starting  occurred,  which  gave  us  an  opportunity  of  testing 
the  courtesy  of  the  railway  officials.  They  are  very  generally, 
on  the  continent,  men  who  have  seen  military  service ;  and 
as  their  dress  partakes  more  or  less  of  a  military  style  and 
character,  it  is  not  surprising  if  they  occasionally  forget  that 
the  imperativeness  or  servility  in  giving  or  receiving  orders,  is 
not  always  adapted  to  ladies  and  gentlemen,  who  can  better 
appreciate  courtesy  and  politeness  than  they  can  understand 
roughness  or  incivility.  The  numberless  attaches  of  a  train  of 
cars,  or  at  a  railway  station,  with  the  high  cost  of  the  roads, 
sufficiently  account  for  the  low  rate  of  dividends.  At  every 
station  you  must  purchase  tickets  before  you  are  admitted 
within  the  waiting  rooms.  These  are  divided  into  first,  second 
and  third  class  apartments,  corresponding  with  the  character 


FOREIGN  RAILWAY  CARRIAGES. 


121 


of  the  cars,  and  the  price  you  pay  for  your  seat.  The  doorg 
next  to  the  track  are  locked,  and  no  ingress  or  egress 
is  permitted.  When  the  train  is  in  the  station  properly 
arranged,  the  doors  are  opened  by  attendants  from  the  railway 
side,  and  you  step  from  a  long  level  platform  into  the  first  car 
you  can  find,  corresponding  with  the  rank  of  your  ticket.  The 
cars  are  called  carriages  and  generally  contain  a  centre 
apartment  arranged  for  six  or  eight  persons  of  the"  first  class, 
most  sumptuously  upholstered  with  plush  or  velvet.  Two 
other  compartments,  equally  as  comfortable  and  roomy,  but 
lined  with  drab  or  blue  broadcloth,  are  for  the  second  class. 
Each  end  is  termed  a  "  coupe,'^  (cut-off)  and  is  as  if  one  of 
the  other  compartments  had  been  cut  in  two ;  having  three  or 
four  seats,  as  the  whole  carriages  may  contain  six  or  eight.  A 
third  class  carriage  is  generally  a  large  box  car,  with  wooden 
seats  having  backs  as  high  as  the  shoulders,  without  upholstering 
of  any  kind,  and  capable  of  carrying  twenty-four  or  thirty-two 
passengers.  Before  the  train  starts  a  collector  comes  to  the 
door  of  the  car  and  examines  your  ticket,  to  see  if  you  are 
rightly  located  and  if  you  have  not  mistaken  the  destination  of 
the  train.  When  all  is  right,  a  signal  whistle  announces  the 
fact,  and  the  guard,  as  he  is  termed,  mounts  up  into  a  small 
box  at  the  end  of  the  last  car,  where,  from  the  windows  of  his 
cage,  he  commands  a  view  of  the  moving  train  and  road.  He 
has  no  mode  of  communicating  with  the  driver  of  the  engine. 
As  the  train  stops  at  a  station,  his  duty  is  to  open  the  doors,  and 
answer  as  good  natu redly  as  he  may  please^  the  many  useful 
and  u'seless  questions  Avhich  are  addressed  to  him.  A  time- 
keeper stands  with  his  register  to  note  the  arrival  of  the  train, 
and  when  the  time  of  its  detention  has  expired,  he  whistles 
as  before,  and  as  the  train  moves  on,  the  time  of  its  departure 
is  noted  down.  The  passengers  who  may  leave  the  train  at 
any  station,  pass  into  the  waiting-rooms,  at  the  doors  of  which 
the  tickets  are  collated.  It  may  appeaf  a  very  simple  process 
to  enter  a  train  at  a  way  station  and  travel  nearly  the  entu'C 


122 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


road  without  a  ticket.  So  it  is  ;  but  you  cannot  leave  the 
railroad  without  detection  ;  you  must  pass  the  scrutiny  of  the 
station  door  keepers.  You  are  not  allowed  to  cross  the  track 
for  any  reason,  except  when  authorized  by  the  officials  at  a 
refreshment  saloon.  I  remember  at  a  way  station  of  stepping 
upon  the  track  to  examine  the  rails  and  fastenings,  when  the 
next  train  was  not  expected  in  some  little  time.  The  manner 
and  the  matter  by  which  I  was  ordered  on  to  the  platform  of 
the  station,  crushed  my  Yankee  curiosity  for  one  while. 


XVII. 


FOREIGN  RAILWAYS. 


The  drivers  and  firemen  of  the  engines  upon  fbreign  rail" 
ways  are  without  any  protection  whatever  from  the  weather. 
There  are  soiffetimes  upon  the  locomotives,  placed  before  them, 
a  board  with  two  large  circular  glass  lights,  as  eyes,  through 
which  they  can  see  the  road  when  running  against  a  dri- 
ving storm  offtnow  or  rain.  The  locomotives  are  much 
smaller  than  the  American  style,  (one-third  less  I  think,)  aifd  the 
trains  are  seldom  as  heavy  with  passengers  or  freight,  as  the 
ordj^iary  regulations  of  an  American  railway.  The  cars  are 
generally  four  or  six  wheeled.  Candor  compels  me  to  add 
that  the  arrangements  for  safety  to  passengers,  in  foreign 
countries,  are  far  in  advance  of  our  own  system.  For  exclu- 
siveness  and  comfort,  their  carriages  are  more  luxurious  than 
ours,  at  a  cost  of  one-third  more  for  rate  of  travel.  But  for 
sociability,  seeing  the  country  and  facilities  for  change  of  posi- 
tion, the  American  railway  car  is  superior.  Here  my  encomiums 
stop.  The  memories  of  sick  headache,  nausea,  and  almost 
faintness  from  exhaustion,  come  rushing  to  the  mind,  as  travel 
after  travel,  in  cars  containing  fifty  and  sixty  passengers  of  all 
ages,  ranks  and  conditions  of  J^fe;  a  close  air-tight  stove 
lieated  to  an  intense  heat ;  not  a  door  or  window  open ;  three 


124 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


small  openings  in  the  roof  of  the  car,  miscalled  ventilators  ; 
and  at  night  two  or  three  lamps  adding  in  smoke  and  odor  to 
the  vitiated  atmosphere, — these  horrors  of  a  railway  ride  are 
too  vivid  for  an  extended  eulogium  upon  our  railway  arrange- 
ment. The  simple  cord  which  passes  through  the  train  for 
communication  to  the  engineer  in  case  of  accident  or  necessity  ; 
the  comfortable  arrangements  of  those  whose  care  and  prompti- 
tude are  our  only  safeguards  ;  the  simplicity  of  arrangements 
with  our  conductors,  ticket  officers,  stations  and  limited  num- 
ber of  employees,  are  all  commeataries  upon  the  formal  clock- 
work detail  of  similar  institutions .  abroad.  Our  first  and 
second-class  cars  are  all  that  are  required  for  the  economy  or 
grades  of  life  with  us.  The  slur  is  often  heard  abroad^  that. 
"  none  but  fools,  aristocrats  and  Americans  ride  first-class."  But 
the  episod^to  which  I  referred  in  my  last,  was  this :  In  pur- 
chasing tickets  for  a  family  of  seven  persons, .  the  number  of 
adults  and  juveniles  was  honestly  given,  and  thf  tickets  paid 
for  as  demanded.  A  sub-guard  in  his  rounds  of  arrogant  and 
egotistical  duty  impudently  peering  into  our  faces,  detected,  as 
he  supposed,  an  attempted  fraud,  in  cheating  the  railway  of 
half  *a  fare  for  one  of  the  juveniles,  on  a.  ride  of  eighteen 
miles.  .The  boy'  is  ordered  out !  He  was  ordered  to  sit  still* 
Another  order  of  ejectment  was  issued;  but  another  coi^ter- 
mand  followed.  The  indignant  official  makes  a  molion  for 
ejectment;  but  a  counter  motion  by  myself,  of  rather  a  forcible 
nature,  arrested  that.  The  principal  of  the  station  is  sum- 
moned by  the  moustached  dignitary.  He  comes — an  explana- 
tion follows.  The  tickets  are  shown  ;  the  boy's  age  told  ;  and 
the  official  retires  with  our  blessings,  and  his  superior's  apology 
for  his  insolence. 

The  attractions  of  the  Alhambra  at  Copenhagen  led  us  to 
seek  for  similar  pleasures  in  Berlin.  And  under  the  guidance 
of  the  commissionaire  who  had  accompanied  us  on  oiir  excur- 
sion to  Pottsdam,  we  drove^o  the  "  Kroil  Gardens,"  after  tea. 
But  the  fascinating  scenes  of  the  former  were  brilliant  in 


A  German's  "  alhambra." 


125 


comparison  with  the  dull  and  listless  pleasures  of  the  latter.  A 
very  fair  theatrical  performance  in  a  well  arranged  theatre  ; 
exhibitions  of  the  "  Puach  and  Judy  "  of  merry  England  ; 
(tlie  German  manipulator  having  successfully  acquired  the 
the  strong  nasal  style  Qf  language  so  indispensably  connected 
with  the  exhibition,)  shooting  galleries  ;  singing  concerts  and 
similar  sources  for  amusements  ;  seiall  tables  with  the  indis- 
pensable tall  glass  of  the  universal  beverage,  passing  from 
hands  to  lips  of  the  two  occupants  of  the  chairs;  sometimes 
both  of  one  sex,  or  one  of  both  ;  smoking,  jolly-faced  paternals 
joining  in  the  laugh  and  ecstacy  of  the  maternals  at  the  funny 
things  said  and  done  by  the  pledges  of  their  mutual  affection, 
whose  early  abilities  and  education  in  beer  drinking  were  not 
unfrequently  tested ;  young  men  from  the  university  and 
schools,  inquisitively  analyzing  the  claims  of  beauty  and  attract- 
iveness in  the  representatives  of  the  fair  sex,  in  their  care-for- 
nothinor  saunterinjT  alon<]r  the  walks  ;  matrons  and  maidens  with 
and  without  protectors,  thus  establishing  a  claim  for  respecta- 
bility, or  repudiating  all  pretensions  or  necessity  for  it ; — these 
and  a  variety  of  pther  incidents,  were  the  attractions  which  drew 
together  a  concourse  of  people,  paying  a  trifling  fee  for 
admission  at  the  gates  of  the  garden.  What  a  contrast  to  the 
fairy-like  scenes  of  the  Alhambra  ! 

The  next  morning  found  us  armed  and  equipped  for  duty,  as 
the  various  members  of  the  party  reported  themselves  for 
inspection.  Our  first  visit  was'to  the  quiet*liome-like  palace 
of  the  young  Prince,  Frederick  William,  of  Prussia,  whose 
wife,  the  daughter  of  Victoria,  is  also  Princess  Royal  of 
England.  The  royal  pair  were  at  their  summer  quarters,  and 
thtj  palace  was  in  some  little  confusion,  under  the  direction  of 
artizans  making  repairs  and  improvements.  A  servant  of  the 
youthful  household  being  a  friend  of  our  commissionaire  and 
-not  insensible  to  the  influence  a  silver  talisman  exerts,  assisted 
us  up  the  royal  stairway,  protesting  at  the  same  time  against 
our  admission,  as  the  palace  was  closed  by  orders  from  the 
IP 


126 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


"major  domo."  Once  inside,  the  hall  doors  were  shut  by  him, 
to  give  us  more  liberty  in  rambling  through  the  apartments, 
and  to  screen  himself  from  observatioii  in  his  implicit  adherence 
to  positive  orders.  If  my  fair  readers  should  question  his 
veracity,  he  might  possibly  refer  for  his  testimonials,  to  some 
of  their  cotemporaries,  who  never  teach  such  violation  of 
integrity,  in  reaching  over^he  ballusters  as  the  servant  answers* 
the  bell  at  the  door,  and  very  conscientiously  directing  him  to 
say  "  Mistress,  or  the  Misses,  are  not  at  home  !"  Our  kind 
•  hostess  in  London,  repeated  one  or  two  anecdotes  of  the  young 
Princess,  (in  whose  apartment  we  were,)  which  were  so  well 
corroborated  by  the  little  incidents  around  us,  that  I  feel  safe 
in  again  repeating  them  here.  It  is  -said  that  the  Queen 
mother  of  Prussia  calling  one  day  upon  the  Princess,  v/as 
much  shocked  at  her  offering  her  young  husband  a  chair,  say- 
ing it  was  not  dignified  for  Royalty  to  perform  such  duties." 
"  I  do  not  know  Avhy  not,"  replies  the  Princess,  "  my  mother 
'gets  a  chair  for  my  father."  Again  the  Queen  expostulated 
when  at  her  table,  as  the  young  wife  and  mother  prepares  the  cup 
of  tea  for  her  noble-born  companion,  informing  her  "  the 
servants  should  render  such  service."  The  young  Princess 
replying,  says,  "  I  cannot  see  the  harm,  my  mother  pours  my 
father's  tea."  In  her  private  sitting-room  were  the  remains  of 
a  Christmas  tree,  with  its  decorations,  &c. ;  portraits  of  her 
mother's  family ;  the  bible  presented  to  her  by  the  young 
ladies  of  London,  ^nd  other  equally  unostentatious  mementoes- of 
home,  kindred  and  friends.  Her  own  handiwork  was  on  her 
husband's  writing  table,  being  an  alabaster  paper  weight  painted 
by  herself ;  a  drawing,  from  her  pencil,  of  their  infant  child  was 
pinned  to  the  wall.  And  this  room  of  the  future  King- of 
Prussia,  was  as  that  of  many  a  young  man  of  simple  habits 
and  taste.  Photographs  of  his  favorite  military  officers  ;  statu- 
ettes of  soldiers  upon  the  mantlepiece ;  his  guns  for  hunting  ; 
upon  his  desk,  memorandum  files  and  hol  lers,  and  under  it  a 
round  basket  for  his  waste  papers.    The  sim^Dlicity  of  his  toilet 


A  TREACHEEOUS  SURFACE. 


127 


was  expressed  by  the  sponge,  hair  and  tooth  brush,  be^des  a 
silver  ev/er  and  basin.  The  more  foriftal  drawing  room  was 
beautiful  in  its  upholstered  Avails  of  blue  damask  and  silver 
decorated  picture  frames.  English  attendants  as  steward  and 
ladies  maids  were  the  links  of  home  in  lano^ua^^e  and  associa- 
tions  to  the  future  Queen.  The  royal  pair  were  at  the  new 
palace,  as  it  is  termed,  two  miles  from  Pottsdam ;  the  noto- 
•  riety  of  which  consists  in  its  having  been  built  by  Frederick 
the  Great,  at  the  close  of  the  seven  years  war^  as  an  assurance 
that  the  treasury  was  not  exhausted  by  that  long  campaign. 
To  us  it  stands  prominently  in  memory,  containing  on  the  lower 
floor,  a  most  curious  and  elaborately  decorated  apartment,  the 
walls  of^which  were  covered  with  almost  every  variety  of 
marine  shells,  coral  and  precious  stones,  arranged  in  every 
variety  of^figure  and  diversity  of  color.  The  floors  in  the 
seventy-two  apartments  are  of  highly  polished  marbles  and 
wood.  And  while  the  adults  of  my  party  were  constantly 
annoyed  by  the  fears  of  falling  on  the  slippery  footing,  the  felt 
moccasins  (which  we  were  obliged  to  wear)  made  for  us,  the 
juveniles  were  experimenting  behind  the  backs  of  the  guides, 
in  the  variety  of  motion  skating  requires.  I  am  positive  I 
would  never  enter  the  lists  for  a  foot  race,  with  such  encum- 
brances, upon  such  a  treacherous  surface. 

Opposite  the  new  palace  near  Pottsdam  was  the  Guard  and 
Station  House  for  the  troops  attached  to  that  portion  of  the 
royal  family.  At  a  certain  hour  every  (fay,  the  band  con- 
nected with  the  regiment  played  in  front  of  the  building,  and 
the  infant  prince  was  exhibited  by  his  nurse,  from  an  open 
window  upon  the  fi4-st  floor.  The  detention  we  submitted  to  in 
being  among  the  curious,  to  see  this  child  of  royalty,  must  be 
attributed  to  the  curiosity  of  one  who  has  known,  in  all  its 
depths  of  tenderness  and  affection^  a  mother's  love  ;  and  in 
response  to  which,  the  devotional,  fervent  yearnings  of  child- 
hood's best  and  warmest  impulses  are  as  fresh  and  as  vigorous, 
even  in  the  strength  of  man  and  womanhood  as  in  the  earliest 


128 


A  summer's    travel  in  EUROPE. 


instir^cts  and  dependence  of  infancy.  Our  gazing,  however, 
was  upon  closed  shutters  and  solitary  windows.  For  some 
reason  our  Yankee  guessing  could  not  fathom,  the  young  scion 
of  a  kiiigdom's  destiny  was  not  exhibited  then  and  there.  But 
the  ramble  to  the  new  palace  is  a  digression  in  narrating  our 
day's  programme.  The  old  palace  was  next  in  order  ;  and  I 
remember  nothing  so  at  variance  with  the  ordinary  descriptions 
repeated  so  often,  and  so  threadbare,  as  to  detain  us  another, 
moment.  Perhaps  I  might  recall  the  "  Rittersaal,"  (or  Knight's 
Hall,)  containing  the  throne,  and  a  sideboard  of  mammoth 
size  and  dimensions,  covered  with  massive  gold  and  silver 
tankards,  goblets,  sah  ers  and  the  like,  whose  greatest  use  might 
be  in  illustrating  the  cost  of  royal  luxuries,  and  whose  gorgi:.ous 
display  were  equalled  by  the  "  Whitehall ;"  an  apartment 
whose  sumptuous  decorations  required  the  exp^diture  of 
$600,000!  The  old  structure  had  its  galleries  of  painting 
and  statuary. 

Our  next  visit  was  to  the  Museum.  If  this  most  valuable 
a"hd  interesting  collection  of  Roman  antiquities  in  bronze,  iron, 
&c.,  consisting  of  household  gods,  spears,  armour,  and  imple- 
ments of  M^ar  and  civil  life  ;  of  the  collection  of  nearly  three 
thousand  gems,  and  valuable  ancient  coins  ;  the  specimens  of 
the  painted  and  glazed  earthenware  of  the  lotli  and  16th 
centuries,  comprising  elaborately  worked  and  ornamental 
devices,  as  well  as  the  simpler  utensils  of  domestic  need  ;  the 
Sculpture  Gallery,  in  a  large  circular  hall  as  high  as  the 
building,  containing  statuary  of  the  ancient  and  moje  modern 
studios  ;  a  picture  gallery,  upon  whose  walls  are  choice  paint- 
ings of  almost  every  school,  if  this  collection  so  valuable  and 
interesting  had  not  its  representative  in  every  city  of  renown 
in  the  old  world ;  its  historian  in  every  traveller ;  and  was  to 
the  world  what  it  is  to  Bertin,  it  would  justify  a  copy  of  its 
entire  catalogue,  and  our  commissionaire  in  his  contemptuous 
shrug  and  denunciations  at  the  manner  in  which  we  passed 
through  its  halls,  and  exchanged  its  attractions  for  a  comfort- 
able chair  and  lunch  at  the  hotel. 


BERLIN  AND  ITS  ATTRACTIONS. 


129 


The  very  level  surface  of  the  country  traversed  by  the 
railway  from  Hamburg,  prepared  us  somewhat  for  the  flatness  r 
of  Berlin.  But  the  extent  of  this  levelness  was  not  appreciated, 
•until  we  observed  that  the  sewerage  of  the  city  was  impossible. 
In  "  Friedrick's  strasse,"  (street)  two  miles  in  extent,  and 
perfectly  straight,  there  is  not  a  descent  sufficient  to  relieve  it 
from  the  rain  as  it  falls.  Its  healtlifulness  must  be  affected 
unfavorably  in  summer  by  this  circumstance.  And  as  the  city 
is  located  in  the  centre  of  a  large  sandy  plain,  the  heat  must 
be  almost  intolerable.  NotwiUistanding'  these  disadvantages, 
which  might  be  supposed  sufficient  to  have  prevented  its 
foundation,  Berlin  is  one  of  the  most  agreeable  cities  in  its 
arrangement  and  detail,  I  recollect  upon  the  continent.  The 
streets  are  laid  out  at  right  angles.  The  buildings  (mostly  of 
brick  and  plaster)  are  very  fine  and  numerous.  The  city  is 
built  upon  a  most  tranquil  little  river,  completely  ignoring  its 
name,  "  The  Spree,"  intersected  by  numerous  canals,  which 
on  one  side  connect  it  with  the  Oder  and  the  Baltic,  and  on 
the  other  with  the  Elbe  ;  the  bridges.over  which  are  ornamented 
with  imposing  groups  and  single  statues. .  The  street  called 
"  Unter-den-Linden,"  (under  the  Lindens)  having  two  rows 
of  these  trees,  affords  ajiiost  agreeable  promenade  and  retreat 
from  the  summer's  sun  ;  terminated  at  the  east  by  the  grand 
square,  upon  which  fronts  the  Royal  Palace ;  the  Cathedral, 
remarkable  for  its  unsightly  exterior,  and  its  being  the  last 
depository  of  Royalty;  the  Royal  Museum,  a  beautiful  stmcture, 
in  front  of  which  is  a  higlily  polished  granite  basin,  twenty- 
two  feet  in  diameter,  cut  from  a  single  boulder,  ttirty  miles 
from  the  city ;  the  Royal  Arsenal,  unexceptionable  in  its 
architecture,  containing  a  hundred  thousand  stand  of  arms,  and 
with  many  other  relics,  two  leather  guns,  and  a  thousand  tro- 
phies, from  the  French  mostly,  whose  conquest  are  appropri- 
ately and  significantly  expressed  in  more  than  twenty  stone 
masks  above  the  windows  outside,  representing  the  distortions 
of  the  features  in  the  agonies  of  death  ;  the  University  of  high 


130 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


repute  for  the  superiority  of  its  professors  ;  the  Academy  of 
Fine  Arts,  and  opposite  to  which  (in  the  centre  of  the  street) 
is  the  noble  bronze  equestrian  statue  of  Frederick  the  Great, 
standing  upon  a  granite  pedestal  twenty-five  feet  in  height, 
having  upon  each  side  bronze  bas-reliefs  of  his  favorite  Gene- 
rals, and  other  groups,  numbering  in  all  thirty-one  life-sized 
portraits.  On  the  south  side  of  the  "  Unter-den-Linden,  and 
opposite  the  statue,  is  the  Palace  of  the  young  Prince  Frede- 
rick William,  (previously  referred  to,)  the  Royal  Opera 
House  and  the  residence  of  the  late  King  of  Prussia.  This 
enumeration  of  public  edifices  and  the  bronze  statue  gives  you  a 
very  imperfect  idea  of  the  beauty  of  the  grand  square  of  Berlin. 
There  are  other  fine  buildings  in  different  parts  of  the  city  ;  but 
as  they  were  not  visited  by  us,  their  enumeration  here  would 
require  a  more  free  use  of  "  Murray's  hand  book,"  than  is 
expedient  with  the  large  drafts  already  drawn  upon  his  fund 
of  historical  and  traveller's  notes.  There  was  one  manufactory 
w^hich  I  was  desirous  of  visiting,  but  memory  proved  treacher- 
ous in.relaining  it,  and  the.  opportunity  was  lost.  It  was  the 
Iron  Foundary,  at  which  the  chaste  and  delicate  ornaments  of 
"  Berlin  iron "  are  made.  At  the  Republican  outbreak  in 
1848,  the  foundary  was  much  injured,  and  works  and  models 
of  art  destroyed.  Murray  narrates  a  patriotic  incident  con- 
nected with  the  foundry,  which  may  interest  my  fair  readers. 
"  At  the  time  when  the  final  struggle  commenced  between 
Prusski  and  Napoleon,  the  patriotism  of  the  Prussian  ladies 
was  particularly  conspicuous.  With  the  noblest  ^generosity 
they  sent  flieir  jewels  and  trinkets  to  the  royal  treasury,  to 
assist  in  furnishing  funds  for  the  expense  of  the  campaign. 
Rings,  crosses,  and  other  ornaments  of  cast  iron  made  in  this 
manufactory,  were  given  in  return  to  all  those  w^ho  had  made 
this  sacrifice.  They  bore  the  inscription,  "  Ich  gab  Gold  urn 
Eisen,"  (I  gave  gold  for  iron,)  and  such  Spartan  jewels  are 
at  this  day  much  treasured  by  the  possessors  and  their  families." 
Dissolved  amber,  linseed  oil,  and  lampblack,  is  the  varnish 


A  ladies'  "  UNION." 


131 


used  on  these  fabrics.  It  should  be  a  source  of  the  greatest 
consolation  in  these  troublesome  times  of  disunion,  treason  and 
dishonor,  to  know  that  the  American  females,  (without  the  very- 
patriotic  emotions  of  the  Prussian  dames  and  damsels,  in  dis- 
pensing with  the  jewels  and  trinkets,  which  so  ostentatiously 
overlade  their  hands  and  arms,  as  well  as  the.  husband's  or 
father's  purse!)  are  yet  equal  to  the  Spartan  mothers  of 
history,  in  their  unflinching  determination  to  stand  up  for  the 
Union,  whenever  and  wherever  a  proper  opportunity  is  theirs. 
Theirs  is  no  miserable  policy  of  the  one  star  destiny  !  "  Union 
forever,  isolation  never  !"  is  their  rallying  to  the  conflict  of 
the  heart's  best  impulses.  Capitulation  here  means  njore  than 
conquest ;  and  misery  to  him  who  resists.  The  western  end 
of  the  "  Unter-den-Linden "  is  the  Brandenburg  Gate  ;  a 
very  fine,  imposing  structure  of  three  arched  passage  ways, 
for  •pedestrians  and  carriages.  It  is  surmounted  by  a  fine 
bronze  car  of  the  Goddess  of  Victory  drawn  by  horses  of  life 
and  spirit.  Napoleon,  in  his  insatiable  desire  to  concentrate 
every  thing  in  Paris,  making  the  kingdom  of  France  a  tribu- 
tary to  that  city,  his  victorious  armies  every  where  its  bene- 
actors  and  contributors,  carried  this  work  of  art  to  that  capitaL 
But  the  reverses  of  Waterloo  extinguished  alike  his  ability 
and  his  hopes,  and  the  Goddess  stands  again  in  her  beauty 
over  this,  the  principal  entrance  within  the  walls  of  Berlin. 
The  fortifications  which  enclose  the  city  are  twelve  miles  in 
circumference,  and  there  are  sixteen  other  gates  of  entrance. 


XVIII. 


AGREEABLE  COMPANIONS. 

Passing  through  the  Brandenburg  Gate  westwardly,  you 
enter  the  "  Thiergarten,"  (Park,)  a  delightful  retreai  and 
favorite  place  of  resort,  particularly  on  Sundays.  It  has  an 
area  two  miles  long  by  one  broad,  with  a  fine  growth  of  woods 
and  shrubbery,  and  containing  cleared  spaces  for  ponds,  restau- 
rants, &c.  "  Kroll's  winter  gardens "  are  also  within  its 
limits.  Not  far  distant  is  the  Zoological  Garden,  a  very  well 
arranged  and  quite  extensive  collection  of  animals,  birds,  and 
tjie  usual  collections  connected  with  those  interesting  and  in- 
structive institutions.  The  departure  for  home  of  one  of  our 
happy  circle  being  at  hand,  we  returned  to  the  hotel  for  an 
earlier  dinner.  Exchanging  sincere  assurances  of  friendship 
and  regret  at  separation,  our  young  friend  left  us,  arousing  the 
delightful  memories  of  the  past,  and  stimulating  the  anticipa- 
tions of  pleasure  which  we  knew  awaited  us,  when  again  the 
warm,  fond  grasp  of  friendship  and  affection  should  assure  us 
that  our  exile  was  finished. 

Thursday,  August  17th,  found  us  bending  o'er  our  trunks, 
not  always  manifesting,  I  fear,  that  equanimity  of  mind  •or 
correctness  of  expression  which  proves  an  absence  of  irrita- 
bility or  annoyance.    If  the  articles  of  our  wardrobe  could 


AGREEABLE  COMPANIONS.  ^  133 

have  spoken,  I  fancy  our  sensibilities  would  have  been  com- 
pelled to  have  heeded  their  expostulations,  and  to  have  answered 
the  very  reasonable  query,  if  we  supposed  it  possible,  after 
having  disarranged  the  very  neat  compact  folds  of  the  laundress 
to  have  placed  them  in  the  same  space  as  before  !  An  appeal 
for  sympathy  does  not  come  amiss  from  us,  when  made  to  those 
who  have  had  a  similar  experience  of  a  family's  living  in 
trunks  and  carpet  bags. 

At  11  A.  M.,  our  hotel  obligations,  servants'  fees,  commis- 
sionaire's services  having  been  acknowledged  and  cancelled, 
we  took  our  seats  in  the  cars  from  Berlin  t(^  Dresden,  a 
distance  of  twenty-five  German,  or  one  hundred  and  seventeen 
miles,  En^ish.  The  train  proved  to  be  the  opposite  of  an 
express,  so  far  as  progress  w^as  concerned.  And  to  this 
circumstance,  one  of  the  pleasantest  incidents  of  our  foreign 
rambles  owes  its  existence.  At  every  station,  for  half  the 
distance,  our  curiosity  had  been  excited  by  the  appearance  of 
a  family  in  the  nexi  compartment  to  the  one  we  occupied.  A 
large,  well-formed,  portly  gentleman,  of  middle  age,  dressed 
as  a  traveller,  (who  knew  the  luxury  of  a  proper  travelling 
outfit,)  evidently  a  man  of  the  world  ;  his  wife,  a  lady  in 
address -and  wardrobe,  of  medium  heifjit  and  figure;  two 
daughters,  as  we  supposed,  with  well  founded  pretensions  to 
good  looks  and  attractiveness,  with  those  jaunty  gipsey  hats, 
that  call  forth  commendations  of  no  disagreeable  nature,  (when 
the  wearers  have  not  forgotten  to  obscure  the  grey  tresses  or 
wrinkled  brows  which  they  would  rejuvenate  in  appearance  if 
possible,)  the  tout-ensemhle  of  our  neighbors  was  evidently 
English,  except  the  fr^e,  careless  manner  of  the  gentleman* 
So  many  a  repulse  fiad  I  met  in  the  casual  interchange  of 
ordinary  courtesy,  from  those  whose  ignorance  of  true  polite- 
nfess  made  them  fearful  of  compromising  the  little  dignity  they 
tried  to  assume,  but  did  not  possess,  that  for  a  long  time  we 
passed  and  repassed  our  fellow-travellers  without  any  recogni- 
tion. A  hap  hazard  remark  by  some  of  my  party  that,  "  the 
12 


134  A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 

train  would  be  a  slow  coacli  at  home,"  arrested  the  ^entleman^? 
attention,  and  he  very  promptly  addressed  me,  "  Sir,  allow  the 
inquiry  if  you  are  not  English?"  "  No,  sir,  we  are  from  the 
northern  part  of  the  United  States."  "  Ts  it  possible  I  am  so 
deceived  ;  I  have  taken  especial  pains  to  avoid  you,  for  I  am 
w'ell  aware  of  the  peculiarities  of  my  countrymen  when 
accosted  by  strangers.  I  am  an  Englishman,  but  the  most  of 
my  life  has  been  spent  in  the  East  Indies.  I  have  been  in 
your  country,  sir,  admired  the  energy  and  prosperity  of  your 
countrymen,  and  am  delighted  to  find  I  can  speak  to  some- 
body, without  the  fear  of  discourtesy  or  misapprehension."  A 
mutual  introduction  of  our  families  followed,  and  the  three 
weeks  successive  and  constant  intercourse  is  a  perfect  "  oasis  "  • 
in  our  German  experience.  This  family,  as  my  o^m,  were 
seeking  a  home  in  Dresden  for  a  year.  The  reputed  advantages 
of  the  schools  and  economical  expenses  for  housekeeping,  &c., 
together  with  the  invaluable  resources  for  musical,  scientific 
and  artistic  enjoyment  and  study,  had  attracted  their  attention 
as  well  as  ours.  It  may  be  a  bold  stroke  of  the  pen,"  but 
I  here  put  my  protest  upon  record  against  this  supposition,  and 
pronounce  it  an  impossibility.  I  was  told  it  was  possible  for  such 
a  family  as  mine  (wli^e  numbers  counted  six,)  to  live  as  com- 
fortable at  DrelRen  as  at  home,  (a  private  carriage  included,) 
for  twenty-five  hundred  dollars  per  year.  This  is  a  most 
egregious  error.  I  admit,  if  you  will  live  as  the  Germans  do, 
it  is  more  than  probable  the  statement  may  be  true.  For  what 
we  should  deem  indispensable  necessities,  they  would  call 
superfluous  luxuries.  And  upon  their  admitted  necessities,  we 
should  pine  and  pass  away  into  "  thin  air."  The  very  desk 
upon  which  I  am  w^ritmg,  would  contain  all  the  necessary 
culinary  arrangements  for  a  large  family's  living.  A  profes- 
sional cook  would  (ieem  it  an  insult  to  be  requested  to  take 
charge  of  a  German  kitchen  !  Stone  floors,  stone  ovens,  stone 
boiling  places  ;  all  stone  except  the  water,  and  that  is  hard 
enough  to  be.    If  I  were  to  invite  a  freshly  imported  native 


GERMAN  LIVING  AND  SCHOOLS. 


135 


of  those  parts  to  my  breakfast,  dinner  or  even  tea  table,  as 
ordinarily  arranged,  with  plain,  but  substantial  viands,  and 
inform  him  it  was  for  a  week's  repast,  he  might  question  the 
matter  of  taste  in^roviding  so  much  at  once.  But  tell  him  to 
take  his  seat  and  observe  the  very  simple  but  decided  annihila- 
tion of  the  superfluity  of  liberality  which  he  supposes  to 
exist,  and  his  appreciation  of  our  ability  for  consumption 
would  naturally  excite  in  his  mind  the  inquiry  of  the  ability 
in  the  land  of  production.  Give  him,  at  home,  a  vegetable 
soup,  sour-krout,  Bologna  sausage,  ham,  stale  bread,  beer  and 
the  pipe,  and  you  have  satisfied  his  greatest  idealties  of  good 
living.  I  speak,  of  course,  of  the  popular  habits  and  wants  of 
that  class  from  which  our  cook  must  have  been  taken,  and  for 
whom  the  Litany  (or  a  portion  of  it)  of  the*Episcop^  Church 
has  a  very,  significant  meaning.  The  schools  are  better  than 
ours,  so  far  as  they  require  a  mastery  of  the  foreign  languages, 
and  in  their  physical  training.  Scholars  generally  have  one 
hour's  study  in  some  department  of  learning;  then  fifteen 
minutes  of  gymnastic  exercise ;  study  again,  succeeded  by 
exercise,  until  the  hours  for  the  very  frugal  repast  or  needed 
rest  are  reached.  So  fariis  regards  thorough  drilling  in  the*  arts 
and  sciences,  the  foreign  schools  and  colleges  are  more  complete 
than  our  own.  They  require  longer  continuance  of  applica- 
tion. I  was  much  surprised,  however,  to  find  that  these  had 
been  overrated.  And  the  facilities  for  laboratory  and  philo- 
sophical investigations  are  not  to  be  compared  with  those  of 
the  institutions  at  home.  But  I  am  rambling  away  from  the 
railway  train  which  has  given  us  much  less  annoyance,  "  as  it 
drags  its  weary  length  along,"  at  a  snail's  pace,  since  our 
pleasant  interchange  of  courtesies  with  our  newly  found 
friends. 

At  8  P.  M.,  we  reached  the  "Neustadt"  terminus,  (new- 
town  station)  in  Dresden,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Elbe.  As 
recommended  by  the  German  branch  of  our  family,  we  drove 
to  the  "  Hotel  Bellevue  "  across  the  river,  accompanied  by 


136  A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 

our  English  friends.  Spacious  rooms,  refreshing  tea  drinking, 
and  no  ordinary  fatigue  of  travel,  brought  a  very  unanimous 
action  for  retirement.  Conscious  of  the  important  posi- 
tion we  were  placed  in,  iis  a  family's  health  and  prosperity 
depended  upon  the  judiciousness  of  our  arftngeraents  for  their 
year's  comfort,  the  morning's  dawn  found  us  ready  for  action. 
An  "  inspection  "  reported  all  fit  for  duty,  which  was  well 
discharged  at  the  bi'eakfast  table.  That  duty  done,  with  a  com- 
missionaire who  knew  the  city,  its  favorile  and  its  forbidding 
localities  for  families,  (through  the  long,  "  dreaiy  winter  of 
discontent,"  we  seemed  instinctively  to  feel  was  approaching,) 
and  a  carriage  from  the  hotel,  we  began  the  task  of  house- 
hunting. A  real  estate  agent  gave  us  one  list  of  some  twenty 
localities  ;  the  b^ffjkers  another,  and  our  English  friends  had 
theirs,  Afferent  from  our  own.  Agreeing  to  secure,  if  possible, 
accommodations  for  thenr  as  well  as  for  ourselves,  and  they 
reciprocating  the  favor,  We  traversed  the  streets  and  city  of 
Dresden  more  thoroughly  than  it  was  ever  done  before  for  a 
similar  purpose.  We  ascended  and»descended  stairs  as  though 
life's  destiny  was  upon  our  investigations.  And  when  apart- 
ments, v;hich  we  were  assured  were  most  beautiful,  airy,  clean 
and  neat,  were  shown  us,  suite  after  suite,  (although  we  ques- 
tioned the  meaning  of  the  words  clean  and  neat,  in  their 
application  to  the  rooms  we  saw,)  the  sight  of  the  six  inch 
ojDenings  in  the  stone  ovens,  and  cooking  apparatus ;  the  stone 
floors,  and  the  almost  desecration  of  the  word  "  kitchen,"  made 
us  sympathize  so  heartily  in  the  misgivings  of  ivhat  the 
cookery  must  be,  that  we  retraced  our  weary  steps  hotelward 
with  most  misanthropic  forebodings  of  what  would  be  our 
conclusion  of  the  whole  matter  1 

The  prices  of  rent,  per  year,  for  the  various  apartments 
(adapted  in  size  and  arrangement  to  my  family's  wants,)  which 
we  examined,  were  as  expensive  as  those  more  convenient  at 
home.  One  very  large  suite  we  proposed  to  divide,  and  made 
offers  of  that  nature  to  the  female  in  charge  of  them.  These 


RATIONAL  GRATIFICATION. 


137 


and  other  similar  negotiations,  are,  almost  without  exception, 
conducted  by  females.  The  property  as  a  general  fact  belongs 
to  some  titled  landlord  or  fortune  possessor,  and  the  contact 
between  landlord  and  tenant  is  a  rare  occurrence.  But  the  attend- 
ant, judging  from  the  revival  of  our  home  associations  .  which 
these  apartments  had  faintly  delineated  in  memory,  and  which 
lightened  the  dark  cloud  of  despondency  under  which  we  were 
moving,  was  inexorable.  "The  apartments  could  15e  had  then 
for  one  year,  no  less  time  or  terms  as  they  were,  and  no 
promise  to  Retain  them  for  to-morrow's  decision."  Our 
petulancy  at  her  firmness  for  once  was  well  timed,  as  the  event 
proved,  and  we  left  for  another  search  almost  as  important  as 
was  that  of  "  Celebs."  As  we  were  entering  the  carriage  we 
came  unftkpectedly  upon  our  English  friends,  who,  by  a  sin- 
gular coincidence,  had  found  similar  apartments  upon  an 
opposite  corner  of  the  same  street,  and  were  leaving  them  for 
the  same  cause  as  ourselves.  The  most  ardent  advocate  for 
fraternal  emotions  with  our  mother  England's  chMren,  would 
have  been  perfectly  content  with  the.  interchange  of  sympathy 
and  condolence  which  we  exchanged  with  our;  friends,  in 
opinions  of  the  too  active  imaginations  of  those  whose  represen- 
tations had  first  suggested  a  German  home  and  life.  Our 
return  to  the  hotel  for  dinner  was  a  relief  of  no  ordinary 
nature. 

After  dining,  we  attended  the  opera,  which  commenced  at 
7  o'clock  P.  M.  This  was  a  novelty !  To  go  from  the  dinner 
table  to  the  opera  ;  without  the  detail  of  full  dress  ;  to  find  a 
large,  well-dressed  audience,  so  unconscious  of  the  stiff  for- 
malities of  a  Royal  English  or  French  opera,  as  to  allow  of 
the  ladies  taking  their  worsted  and  knitting  work ;  to  hear 
such  combinations  of  harmony,  with  all  the  well-conceived 
and  well-managed  adjuncts  of  a  full  opera,  both  in  the  instru- 
mental and  vocal  departments,  and  in  the  dressing  and  scenic 
decorations ;  to  retire  dehghted  with  the  performance  at  nine 
•o'clock  of  a  summer's  eve ;  and  at  the  very  moderate  price  of 
12* 


138 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


"  a  thaler,"  (seventy -five  cents,)  for  the  best  select  seats ;  this 
experience  and  pleasure  was  in  advance  of  that  we  had  so 
favorably- realized  in  other  days  and  places.  It  fully  sustains 
our  honest  opinions  and  assertions  that  those  who  object  to 
these  places  of  amusement,  properly  conducted  and  arranged, 
are  bound  to  find  a  substitute,  the  influence  of  which  shall  be 
as  salutary  and  edifying,  or  else  cease  their  opposition.  The 
juvenile  members  of  my  family  never  sjDeak  of  this,  their  first 
acquaintance  with  the  inside  of  an  opera  house,  without 
expatiating  on  the  beauty  of  "  Der  Freischutz,"  as  they  then 
saw  its  performance  ;  and  referring  to  the  grandeur  of  the 
harmony,  which  gave  them  their  first  impressions  of  music's 
ennobling  power. 

I  must  begin  this  story  over  again  !  Nay,  my  faiiOfriend,  do  ^ 
not  frown  !  I  will  not  inflict  a  single  line  more  upon  your 
patience  in  so  doing,  but  do  now  what  1  should  first  have 
done,  (if  the  memories  of  those  stone  kitchens  did  not  haunt 
my  brain)  and  say  something  of  Dresden,  within  whose  limits 
I  have  en(re!avored  to  place  you  in  imagination  ;  so  that  we 
may  walk  its  streets  together  a  little  more  understandingly* 
The  city  is  not  as  Berlin,  enclosed  within  fortified  wdlls,  but 
similar  to  it  in  being  located  upon  a  river.  The  Elbe  running 
westwardly,  divides  the  place  into  two  parts  ;  the  "  Neustadt," 
(new  town)  being  uj^on  the  northerly  bank,  and  the  Dresden 
of  history  upon  the  opposite  one.  The  former  portion  of  the 
city  offers  superior  facilities  for  families  and  residences,  in  its 
newer  and  more  cheerful  aspect  and  buildings,  but  for  the  fact 
that  all  of  the  galleries,  opera  houses,  gardens  and  places  of 
interest,  (except  the  "  Japanese  Palace,")  are  upon  the  other 
side  of  the  Elbe,  and  access  to  them  is  over  the  old  bridge, 
the  only  one  for  carriages  and  pedestrians.  This,  in  fine 
weather,  ceases  to  be  an  objection.  But  our  crossing  it  in  a 
heavy  storm  of  wind  and  rain,  convinced  us  that  it  would  be 
an  impracticable  arrangement,  especially  in  winter ;  or  require 
a  seclusion  from  the  pleasures  of  music  and  art,  without  which 


DRESDEN,  NEW  AND  OLD. 


139 


the  shortest  residence  would  be  without  gratification.  The 
new  town  is  nearly  one-third  the  size  of  the  old.  The  streets 
are  more  regular,  open  and  airy.  Crossing  from  the  new 
town,  the  bridge  terminates  in  front  of  %e  "  Theatre  Platz," 
upon  the  northe^crly  corner  of  which  is  the  Catholic  Church  ; 
southerly,  and  next  to  it,  is  the  Royal  Palace.  For  the  base 
of  the  square  is  the  Zwinger  Palace  and  Gardens  ;  upon  the 
river  bank  the  Hotel  Bellevue ;  and  the  Theatre  occupies  the 
centre.  There  is  also  another  square  called  the  "New 
Market,"  upon  the  sides  of  which  are  the  "  Hotels  de  Saxe 
"  de  Pologne,"  "  British  Hotel,"  the  "  Stadt  Rome"  and  the 
"  Frauen  Kirche/'  (Church  of  our  Lady,)  while  the  centre  is 
occupied  by  the  venders  of  meats,  fish,  fowl,  fruits,  vegetables 
and  flowers,  which  occupancy  gives  the  square  its  name.  The 
buildings  of  Dresden  are  not  by  any  means  subjects  of  archi- 
tectural comparison  or  pretensions  with  most  of  the  other 
German  cities.  The  streets  are  narrow  and  generally  irregular. 
Yet  the  whole  city  gives  a  stranger  the  most  agreeable  and 
cheerful  impressions.  To  one  who  is  a  sojourner  for  a  few 
weeks,  I  know  of  no  place  where  the  associations  of  memory 
are  stronger  or  more  pleasurable.  But  to  those  who  enter 
into  the  details  of  an  examination,  adapted  to  a  more  perma- 
nent residence,  their  convictions  would,  I  fancy,  correspond 
with  our  own. 

I  plead  guilty  to  a  charge  of  no  ordinary  persistency,  when 
I  acknowledge  that  the  next  (Saturday),  morning  was  devoted 
to  another  hunting  expedition.  The  hotels  were  inspected  and 
other  quarters  found.  But  the  stern  reality  of  there  being 
"  no  place  like  home,"  was  constantly  impressed  upon  us.  "  A 
retreat  to  quarters "  was  issued  and  "  general  orders "  pro- 
mulgated, that  annihilated  without  the  fear  of  a  countermand 
all  probability  or  intention  of  passing  the  winter  away  from 
our  own  cheerful  fire-light  and  happy  hearth-stone.  Relief  to 
all  concerned  was  the  immediate  attendant  upon  our  decision, 
and  smiles  assumed  the  place  of  anxious  frowns. 


140 


A  summer's  travel    in  EUROPE. 


Sunday,  August  21st,  was  rainy  part  of  the  day,  but  the 
junior  members  of  our  party  attended  church.  In  the  after- 
noon a  sharp  knock  at  the  door  announced  a  messenger  from 
the  inexorable  hous»agent  of  the  day  previous,  who  came  to 
say  that  "  Madam  had  decided  to  accept  M3^heer's  proposition 
for  the  apartments,  as  to  a  division  of  them  upon  his  terms,  and 
that  he,  the  messenger,  had  come  to  secure  the  place  of  valet, 
would  bring  a  first-rate  cook  and  that — "  His  enthusiasm  at 
his  imaginary  good,  snug,  winter  quarters  was  most  coolly 
annihilated  by  a  rather  emphatic  annunciation  of  our  determi- 
nation of  returning  home  !  If  ever  a  Sunday  .was  a  day  of 
peace  and  rest,  that  was !  Next  morning  we  commenced 
doing  up  Dresden.  This  was  to  have  been  our  winter's 
occupation.  Now  it  was  for  a  week  or  two,  at  the  farthest. 
Our  English  friends  had  come  to  the  same  conclusion,  and  had 
preceded  us  in  a  visit  to  the  Museum  in  the  "  Zwinger."  This 
building  was  intended  as  a  monumental  entrance  to  a  palace 
of  magnificent  pretensions,  which  was  to  have  been  built  by 
the  Emperor  Augustus  in  the  early  part  of  the  eighteenth 
century.  It  contains  the  Historical  and  Natural  History 
Museums.  The  former  has  a  very  interesting  collection  of 
ancient  and  more  modern  armour,  some  of  which  was  of 
exquisite  workmanship  ;  fire  arms  of  every  age,  country  and 
description,  among  which  was  a  short  gun  or  heavy  pistol, 
making  questionable  the  originality  of  the  invention  of  Colt's 
revolver  ;  old  furniture,  as  chairs,  cabinets,  embroidery,  &c. ; 
drinking  cups,  goblets  and  horns  ;  and  in  fact  almost  every 
representation  of  the  beautiful  or  useful,  from  early^ages  to 
modern  dates,  enabling  the  student  or  amateur  to  read  the 
indications  of  progress  more  effectually  than  from  the  pages  of 
type  in  describing  them.  The  men  of  the  true  chivalric  age 
and  temperament,  must  have  been  more  muscular  than  the 
ordinary  representatives  of  humanity,  of  our  day  and  times. 
The  weight  of  the  suits  of  armor  shown  us,  belonging  to 
different  persons  of  distinction,  would  puzzle  many  a  muscle  of 


KNIGHTS  OF  YORE. 


141 


modern  manhood  to  lift,  saying  nothing  of  wearing  it,  and  with 
it  doing  renowned  service.  And  the  competitors  of  the 
tournanient  were  well  worthy  of  the  boons  of  female  beauty 
and  worth.  The  valiant  knights  of  yore  were  no  craven 
cowards  or  fanatical  traitors  to  a  noble  birthright.  Theirs  was 
true  chivalry.'  Modern  misapplication  of  terms  desecrates  the 
noble  sentiment,  and  attempts  the  mad  task  of  encircling  it 
around  the  traitor's  brow ! 


HAHNEMANN." 


As  arranged  the  evening  previous  with  our  English  friends, 
Thursday,  August  23d,  was  appropriated  to  an  excursion  to 
Meissen,  where  the  manufactory  of  the  beautiful  Dresden 
China  is  located.  The  sail  down  the  river  Elbe  was  very 
pleasant,  although  the  scenery  is  not  retained  in  memory's 
impressions  as  being  particularly  attractive  or  impressive* 
The  town  is  upon  a  hill  of  moderate  elevation  from  the  river? 
which  makes  it  picturesque,  and  contains  about  five  thousand 
inhabitants.  It  was  an  object  of  more  interest  to  us  than  we 
had  supposed,  as  in  passing  from  the  steamer  to  the  hotel,  a 
large,  unostentatious  stone  edifice  of.  three  stories,  near  the 
outskirts,  arrested  our  steps  and  attention,  by  a  sign  attached 
to  the  front,  informing  the  pas^s  by,  that  in  this  humbly 
constructed  dwelling,  "  Hahnemann,"  the  founder  of  Homeo- 
pathy, was  born.  An  earnest  effort  was  made  to  see  .the 
interior,  by  solicitations  to  and  through  the  blacksmith,  whose 
shop  was  in  the  southeast  corner,  lower  room.  But  for  our 
numbers,  the  request  might  have  been  granted.  As  it  was, 
the  family  occupying  the  apartments  were  out,  or  some  other  un- 
intelligible reason  prevented — as  the  "  being  out  "  was  evidently 
a  fashionable  meaning  to  the  words,  for  white  heads  and  rosy 


"  ArPEAHANCES  DECEITFUL." 


143 


cheeks  were  visible  through  the  windows.  Hahnemann's 
"  birthplace "  is  no  ignoble  object  of  attraction  and  respect . 
Whatever  may  be  the  popular  feeling  regarding  his  system  and 
theory,  one  thing  is  certain.  Homeopathy,  in  its  existence,  has 
reduced  the  quality,  and  quantity  of  doses  prescribed  or  taken. 
Every  other  system  has  acknowledged  this  in  its  practice  and 
progress.  *j\nd  if  no  other  result  attends  its  origin,  humanity 
will  still  bless  its  founder,  for  relieving  the  sick  room  of  its 
most  nauseous  accompaniments,  and  the  human  system  from  a 
stern  conflict  with  the  powerful  mineral  agents  formerly  so 
freely  and  frequently  administered. 

An  animated,  cheerful  aspect  characterized  the  streets  and 
houses  of  Meissen,  as  we  came  to  the  more  compact  parts  of* 
the  town.  Evergreens  and  oaken  leaf  wreaths,  arches  and 
festoon  were  suspended  from  almost  every  house,  and  across 
every  street.  Flags  and  banners  were  intermingled  with  them, 
and  the  whole  appearance  of  the  place  was  that  of  pleasure 
and  festivities.  It  was  the  annual  fete  of  the  "  Vogel-Schies- 
sen,"  (or  bird  shooting  festival,)  as  authorized  by  law.  The 
principal  hotel,  the  "  Sonne,"  did  not  promise  a  very  tempting 
bill  of  fare  for  dinner,  in  its  exterior  of  stone  masonry,  pierced 
by  rows  of  small  windows  in  the  three  stories  ;  its  solid  arched 
door-way,  the  only  entrance  to  the  "  accommodations  for  man 
or  beast ;"  and  the  most  annoying  tardiness  in  the  response  to 
the  big-cracked  dinner,  or  jointless,  wired  hostlers'  bells.  But 
appearances  were  deceitful  here,  as  elsewhere  in  life.  The 
brightest,  clearest  dawn,  is  not  always  the  sure  harbinger  of  a 
faultless  day ;  or  a  sombre  clouded  morning  the  unfailing 
indicator  of  a  sunless  one.  The  enigmas  one  meets  with  in  life, 
many  times  disperse  to  the  cold  chills  of  disappointment,  the 
warmest  impulses  and  yearnings  of  the  true,  heartfelt  anticipa- 
tions of  earnest  happiness.  While  in  the  darkest  hours  of 
hopelessness,  a  sunbeam  of  love  and  sincerity,  of  unrealized 
joy  or  unknown  integrity,  is  patiently  and  sincerely  awaitmg  our 
consciousness  of  its  presence  !   But  I  believe  we  are  in  the 


144 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


Meissen  for  the  purpose  of  examining  the  porcelain  manufactory! 
Follow  then  the  guide  who  takes  us  first  to  the  "  Dom,"  (or 
Cathedral)  a  fine  specimen  of  the  GHothic  architecture,  with  its 
open  work  spire  of  gracefulness  and  beauty  ;  painted  glass  win- 
dows containing  portraits  of  Martin  Luther,  his  wife,  and  his 
friend  the  Elector;  well  wroupjht  and  elaborate  effif>;ies  in  bronzed 
brass,  of  the  members  of  the  Royal  and  Ducal  line  of  Saxony 
here  buried ;  a  stone  sacramental  table  elaborately  cut ;  and  a 
door ^f  large  size  carved  in  wood.  The  church  dates  back  to 
the  thirteenth  century.  The  porcelain  manufactory  is  in  the 
old  castle,  (connected  with  the  church,)  built  upon  a  high 
precipitous  rock,  as  we  found  to  our  sorrow,  when  stair  after 
stair  and  step  after  step  revealed  to  us  the  fact  that  although 
entering  the  regions  of  space,  the  weight  of  our  humanity  kept 
increasing,  and  breath  and  muscle  gave  strong  indications  of 
secession.  The  prospect  from  the  bridge  which  connects  the 
castle  with  the  town  was  very  fine,  looking  westward  upon  a 
well  cultivated  rural  district ;  the  views  North,  East  and  South, 
up  and  down  the  river  and  across  the  country  of  the  opposite 
bank,  gradually  dispelling  the  lingering  sensations  of  our 
fatigue  in  its  attractiveness.  The  Church  and  Castle  were 
appropriated  to  the  Saxon  Princes  of  former  days,  for  the 
duties  and  details  of  religion  and  domestic  life.  You  enter 
the  ware  room  of  the  manufactory,  where  sample.'?  of  every 
kind  and  quality  of  porcelain  are  kept  for  exhibition  and  sale. 
And  if  I  should  recount  the  many  times  my  purse  strings  were 
opened  for  the  purchase  of  this,  then  another,  and  closed  again 
as  often,  until  "what  shall  we  buy?"  involved  a  wish  to 
purchase  the  whole,  it  might  prove  how  beautiful  and  exqui- 
*  site  was  the  variety,  cost  and  finish  of  the  specimens  around 
us.  Indecision  forced  us  to  leave  all  purchases  until  our  return 
from  the  manufactory,  which  is,  I  think,  the  oldest  establishment 
in  Eur^e.  Following  again  the  guide  up  two  large,  cork- 
screw stairways,  we  entered  apartments  whose  ceiling  seemed 
as  far  above  in  associations  as  they  were  in  fact,  the  plebeian 


SIMPLICITY  OF  PRODUCTION  OF  THE  BEAtTTlFUL.  145 

occupation  of  the  workers  of  clay ;  and  were  the  last  emblems 
of  royalty  in  the  building.    The  room  where  the  clay  is  first 
prepared  by  mixture  with  other  materials,  to  give  it  hardness 
or  brilliancy,  was  not  shown  to  strangers ;  but  when,  in  the 
form  of  paste,  it  is  conveyed  to  workmen  in  the  other  apartments, 
the  process  is  open  to  examination.  The  "  potter's  wheel "  is,  I 
suspect,  the  first  and  siniplest  application  of  power  ever  known. 
Its  upper  table  sui'face  is  from  eighteen  to  twenty-four  inches  in 
diameter,  and  supported  by  the  end  of  a  vertical  axle,  the 
lower  end  of  which  resta^on  a  plank  or  block.    At  a  con- 
■wenient  distance  from  the  workman's  foot  is  a  second  tabular 
plfitform  of  a  larger  size  corresponding  to  the  one  above.  The 
workman  sits  upon  a  short  wooden  bench,  places  the  paste  in  a 
moistened  lump  upon  the  round  table  before  him,  and  with  his 
feet  gives  it  a  rotary  motion  by  pushing  upon  the  lower  platform 
or  wheel.    This  motion  is  increased  to  an  incredible  speed  by 
practice,  or  reduced  to  a  stationary  position,  as  the  wdll  or 
necessity  of  the  operator  requires.    The  mass  is  gathered  into 
an  upright  form,  and  by  inserting  the  thumb  of  the  right 
hand  into  the  top,  is  converted  into  a  cylindrical  shape  ;  then 
again  compacted,  separated  and  thus  alternately  worked,  until 
the  air  is  totally  expelled  from  it.    This  accomplished,  the 
potter,  with  his  hands,  and  a  small  stick,  begins  the  develop- 
ment of  his  subject.    The  most  beautiful,  artistic  forms  of 
pitchers,  goblets,  vases,  and  every  fanciful  work  of  art  are 
thus  simply  produced,  the  greatest  auxiHary  being  the  rotary 
motion  of  the  wheel.    Plates,  dishes  and  the  more  ordinary 
formed  articles  of  luxury  or  utility  are  pressed  in  moulds.  The 
exquisite  leaves  of  flowers  and  similar  decorations  are  formed 
in  dies  of  metal  or  wood,  according  to  the  superiority  or  deli- 
cacy required  in  their  delineation.     Forms  of  grace  and 
originality  are  made  by  the  use  of  a  sharp  stiletto  formed 
instrument.    And  in  the  most  recherche  productions,  the  paste 
is  used,  in  a  semi-liquid  state,  with  camel's  hair  pencils.  The 
lace  embroidery  which  is  so  beautiful  and  delicate  on  porce- 
13 


146  A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 

lain,  is,  in  truth,  the  fabric  itself,  clipped  in  liquid  paste. 
Paintings  of  fruits  and  flowers,  or  a  landscape,  are  the  work 
of  educated  artists  ;  painted  after  the  first  baking  or  hardening 
of  the  clay.  The  gold  bands  are  burnished  to  brightness,  by 
means  of  a  glass  or  highly  polished  steel  instrument.  The 
process  of  baking  in  the  immense  ovens ;  the  disagreeable 
atmosphere  which  pervaded  the  whole  establishment ;  the 
artizans,  male  and  female,  appearing  pale  and  hard  worked? 
with  a  limited  stipend  compared  to  our  own  happier  class  ^f 
citizens  at  home  ;  the  natural  dil^pation  of  surprise  at  the 
cost  of  these  productions,  after  witnessing  these  various  prqp 
cesses  in  detail ;  these  and  other  associations  of  the  place  a^d 
business,  can  be  readily  conceived  and  much  more  agreeably,  I 
have  no  doubt,  than  an  attempted,  but  unsuccessful  description. 
*  The  day  spent  at  Meissen  was  profitable  as  well  as  pleasant. 
The  fear  of  prolixity  (or  rather  the  inability  of  descriptive 
talent)  prevents  as  full  an  account  of  the  various  manipulations 
by  which  the  shapeless  masses  of  clay  were  converted  into 
works  of  beauty  and  art,  as  would  be  either  agreeable 
or  intelligible  to  my  readers.  Perhaps  the  greatest  surprise 
to  us  was  in  the  proficiency  of  talent  requisite  for  such  pro- 
ductions. Returning  by  the  same  steamer  as  in  the  morning's 
sail,  our  hotel  quarters  were  reached  with  almost  the  sensations 
of  home  !  A  fine  sky,  the  next  morning,  confirmed  our  inten- 
tions of  a  trip  to  the  "  Saxon  Switzerland."  This  is  a  district  of 
country  entirely  dissimilar  from  its  surroundings.  Whoever 
anticipates  a  realization  of  the  grandeur,  awe,  majesty  and  the 
more  sublime  manifestations  of  Omnipotence  as  in  Switzerland 
proper,  will  be  disappointed,  and  cavil  at  the"  propriety  of  the 
name.  But  to  a  mind  susceptible  of  the  beauties  and 
loveliness  of  nature,  the  excursion  will  place  a  rich  fund 
of  pleiasure  in  the  retrospections  of  "  by-gone  days."  The 
characteristics  of  this  section  of  Saxony,  are  boldness,  wildness 
and  beauty.  The  very  peculiar  formations  of  the  dark  grey 
rocks,  standing  in  bold  projecting  cliffs,  whose  angles  are 


"harmony  of  nature." 


147 


rounded  with  a  precision  almost  baffling  the  thought  of 
nature's  unaided  effort ;  standing  tower-like,  solitary  and 
alone,  to  the  height  of  five  and  seven  hundred  feet ;  with 
strata  and  layers  as  regularly  and  correctly  defined  as  if  the 
most  skillful  art  had  left  its  impress  there  ;  furnish  incon- 
testable proofs  to  the  truthfulness  of  Geology,  in  its  theory  of 
the  passage  of  currents  of  such  weight  and  might,  as  to  wear 
their  regularly  defined  channels  and  courses  alike  through  the 
massive,  impenetrable  rock  as  in  the  varied  soils  of  hill  and 
dale.  The  laws  of  gravitation  are  most  strangely  developed 
here,  where  the  base  of  the  rock  may  assume  the  form  and 
strength  of  an  inverted  cone,  while  the» ponderous  top  over- 
hanging on  every  side,  seems  equally  as  susceptible  of  the 
power  of  the  gentlest  breeze,  or  the  wind's  mad  rush  to  disturb 
its  well  poised  balance.  The  cone-like  fir-tree  alone  venturing, 
in  its  comparative  diminutiveness,  to  erect  its  height  and  foliage 
^  in  contrast  with^the  grandeur  which  could  not  tolerate  its 
presence,  only  as  the  beauty  of  comparison  in  its  freshness 
and  verdure,  makes  more  strong  the  stern,  sad  hue  of  nature's 
wildness.  ^ 
The  view  from  the  "  Bastei,"  looking  from  an  elevation  of 
six  hundred  feet,  overhanging  its  rocky  base,  as  you  step 
forward  to  its  most  prominent  projection — clutching,  with  a 
nervous  grasp,  the  iron  balustrade  which  securely  protects 
you, — this  view,  where  the  "  Elbe  "  with  its  mirror-like  surface 
as  calm  and  unrufiled  as  the  slumbers  of  innocence,  winds 
around  the  base  of  rocks  and  sterile-capped  hills,  is  more 
'beautiful  than  language  can  describe.  The  railway,  with  its 
serpent-like  track,  coursing  its  unbroken  lines,  through  fields  of 
plenty  and  verdancy  ;  the  stations  and  the  artistic  grouping  of 
buildings  as  viewed  from  so  bold  a  stand  point ;  the  barren, 
sombre  mountains  of  Bohemia,  darker  and  more  stern  in  the 
distant  horizon,  against  the  soft  blue  sky  ;  the  murmuring  of  the 
summer  breeze,  so  gentle  in  its  melody,  as  if  unwilling  to  disturb 
the  perfect  harmony  of  nature  in  which  you  breathe  ;  the  distant 


148 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


clink  of  the  workman's  hammer,  as  stroke  after  stroke  displaces 
the  rock,  and  in  regulated  causeways  sends  it  to  the  river  for 
the  utilitarian  demands  of  life  and  action ; — this  quiet  so  felt,  this 
beauty  so  realized,  I  renew,  as  memory  so  vividly  paints  afresh 
the  scene  from  "  Bastei."  But  the  shrill  screech  of  the  steam 
whistle  broke  the  enchantment  then ;  and — the  appeals  for 
charity  ;  comments  by  an  Editor  upon  the  state  of  the  country  ; 
a  dozen  papers  in  the  hands  of  patriots  disinterestedly  seeking 
offices  ;  questions  by  a  correspondent  for  a  public  journal ;  pre- 
sentation of  a  bill,  (to  an  empty  purse  !)  and  similar  facts 
and  faces  have  brought  me  back  to  reality  and  the  conscious- 
ness that  "  Saxon  Switzerland  "  is  many  thousand  miles 
away ;  and  that  the  kind  arrangements  of  an  affectionate  hand 
for  bodily  comforts  will  be  frustrated,  by  my  unconscious 
ramble  and  forgetfulness  of  the  dinner  hour !  "  How  do  you 
get  there  ?"  "  How  far  is  it  ?"  These  are,  T  confess,  very 
practical  questions,  and  now  that  I  can  J[)ring  what  little 
of  practical  skill  I  may  possess  out  of  my  reverie,  I  will  try 
and  answer  them. 

^  We  left  the  Hotel  Bellevue  (a  party  of  eleven)  at  8|  A.  M., 
on  Wednesday,  August  24th ;  took  the  cars  of  the  Prague 
railway  for  Potscha  station,  a  ride  of  some  twenty  miles  or 
more ;  crossed  the  Elbe  in  a  small,  open  boat  to  "  Wehlen,"  a 
small  village  from  which  the  tourists  procure  guides,  donkeys, 
ponies,  and  "  chaises-a-porteur,"  (porter's  chairs.)  As  a 
large  number  of  excursionists  were  also  en  route,  we  anticipated 
difficulty  in  having  our  party  accommodated.  But  patient 
waiting  has  its  reward,  and  with  eight  ponies  and  three  porter's 
chairs  for  the  ladies,  we  started.  Our  guide  was  a  most  capital 
fellow.  I  am  sorry  I  have  lost  his  name  ;  but  his  "  ai-le-o, 
ai-ly-u,"  in  that  pecuHar  Tyrolean  modulation  of  voice,  by 
which  echoes  among  the  hills  and  rocks  so  promptly  and 
clearly  responded  to  his  call,  have  impressed  his  face  and 
form  too  clearly  upon  the  minds  of  all,  to  forget  him  or  his 
faithful  services.    The  established  fees  for  a  guide  are  one 


VARIETIES  OF  TRAVEL  AND  INCIDENTS.  149 


thaler  (seventy -five  cents,)  per  day  ;  any  oth^r  ^douceurs  you 
may  offer,  will  not  be  repulsed. 

After  two  or  three  hours  of  riding  and  walking  through  the 
village  of  Lohmen,  a  poorly  appearing  locality ;  through  the 
deep  gorges  called  "  Liebethaler  and  Ottowalder  Grund," 
where  perpendicular  rocks  of  great  height,  enclose  the  narrow 
pathway  between  their  sides,  so  narrow  that  you  pass  singly  J 
examining  "  Das  Thor,"  ^  gateway  where  three  masses  of 
rock  in  falHng  have  become  so  interlocked  as  to  form  a  perfect 
cover ;  the  stone  house,  a  deep,  dark  recess  of  rocks  whose 
roof  is  almost  a  fac-simile  of  that  of  a  house  ;  passing  through 
"  Teufel's  Kiiche,"  (Devil's  Kitchen.)  where  our  ignorance  of 
any  fact  connected  with  its  name,  rendered  us  incompetent 
judges  of  its  appropriateness  ;  stopping  at  the  miller's  house, 
where  good  lager  bier,  with  cakes,  offered  an  opportunity  to 
retrieve  any  neglect  or  want  of  appreciation  of  breakfast ; 
smiling  at  the  artificial  fall  made  by  the  miller's  boy  from  the 
little  mill-dam,  as  he  opened  the  sluice-ways  to  allow  a  limited 
quantity  of  water  to  pass  over  the  rocks  and  through  the 
gorge  ;  seeing  the  miller's  boy  frown  when  the  guide  paid  his, 
fees  and  not  ourselves,  why,  we  could  easily  guess  ;  mounting 
again  our  ponies  ;  encouraging  our  friends  whose  inability  for 
locomotion  has  for  many  years  proved  a  sore  restriction  on 
their  pleasure  or  exercise,  and  whose  sympathy  for  the  porters 
exceeded  the  caution  of  fatigue  or  the  necessity  for  self-regard  ; 
galloping  forward  to  enquire  if  the  somerset^  ^vhich  the  youngest 
of  our  juveniles  performed  in  the  air,  (as  his  pony  reversing  the 
laws  of  nature,  placed  his  heels  higher  than  his  head)  "  if  the 
fall  hurt  him  ?"  commending  the  pluck  that  placed  him  again  in 
the  saddle,  with  the  conviction  that  the  "  fellow  could  not  do 
that  again ;"  these,  and  a  rapid  succession  of  events,  minor 
as  the  particles  of  light  perhaps,  to  my  readers,  but  each 
significant  in  itself  to  ue  as  they  occurred,  marked  ou^rogress, 
until  emerging  from  a  steep  ascent  most  thickly  woodeA||he 
hotel  at  "  Bastei,"  changed  our  associations  .and  most  vivid  ly 
13* 


150 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


reminded  us  that  we  left  Dresden  many  hours  previous;  had 
walked  and  ridden  many  miles ;  endured  a  large  amount  of 
fatigue,  and  as  yet  had  heard  no  dinner  bell ! 

The  instinctive  love  of  music,  with  the  Germans,  is  one  of 
the  most  agreeable  traits  of  their  character.  And  "  a  native 
to  the  manor  born  "  may  well  question  his  ancestry's  nation- 
ality should  he  be  insensible  of  this  passion,  or  unable  to 
develop  it  by  a  proficiency  upon  oift  instrument  or  another. 
The  characteristic  feature  of  their  festivities  is  music.  And 
hence  we  were  not  surprised,  but  gratified  to  find  a  very 
respectable  band  of  musicians,  as  to  numbers  and  talent,  con- 
tributing to  the  delights  of  "  Bastei."  • 

After  dinner  we  returned  to  the  beautiful  pro§pect ;  and  the 
strong  defiant  lines  of  "  Lilienstein  "  and  "  Konigstein,"  rising 
in  sterility  and  majesty,  with  perpendicular  sides  above  the 
pyramidical  base  ;  looking  down  into  the  dense  foliage  of  the 
fir  trees  so  thickly  growing  beneath  us  ;  across  to  the  pin- 
nacled rocks,  whose  pointed  peaks  and  precipitous  and  craggy 
outlines,  rendered  the  story  of  the  robbers'  retreats  among 
them,  more  than  fabulous,  although  an  historical  reaUty  ;  con- 
trasting the  simple  form  of  the  arched  passage  ways  of  masonry, 
from  one  to  the  other,  with  the  bold  delineations  of  Omnipo- 
tence, we  reluctantly  answered  the  summons  of  our  guide,  and 
descending  by  a  different  route  from  that  we  came,  sunset 
found  us  at  the  very  comfortable  hotel  "  Dampschiff,"  upon 
the  Elbe,  in  the  quiet  village  of  Schandau. 


XX- 

SCENERY  ON  THE  ELBE. 

The  location  of  our  quarters  in  the  hotel  at  Schandau^pe- 
minded  us  of  those  at  Lucerne  two  years  previous,  although 
differing  in  the  water  view  both  presented,  the  one  being  that 
of  Swiss  lake  scenery^  the  other  that  of  the  Elbe  with  steamers 
passing  up  and  down,  and  the  railway  track,  engines  and  cars 
upon  the  western  bank.  After  a  refreshing  cold  bath,  (the 
luxury  of  many  years'  enjoyment,  in  its  daily  reality,)  we 
appreciated  the  beauties  around  us  from  the  window  bal- 
cony, scanning  with  all  the  assured  rights  of  an  earlier 
arrival  at  the  hotel,  passengers  from  the  steamboats  or  cars 
opposite,  who  T^re  beginning  the  tour  of  the  Swiss  scenery 
from  the  point  where  we  should  leave  it ;  tracing  the  beautiful 
bold  outline  of  the  hill  opposite,  as  its  dark  rough  summit 
threw  its  shadows  and  shades  from  the  soft  pure  light  of  the 
setting  sun ;  criticising  with  a  home-born  curiosity  the  guests 
of  the  neighboring  hotels ;  wondering  if  the  proprietor  or 
cook  knew  what  objects  of  our  most  anxious  regard  they  were, 
and  had  been  for  the  past  hours ;  and  answering  most  promptly 
the  welcome  tones  of  the  tea  bell,  we  were  soon  again  in  trim 
for  the  next  subject  of  interest,  fate  or  fortune. 

m 


152 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


At  tea,  with  one  of  those  most  obsequious  smiles  which  the 
proprietor  of  a  continental  hotel  always  dispenses  to  his  foreign 
guest,  (especially  if  he  has  ladies  with  him,)  our  landlord 
came  to  us  asking  "if  it  would  be  agreeable  for  the  ladies  to 
remain  below,  for  an  exhibition  of  fireworks  in  the  evening^ 
to  be  discharged  in  honor  of  your  arrival  ?"  Was  it  possible 
that  the  fame  of  a  limited  official  station  could  have  reached 
these  far  remote  banks  of  the  Elbe !  In  honor  of  your  arri- 
val !"  The  master  of  the  house  certainly  said  so  !  Modesty, 
(that  so  frequently  mantles  my  cheeks  of  alabaster  tint,  with 
the  cruel  red  rush  from  nature's  reservoir  !)  suggested  "  per- 
haps your  gentlemanly  friend  and  most  agreeable  companion 

V  may  excel  you  in  rank,  as  he  does  in  his  portly 

physical  developments  ?"  No,  the  host  looked  at  me,  "  in 
honor  of  your  arrival!"  So,  with  all  the  remains  of  the 
litUb  dignity  ever  possessed,  I  replied,  we  wjU  have  the  fire- 
works !  They  were  a  most  successful  sham  !  No,  not  that; 
fer  when  my  bill  was  settled  the  next  morning,  the  fireworks, 
"  in  honor  of  your  arrival,"  was  charged  at  a  sum  which  would 
have  called  forth  protracted  expressions  of  indignant  surprise 

if  friend  V  had  not  claimed  an  equal  share  of  the 

distinction  and  the  bill.  If  that  jaunty  straw  hat  which 
covered  a  pair  of  blue' eyes,  flaxen  tresses,  pleasing  features 
and  an  agreeable  naivete,  was  as  near  me  now  as  when  in  the 
flower  garden  I  asked  for  but  did  not  get  "  a  rose  bud,"  I  would 
assure  her  that  the  one  which  did  come  in  a  note  from  her 
father,  from  beyond  the  seas,  with  his  assurance  that  "  it 
was  not  a  gage  d'amour,"  was  not  so  received  by  me.  I  am 
sure  the  man  was  mistaken.  Some  poor  misanthrope  would 
ask  the  young  lady's  age  ?  if  I  was  alone  ?  ever  married  ?  and 
a  thousand  other  most  singidar  and  obtrusive  questions  !  True, 
there  was  some  disparity  of  years,  and  my  ivife,  daughter  and 
sons  were  with  me ;  but  never  mind,  the  rose  bud  came, 
and  

In  carriages  our  party  left  next  morning,  after  a  little  occur, 
rence  which  came  in  most  appropos  to  obliterate  the  fireworks. 


WILDNESS  AND  BEAUTY. 


153 


Our  walking  sticks  and  nice  French  umbrellas,  strapped 
together,  could  not  be  found  as  the  carriages  were  starting.  As 
I  had  taken  them  myself  to  the  rooms  the  evening  previous,  I 
returned  for  them,  but  "  presto  change,"  they  had  gone. 
Chambermaids,  servants,  waiters,  porters  were  all  summoned 
to  account  for  this  abstraction.  They  all  denied  our  ever 
having  them,  one  took  this  parcel,  another  took  that,  &c.,  and 
so  on.  But  an  honest,  unsophisticated  girl  came  running  down 
stairs  with  the  stray  traps,  and  said  she  found  them  outside  the 
window,  behind  the  balcony  blinds. 

The  drive  up  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  "Kirnitch"  to  the 
"  Haidemuhle  "  was  very  delightful.  We  here  mounted  other 
ponies,  (as  the  day  previous,)  and  soon  arrived  at  the 
^'.Kuhstall "  (CowstalL)  This  is  a  natural  arch  forty  feet  in 
width,  thirty  in  height  and  nearly  one  thousand  feet  above  the 
sea  letel.  Passing  under  the  arcff,  you  are  upon  a  terrace-formed 
.  rock,  commanding  f  most  beautiful  view  of  the  valley  at  your 
feet.  It  was  not  as  lovely  as  that  of  "  Bastei,"  possibly  because 
the  latter  gave  us  our  first  impressions,  but  still  the  scene  was 
beautiful  and  varied.  The  arched  rock  has  its  name  from  the 
habit  of  the  peasantry,  during  the  Thirty  Years  War,  in  driving 
their  cattle  here  for  protection.  There  are  c'aves  of  historical 
interest,  as  retreats  for  the  females  in  time  of  persecution.  A 
strange,  wild  place  in  its  associations  and  existence.  A  deep 
path,  burdened  with  sand  and  rock,  descends  from  here  and  as 
abruptly  ascends  to  the  "  Lesser  Winterberg,"  a  platform 
rock  from  which  you  seej  as  a  diminutive  gateway,  the 
"  Kuhstall,"  and  look  upon  a  scejie  of  wildness,  ruggedness 
and  grandeur,  far  down  among  the  rocks  and  the  evergreen, 
tenacious  fir  tree.  Mounting  in  the  saddle  again,  youf^ascend 
to  the  "  Greater  Winterberg,"  from  whose  summit  the 
prospect  has  been  increased  by  an  observatory  upon  the  top  of 
a  very  fair  house  for  refreshment  and  rest,  to  those  who  would 
enjoy  the  beauty  of  a  sunrise  among  the  Bohemian  Moun- 
tains.   A  heavy,  misty  cloud  was  passing  during  our  stay  here, 


154 


I 

A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


and  our  disappointment  was  the  greater,  as  this  point  embraced 
the  most  extended  view  of  Bohemia  and  Saxony. 

Mounting  again,  after  reaching  the  bottom  of  the  descent 
our  progress  was  onward  to  the  "  Prebisch  Thor,"  another 
natural  archway,  more  grand  and  remarkable  than  the 
"  Kuhstall,"  being  nearly  seventy  feet  in  height,  one  hundred 
in  breadth  and  over  fourteen  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  Could 
I  retrace  my  steps  to  Dresden,  and  approach  Saxon  Switzer- 
land from  the  south,  this  view  from  the  "  Prebisch-Thor " 
would  be  described  as  the  most  wild,  grand,  beautiful,  and 
impressive  of  all.  I  know  not  if  loveliness  is  a  term  appli- 
cable to  scenery.  If  it  is,  "  Bastei  "  surpasses  all  others  in 
that.    "  Prebisch-Thor  "  in  all  except  that. 

A  comfortable  dinner  awaited  us,  so  far  as  preparation  and 
cost,  but  not  so  in  the  active  conflict  with  the  wasps  !  Watch- 
ing the  descending  of  the  horses  and  guides  as  pigmies  in 
appearance,  they  slipped,  jumped  and  fel^  in  descending  the 
sandy  pathway,  through  the  cleft  riven  rocks,  to  the  base  of 
the  precipitous  summit  from  which  we  gazed,  and  to  leave 
which  the  constant  appeals  of  our  guides  were  necessary,  so 
reluctant  were  we  to  lose  forever  the  contact  of  wonder, 
admiration  and  awe  with  these  most  rude,  rough,  wild,  develop- 
ments of  nature's  God. 

Mounting  again  as  soon  as  we  came  to  the  carriage  road, 
an  hour's  ride  brought  us  to  the  village  of  "  Hirniskretschen," 
in  Bohemia,  upon  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Elbe.  Here  we 
were  to.  take  an  open  row  boat  down  the  Elbe  to  Schandau 
again,  for  the  night's  rest.  Passports  were  examined  prepara- 
tory to  leaving  the  Austrian  dominions  and  entering  Saxony. 
Guidesf^orters,  pony  owners  were  to  be  paid  and  discharged ; 
a  detail  of  circumstances  rendered  m-ore  annoying  by  the 
presence  and  importunities  of  the  most  wretched  deformities 
of  humanity  I  ever  saw,  but  who  foreclosed  all  sympathy  by 
stealipg  a  pair  of  travelling  gloves,  while  the  owner  was 
establishing  his  identity  with  his  passport  at  the  police  station. 


A  SUMMER  eve's  SAIL.  155 
/ 

Taking  our  seats  in  the  boat,  with  all  the  caution  and  con- 
sideration which  the  fears  of  our  lady  friends  rendered  courteous 
and  imperl(||^,  we  were  soon  afloat  on  the  broad,  placid  stream. 
Th,e  bold  mountains  of  Bohemia  were  behind  us ;  "  Lilien- 
stein  "  and  "  Konigstein  "  before  us ;  the  high  rocky  hills  on 
either  side,  with  the  deep  shades  of  their  earlier  twilight  at 
the  base,  and  the  setting  stm's  rays  capping  their  summits  ;  the 
unruffled  surface  of  the  river,  hardly  disturbed  in  the  leisqre 
oar  strokes  from  the  boatmen  ;  following  the  returning  ponies 
and  guides  i!f  their  winding  homeward  paths,  leaving  the 
juveniles  comparing  the  respective  qualities  of  "  Fritz  " 
and  "  Bether "  with  aH  the  earnestness  attendant  upon 
their  first  act  of  horsemanship  ;  recounting  the  weary  steps 
followed  by  exquisite  gratification ;  listening  to  our  friend 

V  's  narrative  of  his  varied  life,  as  one  of  the  largest 

coffee  -planters  of  the  East  Indies;  his  official  position  and 
duties  there ;  regarding  his  estimable  .lady  with  increasing 
interest  and  pleasure,  as  her  husband  detailed  the  events  of 
domestic  life  with  a  family  of  ten  children,  sometimes  sur- 
rounded by  foes,  whose  plans  of  destruction  of  life  and 
property  were  defeated  by  the  cool,  steady  purpose  of  a  clear 
English  head  and  stout  heart ;  story  after  story  annihilated 
the  time  and  distance,  until  "  Schandau "  was  again  our 
"  locum  tenens,"  without  the  pyrotechnical  cheat  or  lost  traps 
of  the  evening  and  morning  previous.  At  peace  with  all  the 
world,  Morpheus  led  us  captive  in  dreams,  where  we  met  in 
imagination  the  dear  friends  at  home,  dearer  even,  because  the 
dream,  but  not  the  joy  was  there. 

Crossing  the  Elbe,  next  morning,  in  a  flat  bottomed  ferry 
boat,  with  carriages  from  the  hotel  at  Schandau,  and  landing 
at  "  Kr'ppen,"  our  destination  was  for  the  impregnable  fortress 
of  "  Konigstein,"  upon  the  summit  of  a  rock  nearly  eight  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  river  and  nine  hundred  above  the  sea  level. 
The  ascent  was  tedious  but  singular,  the  roadway  being  cut  in 
the  face  of  the  rock,  not  circuitously,  but  with  a  direct  ascent. 


156 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


Approaching  the  gateway,  a  ravine  crossed  by  a  bridge  renders 
access  impossible  upon  the  removal  of  the  bridge  the  other 
sides  of  the  fortress  being  perpendicular  rockslRh  clefts  of 
ragged  fronts.  Opposite  to  this  fortress  (which  like  that  of 
Frederikhaven,  of  Denmark,  has  never  been  taken,)  rises  in 
majesty,  the  "  Lilienstein  "  rock,  twelve  thousand  feet  distant, 
higher  than  the  fortress,  and  undoubtedly  commanding  it  with 
th^  more  modern  heavy  ordnance  of  shot  or  shell.  Napoleon 
ascending  "  Lilienstein  "  with  two  or  three  light  cannon,  after 
the  most  laborious  toil,  found  the  fortress  beyonfT  range.  But 
twelve  and  twenty-four  pound  shot  have  been  thrown  from  the 
latter,  reaching  without  difficulty  tTie  former.  The  area  or 
table  surface  of  the  rock  occupied  by  it  contains  about  six 
or  seven  acres,  affording  space  and  soil  for  a  garden  of  fruits 
and  flowers.  A  well,  nearly  seven  hundred  feet  in  depth,  sup- 
plies the  garrison  with  water.  The  mode  of  raising  it  was 
certainly  primitive, — by  means  of  a  large  wheel  some  twenty 
feet  in  diameter,  four  feet  wide,  and  with  an  inside  lining,  up . 
which  three  or  four  half-grown  boys  trotted.  Their  weight 
gave  motion  to  the  wheel,  and  the  two  buckets,  one  ascending 
full  and  the  other  empty  descending,  were  changed  by  these 
revolutions  of  the  wheel  shaft.  "  The  Page's  Bed,"  a  narrow 
projecting  rock,  has  its  name  and  interest  from  the  stupid 
daring  of  a  drunken  page,  who  slept  there  during  his  inebria- 
tions, with  a  hair's  breadth  between  life  and  death,  far  above 
the  sharp  points  of  the  projecting  cliffs  below. 

In  1848,  a  chimney  sweep  scaled  the  fortress,  and  the 
astonishment  at  the  successful  effort  which  saved  his  being  a 
head  shorter  from  the  sentinel's  sabre,  whom  he  surprised  if 
not  frightened,  did  not  compensate  him  from  the  exhaustion 
which  his  attempt  produced.  The  railway  between  Dresden 
and  Prague  passes  upon  the  river  side  close  under  the  fortress; 
the  masonry  of  the  track  of  which  is  purposely  connected  by 
a  wooden  bridge,  to  be  destroyed  when  necessary  by  a  field 
piece  always  kept  in  position.    The  river  is  entirely  within 


A  day's  sail  rPON  THE  ELBE. 


157 


control  of  the  fortress.    The  variety  of  landscape  (with  the 

small  village  of  — ,  with  its  warm  baths,  nestling  in  the 

valley,)  the  river,  railroad,  "  Lilienstein,"  cars  in  motion, 
steamers,  produce— boats,  rafts,  cattle,  crops,  farm  buildings  and 
fields ;  for  softness,  beauty  and  grandeur,  the  view  from 
"  Konigstein  "  outranks  the  other  points  of  interest,  all  save 
the  loveliness  of  "  Bastei." 

The  sail  down  the  Elbe  was  very  agreeable.  Pleading 
fatigue,  although  it  exists  only  in  memory,  (yet  anticipating 
the  ready  response  from  my  readers  Avhich  would  greet  my 
appeal,)  I  shall  hurry  to  our  quarters  at  the  hotel,  simplj^^» 
ing,  that  as  we  approached  Dresden,  the  banks  of  the 
became  more  interesting,  from  the  residences  of  royalty  and 
aristocracy  surrounded  by  the  externals  of  luxury  and  tasjj, 
and  the  swimming  school  and  gardens,  where  instructions  in 
that  most  important  art  is  scientifically  given,  and  the  grounds 
connected  with  the  school  afford  relaxation  and  recreation 
from  the  heat  and  toil  of  summer's  occupations. 

Since  the  determination,  to  which  we  had  so  wisely  deferred, 
of  returning  home  had  been  formed,  a  feeling  of  elasticity  had 
been  ever  present  with  us.  The  fatigue,  annoyances  and 
discomforts  of  travelling  in  the  summer  solstice  were  cheer- 
fully borne  ;  knowing  that  the  sparkling  embers  of  that  hickory 
wood  fire  would  furnish  ample  materials  for  seeking  again,  in 
their  everclianging  form,  the  representative  palace,  castle, 
tower  and  river  ;  hoping  that  even  our  threadbare  stories  of 
Ifereign  travel  would  brighten  the  eyes  and  smiles  of  our  dear 
friends,  whose  absence  we  mourned  and  whose  presence  we 
truly  longed  for. 

The  intense  heat  of  August  27th,  made  us  captives  at 
home,  with  the  occasional  reference  by  one  of  our  number  to 
the  homeopathic  remedies  in  our  well  stored  travelling 
case.  The  beautiful  opera  of  "  Norma  "  was  enjoyed  by  us 
at  evening,  serving  to  cancel  the  disappointment  we  experienced 
in  having  no  letters  from  home. 
14 


158 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


Sunday,  August  28th,  at  11  A.  M.,  found  us  in  attendance 
upon  the  English  Church  service.  A  larger  congregation 
than  is  customary  in  these  foreign  churches  was  present. 
"Dresden  (as  I  have  before  observed)  has  a  reputation  for 
comfort  and  economy  which,  in  winter,  gives  it  a  large  popula- 
tion comparatively  of  English  and  American  residents.  These 
families  vacate  the  city  in  summer,  returning  in  November. 

Our  commissionaire  showed  us,  the  next  morning,  the  exhibi- 
tion of  Kauffrnann's  most  wonderful  musical  instruments,  from 
the  diminutive  warbling  of  a  little  bird,  enclosed  in  a  snufF  box, 
^111^  imitation  of  a  full  orchestra,  complete  in  all  its  partsj 
e!liP  that  of  the  stringed  instruments.  There  was  the 
original  of  "  Maelzel's  Trumpeter,"  which,  if  I  mistake  not,  is 
a  figure  familiar  to  many  friends.  Another  instrument  repre- 
s^ting  a  most  peculiar  quality  of  tone^  produced  by  the 
friction  of  a  rotating  buff  wheel,  (with  resin  sprinkled  upon 
its  suiface,)  against  strings  like  those  of  an  upright  piano, 
played  upon  by  keys  in  the  same  manner,  was  very  pleasing,  as 
it  combined  the  tones  of  musical  glasses  and  the  violoncello, 
singularly  soft  and  sweet.  A  mechanical  combination  of 
trumpets  and  drums,  with  the  shrill  blast  and  inspiring  tones 
of  the  battle  charge ;  harmoniums  of  powerful  and  softened 
tones,  and  the  powers  of  which  were  artistically  displayed 
by  the  sister  of  the  maker,  as  agreeable  in  her  person  and 
address  as  in  the  music  of  her  skill  and  proficien'cy.  Other 
varieties  and  combinations  of  musical  tone  and  power  an- 
swered our  highest  anticipations  in  this  most  wonderfii|j|| 
repository^of  genius  and  talent,  receiving  as  they  did,  warm 
encomiums  from  him  of  the  white  broad  brimmed  hat,  and  her 
of  tlie  plain  drab  bonnet,  (our  fellow  countryman  and  his 
wife,)  whose  curiosity  away  from  home,  proved  their  suscepti- 
bility to  music's  charms. 

The  senior  Kaufmann  (now  deceased)  inherited'  this  sin- 
gular power  of  mechanical  combination  of  musical  talent,  and 
as  strongly  has  transmitted  it  to  his  children,  the  brother  and 


"  NO  HOME  THERE  !" 


159 


sister,  whose  cabinet  drew  me  away  from  other  sights  for  a 
repetition  of  the  pleasure  found  there.  A  fee  of  a  thaler, 
each,  (seventy-five  cents,)  relieves  you  from  any  apprehension 
of  intrusion.  A  ramble  through  the  old  armory  and  old 
palace  brought  us  too  ne£^  the  hotel  to  resist  a  lunch. 

By  a  combination  of  circumstances,  which  might  perhaps  be 
explained,  I  found  my  old  friend  of  Sweden's  memory  in  the 
cars,  for  a  visit  to  the  "  Agricultural  College  at  Tharand."  • 
And  to  avoid  intruding  upon  his  letter  relative  to  that  institu- 
tion, (in  the  Society's  Transactions  before  alluded  to,)  I  shall 
refer  to  that  for  what  I  might  otherwise  say  of  that  pleasant 
little  trip,  avoiding  thus  a  desire  for  comparative  effort,  or 
uncharitable  criticism.  (I  saw  his  "block  of  dogs,"  a  few 
days  since  in  the  hands  of  a  friend,  who  was  to  show  his  fire- 
side circle  how  to  make  a  dog.  Was  it  done  as  well  as  the 
pattern  ?") 

At  breakfast,  August  30th,  my  attention  was  arrested  by  a 
lone  lady-like  American  woman,  whose  appearance  and  man- 
ners warranted  my  offering,  her  my  sympathies  or  assistance, 
without  presuming  upon  that  courtesy  or  propriety,  which  is 
characteristic  of  refinement  and  education.  Her  story  was  a 
most  singular  commentary  upon  my  investigations  of  Dres- 
den's advantages.  A  true  southern  matron  had  followed  her 
three  boys  across  the  ocean,  where  they  were  residing  for  a^ 
education  :  this  mother  came  to  establish  a  home  for  them  in 
Dresden.  Her  researches  for  comfort  and  satisfaction  had 
resulted  as  our  own ;  and  with  a  heavy  heart  and  tearful 
eye  she  said,  "  she  could  not  make  it  home  there."  The 
sacrifice  was  too  much.  A  husband  and  another  son  in  the 
United  States  were  willing  and  anxious  for  her  voluntary 
e:sile,  but  "  there  was  no  home  there  V 

At  a  subsequent  call  upon  our  Consul,  I  repeated  to  him 
my  impressions  confirmed  by  this  lady's  sincere  effort  to  find 
what  is  not  there,  a  home,  true  home  in  Dresden.  It  is  the 
best  place  for  those  of  mature  age  and  experience  to  learn 


160 


A  SmrMER's  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 


self-denial,  notliiiig  more  or  less.  If  others  tell  a  different 
story,  and  question  my  faith  and  experience,  so  be  it.  "  There's 
no  place  like  home "  to  me.  Certainly,  not  in  any  foreign 
city  I  have  yet  seen.  England  tempts  me  in  qualifying  my 
assertion,  but  "  there's  no  place  like  home  "  to  me  ! 


THE  "FLORENCE"  OF  GERMANY. 


Circumstances  beyond  my  control  have  carried  me  across 
the  Atlantic  at  diffierent  times,  and  at  each  visit  it  has  been 
my  purpose  to  profit  to  the  utmost,  by  these  most  favored 
opportunities  for  seeing  the  highest  productions  of  art.  I 
have  tried  to  catch  a  breath  of  inspiration  from  the  atmos- 
phere of  beauty  encu'cling  the  collections  of  the  finest  works 
by  the  best  masters  of  the  old  or  modern  schools.  Yet  I 
never  enter  a  picture  gallery  without  the  consciousness  of  an 
utter  inability  of  criticism,  arising  not  from  the  want  of  any 
keen,  appreciative  sense  of  the  beautiful,  but  because  the  active 
pursuits  of  a  business  life,  followed  by  an  untiring  industry 
and  almost  insatiable  perseverance,  have  led  me  so  far  away 
from  the  cultivation  of  the  proper  qualifications,  that  I 
honestly  confess  my  incompetency^  and  with  undisguised 
frankness  acknowledge  the  presumption  in  making  the  attempt. 

Such  were  my  sensations  in  entering  the  picture  gallery  of 

Di  esden.    The  city  is  appropriately  styled  the  "  Florence  of 

Germany."    And  so  it  is  in  the  richness  of  its  art  treasures. 

In  entering    the   building    where    the    picture    gallery  is 

located,  you  pass  through  galleries  of  the  different  schools  of 

paintings,  the  Italian,  Spanish,  Neapolitan,  Dutch  and  Ger- 
14# 


162  A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE.* 

man.  But  the  gem  of  all  is  "  Raphael's  Madonna  di  San 
Sisto."  A  female  figure  in  an  erect  position,  holding  upon  her 
right  arm  the  infant  Saviour ;  midway  between  earth  and 
heaven  she  ascends  to  Paradise.  The  venerable  Pope  Sixtus, 
gazing  at  the  Virgin  with  piety  and  awe,  is  upon  one  side, 
while  in  contrast  with  the  veneration  of  look  and  mien  of  the 
venerable  old  man,  upon  the  opposite,  is  the  figure  of  female 
loveliness,  personified  in  the  youthful  saint  Barbara.  Looking 
upward  with  all  the  innocent  fervency  of  childhood's  earliest, 
purest  impulses,  are  two  angelic  children.  The  indescribable 
expression  of  the  youthful  Christ,  in  its  intensity  of  benevo- 
lence, purity  and  love,  excites  a  feeling  of  irrepressible  grati- 
tude gushing  from  your  inmost  soul,  as  you  look  and  look 
again,  trying* to  fathom  "the  depths  of  the  unsearchable 
riches  "  of  that  salvation,  whose  founder,  in  the  simplest  attri- 
butes of  infancy,  is  thus  before  you.  Gazing  with  holiest 
emotions  from  mother  to  child,  from  child  to  mother ;  weary 
in  the  fixed  concentration  of  soul  and  mind,  you  vainly  tempt 
the  energies  of  both  to  comprehend  what  you  cannot  tell,  but 
know  you  feel.  Standing  till  nature's  unheeded  resources  fail 
with  fatigue ;  sitting  entirely  unconscious  of  time's  flight, 
duties  or  responsibilities ;  trying  again  and  again  to  satisfy  the 
cravings  of  a  dissatisfied,  insatiate  conception  of  the  depth  of 
the  meaning  of  that  infant  face,  you  allow  yourself  to  move 
onward,  yielding  to  the  anxieties  of  those  around  you,  in 
wishing  to  share  your  favored  chance  of  looking  upon  the 
God-like  child! 

My  criticisms  upon  this  malchless  collection  of  gems  in 
painting  must  terminate  with  this  ^  humble  effort  to  convey  im- 
pressions which  "  Raphael's  Madonna  "  created,  and  still  live. 
It  would  be  difficult  to  find  a  name  illustrious  in  the  annals  of 
art,  whose  representative  production  was  not  upon  these  walls. 
A  copy  of  "  La-Belle-ChocolatiereJ'  with  her  romantic  his- 
tory of  being  a  waiteress  in  a  coffee  house  in  Vienna,  capti- 
vating, even    unto   marriage,  a  member  of  the  Austrian 


woman's  friendship. 


163 


nobility,"  by  her  celebrated  beauty;^ a  crayon  sketch  by 
"  Liotard," — these  copies  upon  our  sitting  room  walls  are  the 
refreshing  mementoes  toSaiy  family,  of  the  pleasures  enjoyed 
in  the  repeated  visits  to  the  Dresden  gallery.  The  collection 
of  engravings  is  extensive,  (being  nearly  three  hundred  thou- 
sand,) and  is  of  corresponding  value,  marking  the  progress  of 
art  from  the  middle  of  the  fifteenth  century  to  the  present  time. 
Leaving  the  picture  gallery,  we  loitered  by  the  guard  house 
for  the  changing  of  the  guard,  (every  morning  at  11  o'clock,) 
at  which  time  the  music  of  the  band  attracts  a  crowd  o^ 
listeners. 

Propriety  prevents  a  particular  reference  to  a  class  of 
females  who  join  the  throng  of  attendants  at  these  street  con- 
certs and  other  places  of  public  resort,  except,  perhaps,  with  a  * 
general  remark  upon  their  youthfulness  and  confident  assu- 
rance ;  their  education  and  condition  in  life,  preventing  the 
readier  conception  of  what  we  of  the  sterner  sex  most  highly 
appreciate,  the  exclusiveness  we  would  ever  attach  to  female 
loveliness.  The  richest  gem  owes  its  value  only  to  its  rarity. 
The  brightest  jewel  is  only  brilliant,  when  in  comparison  with 
obscurer  light.  Woman  little  conceives  the  height  from  which 
she  falls  in  her  degradation,  or  can  comprehend  that  a  general 
distribution  of  her  friendship  essentially  deprives  it  of  any 
value,  or  worth  the  keeping. 

Upon  the  lower  floor  of  the  Royal  Palace,  (which  was  at 
the  end  of  the  old  bridge  over  the  Elbe,)  is  the  "  Green 
Vault,"  so  called,  (why,  I  cannot  tell,  except,  perhaps,  from 
its  original  decorations,)  and  is  one  of  the»  richest  collections  of 
diamonds,  rubies,  emeralds,  sapphires,  topaz,  opals,  garnets,  and 
other  (if  there  are  any)  precious  stones,  I  ever  saw.  The^ 
most  exquisite  carvings  in  ivory  and  pearl ;  objects  in  bronze  ; 
Florentine  mosaics ;  paintings  in  enamel ;  gold  and  silver 
plate ;  vessels  from  rock  crystal ;  agates  ;  Lapis-lazuli  and 
cameo  cuttings  ;  the  regalia  used  at  the  coronation  of  one  of 
the  Polish  Kings  ;  a  representation  in  gold  and  enamel  of  one 


164 


A  SUMMER  S    TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 


hundred  and  tliirty-^ht  figures  of  men,  horses,  elephants, 
courtiers  and  carriers  of  the  "  Court  of  the  Great  Mogul," 
costing  $58,000,  and  requiring  eigh^^^ears  to  make  it ;  a  mass 
of  native  silver  from  the  mines  near  Freiberg ;  a  sardonyx, 
the  largest  in  the  world,  over  six  inches  long  and  four  broad  ; 
these  and  countless  other  gems,  relics,  curiosities,  the  recapitula- 
tion of  which  overtasks  memory  and  pen  holding,  are  here 
collected  in  one  vast  storehouse.  An  aggregate  of  many 
millions  in  value,  they  are  preserved  with  utmost  rigidity  of 
responsibility  ;  and  in  case  of  danger  or  tumult  are  most  care- 
fully carried  to  the  fortress  of  Konigstein  for  preservation,  to 
be  returned  when  security  will  justify  ;  replaced  with  historical 
accuracy  and  care  ;  wonderful  as  works  of  art,  beautiful  as 
brilliancy  or  coloring  can  create,  kept  again  by  custodians  day 
and  night  from  century  to  century.  Could  the  green-eyed 
monster  have  caught  the  depth  and  intensity  of  its  piercing 
stare  from  the  "  green  brilliant "  of  one  hundred  and  sixty 
grains  weight  ?  Would  that  the  monster's  form  and  presence 
was  as  rare  as  this  priceless  gem  !  This  collection  was  first 
opened  in  the  early  part  of  the  eighteenth  century. 

Returning  to  the  hotel  for  lunch,  and  with  my  own  card  for 
an  introduction,  I  visited  the  somewhat  far-famed  school  of  Dr. 
Farance.  The  Doctor  was  very  courteous  ;  every  department 
was  freely  shown  me ;  ever^  question  answered,  and  my  im- 
pression of  its  advantages  are  of  the  most  favorable  nature,  as 
.1  have  also  expressed  in  relation  to  the  schools  at  Vevay, 
(Switzerland,)  which  I  visited  two  years  before.  A  simple 
incident  illustrates  the  efficiency  of  their  physical  culture. 
•  A  curly-headed  boy  of  seven  or  eight  years  of  age  was  in  ai 
small  gymnasium  attached  to  the  school.  The  Doctor  told  him 
to  climb  a  smooth,  upright  pole  some  twenty  feet  high,  and 
about  six  inches  in  diameter  at  the  bottom,  and  four  at  the  top. 
I  protested  against  the  effort  as  an  overtask  of  his  physical 
ability.  But  the  boy,  (of  English  parentage,)  hearing  my 
remark,  smiled,  and  reached  the  top,  by  clinging  with  his  lega 


A  CONTEMPTIBLE  FIRE  ! 


165 


and  climbing  with  his  hands.  I  have  no  doubt  I  could  beat 
the  boy  coming  down,  but  how  far  up  could  I  climb  ?  I  most 
cheerfully  respond  to  the  Doctor's  very  natural  request,  and 
recommend  his  "  family  boarding  school "  for  all  boys  who 
require  to  be  taught  the  value  of  home  comforts  and  home 
influences,  by  a  deprivation  of  them. 

The  "  Frauenkirche,"  (Clmrch  of  our  Lady,)  has  a  most 
singular  interior  arrangement  similar  to  that  of  a  theatre,  with 
boxes,  pit,  &c.  The  exterior  of  stone  is  of  imposing  and 
attractive  appearance  ;  bearing  marks  from  the  batteries  of 
Frederick  the  Great  against  it,  in  the  Seven  Years'  Wartjfcbut 
which  were  as  unimpressive  as  upon  the  solid  rock,  so  firmly 
and  compactly  is  the  edifice  constructed.  An  unusual  hubbub 
with  the  ringing  of  the  church  bells  hastened  Ln^locomotive 
powers  to  see  what  was  the  matter.  Following  the  upward 
gaze  of  the  excited  crowds,  I  observed  a  flag  extended  in  a 
particular  direction  from  the  church  tower.  Following  that 
direction,  I  saw  smoke  ascending,  and  soon  guessed  the  cause  of 
fire.  Hiring  as  I  ran,  a  cab,  I  had  leisure  to  watch  the  gradual 
working  up  of  excitement  in  the  stoical,  phlegmatic  German. 
Men,  women,  boys  and  girls,  cavalry  and  infantry,  all  rushed 
onward  for  the  fire !  Engines  (literally  tubs)  on  plank  wheels, 
(drawn  by  cavalry  horses)  of  most  antique  form  and  capacity, 
which  one  of  our  young  America's  croiud  w^ould  spurn  to  use 
or  draw ;  messengers  from  the  cavalry  rushing  past,  some 
going  to,  others  coming  from,  the  burning  of  the  King's  brick 
barn  upon  the  outskirts  of  the  city  ;  the  Lilliputian  streams 
and  efforts  to  put  the  fire  out,  (which  however  5z«m^  out  )  made 
me  more  than  ever  regret  the  superior  excitement  of  a  fire  as 
described  in  Copenhagen.  The  whole  affair  (except  the  fire) 
was  farcical  and  antiquarian.  Even  the  youngest  of  my 
juveniles,  who  also  saw  the  event,  said  it  was  a  "  sister  fire," 
the  strongest  expression  of  boyhood's  contempt. 

The  morning  of  August  31st  was  devoted  to  packing  in 
boxes,  "  the  odds  and  ends  of  travel,"  directing  them  as 


166 


A  summer's  travel  IX  EUROPE. 


freight  homeward,  to  save  the  exorbitant  charges  of  transporta- 
tion which  exists  on  every  railroad  upon  the  continent.  There 
is  a  regular  baggage  tariff,  varying  in  liberality  from  thirty  to 
fifty  pounds  for  each  passenger  of  the  first  and  second  class 
tickets.  All  weight  over  this  allowance  is  paid  for  extra. 
And  my  family's  trunks  and  traps  have  cost  me  the  full  price 
of  an  adult's  seat  in  every  foreign  travel.  There  is  such  an 
unrestrained  liberty  in  this  respect  allowed  to  travellers  by 
railroad,  stage  and  steamboat,  in  this  country,  that  there  is  no 
grader  annoyance  to  an  American  family  than  this  irritating 
charge.  Whatever  you  can  keep  in  your  hand  without  injury 
to  the  railway  carriages,  or  inconvenience  to  fellow  travellers, 
you  are  permitted  to  take  free,  as  hand  baskets,  &c.  This 
restriction  is  not  v/ithout  its  practical  bearings.  It  prevents 
at  least  by  the  expense  of  transportation  to  foreigners,  the 
gratification  of  -the  misconceived  idea  of  wealth  and  social 
position, — erroneously  supposed  to  be  established  by  a  foolishly 
extravagant  display  of  silks,  satins  and  laces,  numbers  and 
varieties  of  dress,  equal  to,  if  not  exceeding,  the  days  in  num- 
ber, which  are  intended  as  the  period  of  absence  from  home. 
An  encroachment  not  only  upon  the  purse,  but  of  those  higher* 
gratifications  and  faculties  of  the  mind,  making  our  female 
friends  victims  of  luxury  and  extravagance. 

The  character  of  a  lady's  dress  (always  to  myself  at  least,) 
prefigures  her  intelligence  and  refinement.  No  matter  whether 
at  home  or  abroad  ;  rusticating  in  the  simple  recreations  of  a 
retired  summer  retreat  in  the  country,  or  in  the  throng  of 
visitors  at  the  most  fashionable  watering  places.  A  lady 
never  appears  more  fascinating  than  in  an  appropriate,  simple 
dress,  wdth  the  assurance  that  the  luxury  of  a  minute  detail  of 
the  morning  toilet  was  faithfully  appreciated.  At  dinner,  a 
modest  silk  or  stuff  dress  ;  and  this  for  the  evening  also,  if  no 
extraordinary  circumstance  requires  a  change.  The  style, 
material  and  color  of  the  dress,  changing  in  its  adaptability  to 
climate,  season  and  occasion.    I  know  remonstrance  is  of  but 


MODERN  DRESSING — ANCIENT  ART.  167 

little  avail.  But  perhaps  the  assertion  that  to  appropriateness 
of  color  to  complexion  ;  of  form  to  figure  ;  of  propriety  to 
position,  are  the  French  females  alone  indebted  for  their  supre- 
macy of  taste  and  economy  in  dress. 

From  my  window  a  graceful  figure  passing  by  arrests  my 

pen,  my  sermon,  my  pleading  for-  it  is  a  friend/  and 

the  application  of  ray  preaching  is  most  curtly  rebuked,  in  the 
long  dress  that  the  obstinate  dressmaker  loould  make  to  trail ! 
If  I  was  sure  the  compositor  would  not  "cry  for  copy  "before 
I  can  find  time  to  put  as  many  words  (I  know  there's  n^ense 
in  them !)  on  paper  as  there  are  here,  I  wonld  soon  display  my 
agility' in  making  gas  lighters  of  this  sheet,  or  else  use  it  for 
wrapping  paper  in  that  box  we  were  packing  in  our  room  at 
the  hotel  Bellevue,  and  a  counterpart  of  which  I  shall  have 
upon  my  ears,  if  I  am  ever  caught. 

What^^|^amble  from  Dresden  to  my  office  window  in  

street.  The  Japanese  Palace  upon  the  easterly  side  of  the 
Elbe,  near  the  railway  station,  is  another  museum  of  antiqui- 
ties, porcelain  and  terra-cotta.  These  are  collections  of  bronze 
casts,  of  old  and  modern  schools ;  marble  busts  and  statues 
from  Pompeii)  Herculaneum  and  other  older  cities;  dilapidated 
fragmentary  parts  of  the  same  in  porphyry,  forming  very  inter- 
esting links  with  the  buried  past,  and  marking  art's  progress 
or  decay.  The  lower  (basement)  floor  is  appropriated  exclu- 
sively to  the  collection  of  porcelain.  There  are  twenty  rooms, 
ninety  thousand  pieces  ;  showing  the  Chinese  porcelain  from 
the  13th  to  the  19th  century ;  Saxon  from  the  17th  ;  speci- 
mens of  French,  English,  Prussian,  Austrian  and  American 
manufacture,  of  almost  every  form,  finish  and  figure,  from  a 
vase  three  feet  high  and  four  feet  in  diameter  to  a  tiny  tea 
cup  ;  a  highly  finished,  beautiful  model  of  a  Boodhist  temple  to 
a  toy  dog;  stands  of  flowers,  rivalling  nature  in  the  exactness 
of  the  copy,  to  the  simplest  form  of  a  saucer.  The  founder  of 
the  Saxon  manufacture,  the  guide  informed  me,  was  Johannes 
Frederick  Bottscher,  in  1704.    Specimens  of  the  earliest  pro- 


168  A   summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 

ductions  are  choicely  kept.  A  saucer  one  thousand  years  old 
was  shown  us. 

Returning  to  the  hotel  for  lunch,  my  steps  were  directed  to 
the  Consulate,  where  a  pleasant,  courteous  reception  and  inter- 
view was  enjoyed  ;  its  pleasure  being  increased  by  the  presence 
of  the  only  American  who  bears  the  title  of  royalty,  Prince 

John  .    An  evening  at  the  opera,  witnessing  and  keenly 

enjoying  the  performance  of  "  Massaniello,"  well  cast  and 
artis|j|^lly  arranged,  we  retired  at  its  close  for  our  last  night 
at  Dresden. 

September  1st,  after  finishing  packing,  calling  at  the  bankers, 
spending  the  last  hour  of  leisure  at  the  picture  gallery,  at 
12|  P.  M.  we  were  en  route  for  Vienna.  Our  English  friends 
had  left  us,  homeward  bound,  a  day  or  two 'previous.  The 
regret  at  their  absence  and  the  sorrow  of  parting  with  them, 
the  anticipations  of  home  with  the  mgtual  congralBations  of 
our  decision  not  to  tarry  longer  at  Dresden,  made  our  exit 
from  its  limits  more  joyous  than  our  entrance.  Our  future 
movements  were  for  Vienna,  stopping  a  day  at  Prague,  thence 
to  Munich,  Nuremburg,  Frankfort,  Paris,  London,  Liverpool, 
home  ! 

A  singular  combination  of  circumstances  had  prevented  my 
visiting  Vienna  in  my  former  European  travels,  and  it  is  still 
an  unknown  city  to  me,  except  by  reputation.  At  the  principal 
station  between  Dresden  and  Prague,  "  Bodenbach,"  an  incau- 
tious lunch  of  half  cooked  veal,  proved  a  source  of  subsequent 
disappointment  and  no  inconsiderable  anxiety.  At  this  station 
the  Austrian  frontier  is  crossed,  and  the  usual  espionnge  of 
passports  and  baggage  was  performed  by  officials  in  strict 
military  costume  and  manner.  They  were  the  first  of  that 
nationality  the  juveniles  had  seen,  and  I  shall  accuse  them  of 
no  lack  of  courage  or  boldness,  in.  detecting  a  closer  adhesion 
to  our  steps  and  person,  as  these  stern-looking,  uncompromising 
individuals  made  their  appearance  and  demands.  And  what 
with  apprehensions   for   the   unfortunate  detection  of  any 


INNUMERABLE  VARIETIES. 


169 


suspicious  traps  we  might  have,  and  the  unchecked  license  of 
the  mice  and  rats  in  their  rambles  among  the  ladies'  skirts  and 
chairs,  and  the  exorbitant  demand  for  these  annoying  discomforts, 
it  is  not  strange  if  "  Bodenbach"  has  become  a  "household 
word "  full  of  meaning  in  expressing  what  is  disagreeable  or 
repulsive  in  the  family's  daily  experience. 
^  The  location  of  this  station  is  very  picturesque,  being  upon 
the  left  bank  of  the  Elbe,  upon  the  side  of  a  high  hill, 
commanding  a  beautiful  view  of  the  river,  with  its  animated 
mirror-like  surface,  over  which  steamboats,  rafts,  peasant 
craft  and  freight  barges  were  constantly  in  motion.  'Upon 
the  opposite  bank  is  the  small  town  of  "  Tetschen,"  in 
which  is  tjie  handsome  chateau  of  Count  Thun.  The  vil- 
lage cathedral  formed  an  attractive,  graceful  point  in  the 
beautiful  scenery  around  it.  The  country  through  which  the 
railway  passes  is  productive  and  interesting.  A  very  singular 
coal  (principally  bituminous)  is  found  in  large  deposits  in  this 
vicinity.  The  woody  fibres  are  as  perfectly  retained  in  the 
specimen  I  have  as  if  no  geological  action  had  taken  place. 
Droves  of  geese  attended  by  the  farmer's  wives  and  children, 
gave  a  novelty  to  the  scenes  around  us,  and  the'  apnounce- 
ment  at  7,  P.  M.,  that  we  were  in  Prague,  was  not  greeted  as 
cordially  as  when  passing  through  less  interesting  districts,  or 
of  longer  confinement  in  the  cars.  Our  intention  was  to 
remain  here  until  the  next  .day's  afternoon  train  for  Vienna. 
During  the  night,  premonitory  symptoms  of  indisposition  sug- 
gested a  possible  interruption  of  our  plans. 

After  breakfast,  my  family,  at  my  urgent  request,  under 
the  guidance  of  a  commissionaire  with  a  carriage,  visited  the 
most  interesting  objects  of  this  quaint  old  city,  whose  attrac- 
tions are  so  frequently  passed  by,  in  the  hurry  of  destination, 
to  and  from  Dresden  and  Vienna.  I  at  home,  a  recipient  of 
good  nursing  by  an  attached  member  of  my  family,  (whose 
faithful  and  acceptable  services  of' fourteen  years,  are  most 
cheerfully  here  recorded.) 
15 


170 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


The  Hotel  d'Angleterre  near  the  railway  station,  at  which 
we  stopped,  was  directly  opposite  the  military  hospital.  My 
occupation,  when  not  prostrated,  was  in  watching  the  detach- 
ments of  wounded  men  and  worn  out  horses,  as  they  were 
forwarded  from  the  sanguinary  fields  of  Magenta  and  Solfe- 
rino.  It  was  a  melancholy  sight  to  see  young  men  in  the  full 
prime  of  life  and  vigor  of  manhood,  mutilated  and  maimed, 
pale  with  sickness  and  pain;  wan  and  thin  from  suffering  priv^ 
tion  and  fatigue^  of  different  sectionalities  of  country,  gathered 
into  this  large  receptacle  of  disease  and  death  ;  away  from  all  the 
hallo^i^ed  associations  of  home ;  unconscious  of  the  pressure  of 
that  hand,  of  more  than  maternal  love  or  sisterly  affection, 
whose  soft  gentleness  seems  the  link  between  the  calm,  placid 
bliss  of  heaven  and  earth's  richest  joys ;  conquerors  and  the 
conquered ;  brothers  in  arms  sympathizing  with  their  prison- 
ers of  war ;  Austrian  soldiers  with  an  almost  comical  mixture 
of  French  and  their  own  regular  service  uniforms  ;  French 
soldiers  awaiting  their  exchange  as  prisoners,  with  their  pecu- 
liar care-for-nothing  cap  and  gait,  contrasting  the  more 
strangely  in  the  incongruous  costume  from  their  conquerors' 
fragmentary  outfit ; — these  formed  a  singular  compound  of  the 
grave  and  the  gay,  the  serious  and  the  ludicrous.  Our  south- 
ern chivalry  were  very  wise  in  leaving  Major  Anderson  so 
long  solitary  and  alone,  until  it  required  one  hundred  to  one  to 
match  him.    Not  more  so,  however,  than  was  a  certain  valiant 

man  of  war,  from  one  of  the'northern  towns  in  State,  who 

in  1842  brought  forth  his  valiant  band  to  aid  a  ^''people's 
cause,"  and,  when  the  attack  upon  the  arsenal  was  being 
made,  most  valiantly  retreated  in  more  than  "  double-quick- 
time,"  saying  "  ne  came  to  do*  military  escort,  not  to  become  a 
military  corpse !" 


XXII. 


HOMEOPATHY. 


Upon  my  family's  return  from  sight-seeing,  a  disagreeable 
duty  devolved  on  our  German  member  in  being  dispatched 
for  a  physician,  as  symptoms  of  a  choleratic  nature  made  me 
a  decided  invahd.  In  prompt  response  came  Dr.  Seegen,  a 
most  excellent  Homeopathic  practitioner ;  an  educated  man 
and  a  skillful  physician.  Despondingly  a  couch  was  my  retreat 
and  quarters  for  that  and  three  or  four  succeeding  days.  I 
found  the  German  practice  differs  only  from  that  of  home,  in 
the  milder  dilutions  and  triturations.  Dr.  Seegen's  account  of 
the  hostility  which  this  peculiar  practice  encountered  in  its 
introduction,  from  the  followers  of  the  old  school,  differed  from 
that  to  which  I  had  previously  referred  in  this  respect ;  that 
with  us,  popular  favor  alone  was  summoned  to  its  extinction 
and  abuse ;  while  in  Germany,  the  full  force  and  rigor  of  legal 
enactment  was  brought  to  bear  upon  it.  Yet,  notwithstanding 
this  array  of  power  against  it,  it  has  so  triumphantly  succeeded 
as  to  have  the  confidence  and  patronage  of  royalty,  and  its 
professors  and  practitioners  are  acknowledged  to  be  in  the 
ranks  of  educated  and  scientific  minds.  As  convalescence 
returned,  the  last  hope  of  seeing  Vienna  was  most  cheerfully 
abandoned,  and  one  of  the  most  delightful  efforts  at  corres- 


172 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


pondence,  was  that  of  writing  to  the  very  gentlemanly  agent 
of  the  Cunard  steamers  at  Liverpool,  (Mr.  George  Burgess,) 
for  passages  for  home,  by  the  steamer  for  Boston,  at  the 
earliest  possible  moment  after  the  middle  of  October. 

A  low,  murmuring  chanting  of  voices  in  the  street  drew  me 
to  the  window,  as  the  "  carrying  the  host,"  by  Roman  Catholic 
priests  and  attendants,  passed  by.  This  is  the  customary 
service  upon  the  sick.  And  while  sympathy  for  a  fellow 
sufferer  was  excited,  gratitude  to  God  was  the  more  active  for 
the  consolations  and  hopes  of  a  religion  that  comes  silently,  but 
with  power,  to  the  couch  of  the  sick  or  the  bed  of  the  depart- 
ing ;  whether  that  be  upon  the  cold  earth,  surrounded  by  the 
dead  and  dying,  amid  the  execrations  of  agony,  or  shrieks  of 
the  wounded  victims  of  war's  bloody  carnage,  or  on  the  pillow 
of  down,  whose  .softness  is  surpassed  in  the  pressure  of  the 
hand  of  a  mother,  wife  or  friend,  whispering  its  assurances  of 
love  and  affection  to  the  soul's  last  listenings  ;  and  cheering  its 
flight  to  Heaven,  as  it  realizes  that  the  sorrows  of  earth  may 
be  the  sure  guarantees  of  unending  joys,  and  the  affections  so 
imperfectly  conceived  here  are  matured  there  !  A  fresh  delega- 
tion of  wounded  soldiers  and  worn  out  horses  came  next,  as 
an  appropriate  commentary  x)n  life's  ills.  A  cold,  homeless, 
cheerless  day  was  a  bad  restorer  of  health,  and  the  good  Doctor 
was  hardly  conscious  how  narrowly  his  impressions  of  progress 
were  analyzed,  as  he  shook  his  head  and  conversed  with  my 
most  kind  and  attentive  interpreter.  If  he  had  known,  too, 
the  effort  of  next  morning  in  appearing  so  m.uch  improved,  he 
might  have  seen  treason  and  rebellion  decidedly  rampant  in 
attempting  the  disguise  of  improvement.  His  hopes  of  a 
homeward  start  "  in  a  loeek  or  two  "  most  suddenly  collapsed, 
as  the  next  morning,  at  ten,  (which  was  the  hour  of  his  first 
daily  visit,)  he  found  trunks  and  traps  all  below,  and  his 
patient  attired  for  a  return  to  Dresden  !  Very  delicately  pre- 
senting his  bill,  the  poor  man  hardly  thought  himself  awake- 
And  as  he  met  us  on  the  way  to  the  cars  to  leave  at  11,  A.  M.' 


VALUABLE  RAILWAY  SIGNALS. 


173 


I  could  not  tell  whether  he  ever  before  came  in  contact  with 
quite  as  much  self-will  and  resolution,  or  if  he  was  calculating 
the  protracted  time  we  should  continue  under  his  care  in  con- 
sequence of  such  inconceivable  rashness.  The  only  yielding 
to  uneasiness  was  on  the  return  approach  to  "  Bodendach," 
which  if  we  had  never  seen  a  wedik  previous,  my  readers 
would  have  been  kept  out  of  a  sick  room  at  Prague. 

Dresden,  {lovely  spot  it  appeared  on  this  return,)  was 
reached  at  9  P.  M.  Our  good  host  must  have  tested  the 
strength  of  his  optic  nerve,  as  he  tried  to  convince  himself  of 
our  identity.  He  certainly  had  consigned  our  being  to  his 
memory  and  the  pages  of  his  hotel  register  and  ledger.  A 
gentle  restorer  in  a  comfortable  night's  drest,  put  us  in  trim  for 
another  day's  journey  to  Cassel.  Dresden  was  left  Jinally  at 
9 1  A.  M.,  after  Icindly  salutations  with  our  lady  friend,  whose 
maternal  affection  was  being  most  sorely  tried,  in  trying  to  be 
contented  in  Dresden  for  her  sons'  sake ;  inditing  a  letter  to 
an  esteemed  friend,  (an  ex-Judge  at  home ;)  purchasing  as 
farther  mementoes,  some  of  the  peculiar  wax  shades  for  win- 
dows, resembling  the  porcelain  screens  for  gas  and  candle 
light ;  and  sending  to  the  bankers  for  that  very  convenient 
facility  for  either  home  or  foreign  travel,  fundsM  Our  rail- 
jvay  travel  was  over  a  very  level,  highly  cultivated  district  of 
country,  interesting  from  its  agricultural  developments  more  ^ 
than  any  other  prominent  feature  of  scenery.  There  was  one 
peculiarity  of  railway  signals  differing  from  any  seen  before. 
Near  the  track  and  ground,  .a  wire  passes  the  length  of  the 
road,  communicating  with  small  brick  stations,  upon  the  top  of 
which  are  arranged  a  number  of  bells.  As  the  train 
approached  the  larger  travellers'  stations  the  bells  struck  some 
dozen  times,  indicating  the  arrival  of  the  train  and  communi- 
cating this  fact  to  the  station  next  beyond,  through  the  wire 
connection.  A  responsive  signal  came  back  to  the  train  that 
all  was  right,  after  which  the  train  moved  on.  And  this  com- 
munication existed  throughout  the  entire  length  of  the  road.  It 
15* 


174 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


seemed,  as  far  as  human  agency  could  operate,  to  be  as  success- 
ful a  precaution  against  accident  as  could  be  adopted. 

The  detention  and  its  cause  at  Praf^ue,  chanf^ed  the  entire  * 
programme  of  our  movements.  Our  stay  upon  the  continent 
was  dependent  wholly  upon  the  ability  of  procuring  home 
passages.  During  this  %ncertainty,  a  trip  to  Giessen,  (the 
home  for  more  than  a  year  of  one  of  our  hearthstone's  circle,) 
was  decided  upon.  And  our  departure  from  Dresden  was  for  this 
purpose,  visiting  Cassel  on  the  route.  The  railway  passes 
through  Leipsic,  (the  only  portion  of  which  we  saw,  was  the 
very  tine  station  house,  and  the  streets  upon  the  outskirts  of 
the  city  connecting  the  railway  stations,)  AYeimar,  Eisenach> 
and  other  places  of  leaser  importance. 

The  country  after  leaving  Leipsic  was  very  interesting  in 
presenting  a  great  variety  of  soils.  An  hour's  ride  from  this 
place,  very  extensive  salt  works  were  passed,  from  which  and 
others  in  this  vicinity.  Saxony  derives  her  supply.  There  are 
springs  and  wells  of  highly  impregnated  salt  water.  The 
liquid  is  pumped  by  steam  and  other  kinds  of  power  into 
troughs  placed  upon  a  timber  frame  work,  thirty  and  forty 
feet  in  height,  four  or  six  feet  wide  at  the  top,  and  the  support- 
ers or  brae*  twenty  feet  or  more  apart  at  the  bottom.  The 
space  between  the  braces  and  uprights  is  filled  with  brushwood 
in  longitudinal  layers,  two-thirds  of  the  whole  height.  The 
water  trickles  from  the  troughs,  down  the  sides,  over  the 
brushwood.  The  evaporation  from  contact  with  the  air,  crystal- 
lizes the  pure  salt  upon  the  wicker  work,  and  as  such  is  col- 
lected and  prepared  for  use.  At  a  little  distance  these  frame 
works  resemble  the  aqueducts  of  historic  times,  and  are  of 
different  lengths  and  numbers  as  required  by  the  abundant  or 
limited  supply  of  the  springs  and  wells.  A  very  peculiar 
brown  coal  is  found  in  this  locality,  differing  from  any  I  had 
previously  seen.  At  "  Bodenbach  "  the  coal  referred  to  was 
remaikable  in  its  resemblance  to  charcoal,  tlie  fil^rous  nature 
of  the  wood  being  so  distinctly  retained ;  but  the  brown  coal 


CASSEL,  AND  THE  WATER-WORKS.  175 

• 

has  the  impression  of  leaves,  fruits  and  flowers  equally  as 
perfect  in  its  geological  change.  It  is  brought  to  the  stations  # 
in  lumps  from  the  mines,  and  is  ol'  very  general  use  for  all 
the  ordinary  purposes  of  fuel.  When  the  lumps  are  broken 
and  more  or  less  wasted  to  dust,  this  is  mixed  with  water  and 
formed  by  moulds  into  cakes,  (as  bHcks,)  for  consumption. 
Samples  of  both  these  coals,  black  and  brown,  I  have  seen  at 
the  office  of  the  Secretary  of  the  R.  I.  Society,  proving  that 
its  correspondent  had  traversed  the  same  ground  as  myself  A 
peculiar  custom  of  harnessing  the  horses  singly  to  a  pole 
instead  of  in  shafts,  exists  here.  Wh'ere  the  road  is  mountain- 
ous and  rough,  but  one  track  for  the  horse  is  made,  and  that 
the  one  formed  by  the  wh-eels,  in  advance  of  which  and 
directly  in  front,  the  horse  travels.  This  application  of  muscu- 
lar power  is  at  least  a  one-sided  affair,  and  would  of  necessity 
contract  the  animal's  powers  of  draught  and  locomotion. 

Our  arrival  at  Cassel  at  10  o'clock,  P.  M.,  was  a  source  of 
great  relief,  as  one  of  our  number  was  suffering  intensely  with 
the  usual  attendant  upon  any  excitement,  a  severe  sick  head' 
•ache.  To  those  ignorant  of  this  liability,  it  may  seem  a  frivo- 
lous matter  of  record  ;  but  where  every  pleasure  is  met  by 
its  presence  and  alloy,  the  effort  for  its  mastery  is  worthy  of 
commendation.  Our  object  in  being  at  Cassel  was  to  examine 
the  artificial  waterfalls  and  fountains,  which  had  been  repre- 
sented as  equal  to  those  of  Versailles. 

The  next  morning,  with  a  fine  sky  and  light  hearts,  seated  in 
two  open  carriages  with  good  steeds  and  a  courteous  commis- 
sionaire, our  drive  was  for  the  "  Wilhelmshohe "  and  the 
"  Cascade  of  Karlsburg."  The  former  is  the  summer  palace 
of  the  Elector,  and  from  its  court  the  Cascade  is  best  seen, 
w^hen  the  waters  are  in  motion.  Viewed  from  the  palace, 
there  appears  a  succession  of  steps  ascending  a  gentle  rise, 
upon  each  side  are  basins  which  are  so  arranged  in.  distance 
apart  and  form,  as  to  appear  from  the  palace  one  continuous 
sheet  of  water  for  the  distance  of  nine  hundred  feet.  Half- 


176  A  summer's  travel    in  EUROPE. 

way  in  the  ascent  a  rough  representation  of  a  giant's  form 
breaks  the  monotony  of  the  perspective.  At  the  top  of  the 
cascade,  upon  an  octagonal  building,  stands  the  colossal  figure 
of  Hercules,  in  copper.  From  the  palace  the  figure  appears 
the  size  of  life,  but  in  reality  it  is  thirty-one  feet  in  height,  and 
the  club  of  proportionate  dimensions,  so  large  as  to  have  room 
for  eight  persons  at  one  time.  An  ascent  to  the  head  of  the 
figure  is  not  desirable,  except  to  younger  muscles  and  more 
aspiring  hopes  than  mine.  The  view  is  not  superior  to  the 
one  from  the  roof  of  the  reservoir,  for  which  the  building  was 
constructed.  A  running  flowering  vine,  taken  in  its  dwarf-like 
growth  from  the  crevices^of  mould  and  dust  at  the  base  of  the 
Hercules,  is  now  in  a  window  at  home,  as  green  and  flourish- 
ing as  are  the  associations  of  a  pleasant  day  in  the  place  of  its 
■birth.  The  court  of  Neptune  under  the  roof,  in  its  semi- 
circular form,  with  statues  and  "jets  d'eau,"  are  perhaps  the 
brightest  point  in  the  juvenile's  memory,  as  the  guide  opened 
the  supply  to  the  jets  of  water,  which  came  around  them  in 
forms  of  beauty,  without  the  more  serious  annoyance  of  a  wet 
jacket.  Cones  from  the  pine  trees  ;  seeds  from  the  wild  ros^ 
and  thorn  ;  leaves  for  an  herbarium,  were  gathered  as  souve- 
nirs. The  latter  only  remain  as  the  seeds  died  after  being 
planted.  Midway  between  the  palace  and  Cassel  is  one  of 
those  toy  structures  Royalty  sometimes  builds,  "as  mementos  of 
the  old  feudal  times  of  lord  and  vassal.  The  small  "  Castle  of 
Lowenburg,"  with  its  miniature  towers,  battlements,  draw- 
bridges and  ditches,  excites  in  the  mind  of  the  stranger  pity 
for  the  weakness  of  intellect  that  could  expend  so  much  time, 
talent  and  cost  in  such  a  bauble.  And  although  its  small 
cabinet  of  old  armor,  its  few  paintings  and  ducal  apartments  . 
may  remind  you  of  the  luxuries  of  "  power  and  purse,"  yet 
the  actual  progress  in  science  and  art  the  same  ability  would 
have  created,  is  a  question  too  practical  to  remain  unasked  or 
unanswered. 

A  rainy  hour  dampened  our  spirits,  garments  and  the  walks? 
causing  a  "  retreat  to  quarters  "  within  the  walls  of  "  Schir- 


A  REJECTED  COMFORTER. 


177 


mer's  Hotel,"  upon  the  Grand  Square  of  Cassel.  Looking 
from  onr  windows,  the  short,  black  skirt,  printed  muslin  bodice, 
peculiar  bonnets  and  well-formed  limbs  of  the  female  peasants; 
the  curious  manner  of  carrying  babies,  on  a  pillow ;  the 
melancholy  cortege  of  a  funeral,  made  the  day's  duration  pass 
unobserved,  and  nightfall  brought  us  to  the  welcome  occupancy 
of  the  characteristic  beds  of  the  Germans.  Never  shall  I 
forget  my  experience  with  '•  down  comforters."  When  first 
retiring  I  was  expostulating  with  the  attendant  upon  the  insuffi- 
ciency of  clothing.  But  overpowered  by  the  persuasive  manner 
more  than  by  the  unintelligible  jargon  of  this  personage,  I 
resigned  myself  to  the  cold  anticipations  of  a  relentless  fate. 
Soothing  sensations  of  warmth  came  gradually  on,  and  sleep 
followed  in  their  train.  But  awakening  with  feelings' of  oppres- 
siveness, my  first  impulses  were  to  cry  fo^help,  rescue,  relief 
from  the  overtowering  mass  above  me.  The  cold  moon  was 
distinctly  before  me  when  I  retired,  but  now  all  I  could  see  was 
a  miniature  mountain  of  sombre  aspect.  Not  a  window  was 
visible,  not  a  piece  of  furniture  could  I  trace,  nothing  but  this 
immense  yet  weightless  mass.  I  would  have  compromised  for 
a  place  under  the  wheels  of  th^  "  Juggernaut,"  it  seemed  as 
though  some  nightmare's  fancy  had  become  a  reality ;  and 
with  an  effort  of  muscle  and  will,  ^s  needless  as  to  remove  a 
feather's  weight,  the  monster  like  object  rolled  upon  the  floor. 
The  moon  returned  through  the  windows,  the  furniture  was 
all  right,  but — I  was  shivering  in  the  cold,  and  upon  the  floor 
lay  a  small,  thin  square  of  silk  and  chintz,  occupying  the 
place  of  my  terrible  annoyance.  I  put  the  silk  and  chintz  on 
the  bed  again,  and  have  never  since  been  annoyed  by  an 
eider  down  comforter." 

In  passing  from  Cassel  to  Frankfort,  by  raihvay,  the  brown 
coal  to  which  reference  has  been  m  ide  seemed  ,to  exist  in 
greater  quantities.  Passing  through  Giessen,  to  which  we 
intended  returning,  our  German  member  was  made  most  happy 
by  the  receipt  of  letters,  which  had  accumulated  during  his 


178 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


response  to  paternal  summons  from  his  studies,  and  by  which 
he  had  met  us  at  Hamburg,  and  had  continued  as  our  guide 
and  protector.  In  reply  to  the  questions,  "  where  were  the 
letters  from  ?"  and  "  how  can  they  come  from  home  when  w^e 
arc.  all  here  ?"  w^e  soon  suspected  that  there  was  another  link 
in  memory's  chain,  which  probably  created  greater  attractions 
filial  affection.  A  magnet  of  the  heart,  as  irresistible  in 
its  power  as  it  is  indescribable  in  its  being.  So  here  was  a 
discovery.  Well,  all  I  can  hope  for  is,  that  every  other  may 
be  as  agreeable  and  valuable  in  its  possession.  A  faithful 
friend  of  the  hotel's  comforts  and  a  confidante  brought  the 
letters,  and  spoke  German  enough  to  bring  a  blush  at  his 
impetuous  friendship. 

Our  arrival  at  Frankfort  at  11  o'clock,  P.  M.,  on  Friday, 
Sept.  9th,  w  as  a  b<|ght  ei  a  in  our  rambles,  as  the  circum- 
stances of  my  recent  indisposition  made  this  haven  a  point  of 
anticipation,  more  for  the  future  than  for  so  prompt  a  reality. 
The  next  morning's  bright  sun  w^as  as  cheerful  as  the  mingling 
•  of  voices,  of  every  note  and  tone,  chaffering  in  the  streets 
below  us.  Our  windows  wer^  upon  the  market  place.  The 
sidew^alk  w^as  covered  with  a  tempting  display  of  flowers,  fruits 
and  vegetables.  And  why  after  breakfast  I  strolled  among  the 
pretty  market  girls,  compromising  for  their  laughter  at  my 
attempt  in  speaking  German,  by  the  opportunity  it  afforded  me 
of  examining  more  particularly  the  different  kinds  of  vegeta- 
bles, or  admiring  their  fresh  rosy  cheeks  and  honest  features, 
I  shall  not  explain,  but  let  the  imagination  of  my  readers 
guess  !  I  brought  home,  among  other  seeds,  a  fine  variety  of 
pear  shaped  onions.  But  my  efforts  in  this  and  other  instances 
to  add  to  our  varieties  of  vegetables  were  unsuccessful,  as  the 
seeds  did  not  germinate  in  planting.  Here,  too,  my  sensibili- 
ties for  the  gentler  sex  w^ere  excited,  in  seeing  a  stout,  burly 
built  fellow  load  a  basket  with  his  purchases,  and  very  coolly  assist 
his  wife  in  placing  it  upon  her  head,  the  customary  mode  of 
carrying  them  by  the  females. 


MARTIN  LUTHER*S  AND  THE  ROTHCHILD'S   HOME.  179 

The  hotel  keeper  brought  to  us  Commissionaire  Freeze,  a 
very  courteous,  middle-aged,  intelligent  man,  under  whose 
guidance  we  took  up  the  "  route  step  "  for  sight-seeing.  The 
old  town  hall  is  more  interesting  to  the  student  of  history  than 
it  would  be  in  any  attempted  description,  as  its  objects  of 
attractions  to  us  were  portraits  of  the  Emperors ;  as  is  the 
Senate  Chamber,  an  old  historic  apartment  of  oak  ceiHngs  and 
decorations.  The  meat  market,  through  which  we  passed,  was 
extensive  and  well  supplied  with  the  ordinary  varieties  of  fish, 
flesh  and  fowl,  and  at  priced  more  liberal  than  our  own  at 
home.  It  was  the  season  of  one  of  the^vo  annual  fairs.  But 
unfortunately  most  of  the  square  wooden  booths,  forming  intri- 
cate highways  and  by-ways  in  the  large  squares  appropriated 
to  their  locality,  were  closed.  The  few  open  exhibited  the 
most  ordinary  varieties  of  cloths  and  garments,  while  by  far 
the  most  numerous  were  for  the  sale  of  toys  and  fancy  articles. 
As  the  principal  transactions  in  money  or  business  in  this  city 
are  those  of  banking  and  its  connections,  these  incursions  of 
the  peasantry  and  lower  class  of  trades-people,  may  fill  the 
otherwise  necessity  of  supply  for  the  wants  of  more  humble 
life  and  avocations.  The  house  occupied  by  Martin  Luther 
is  pointed  out,  and  a  tall,  narrow  house  in  the  Jews'  quarter 
("  Judengasse  ")  is  shown  as  the  one  in  which  the  family  was 
born,  who  have  held  kings  and  empires  at  their  bidding,  in 
the  unlimited  power  which  has  ever  been- attached  to  the 
wealth  and  treasures  of  the  Rothchilds. 


XXIII. 


OSTRACISM  OF    THE  JEWS. 

Frankfort-on-the-Main  (a  rfver  of  that  name)  is  one  of  the 
most  cheerful  and  Americanized  cities  upon  the  continent.  The 
newer  part  of  the  city  contains  fine  buildings,  wide  streets  and 
a  fresh  aspect,  although  to  a  business  man's  eye,  the  lack  of 
activity,  bustle  and  energy  soon  develop  the  fact'of  its  limited 
mercantile  transactions  or  extensive  negotiations.  In  the  older 
parts,  the  houses  are  narrow,  sombre-looking,  tall  edifices,  with 
narrow  streets  and  the  necessary  neglect  of  the  more  sanitary 
regulations.  The  Jews'  quarter  is  strikingly  of  this  character. 
And  this  peculiarity  is  a  strong  line  of  distinction  in  every 
foreign  city  as  I  now  recall  them.  For  centuries  they  have  been 
a  proscribed  people.  Subjected  by  severe  penalties  to  certain 
limits  for  either  residence  or  business ;  compelled  to  pay 
tribute  as  taxes  far  beyond  a  just  proportion  of  their  responsi- 
bilities as  citizens  ;  controlled  in  their  domestic  relations  by 
the  most  rigid  legal  enactments  ;  cut  off  from  social  contact 
with  the  other  residents,  except  in  the  most  limited  manner  ; 
their  continuance,  increase  and  prosperity  may  well  be  con- 
sidered as  wonderful,  and  reflective  of  no  ordinary  perseverance 
and  energetic  industry.  The  penalty  for  repudiating  the 
Messiah  has  been  fearfully  realized.  .  But  Christianity  in  its 


ARIADNE  AND  REYNARD  THE  FOX. 


181 


proper  exercise  of  charity,  is  alleviating  the  burdens  of  past 
ages ;  and,  in  its  progressive  beneficence,  has  ameliorated  the 
sorrows,  and  offered  its  hopes  and  consolations  to  this  peculiar 
people  of  antiquity.  The  public  buildings  of  Frankfort  do 
not  justify  an  elaborate  description.  The  most  attractive  object  of 
interest  is  the  statue  of  Ariadne,  by  Dannecker,  an  artist  of 
Wurtemburg.  It  is  in  a  very  tasteful  building,  appropriated 
by  its  liberal  proprietor  exclusively  for  its  exhibition.  Being 
lighted  from  the  top,  placed  on  a  revolving  pedestal,  surrounded 
with  scarlet  drapery,  its  exhibition  is  highly  satisfactory  inde- 
pendent of  its  high  claims  as  an  artistic  production.  There 
are  busts  in  plaster  of  eminent  personages,  and  bas  reliefs  in 
the  rotunda  of  the  exhibition,  as  auxiliaries  of  attraction.  A 
cast  of  the  face  of  Prince  Lichnowsky  with  the  sabre  gash 
across  the  forehead,  taken  after  his  death  in  the  Republican 
CjMest  of  1848,  is  an  intrusive  object  of  sympathy,  in  collision 
•^m  the  very  agreeable  emotions  the  statue^f  female  loveliness 
excites.  The  city  is  making  a  most  coifflifndable  effort  for 
the  establishment  of  a  Zoological  Garden.  But  a  limited 
collection  of  animals,  and  fresh  details  of  the  arrangements 
were  more  iifteresting  to  others  interested  in  their  locality  than 
to  ourselves,  familiar  with  more  extensive  and  matured  institu- 
tions. 

A  visit  to  Leven's  Zooplastiches  Cabinets  would  prove 
exceedingly  agreeable  to  my  juvenile  readers.  The  story  of 
"  Reynard  the  Fox  "  is  portrayed  from  life.  A  more  amusing 
exhibition  of  stuffed  animals  and  birds,  arrayed  with  all  the 
minute  details  of  dress  appropriate  to  the  sex  of  the  wearers 
(or  those  of  humanity  they  intend  to  satirize,)  with  all  the  para- 
phernalia of  drugs,  medicines  and  nostrums,"  adapted  to  the 
cure  of  "all  the  ills  flesl^is  heir  to,"  or  the  prosecution  of 
almost  any  scientific  pursuit ;  the  most  comical  expressions  of 
suffering,  or  ecstacy  of  mirth  and  sorrow  in  birds  and  beasts, 
*iade  our  stay  here  prolonged,  although  our  juveniles  protested 
to  the  last  "  that  we  had  not  been  five  minutes,"  a  discrepancy 


182 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


of  more  than  an  hour  between  their  assurance  and  the  watch 
dial. 

In  the  barren  wilderness  of  social  enjoyments,  with  which 
our  German  member  had  been  surrounded  for  more  than  a 
year,  there  were  two  or  three  friends  whose  commoq  sympathy 
of  nationality  and  language  were  the  "  oasis  "  in  the  daily 
life.  A  young  English  fellow-student  and  friend  joined  us  at 
dinner,  and  formed  one  of  our  happy  group  during  our  stay  at 
Frankfort.  The  occasion  of  the  fair  had  introduced  into  the  city, 
with  other  festivities,  one  of  the  best  conducted  Circus  establish- 
ments I  ever  saw.  The  riding,  vaulting  and  tractability  of  the 
horses  were  very  superior.  This  was  our  first  contact  with  a 
popular  German  audience.  And  notwithstanding  the  ad-lihitum 
enjoyment  generally  characteristic  of  these  exhibitions,  the 
decorum  was  far  in  advance  of  that  which  is  so  excessively 
annoying  in  every  exhibition  where  "  Young  America  ^Ms 
without  parental^j^traint,  or  freed  from  apprehension  of  nre 
police. 

September  11th,  an  early  call  from  the  commissionaire  broke 
the  spell  of  our  slumbers,  and  conducted  us  to  the  Cathedral 
for  early  morning  mass.  Its  great  attraction  wa^the  23resence 
of  the  peasantry  (attending  the  fairs)  in  varied  picturesque 
costumes  peculiar  to  the  section  of  the  country  from  whence 
they  came  in  crowds,  to  the  recreations  and  higher  religious 
privileges  the  occasion  afforded. 

Returning  to  breakfast,  most  unexpectedly  we  encountered  a 
fellow-ship-passenger  of  the  voyage  from  home.  With  "John 
Murray  "  under  his  arm,  he  was  v\iending  his  way  sight-seeing 
and  exploring,  with  a  rush  that  n^e  but  a  Yankee  can  under- 
stand. Our  questions  were  thick  and  fast ;  inquiries  after  our 
gallant  skipper  and  his  good  wife,  #ir  other  passenger  friends, 
"  where  he  was  from  ?  where  going  ?  where  staying  ?  how 
long?"  &c.,  &c.  And  what,  my  dear  reader,  were  his 
responses.  "  Camef^this  morning ;  going  this  afternoon ;  cani 
stop  ;  where  is  the  Cathedral !"    I  remember  of  hearing  of 


LIEBIG  AND  GIESSEN. 


183 


oie  American  who  "did  up"  Rome  in  twenty-four  hours, 
visiting  St.  Peters  and  its  other  three  hundred  and  sixty-five 
churches,  temples,  ruins,  galleries  and  all !  AVeil,  if  our  friend, 
the  ex-Judge,  is  going  yet  at  the  same  rate  as  when  he  left  us, 
he  must  be  on  his  third  voyage  on  foot  round  the  world  ! 

After  breakfast  we  attended  the  English  Episcopal  service  at 
the  chapel.  The  Rev.  Mr.  Cuthale  officiated,  being  the  mission- 
ary stationed  there  ;  and  charity  passes  without  comment,  his 
manner,  ijaatter  and  sympathy  in  the  holy  service  through 
which  he  conducted  us.  The  day  was  exceedingly  disagreeable, 
being  cold,  windy  and  dusfy,  reminding  us  all  of  the  annoy- 
ances from  the  same  cause  so  familiar  to  the  citizens  of  . 

We  all  w«ere  reluctantly  but  unmistakably  identified  with  "  free 
soil "  particles  if  not  principles.  The  usual  family  duties  of 
Scripture  reading  and  its  attendant  exercises  gave  us  pleasura- 
ble retrospections  of  a  Sunday  at  home. 

Bright  and  early  the  next  morning,  we  were  en  route  for 
Giessen,  our  German  member's  home,  when  a  commendable 
energy  determined  the  future  career  of  scientific  pursuits  to 
one  of* our  fireside  circle.  Giessen,  containing  the  chemical 
school  founded  by  Liebig;  with  its  detailed  associations  of 
feudal  times  ;  ^  narrow  streets,  irregular  houses,  picturesque 
locality  upon  the  river  Lahn  ;  surrounding  scenery  of  wildness 
and  mountain  was  so  vividly  described  to  us  previous  to  our 
leaving  home,  that  our  feelings  of  disappointment  were  active 
and  unanimous,  as  we  emerged  from  the  railway  station  and 
found  ourselves  in  regjilar  streets  a^nd  a  modern  aspect  and  fresh- 
ness in  the  building  and  surroundings,  strangely  in  contrast  with 
the  past  year's  conceptions  of  our  foreign  member's  life  being  so 
dark  and  gloomy  in  a  sombre  old  town  of  mould  and  ruin. 

Arriving  at  the  "  Einhorn,"  our  paternal,  sensations  might 
have  been  sadly  ruffled  at  the  eager,  hearty  greeting  the  stray 
guest  received  from  the  hale,  corpulent,  gentlemanly  host, 
^'Herr  Muller,"  and  his  family  and  attendants.  The  best 
rooms  were  at  our  command.    And  the  apartments,  dinner 


184 


A  SUMMER  S  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 


and  service,  we  were  assured,  were  the  same  as  that  arranged 
for  the  Russian  Princes !  The  townspeople  stared  at  the 
rarely  opened  blinds,  and  many  a  "  fraulein's  "  fair  face  and 
bright  eyes  were  detected  peering  through  the  blinds  opposite 
and  around  at  the  unwonted  spectacle  of  the  guest-chamber's 
occupancy.  Upon  the  extreme  attic  floor,  looking  over  roofs, 
tiles  and  chimney  tops  ;  away  from  all  sympathy  and  contact 
with  the  world  and  German  life ;  as  isolated  in  fact  as  he  was 
in  feeling,  from  every  association  around  him ;  rivalling  in  this 
isolation  the  sternest  recluse  from  the  world's  life  and  toil ; 
elevating  himself  as  far  above  as  possible  every  object  that 
might  interrupt  his  homeward  glances  and  memories  ;  here, 
from  such  a  home  as  he  left,  our  expatriated  member  had  spent 
a  year  of  study,  toil  and  suffering.  Rebellion  (and  revolution 
subsequently)  followed  our  introduction  to  his  parlor  and  bed- 
room. And  in  wonder  and  expostulation  at  our  remonstrances 
against  his  choice  and  arrangement,  he  met  our  objection,  as 
this  to  him  was  his  happiest  retreat !  "  Here  was  the  lamp  stand 
from  this  friend,  candlesticks  from  a  second,  a  bronze  dog  from 
a  third,  cigar  case  of  liberal  size,  well  filled,  Irom  a  fourth," 
and  so  on  the  enumeration  followed,  clothing  every  nook  with 
a  joke,  and  every  guest  with  a  story,  until  the  nappy  list  con- 
tained a  description  of  tea  drinking,  dinner  eatings,  breakfast 
coohings,  hours  of  chat  and  social  sonsr,  sufilcient  to  have  filled 

in  imagination  Hall.    And,  dear  reader  what  do  you 

really  guess  was  the  secret  of  this  aspiring  isolation  ?  Simply 
this,  that  he  could  be  alone  at  pleasure,  and  wish  (as  I  do  now) 
that  "  he  was,  and  he  knew  where,  and  he  knew  who  was  with 
him  there !" 

Our  liost's  aristocratic  looking  equipage  was  at  our  service 
(and  in  the  bill)  for  a  drive  around  the  environs  of  Giessen> 
after  which,  my  steps  were  directed  to  the  University  build- 
ings, which  I  supposed  to  be  extensive  and  costly.  It  is  not 
here  as  at  home  ;  the  students  study  at  their  rooms  and  meet 
the  Professors  at  the  residences  of  the  latter,  in  classes.  The 


CHEMICAL  FRUITS,  FRAGRANCE,  AND  LIQUORS.  185 

laboratory  was  a  source  of  disappointment  in  its  size  and  arrange- 
ments, not  in  any  manner  comparing  with  those  of  our  American 
Universities.  The  superiority  of  a  course  of  studies  upon  the 
continent  (as  previously  remarked)  is  in  the  thoroughness  (I 
may  almost  call  it  specialite)  with  which  any  subject  is  com- 
menced and  pursued.  Five  years  there  are  no  more4han  three 
here.  Whether  this  difference  is  owing  to  the  impressibility 
of  mind,  or  the  measured  progress  in  locomotion  or  mental 
pursuits  I  cannot  say.  If  not  sul)jecting  myself  to  the  charge 
of  partiality  and  unfairness,  I  should  attribute  it  to  the  prompt, 
rapid  comprehension  and  progress  of  the  American  mind. 
^  Professor  Will,  to  whom  our  member  had  letters,  and  with 
whom  his  studies  brought  more  immediate  contact,  was  absent? 
it  being  vacation.  Professor  Engelbach,  however,  most  kindly 
offered  his  intelligent  assistance  in  explaining  the  course  of 
instruction  and  the  institution.  Upon  my  desk  is  a  sample  of 
sugar  extracted  by  him  from  starch.  And  his  renumeration 
of  the  many  and  varied  substances  from  which  this  universal 
article  can  be  produced,  was  interesting,  particularly  as  the  list 
included  an  organ  of  the  human  frame,  from  whose  torpidity  I 
had  suffered  long  and  severely.  The  flavor  of  every  variety 
of  fruit,  and  the  fragrance  of  almost  every  flower  was  shown 
by  the  Professor,  with  the  assurance  that  not  a  particle  of  the 
genuine  fruit  or  flower  formed  the  least  portion  of  the  com- 
pound. They  were  the  combination  of  acids  and  chemical 
preparations,  so  successfully  an  imitation  that  you  questioned 
your  own  convictions.  Another  case  contained  specimens  of 
wine,  brandy,  cordials,  &c.,  which  never  had  been  imported  or 
grown,  but  equally  sustained  the  Professor's  claims  as  a  most 
successful  fabricator  of  false  liquors.  An  examination  of  some 
of  the  ingredients  excited  the  wonder,  not  at  the  effects  as  sure 
but  protracted  to  those  who  used  them,  but  that  humanity  had 
reached  to  so  low  a  depth  of  abasement  as  to  intentionally 
tempt  the  resistless  appetite  of  the  victims  of  intemperance 
with  such  powerfully  vitiating  elements,  making  death's  release 
16* 


18G  A  sum:mer's  travel  in  europe. 

the  greatest  boon..  There  is  one  abuse  of  reputation  of  which 
the  German  Universities  are  guilty.  Any  student  can  buy 
himself  a  Doctor  of  Philosophy's  degree ;  and  unless  where 
honestly  earned  by  unremitted  application,  it  is  not  worth  the 
parchment  upon  which  it  is  written.  The  contemplated  absence 
from  home  necessary  to  acquire  honorably  this  distinction, 
made  the  time  of  our  family's  disunion  uncertain.  The  assurance 
from  his  instructors  that  three  years  would  acquire  it,  with  his 
previous  advantages  and  the  usual  application,  but  that  it  was 
possible  to  reach  it  in  two,  was  sufficient  stimulus  to  our  mem- 
ber ;  and  in  three  months  over  the  two  years  from  the  date  of 
his  departure,  that  testimonial  of  his  toil  and  ability  was,  ^ 

now,  suspended  in  his  room,  at  No.  — ,  street,  in  the 

pleasant  town  of   . 

September  13,  we  were  again  en  route  homeward.  As  an 
indispensable  auxiliary  to  our  movements,  a  call  upon  Messrs. 
Gogel,  Koch  &  Co.,  bankers,  was  necessary.  Strange  as  it 
may  seem,  our  intentions  for  the  day  came  near  being  frustrated 
by  having  to  wait  for  them  to  procure  the  gold  coin  to  answer 
my  small  draft.  I  believe  my  powers  of  locomotion  are  not 
insignificant,  if  I  place  any  confidence  in  the  repeated  inquiry 
from  my  fair  friends,  as  they,  in  remonstrating  against  my  long 
and  rapid  strides,  ask,  "  if  my  haste  is  in  reality  as  great  as  it 
seems  ?"  or,  "  if  with  another  companion  my  anxiety  to  be  at 
the  end  of  the  promenade  would  not  be  lessened  ?"  The  poor 
fellow,  the  commissionaire,  not  having  been  paid  f5r  his  time 
and  service,  succeeded,  I  believe,  in  keeping  sight  of  the  skirts 
of  my  coat  around  the  corners.  At  the  hotel,  such  a  volley  of 
words  and  deeds  met  my  innocent  delay !"  "  The  baggage  and 
part  of  the  family  have  been  gone  nearly  an  hour  !  the  train  is 
off  in  five  minutes  !  it's  full  a  mile  to  the  station  !"  and  per- 
haps, dear  reader,  you  can  guess  what  you  would  do,  with  a 
divided  household  ;  straying  baggage  ;  unpaid  hotel  bills ;  por- 
ters, waiters,  chambermaids  and  the  exhausted  commissionaire 
gasping  upon  the  curb  stone,  all  vociferating  in  high,  low, 


"my  lady's  maid." 


187 


miclclle  Dutch  and  German ;  a  train  of  cars  one  mile  off  ancl 
five  minutes  only  from  the  time  of  their  leaving  to  get  there  ! 
What  would  you  have  done  ?  I  can't  tell  you  what  I  did  ;  but 
the  cars  were  in  motion  when  my  foot  was  upon  the  step  !  Did 
you  ever  hear  John  B.  Gough  describe  "  John  Gilpin's 
journey  ?"  It  is  a  lucky  thing  for  me  he  was  not  a  witness  to 
a  certain  departure  from  the  Hotel  d'Angleterre  in  Frankfort, 
and  the  transit  therefrom  to  the  railway  station  of  the  cars  for 
Strasbourg ! 

In  the  carriage  with  my  family  (the  only  place  left  for  us) 
was  a  lady's  waiting  maid  and  her  Italian  courier  or  travelling 
servant ;  and  such  a  wretched  mimicry  of  what  my  lady  said 
and  did  and  how  she  dressed  and  lived  was  another  surfeit. 
The  party  to  whom  these  subordinates  were  attached  consisted 

of  Lady  and  her  two  daughters,  all  highly  educated 

and  refinedl  adies,  occupying  exclusively  a  coupe  for  themselves. 
It  seems  the  young  ladies  had  each  a  pet  dog  accompanying 
them  to  Baden-Baden  where  the  party  were  to  remain.  If  the 
canine  followers  received  the  same  treatment  from  their  gentle 
mistresses  as  that  with  which  they  were  threatened  by  their 
attendants,  their  midnight  bowlings  would  be  excusable.  In 
travelHng  upon  the  continent,  unless  you  possess  a  thorough 
knowledge  of  the  language  and  customs  in  different  places,  these 
couriers  (as  they  call  themselves)  are  indispensable.  They 
assure  you  of  the  economy  of  their  services  as  it  costs  only 
their  transportation.  But  if  your  hotel  bills  are  not  increased 
more  than  one-third,  you  get  off  cheaply.  "  My  Lady's  maid  " 
offered  from  her  satchel  some  very  choice  wine  to  her  friend, 
assuring  him  that  "  it  came  from  my  lady's  table  !" 

At  Oos  you  leave  the  cars  from  Frankfort  in  going  to  Baden- 
Baden,  for  those  running  there,  upon  the  short  branch  railway 
of  three  miles.  "  My  lady's  maid  "  and  her  friend  were  so 
exclusively  engaged  in  their  tete-a-tete  that  they  forgot  this 
arrangement,  and  the  way  "my  Lady  "and  her  daughters, 
boxes,  bundles  and  dogs  were  transfered  at  the  last  moment, 


188  A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 

was  a  caution  to  any  party  travelling  with  a  versatile  lady's 
maid,  suscepticle  courier  and  two  dogs  ! 

The  railway  from  Frankfort  to  Strasbourg  passes  through 
Darmstadt,  Heidelberg,  Radstadt,  Carlsruhe,  Kehl,  besides 
many  places  of  lesser  importance.  At  this  later  place  the 
river  Rhine,  separating  France  from  Germany,  is  crossed  upon 
a  bridge  •  of  boats.  Passports  and  baggage  are  subjected  to 
a  strict  scrutiny  ;  but  once  again  in  France,  it  seemed  nearer 
home  in  the  elasticity  of  speech  and  action,  strangely  con- 
trasting with  the  dull,  heavy  phlegmatic  German.  It  is  true 
Strasbourg  retains  much  identity  with  its  former  Teutonic 
nationality,  in  custom  and  language.  Still  the  French  impress 
has  been  sufficient  to  make  a  strong  contrast  between  its  past 
and  present  associations. 

Pleasant  quarters  at  the  Hotel  de  Paris  (one  of  the  best 
upon  the  continent)  and  refreshing  slumbers,  relieved  us  from 
the  fatigues  of  travel.  Bright  and  early  the  next  morning,  the 
youngest  of  the  family,  with  the  oldest,  rambled  through  the 
well  supplied  markets,  finding  live  rabbits,  geese,  ducks, 
chickens,  fruit  and  flowers  in  the  variety  of  edibles  from  the 
animal  and  vegetable  kingdoms.  Under  the  guidance  of  a 
gray-haired  commissionaire,  we  visited  the  world  renowned 
Cathedral,  with  its  spire  nearly  five  hundred  feet  in  height, 
the  tallest  of  any  in  the  old  world  or  the  new.  As  the  attempt 
of  minute  descriptions  of  similar  structures  has  been  wisely 
avoided  in  these  rambling,  hasty  sketches, "  (on  account  of  the 
impossibility  of  conveying  satisfactory  impressions  to  the  mind 
of  any  one,  not  familiar  with  the  elaborate  architecture  of 
these  monuments  of  the  past,)  we  pass  directly  to  the  clock,  as 
of  equal  repute  with  the  Cathedral.  It  is  a  wonderful  piece 
of  mechanism,  embracing  a  correct  representation  of  the  move- 
ments of  the  solar  system,  with  ordinary  changes  of  time  in 
minutes,  hours,  days,  weeks,  months  and  years.  The  extraordi- 
nary representation  of  the  twelve  Apostles  passes  in  front  of  the 
Saviour,  bending  in  homage  before  Him  as  they  pass  ;  miniature 


EN  ROUTE  FOR  PARIS. 


189 


child-like  figures  strike  the  quarters,  half  and  each  hour ;  and 
upon  its  top,  at  the  side,  a  well  imitated  "  chanticleer,"  flaps  his 
wings  and  crows  every  day  at  12  M. 

A  ramble  f^rough  the  house  formerly  occupied  by  the 
architect  of  the  Cathedral,  to  the  Church  of  St.  Thomas,  (con- 
taining a  singular  monument  in  marble  to  Marshal  Saxe,  repre- 
senting him  entering  an  open  grave,)  to  the  cannon  foundry 
and  thence  to  the  hotel,  consumed  the  time  allotted  to  Strasbourg. 

At  one  o'clock  P.  M.,  we  were  again  en  route  for  Paris.  A 
cold,  rainy,  uncomfortable  ride  of  twelve  hours  brought  us,  past 
midnight,  within  the  walls  of  this  queen-like  city.  Driving  to 
the  Hotel  du  Louvre,  thankful  for  rest  anywhere,  we  forgot  the 
toils  of  the  past  in  the  bright  anticipations  of  the  future,  so 
near  home  were  we  !  The  "  Hotel  du  Louvre  "  is  an  abortive 
attempt  of  a  hotel  upon  the  American  plan.  It  is  too  large  and 
cumbersome  for  comfort.  A  world  in  miniature,  it  is  better 
adapted  for  single  guests  than  families. 

The  next  morning  with  a  severe  headache  and  chilling 
storm,. we  started  out  for  quarters.  After  a  research  nearly  as 
extensive  as  that  of  Dresden,  (but  far  more  satisfactory,)  it 
resulted  in  our  having  a  very  pleasant  suite  of  rooms  upon  the 
Rue  Kivoli,  fronting  the  new  Louvre,  in  the  new  hotel  "  Des 
Trois  Empereurs."  Our  engagements  were  for  a  month.  And 
that  month  is  a  bright  spot  in  memory's  delight. 


XXIV. 


A  frenchman's  domestic  life. 


In  recalling,  by  the  pleasures  of  mempry.  the  delightful  time 
of  our  sojourn  in  Paris,  my  first  impulse,  (if  governed  by  the 
sensations  characteristic  of  the  many  times  of  my  arriving  in  this 
beautiful  city,)  would  be  to  change  the  title  of  my  papers  and  call 
them  then,  "Memories  of  Home,"  so  homelike  are  the  associations 
in  comparison  with  those  of  any  other  European  city :  the 
gay,  cheerful  vivacity  and  sprightliness  of  manner  in  contact 
and  conversation,  is  in  such  strong  contrast  with  the  stoical, 
solidified,  measured  motion  of  thought  and  action  elsewhere. 
The  Frenchman  lives  for  the  life  he  is  conscious  of  having. 
Literally  he  appears  to  comprehend  and  express  the  scripture 
maxim  of  "  taking  no  thought  of  to-morrow."  His  domestic 
cares  sit  lightly  upon  him,  so  few  are  they  in  detail  in  com- 
parison with  our  own  New  England  homes. 

Living  in  a  suite  of  apartments,  perhaps  on  the  upper  floor 
of  a  large  house,  where  every  landing  place  of  the  stairs  is  the  * 
dividing  line  of  dominion  to  those  above  or  below  ;  his  laundry 
arrangements  consisting  of  a  large  wicker  basket,  which  con- 
tains the  family's  wardrobe  of  a  week's  wear,  taken  from  his 
room  and  returned  again,  with  no  care  save  the  register  of 
pieces;  his  culinary  establishment,  the  spirit-coffee-urn  or 


"begone  dull  care." 


191 


tea-pot  for  his  breakfast  cups,  and  the  few  dishes  necessary  for 
the  frugal  meal  of  eoifee,  a  roll  of  bread  and  occasionally  the 
luxury  of  an  egg,  or  perhaps  the  simpler  articles  required  for 
a  breakfast  of  ordinary  wine  (claret)  and  bread,  his  own 
and  family's  dinner  sent  from  or  taken  at  a  neighboring  restau- 
rant ;  commencing  his  business  at  ten,  A.  M.,  and  closing  it  at 
three,  P.  M. ;  strolling  amid  all  the  luxuries  of  art  and  beauty 
in  the  gardens  of  the  palaces  in  the  summer,  or  lounging  at 
the  cafes  in  ^e  winter ;  enjoying  with  his  family  th^pleasures 
of  music,  pantomimes,  tragedy  or  comedy  at  the  innumerable 
places  of  resort,  all  respectable,  from  the  franc  concert  room  to 
the  Italian  opera ;  conscious  of  his  religion,  the  returning  Sun- 
day brings  him  at  ten  in  the  morning  to  mass,  and  that  over 
the  day's  recreations  are  before  him ;  indifferent  to  the  exist- 
ence of  empire,  republic  or  kingdom,  except  as  the  espionage  of 
the  gend'-armerie  are  more  or  less  severe  ;  his  wants  few  ;  his 
means  limited ;  his  courtesy  and  affability  to  a  countryman 
never  lost,  (although  to  a  stranger  he  sometimes,  but  rarely? 
trespasses  unless  provoked  ;)  singing  the  favorite  catch  of  the 
last  new  opera  ;  twirling  his  cane  with  a  perfect  nonchalance; 
twisting  his  moustache  a  I'Empereur ;  always  ready  for  a 
laugh  or  story,  rarely  for  a  blow  or  insult ;  the  same  yesterday, 
to-day  and  to-morrow ;  the  very  atmosphere  around  him  is 
redolent  with  animation ;  and  the  misanthrope  would  fin^ 
society,  mirth  and  sympathy  with  the  rocks  and  caves  of  a 
wilderness,  in  comparison  to  that  isolation  and  individuality 
which  would  make  him  a  marked  man  and  an  object  of  almost 
rehgious-  horror  in  the  gardens,  streets  or  cafes  of  a  French 
city  or  society. 

"  La  belle  France  "  is  and  can  be  comprehended  only  by 
the  French.  Our  American  stoicism  and  ascetic  tendencies, 
as  we  trace  to  a  greater  or  less  degree  the  influence  and  con- 
nections of  the  Puritans,  the  matter  of  fact  rule,  in  our  pleas- 
ures and  pursuits  ;  the  loss  of  time  and  intellect  we  attribute 
to  almost  every  recreative  pastiilie  ;  and  the  hurry  and  bustle 


192 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


which  so  characterizes  the  avenues  of  riches,  power  or  place, 
are  as  ui^^ompromisingly  opposed  to  the  characteristics  of  the 
French,  as  are  the  phlegmatic,  ponderous,  gravitating  motions 
of  mind  and  body  of  the  EngUsh.  And  yet  it  is  universally 
conspicuous,  the  adaptability  of  our  national  peculiarities  to 
the  language,  manners  and  customs  of  a  French  metropolis  in 
contrast  with  the  stiff  assumption  of  them  by  those  whose 
birthright  and  home  is  separated  merely  by  a  channel  of 
twenty-t^'\^p  or  three  miles  in  width,  rather  than  an  ocean  of 
three  thousand  miles  expanse.  I  have  not  a^yet  had  the 
opportunities  of  personal  impressions,  but  from  the  varied 
origin  of  our  national  birth  and  being  I  should  expect  to  find 
within  the  dominion  of  cur  country,  the  ideality  if  not  reality 
of  every  country,  clime  and  story.  The  variety  of  tempera- 
ture must  of  necessity  leave  its  impress  upon  its  subjects.  And 
although  beneath  the  stern  winter's  blast  and  the  dismal  echo- 
ings  of  our  rock  bound  coasts,  you  find  the  warm,  true  hearts 
of  love  and  sincerity,  yet  the  very  contact  of  nature  must  give 
its  impress.  I  have  frequently  questioned  in  my  mind,  the 
probable  effect  upon  the  passengers  of  the  "  May  Flower,"  if 
God's  Providence  had  landed  them  upon  our  Southern  coasts, 
rather  than  in  the  midst  of  stern  realities  of  a  New  England 
winter  

.  But  where  are  we  ?  In  Paris,  France,  or  Plymouth,  Mass  ? 
Who  doubts  the  propriety  of  the  cognomen  of  these  crude 
papers  as  Rambles  !  If  any  of  your  friends  ever  wish  to  see 
Paris,  by  daylight  or  midnight,  in  the  highest  recherche  refine- 
ments, or  its  more  general  details  of  gaiety,  dissipation  and 
pleasure,  let  them  by  all  means  secure  the  services  of  John 
White,  at  Hotel  de  L'Isle  d' Albion,  No.  211  Rue  St.  Honore. 
An  Englishman  by  birth  ;  a  resident  of  over  thirty  years  in 
Paris  ;  an  honest,  reliable  man,  in  whose  care  you  may  entrust 
your  wife,  daughters,  juveniles  or  purse ;  and  through  whom 
you  can  acquire  any  information,  of  a  particular  or  general 
character. 


FORBIDDEN  LUXURI^.  193 

Under  his  guidance  my  family  were  for  four  weeks  occupied 
in  seeing  in  and  out  of  Paris  ;  and  if  I  would  place  my  pen 
at  the  disposal  of  the  juveniles  and  John  White,  I  am  quite 
positive  there  is  not  a  point,  part  or  pinnacle  of  that  city  whose 
locality  was  not  known  if  not  actually  inspected.  But  favored 
as  my  readers  may  have  been  with  the  rambles  or  wanderings 
of  others,  I  shall  keep  my  pen  off  of  the  paper  in  this  particular, 
although  I  am  well  aware  of  the  loss  to  them  in  so  doing. 
"  See  Paris  and  then  die,"  some  one  is  reported  to  have  said, 
Mf  advice  would  be,  "  see  Paris  and  then — try  to  see  it 
again !"  In  which  hope  I  am  still  expectant,  although  the 
chances  are  growing,  not  beautifully,  but  decidedly  less. 

The  usual  routine  of  tailors,  hatters,  bootmakers,  dress 
makers,  milliners,  gaiter  makers,  glove  makers  and  the  rest  o 
the  catalogue  was  passed  through  and  arranged  for,  and  then 
all  was  bright  and  cheery  as  the  summer's  sky.  Perhaps  some 
of  my  masculine  readers  may  thiiH:  this  enumeration  of  our 
first  acts  misplaced  and  unnecessary  !  All  right,  friend,  if  you  are 
a  single  man.  But  catch  you  within  the  borders  of  Paris  with 
two  or  three  very  near  friends  of  the  gentler  sex,  and  tell  me 
which  you  have  first  learned,  the  way  to  the  "  Yille  de  Paris,'* 

"  Madame  G  s,"  "  Madame  s,'^r  the  Louvre  I 

Have  you  a  comfortable,  easy  habiliment  whose  geniaUjolds 
you  covet,  and  which  you  have  come  to  regard  with  a  reeling 
of  identity  with  yourself  and  comforts  ?  have  you  a  hat  that 
allows  the  heated  brow  to  grow  cool,  and  the  temples  never ^ 
chafed,  with  the  brain  never  fevered  by  carrying  a  reser- 
voir of  heated  air  above  it  ;  or  a  pair  of  boots  that  makes  you  * 
regard  the  itinerant  corn  doctor  as  a  humbug,  and  enables  you 
to  accept  without  a  crouch,  cringe  or  exclamation  of — the 
apology  for  treading,  accidentally  or  in  a  crowd,  upon  your 
lower  projectives  ?  (is  there  such  a  word  ?)  Do  you  own  such 
luxuries  ?  If  you  do,  keep  them  at  home.  You  can  never 
wear  them  in  the  "  Boulevards/'  "  Champs  Elysees,"  or  in  the 
gardens  !  Should  you  venture  to  do  so,  yo^u  will  find  the  oppo* 

17 


194  A  super's  travel  in  EUROPE. 

site  side  of  the  street  much  more  comfortable,  than  to  be  seen 
with  ladies  in  such  a  coat,  shocking  hat  and  large  boots ! 

My  first  appearance  in  the  streets  of  Paris,  some  nineteen 
or  twenty  years  ago,  was  with  a  blue  (my  favorite  color)  coat 
and  gilt  buttons,  turn  over  shirt  collar,  bran  new  hat,  and  the 
latest  cut  trowsers,  &c.,  all  new  and  fresh  from  the  tailors  as 
packed  at  home  for  use  in  Paris  !  My  first  morning's  walk  was  in 
full  confidence  of  my  rig  and  turn  out.  Most  eagerly  I  sought 
the  "  Boulevards,"  having  bought  me  a  new  cane  !  I  wore 
those  clothes  just  one  weeh,  that  being  the  soonest  possible  time 
that  *"  Woodman  "  could  make  my  metamorphose.  If  there 
was  any  back  street  or  lane  that  couldn't  testify  to  that  "  blue 
coat  and  brass  buttons  "  passing  through  them,  it  was  because 
they  were  out  of  the  direct  line  between  the  bankers  and  the 
hotel.  But  the  great  increase  of  strangers,  and  especially 
Americans,  since  that  time,  allows  "  Jonathan  "  to  wear  any- 
thing he  may  fancy,  hut  "  aiiewallow-tailed  blue  coat  with  brass 
buttons!"  (Perhaps  I  had  better  give  the  boys  the  pen,  they 
certainly  could  not  ramble  worse  than  I  have  done.) 

We  were  very  fortunate  in  the  season  at  Paris,  on  many 
accounts,  but  especially  because  of  the  supply  of  the  finest 
grapes.  They  were  left  regularly  every  day  by  a  market  man, 
andjtvere  enjoyed  by  us  without  a  stint.  I  never  saw  better 
friHf  and  the  very  reasonable  price  at  which  they  were 
afforded  placed  them  within  the  reach  of  all.  In  fact  the 
fruit  market  of  Paris  was  always  most  tempting.    But  the  cost 

*  of  pears,  peaches,  apples,  &c.,  made  the  grapes  the  most  avail- 

•  able  and  delicious  to  the  masses. 

Pledging  myself  as  I  have  done,  most  stoically,  (as  my 
direct  descent  from  the  early  founders  and  martyrs  of  our 
State  would  require  me  to  do,)  I  shall  avoid  all  refei'ence  to 
the  bright,  gay,  festive  sights  and  scenes  of  Paris,  and  ask 
your  companionship  in  thought,  while  I  call  upon  our  Consul 
General,  Henry  W.  Spencer,  Esq.,  for  his  assistance  in  an 
experimental  effort  to  visit  the  prisons !    This  was  an  unusual 


PRISONS  OF  PARIS. 


195 


request.  One  of  no  little  embarrassment,  as  the  prison  disci- 
pline and  surveilfaace  was  very  rigid.  If  merely  to  gratify  a 
morbid  curiosity  was  my  impulse  of  action,  tlie  attenii)t  Lad 
better  remain  passive.  But  conscious  of  a  sincere  interest  to 
benefit  humanity, — poor,  weak,  fallen  humanity,  overcome  and 
overpowered  by  temptation  ;  feeling  my  own  strength  to  be  as 
weakness,  except  so  far  as  God's  mercy  shall  "  lead  me  not  into 
temptation,  but  deliver  me  from  evil  ;" 'interested  at  home  in 
the  discipline  and  results  of  our  own  institutions,  I  ventured  to 
ask  from  the  Consul  a  letter  of  introduction  to  the  Prefecture  de 
Police,  and  with  John  White  for  an  interpreter  and  guide, 
commenced  my  tftsk. 

I  was  courteously  received  at  the  headquarters,  and  after  a 
personal  scrutiny  of  my  physiognomy,  address  and  real  inten- 
tion by  the  Chief  of  the  Department,  (into  whose  presence  I 
was  ushered  with  much  formality)  while  he  was  engaged  in 
conversation  with  my  attendant,  inquiring  about  me,  my  posi- 
tion in  Paris,  residence,  family,  &c.,  I  received  a  card  of 
admission  to  every  institution  within  the  jurisdiction  of  the 
department.  It  was  an  unusual  favor;  and  I  may  safely  add,  a 
complimentary  response  to  Mr..  Spencer's  introductory  note. 
The  formality  of  procuring  this  card  had  required  so  much 
time  that  the  ramble  through  the  prison  walls  was  postponed 
to  another  day. 

A  suggestion  from  John  White  to  examine  the  operation  and 
espionage  over  the  cab-letting  system  of  Paris  was  immediately 
acted  upon,  as  the  office  and  officials  were  close  at  hand. 
Whenever  you  enter  a  cab  or  public  carriage  at  any  one  of 
the  innumerable  stands,  the  driver  hands  you  a  small  printed 
card,  containing  the  tariff  list  of  prices  per  course  or  hour, 
from  sunrise  to  sunset,  and  from  sunset  to  sunrise,  and  his 
number.  Every  cab  and  driver  is  registered  by  his  number 
and  the  stand  or  place  assigned  him,  a  clock  and  time-keeper 
being  stationed  at  each.  The  time  of  departure  of  each  cab, 
whether  by  course  or  hour ;  the  time  of  its  return ;  the  time 


196 


A  SU-M:MER's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


of  its  arrival  for  duty,  and  the  time  of  its  leaving  for  the  night 
is  rigidly  kept,  so  that  the  owners  or  corpor^rs  of  cabs  and 
horses  can  at  any  moment  trace  its  course,  length  ©f  absence 
and  the  amount  that  should  have  been  received.  If  there  is 
any  quarrel  between  the  employer  and  the  employed,  and  dis- 
satisfaction of  service,  or  attempted  imposition,  or  pretended 
misunderstanding,  it  is  immediately  inquired  into  by  the 
"  gens  d'arme,"  every  whefe  present,  or  always  near.  He  takes  the 
number  of  the  cab  and  your  own  locahty,  and  if  anything  more 
than  a  mere  casual  misapprehension  exists,  both  complainer 
and  complained  of  are  summarily  brought  before  a  magisterial 
investigation.  But  the  greatest  advantage,  perhaps,  of  the  cab- 
driver  ticket  system,  is  the  unfailing  facility  for  the  recovery 
of  packages  or  valuables  accidentally  lost  or  left  in  the  cab.  A 
handsome  reward  is  given  at  the  end  of  the  municipal  year,  to 
the- driver  who  shall  have  brought  to  the  office  of  this  depart- 
ment the  largest  amount  and  value  of  such  articles.  Any 
neglect  or  concealment  of  lost  parcels  subjects  the  driver  to 
punishment  and  loss  of  service.  At  the  expiration  of  the 
proper  time  for  reclamation,  all  articles  remaining  on  hand  are 
sold  at  auction,  and  the  proceeds  divided  among  the  finders. 

A  personal  test  of  the  efficacy  of  the  system  was  afforded 
for  the  recovery  of  a  nice  umbrella.  During  a  shopping 
excursion,  this  indispensable  part  of  an  out  door  outfit  was  laid 
upon  the  counter.  When  leaving  the  shop  it  was  missed  and 
returned  for.  But  like  the  magic  of  Schaudan,  "it  was  not,  or 
ever  had  been  there."  Notwithstanding  the  exact  spot  of 
deposit  was  most  confidently  pointed  out,  we  had  the  most  posi- 
tive assurance  by  forty  or  less  clerks,  that  "  they  one  and  all 
observed  my  fair  friend  when  entering  the  shop,  and  not  the 
semblance  of  the  lost  article  was  in  her  possession !" 

Honest  John  White's  indignation  at  the  story  of  the  mystery 
expended  itself  upon  the  proprietors  and  attachees  of  the 
establishment ;  the  effisct  of  which,  however,  was  made  known 
to  us  by  the  appearance  of  the  owner  of  a  pretty  pair  of  black 


PRISON  VAN  THE  PRISON  MAZAS. 


197 


eyes  and  curls,  whose  tearful  assurance  of  the  impossibility  of 
such  an  occurrence,  was  too  convincing  (or,  perhaps,  the 
wa^z^ra^  sympathy  at  such  honest  grief,  which  was  excited  in 
those  of  tRe  sterner  sex,  assisted  her  pleadings,)  and  with 
apologies  for  such  a  monstrous  supposition,  the  black  eyes  and 
curls  were  waited  on  to  the  door.  Having  the  ticket  of  the 
cab  accidentally  in  my  pocket,  the  inquiry  at  the  office  of 
registration,  &c.,  was  made,  if,  perchance,  the  cause  of  the 
tears  and  the  expostulations  of  the  curls  might  not  have  been 
4^  left  in  the  cab.  An  investigation  was  commenced.  The  request 
for  the  certificate,  which  1  had  not,  of  the  registration  of  our  lost 
article,  and  which  must  in  all  cases  be  promptly  and  particularly 
made,  cut  off  our  progress.  (If  no  one  but  yourself,  dear  reader, 
was  looking  over  my  pen's  progress,  I  might  say  I  was  glad  of 
it,  because  Jolj||  White's  second  edition  of  wrath  might  have 
produced  another  impression  of  the  teaijp  and  curls  !) 

In  the  yard  of  the  Police  Department  buildings,  stood  the 
prison  van  or  transport  wagon,  a  square  box-like  vehicle, 
built  of  sheet  iron,  with  two  doors  in  the  rear ;  divided  length- 
wise through  the  centre,  by  a  portion  of  the  same  metal cross- 
wise into  small  cells  not  more  than  a  foot  and  a  half  square  ; 
the  doors  of  each  opening  outward  toward  the  rear ;  fastened 
when  closed  by  a  seat,  which  folds  up  for  the  opening  of  the 
door  but  when  entered  closes  it ;  a  small  aperture  in  the  top 
for  the  admission  of  light  and  air ;  and  the  cells  so  arranged 
that  no  sight  or  connection  is  possible  from  the  one  to  the  other . 
This  transport  is  used  for  conveying  criminals,  when  first 
arrested,  to  or  from  trial,  to  and  from  sentence  of  conviction ; 
and  its  passage  is  always  under  the  guard  and  surveillance  of 
an  armed  mounted  escort. 

October  11th,  Tuesday,  my  first  visit  of  inspection  began 
with  the  new  prison,  constructed  as  a  model  for  similar  institu- 
tions, upon  the  Boulevard  Mazas,  and  known  as  the  "  Prison 
Mazas."  The  exterior  f||alls  appear  to  be  about  twenty-five 
or  thirty  feet  in  height ;  from  two  to  three  feet  in  thickness  ; 

m 


198 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


built  solid  of  stonej  with  openings  for  defence  by  musketry 
upon  the  side  facing  the  street.  Passing  the  guard  and  gate 
of  the  exterior  wall,  we  presented  the  card  of  admission  to  the 
officials  in  the  office,  who  were  evidently  iiot  a  little  "Surprised 
at  the  circumstance  and  consent  of  our  visit.  The  registry  of 
the  card  in  a  book,  and  the  time  of  its  presentment  being  en- 
dorsed on  the  back  of  it,  we  were,  with  much  caution  in  locking 
and  unlocking  the  heavy,  impenetrable  doors  •  intervening, 
admitted  into  a  central  office  within  the  prison  walls.  This 
office  was  circular,  in  the  centre  of  a».rotunda,  lighted  with 
glass  upon  every  side,  and  from  which  the  six  long  corridors, 
radiating  from  this  common  centre  were  most  distinctly  visible 
in  every  story,  by  means  of  a  large  window  at  the  extremity 
of  each.  The  corridors  are  of  three  stories  in  height,  con- 
taining thirty-five  cells  on  a  side,  making  tya^  hundred  and 
ten  in  each  wing.  T^e  cells  are  six  feet  wide,  twelve  long, 
and  nine  in  height ;  lighted  by  a  long,  narrow  window  through 
the  outer  wall  at  the  top  ;  and  ventilated  by  means  of  a  com- 
munication with  the  chimney  from  the  basement ;  with  brick 
floors,  ^nd  each  having  a  chair,  table,  good  mattress,  (which  is 
suspended  at  night  across  the  cells  from  hooks  at  a  convenient 
height  on  each  side,  and  in  the  morning  detached  and  neatly 
folded  upon  a  shelf  in  a  recess  beside  the  door ;)  wash  bowl, 
water  pail,  spittoon,  night  cabinet  and  a  gas  burner.  Two  blankets 
are  allowed  each  prisoner  in  winter.  The  temperature  being 
regulated  in  the  corridors  renders  this  covering  sufficient  m 
the  coldest  weather.  The  walls  of  the  cells  are  painted  a 
light  straw  color,  and  with  the  faultless  cleanliness,  made  these 
narrow  limits  as  cheerful  as  circumstances  would  admit.  The 
hours  of  wakefulness  are  from  6  A.  M.  to  8  P.  M.  in  summer, 
and  7  A.  M.  to  7  P.  M.,  in  winter.  The  first  morning  duty  is 
that  of  cleansing  the  cells ;  reading  until  breakfast  at  8,  which 
consists  of  broth  and  coarse  white  bread  ;  dinner  at  3,  P.  M., 
of  bread  and  vegetables  every  day  e|pept  Sundays  and  Thurs- 
days, when  boiled  beef  is  added  in  an  allowance  of  one-fifth  of 


PEISON  MAZAS. 


199 


a  pound.  The  daily  allowance  of  bread  is  one  and  a  half 
pounds,  and  water  freely.  This  prison  is  one  for  detention  of 
persons  awaiting  trial,  or  after  trial  awaiting  sentence,  and  no 
labor  is  required.  It  has  cells  for  more  than  twelve  hundred 
and  the  daily  number  of  inmates  is  from  one  thousand  to  eleven 
hundred.  Between  each  of  the  wings  within  the  outer  Walls, 
is  an  arrangement  somewhat  similar  to  the  interior  for  exercise. 
A  small,  central  circular  building  of  one  story,  from  which 
radiates  twenty  small  yards  in  the  form  of  a  half  open  fan, 
enclifeed  by  high,  brick  walls,  and  overlooked  at  a  glance  from 
windows  near  the  top  of  each  one  of  the  compartments.  A 
guard  is  stationed  above  and  below.  There  is  no  possible 
communication  between  the  prisoners  either  by  sight  or  sound. 
At  the  expiration  of  the  hour,  the  time  alloted  for  recreation? 
the  occupant  of  the  yard  passes  solitary  and  alone  to  his  cell, 
his  place  being  supplied  by  another,  and  so  on  until  the  whole 
number  have  had  similar  opportunities  for  air  and  exercise. 


XXV. 


PRISON  MAZAS — PRISON  DISCIPLINE  AND  DETAILS. 


In  front  of  the  cells  upon  each  side  of  the  corridors,  and  in 
each  story,  are  galleries  about  three  feet  in  width,  with  an  iron 
balustrade  and  hand-rail  upon  the  outer  side,  and  connected  in 
the  centre  by  bridges  with  the  one  opposite,  or  by  stair- 
ways with  those  above  or  below.  Above  the  ofRce  in  the 
rotunda  is  the  chapel,  where  religious  services  are  regularly 
held.  From  the  altar,  the  officiating  priest  can  see,  through  the 
half-open  door,  the  inmates  of  every  cell,  they  hearing  distinctly 
the  service.  "Whenever  communication  from  the  cell  is 
desired  to  the  guard  always  on  duty,  the  inmate  pulls  a  small 
iron  knob,  which  lets  fall,  at  right  angles  to  the  outer  wall,  a 
projecting  piece  of  iron,  similar  to  the  blade  of  a  dinner  knife. 
The  summons  are  promptly  answered.  The  prisoners  have 
the  privilege  of  communicating  with  their  friends  in  what  are 
termed  "  parloirs,"  (speaking  places.)  These  are  divided  into 
cells,  only  wide  enough  for  a  single  person,  and  face  a  passage 
way  three  or  four  feet  wide,  on  the  opnosite  of  wWch  are 
similar  compartments,  or  in  some  cases  a  small  room  facing  the 
cells.  The  front  of  each  is  protected  by  iron  bars  (similar  to 
the  cages  in  a  menagerie,)  and  by  a  fine  wire  netting,  also,  in 
the  more  rigid  prisons. 


PRISON  MAZAS. 


201 


A  guard  is  constantly  on  duty  in  the  passage  between  the 

parloirs,"  to  hear  all  that  is  communicated,  and  to  prevent  the 
giving  and  receiving  of  any  articles  whatever.  The  family  or 
friends  of  the  prisoners  are  first  admitted  into  the  places 
assigned  them,  and  the  prisoner  conducted  to  his  position,  under 
the  escort  of  a  guard.*  I  forget  now  in  which,  but  in  one  of  the 
prisons  I  visited,  I  counted  ten  or  twelve  of  these  sad  inter- 
views at  t\w,  same  time.  And  the  nature  of  these  interchanges 
of  pity  or  reproof,  sympathy  or  censure,  love  or  aversion, 
can  be  imagined  when  the  voice  is  raised  so  as  to  be  audible 
and  distinguishable  over  some  twenty  others,  talking  at  the 
same  time,  separated  by  iron  bars,  and  under  the  rigid  scrutiny 
of  a  re^ntless  guard. 

The  kitchen  and  culinary  arrangement  are  as  neat  and  com- 
plete as  the  scientific  processes  in  this  department  allowed,  and 
many  a  modern  housewife  might,  with  much  profit  to  mind  and 
purse,  imitate  this  peculiarity  of  all  French  culinary  details.  I 
am  well  aware  the  first  step  in  advance  must  be  to  order  to  the 
rear  and  the  cashiering  of  every  brawny  arm  and  broguish 
tongue,  so'  unmistakably  identified  with  those  who  rule  supreme 
in  the  disp^ensation  of  waste,  neglect  and  uncleanliness  in  the 
indisputable  sway  of  our  domestic  discomforts  ! 

The  food  of  the  prison,  after  being  prepared,  is  placed  in  tin 
pans,. eighteen  of  which  fill  an  iron  tray.  Twelve  trays  are 
wheeled  on  railways,  which  traverse  the  basement  to  an  open- 
ing up  which  they  are  drawn  by  pullies  to  the  difierent  stories, 
again  placed  on  cars  reaching  across  the  balustrades  of  the 
corridors,  and  are  thus  distributed,  through  a  small  opening  in 
the  door,  to  the  inmates  of  the  cells,  their  allowance  for  break- 
fast or  dinner.  The  basement  contains,  also,  the  complete 
arrangements  for  ventilation  and  calefaction.  Six  large  stoves 
provide  the  heat  in  winter,  and  in  summer  create  a  current 
of  hot  air  in  the  chimney,  by  which  the  impure  air  of 
the  cells  is  removed  through  the  openings  previously  re- 
ferred to. 


202 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


There  is  a  well  arranged  library,  sick  ward,  medical  dis- 
pensary and  laboratory  connected  with  the  prison,  and  a  "  can- 
tine,"  where  the  prisoners  can  buy  such  articles  of  food  as 
their  purse  or  inclination  admits.  There  are,  in  addition  to 
the  cells  mentioned,  others  in  the  basement,  for  the  punishment 
of  the  refractory,  from  which  the  light  ia^totally  excluded,  and 
with  straw  and  a  severe  diet  give  ample  time  and  suggestions 
for  reformation  and  penitence.  In  speaking  of  tli&  facility  of 
communicating  from  the  cells  to  the  guard,  I  should  have 
mentioned  his  ability,  by  turning  a  smaller  knob,  to  inspect  at 
will  the  condition  and  occupation  of  the  inmate  and  his  quar- 
ters. Communication  to  and  from  the  office  from  every  gallery, 
is  by  means  of  speaking  tubes.  The  officials  all  wear*a  mili- 
tary costume  of  blue  trowsers^  coat  and  cap,  and  from  their  bear- 
ing and  austerity  of  manner  and  look  would  be  supposed  to  have 
seen  service. 

There  is  an  historical  incident  connected  with  this  Prison 
Mazas  of  peculiar  interest,  as  told  me,  while  passing  through 
its  courts  and  corridors,  by  honest  John  White,  who  saw  the 
closing  night  of  the  Republic  of  France  and  the  dawn  of 
the  French  Empire,  at  the  time  of  the  coup  d'etat  of  the 
present  Em'peror,  Napoleon  III.  My  readers  are  un- 
doubtedly familiar  with  the  history  of  this  remarkable  man 
from  his  youth,  through  the  singular,  romantic  changes  of 
time,  fortune  and  place,  until  his  election  as  President  of  the 
new  Republic  of  France  in  1848.  One  v/ould  have  supposed 
this  strange  success,  and  arrival  at  a  point  of  elevation  and 
distinction  far  above  what  would  seem  the  possibility  of  acquisi- 
tion, would  have  satisfied  the  youthful  inheritor  of  a  name 
almost  unequalled  in  the  annals  of  history.  But  the  signifi- 
cance of  that  name  is  forward,  upward.  And  the  French 
President  saw  a  pinnacle  higher  than  his  stand  point.  For 
nearly  three  years  this  pinnacle  was  the  cause  of  disquiet 
and  almost  reckless  ambition. 

The  ministers  of  the  Republic,  statesmen,  politicians,  theolo- 
gians, military  officers,  philos'ophers  and  the  literary  minds  of 


HISTORICAL  INCIDENT.  203 

France,  all  seemed  to  feel  the  inevitable  destiny  of  change,  but 
none  could  tell  when,  where,  how  or  what  that  change  would 
be.  Suspicions,  anxiety  and  care  were  the  engrossing  calcula- 
tions of  the  body  politic,  while  the  still,  deep  current  of  plan 
and  purpose  in  the  mind  of  the  President  gave  no  indication 
of  the  coming  event.  His  popularity  wavered,  was  threatened, . 
.and  his  humiliation  resolved  upon. 

The  Hotel  de  Ville,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  renowned 
edifices  of  Paris,  was  m  scene  of  a  gay  throng  of  wit,  fashion, 
beauty,  mirth  and  festivity  on  the  evening  of  Monday,  Decern 
ber  1st,  1851.  The  President  with  his  cabinet  and  counsellors 
were  present.  The  ministerial,  judicial,  clerical  and  literary 
dignitaries  mingled  in  the  gay  throng.  The  latter  passing  and 
repassing  the  President  in  the  exchange  of  courtly  salutations, 
and  blandishing  words  and  deeds,  wondering  at  the  chilling, 
withering,  annihilating  effect  of  their  arranged  deposition  of 
the  recipient  of  their  smiles  and  congratulations,  as  the  mor- 
row's sun  should  usher  in  the  day  for  the  execution  of  their 
determined  acts  of  humiliation,  disgrace  and  banishment.  The 
President  with  all  the  naivete  of  the  French  courtier,  receives 
these  congratulations  with  the  most  unaffected  suavity  of  man- 
ner, and  retires  from  the  festivities  at  midnight.  Before  three 
o'clock  the  next  morning,  less  than  three  hours  after  these 
friends  of  freedom  and  the  Republic  had  so  heartlessly  bowed 
their  opponent  out  of  their  presence,  the  cold,  cheerless,  stem 
walls  of  the  Prison  Mazas  contained  e^-y  one  of  them ;  the 
empire  was  proclaimed. 

The  Republic  of  France  was  blotted  out  from  the  records 
of  the  world,  and  the  coup  d'etat  of  Louis  Napoleon  greeted 
the  dawning  light  of  another  day,  with  its  dark  drapery  of  lost 
liberty,  freedom  and  progress,  veiling  the  pure  light  of  heaven, 
a^t  shed  its  rays  on  this  new  page  of  the  world's  story.  The 
unblemished  whiteness  of  the  faultless  linen  of  the  former 
supl^ters  of  the  Republic  had  no  strong  contrast  with  the 
pal^Wof  the  cheek  ;  the  full  dress  suit  of  black  was  in  harmony 


204  A  SUMIIER's  travel  in  EUROPE. 

with  the  sad  reality  of  their  destiny  ;  the  light,  lustrous  slipper 
of  the  ball  room  did  not  prevent  the  penetration  of  the  damp- 
ness and  chill  of  cell  floors,  (heretofore  tenantless,)  but  which 
met,  in  its  upward  coursings,  the  cold,  damp  sweat  of  the  fore- 
head, as  it  trickled  its  chilling  findings  of  the  heart's  warm 
*  blood  ;  the  insignia  of  the  Republic  in  tlje  looped  button  hole, 
swelled  its  diminutive  form  into  a  monster,  as  it  reminded  the 
tt^earer  of  the  strange  vicissitudes  of  ^^our;  and  recalled  the 
bewildering  thought  of  its  meaning  anaintentions  when  placed 
there,  and  the  consequence  of  its  being  there  when  the  guest 
of  the  brilliant  and  festive  dancing  hall  should  pass  through 
his  rounds  as  the  keeper  of  Mazas  ! 

This  institution  is  entitled  to  its  appellation  as  the  "  model 
prison."  And  it  was  subsequently  a  source  of  national  pride, 
to  learn  it  was  indebted  for  its  success  in  a  great  degree,  to  the 
Moyamensing  Prison  of  Philadelphia.  I  think  I  have  omitted 
the  sanitary  precautions  observed  in  the  admission  of  every 
prisoner.  He  is  subjected  to  cleansing  by  a  warm  bath,  and 
his  clothes  fumigated  with  sulphur,  to  expel  any  infectious  dis- 
ease.   If  an  invalid  he  goes  directly  to  the  sick  ward. 

Returning  from  "  Mazas  "  my  entrance  to  our  hotel  was 
suggestive  of  that  or  some  other  place  of  "  durance  vile,"  either 
for  my  host  or  myself.  I  have  referred  to  the  great  luxury  of 
the  grapes,  in  having  them  left  daily  at  our  rooms.  But  as 
"  every  rose  has  a  'th^|."  so  had  the  grapes  !  When  you  hire 
rooms  in  a  hotel  that  mis  a  restaurant  and  table  d'hote  in  it,  you 
incur  a  risk  of  ejectment  or  annoyance  you  little  dreamt  of. 
You  are  at  liberty  to  take  your  breakfast  or  dinner  in  or  out 
of  the  house,  as  you  choose.  But  woe  to  the  man,  woman  or 
boy  that  brings  anything  edible  to  your  rooms.  You*  are  con- 
sidered a  fair  subject  for  the  most  contemptible  annoyances  and 
extortions.  Candles  you  must  buy  from  your  hotel  keeperj^t 
a  franc  (twenty  cents)  each.  I  know  that  I  found  our  "  femme- 
de-chambre  "  more  than  once  peering  his  inquisitive  gla^Band 
scrutiny  into  cupboard  and  closet,,  trying  to  explain  t^^on- 


HOUSE  OF  CORRECTION.  205 

derful  duration  of  our  illuminating  material.  Ever^^orning 
there  were  the  same  untouched  bougies  of  the  day  previous.  If 
•he  had  (do  not  forget  that  all  chamhermaids  in  France  are 
men  !)  looked  up  our  loose  coMt  sleeves  regularly  once  a  week 
in  returning  from  a  promenade,  he  might  have  found  the  cause 
in  a  couple  of  long  packages,  in  a  blue  paper,  containing  No.  1 
Spermacetis.  But  if  he  had  forced  the  room  door  lock,  and 
seen  us  every  night  around  a  table  with  a  real  genuine  cup  of 
best  "  Souchong,"  with  cups,  pitchers  and  plates,  there  would 
have  been  less  grape  but  more  shot,  I  fancy,  so  far  as  a  "  rough 
and  tumble  "  of  French  and  Yankee  verhs  could  make. 

October  1 3th  found  John  White  and  myself  in  the  interior 
of  a  large  building  in  the  Eue  de  la  Roquette,  resembling 
externally  far  more  a  feudal  castle  of  the  olden  time  than  a 
palace  of  punishment  and  servitude.  It  was  the  "  INJ^son 
Centrale  d' Education  Correctionnelle,"  or  House  of  Correc- 
tion for  juvenile  offenders.  The  interior  arrangement  at  once 
reminded  the  visitor  of  "  Mazas,"  there  being  six  wings  con- 
verging to  a  central  tower.  If  I  remember  correctly,  there 
are  nearly  one  hundred  cells  in  each  story,  and  capable  of 
containing  five  hundred  prisoners.  The  cells  have  each  a 
common  sized  window  secured  by  iron  gratings,  and  are  seven 
and  a  half  feet  square  by  eight  and  a  half  in  height.  The  * 
furniture  consists  of  a  chair,  table,  iron  bedstead,  mattress,  the 
necessary  articles  for  washing,  water,  &c.,  and  a  shelf  for 
books. 

♦This  prison  is  intended  for  boys  pronounced  by  the  tribu- 
nals as  being  incapable  of  judgment,  under  sixteen  years  of  age, 
and  are  here  subjected  to  restraint  and  discipline  until  their 
twentieth  year.  They  are  never  allowed  to  leave  their  cells,  ex- 
cept for  an  hour's  exercise  each  day,  in  the  open  courts  between 
the  wings,  and  under  the  inspection  of  a  keeper,  or  when  atterrd- 
ing'mass  in  the  chapel.  His  cell  is  all  the  inmate  knows  of  life. 
He  sees  no  on^jjjiears  no  one,  speaks  to  no  one  except  the 
keeper,  from  the  time  of  his  commitment  to  his  discharge.  His 
18 


206 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


recreatidft  are  only  in  imagination  and  the  hour's  cheerless, 
noiseless  play.  Alone  from  all  but  God,  the  boy  exists,  he 
cannot  live.  He  may  have  been  the  cliild  of  shame,  whose  • 
birth  and  being  has  been  in  the  lowest  dregs  of  infamy  and 
crime,  without  childhood,  old  in  wrong  doing,  but  an  infant 
almost  in  years ;  an  excresence  of  society,  upon  whom  the 
warm  genial  rays  of  sunlight  never  shone,  but  to  caution  him 
to  hide  his  crimes ;  the  pure,  soft  moonlight  of  beauty  to  him 
was  hateful,  as  it  forced  him  to  greater  deeds  of  daring  and 
deceit ;  the  bright,  twinkling  starlight  never  suggested  th^ 
thought  of  angels'  eyes  and  sparkling  gems  of  purity;  no 
mother  ever  owned  him  ;  he  never  had  one  since  his  being  ; 
there  has  been  no  home  for  him  ;  nothing  bright  or  beautiful ; 
an  outcast;  a  form  of  humanity  without  its  affections,  and  here 
yoU|pige  him  up,  solitary  and  alone  ;  because  in  following  his 
instincts  of  life  and  existence  he  has  been  trapped  and 
caught. 

Such  were  my  thoughts  as  I  parsed  from  cell  to  cell,  and 
saw  these  boys  solitary  and  alone,  working  wood  and  iron, 
tailoring,  shoe  making,  button  making,  and  other  similar  pur- 
suits. They  are  called  at  6  A.  M.,  wash  themselves,  say  their 
prayers  and  cleanse  their  rooms  ;  at  seven  begin  work  ;  at  nine, 
*  breakfast  of  bread  and  soup  is  brought ;  at  ten  they  work  again 
until  three,  and  then  have  dinner  of  bread  and  vegetables ; 
work  again  from  four  to  six  P.  M.,  and  from  six  until 
eight  are  taught  to  write  and  read  by  a  monitor,  standing 
in  the  long,  still  corridors,  dictating  the  lessons,  wl  ich  ^e 
clearly  heard  through  open,  grated  holes  in  the  doors. 
Their  wants  are  made  known  in  the  same  manner  as  in  the 
Mazas  Prison.  They  are  allowed  certain  wages  for  work,  and 
when  they  leave  prison  the  amount  is  faithfully  paid  to  them, 
although  they  know  nothing  of  it  until  their  discharge.  The 
name  or  place  of  their  birth  is  never  told.  The  keeper  knows 
them  only  by  their  number.  I  saw  one  t^pidling  a  hoop  in 
one  of  the  court  yards,  and  upon  the  gateway  of  his  limited 


MERCILESS  ISOLATION.  207 

pastime  was  his  brass  number,  which  follows  him  wherever  he 
goes. 

The  arrangement  of  the  chapel  was  ingenious  and  fully 
successful  in  maintaining,  without  the  possibility  of  evasion, 
the  isolation  in  which  the  boy  "  lives,  moves  and  has  his  being." 
There  are  four  passage  ways,  one  on  each  side  ;  and  two  in  the 
centre,  separated  by  a  high  board  partition.  Four  boys  thus 
enter  at  once.  The  stalls  are  square,  and  only  of  sufficient 
size  to  admit  one  boy  in  a  standing  position.  As  the  boys 
enter  these  stalls,  the  door  (opening  outward)  is  closed,  and 
this  makes  one  of  the  sides  of  that  adjoining.  Another  occu- 
pant enters,  the  door  of  his  compartment  is  closed  upon  him, 
and  so  one  after  another  is  literally  boxed  in.  The  size  of  the 
stall  prevents  the  possibility  of  the  door  communicating  to  the 
other  being  opened  when  it  is  occupied.  They  are  arranged 
in  the  form  of  an  amphitheatre,  the  rear  higher  than  those 
before,  so  that  the  priest  sees  every  upturned  face,  but  nothing 
of  the  figure  except  the  shoulders,  and  the  boy  has  no  possible 
chance  of  any  change  of  position  but  the  relief  of  standing  on 

•one  or  both  legs. 

I  took  the  position  of  the  priest  at  the  altar,  and  allowed  ray 
imagination  to  fill  those  coffined  boxes  with  those  they  weekly 
or  daily  hold.  I  saw  the  stern,  unyielding  inflexibility  of 
muscle  and  nerve  in  those  who  have  been  so  sadly  taught 
"  tlidr  hands  to  be  against  every  man,  and  every  man's  hand 
agamst  them,"  in  the  exclusion  of  all  the  illuminating  h||pes 
of  life  and  happiness,  which  never  come  to  them  ;  the  mild, 
blue  eye,  indicative  of  a  heart  that  would  melt  with  sensibility 

^nd  affection,  had  there  been  a  mother's  hand  to  have  touched 
the  spring  of  their  existence  ;  the  vacant  stare  of  indifference, 
if  not  mockery,  as  the  appeals  for  virtue  and  holiness  might 
have  reached  Ihe  strange,  untutored,  uncultivated  hearing, 
wondering  if  any  being  of  earth  ever  was  or  could  be  holy, 
pure  and  good  !  I  could  conceive  of  no  more  powerful  emo- 
tions of  mind  or  heart  than  would  exist  at  meeting  the  gaze  of 


203  A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 

so  many  eyes,  under  such  circumstances,  where  the  ^Yhole 
asceticism  of  religion  was  not  softened  by  the  least  particle  of 
sympathy  or  communion.  I  asked  the  stern  Director  who 
accompanied  me  in  my  rounds,  if  this  unbi  oken  isolation  did 
not  tend  to  insanity,  so  entirely  antagonistical  and  repugnant 
to  the  warm,  quick  impulses  of  youth?  I  spoke  of  the  responsi- 
bility its  author  must  have  incurred  in  its  introduction  and 
persistence  ;  almost  pleaded  for  its  abolishment,  at  least  sug- 
gested its  amelioration.  But  the  cold,  calculating  answer  of 
my  morbid  sympathies,  as  he  expressed  by  his  manner  mSfe 
than  words,  satisfied  me  that  were  I  a  suppliant  for  his  mercy, 
my  impulsive  warmth  of  feeling  would  sink  under  his  stoical 
indifference  and  harsh  government.  He  assured  me  insanity 
was  a  thing  unknown  since  the  adoption  of  the  present  system  ; 
heretofore  it  had  existed,  but  now,  never.  That  the  boys 
made  greater  progress  in  mental  and  moi'al  reformation ;  they 
were  more  contented ;  there  were  less  murmurings  and  repi- 
nings,  and  upon  no  account  would  the  change  be  made  from 
the  present  isolation  to  that  of  former  associations.  I  leave  it 
for  the  philanthropist  to  decide.  As  far  as  my  knowledge 
extends,  the  system  in  our  Houses  of  Reformation  has  not 
been  tried.  My  readers  can  reflect  ujDon  my  imperfect 
account  of  this  institution  and  its  workings,  and  as  christians 
and  humanists,  act  accordingly,  in  their  efforts  for  the  elevation 
or  reformation  of  early  fallen  humanity. 

^ne  0^  the  boys  whose  cell  was  opened  for  me,  an^^svho 
was  occupied  with  a  foot  lathe  in  working  iron,  had  copied 
very  creditably  a  portrait  of  J.  Fennimore  Cooper,  from  one  of 
the  cheap  illustrated  publications  of  Paris.    He  was  verv 
much  interested  in  ascertaining  my  being  a  countryman  oT 
this  renowned  author.    I  was  the  first  American  he  had  ever 
seen.    Our  conversation  would  have  been  protracted  and  n  -- 
doubt  mutually  interesting,  but  our  guide  was  apprehensiv 
that  this  breach  of  discipline  would  be  observed.    The  eel 
are  warmed  by  porcelain  stoves,  the  heat  from  which  is  fa» 


APPALLING  INCREASE  OF  CRIME.  209 

more  agreeable  than  those  of  iron.    They  are  very  commoij 
upon  the  'European  continent,  and  I  have  frequently  wondered 
at  their  not  being  introduced  in  this  country. 

The  increase  of  crime,  or  number  of  convictions  of  young 
offenders  in  France,  has  been  almost  incredible  during  the 
past  ten  years.  I  have  not  the  statistics  since  1854,  but  from 
those,  if  at  all  in  comparison  with  the  preceding  ten  or 
twelve  years,  it  must  be  very  great.  In  1837  there  were 
thirteen  hundred  and  thirty -four  young  prisoners.  In  1847, 
four  thousand,  two  hundred  and  seventy-six.  And  in  1854 
the  number  had  increased  to  nine  thousand,  three  hundred  and 
sixty-four.  If  the  increase  in  adult  crime  bears  any  propor- 
tion to  this  fearful  progress  of  juvenile  delinquency  and  sin, 
that  country  is  in  a  terrible  state  of  depravity.  Whether  this 
increase  is  the  natural  cause  and  effect  of  the  ages  of  progress, 
or  if  the  system  of  recognition  of  youthful  derelictions  from 
virtue  and  morality  has  been  the  more  widely  extended,  are 
questions  referred  to  those  who  have  made  this  very  interesting 
subject  a  m^ter  of  scientific  investigation  or  philanthropic 
study. 

The  department  of  the  Seine  (which  includes  the  city  of 
Paris)  furnishes  twelve  hundred  and  nineteen  youthful  delin- 
quents and  some  of  the  others  only  five  and  six.  The  expense 
of  supporting  an  adult  prisoner,  in  the  French  prisons,  is 
generally  estimated  to.  cost  about  sixty  centimes  (twelve  cents) 
per  day ;  but  those  of  the  House  of  Correction  cost  between 
eighty  and  ninety  centimes  per  day,  owing  to  the  increased 
expenses  of  the  establishment. 

The  Reform  Schools  in  our  country,  with  whose  arrange- 
ments and  discipline  I  have  had  opportunities  of  becoming 
more  familiar,  diflj|i'  in  every  essential  particular  from  those  I 
visited  in  France  and  England.  In  the  latter  institutions 
females  are  never  admitted  as  convicts.  Children  of  more 
tender  years  of  infancy  are  excluded,  and  the  discipline  is  more 
*18 


210 


A  summer's    travel  IX  EUROPE. 


^J|)arental.  And  while  the  intercourse  allowed  among  the  in- 
mates of  the  English,  is  under  strict  surveillance,  and  may  be 
limited,  though  extensive  enough  to  allow  of  imparting  the 
most  corrupt  and  pernicious  communications,  yet  even  under 
these  disadvantages  the  system  is  less  repulsive  than  the 
chilling  isolations  of  the  French,  while  the  young  heart's 
blood  flows  warmly  in  the  impulses  and  energies  of  the  spring 
time  of  life. 


XXVI. 


"depot  des  condamnes." 

■  Directly  opposite  to  the  House  of  Correction,  in  Rue  de  la 
Roquette,  is  the  Depot  des  Condamnes,  ((jj^rison  for  the 
Condemned.)  It  is  a  large  structure  of  three  stories  in  height, 
having  a  spacious  quadrangular  court  in  the  centre.  The  first 
story  is  appropriated  to  workshops,  in  which  book-binding, 
shoe-making  and  leather-making  are  principally  prosecuted. 
The  second  and  third  floors  are  divided  into  cells'  for  prisoners. 
The  western  wing,  however,  is  occupied  by  those  intrusted  with 
the  administration  of  the  institution,  store  rooms,  guard's  and 
porter's  room. 

A  smaller  court  on  the  eastern  side  is  bounded  by  the 
large  chapel  and  infirmary.  There  are,  upon  the  lower  floor,' 
cells  without  light,  for  the  punishment  of  the  refractory,  and 
three  of  a  similar  gloomy  character  for  the  retention  of  crimi- 
nals condemned  to  death.  As  the  guide  passed  one  of  these, 
he  pointed  significantly  to  the  door,  and  in  a  whisper  informed 
me  that  the  occupant  in  a  fe\^ays  more  would  leave  the  cell 
forever.  It  made  a  shudder  pass  through  me  to  think  that  so 
near  eternity  was  a  fellow  creature,  whose  days  were  num- 
bered. The  thought  was  present  with  me  in  a  moment,  why  was 
I  a  listener  to  his  doom,  and  not  the  participator  of  it.  "  Lead 


212 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


US  not  into  temptation,  but  deliver  us  from  evil,"  was  my  only 
response  to  the  guide's  information. 

This  prison  is  not  what  its  name  would  indicate.  It  is  more 
especially  a  place  of  temporary  confinement,  (scarcely  ever 
exceeding  terms  of  six  months,)  for  criminals  condensed  to 
the  Galleys  at  Rochefort,  Toulon,  &c.,  and  for  thos^^hose 
sentence  is  death.  A  prisoner  sentenced  to  a  mild  punishment, 
may,  by  paying  twelve  sous  per  day,  fulfill  his  term^"  con- 
finement within  its  walls.  All  convicts  are  required  as  far  as 
.possible,  to  work  at  some  trade,  but  these  are  so  very  limited 
in  variety,  that  a  new  trade  is  necessarily  learned.  The  work 
is  paid  for  at  a  certain  price,  one-quarter  of  which  is  for  the 
convict  every  Saturday,  one-quarter  on  his  discharge,  and  the 
remaining  one-half  government  retains  for  the  expenses  of  the 
prison.  Ten  hours  per  day  for  labor  and  two  for  exercise  are 
the  rules.  Th^llowance  for  each  convict  is  one  and  a  half 
pounds  of  coarS,  but  nutritious  bread  per  day,  a  broth  soup 
for  breakfast,  and  one  of  vegetables  for  dinner,  with  a  meat 
dinner  two  days  in  a  week. 

Each  one  is  called  by  name  at  the  door  of  the  work-rooms, 
and  bringing  his  tin  dish  in  his  hand,  receives  his  allowance 
from  a  large  vessel  brought  to  the  different  wards.  It  was 
dinner  time  during  my  visit,  and  I  never  saw  humanity  so 
revoltingly  fed.  The  men  came  directly  from  their  work,  un- 
shaven and  rough  in  their  prison  garb  and  toilet ;  without 
..knives,  forks  or  spoons,  (in  some  instances,)  the  bread  absorbed 
the  soup  and  was  eaten  with  a  rush,  if  not  with  a  relish.  Each 
convict  occupies  a  single  cell  at  night,  and  is  locked  in.  The 
cells  are  simply  dormitories,  without  furniture  except  iron  bed- 
steads ;  the  ablutions  of  the  prisoners  being  in  a  general  wash- 
room. The  whole  arrangement(^cept  the  distribution  of  food 
was  very  commendable,  and  the  regard  for  cleanliness  and 
sanitary  regulations  well  observed.  The  average  number  of 
convicts  is  about  four  hundred.  Friends  are  admitted  to  the 
parloirs  on  Thursday  and  Sundays.  The  buildings  are 
ij^armed  by  a  general  heating  apparatus,  not  by  stoves. 


YANKEES  OUTWITTED. 


213 


•  I  am  almost  tempted  in  these  days  of  duplicity  and  deceit, 
to  pass  over  the  account  of  leather-making  by  which  the  sole 
of  a  sHpper  upon  my  desk  before  me  had  its  form  and  sub- 
stance. I  had  supposed  Yankee  ingenuity  and  shrewdness  had 
exhausted  all  tricks  and  contrivances  for  the  production  of 
every  kind  of  material.  •But  the  heaps  of  "  cobbler's  scraps  " 
prove  that  something  can  be  taught  a  Yankee  yet.  These 
scraps  from  the  shoe  and  harness-makers,  and  other  \^'kers  in 
leather  are  collected  and  washed,  then  placed  perfectly  smooth 
in  a  shallow  tin  pan  about  eighteen  inches  broad  by  twenty- 
four  wide,  and  one  deep.  A  coat  of  thick  adhesive  paste  is 
passed  over  the  first  layer.  Another  layer  of  leather  scraps, 
t-ien  paste,  and  thus  alternately  leather  and  paste,  until  a  -lieet 
of  the  material  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  thickness  is 
produced.  This  is  then  taken  from  the  pan,  placed  upon 
boards  under  a  powerful  hydraulic  press  until  it  has  acquired 
sufficient  compactness  and  firmness,  and  being  dried  by  heat, 
you  have  a  miniature  side  of  sole  leather,  which  well  challenges 
any  suspicions  of  its  ingenious  production.  It  cuts  and  works 
as  other  leather,  and  is  used  for  soles  to  slippers  and  the  pecu- 
liar woolen  shoes  of  the  French  peasantry  and  laborers.  For 
dry  weather  it  does  very  w^ell,  but  the  beautiful  hymn  of 
"  Peace  troubled  soul  "  would  find  its  "  parody  "  or  rather  its 
literal  meaning,  if  the  wearer  of  this  new  "  French  patent 
leather"  should  incautiously  venture  out  in  a  rain  storm,  or 
stroll  amidst  flowers  at  "  dewy  eve  !" 

The  very  few  branches  of  mechanical  pursuits  in  this  prison 
subject  the  inmates  to  a  restricted  ability  for  their  comfort  or 
advantage.  Without  an  exception,  (as  I  now  remember.)  the 
labor  of  all  convicts  is  remunerated  by  ^i^rnment  to  a  cer-^ 
tain  standard  price.  At  almost  every  ^Rtitution  there  are 
cantineSy  or  depots  for  the  sale  of  the  simpler  luxuries  of  food 
or  diet.  When  the  labor  is  in  daily  demand,  the  abiKty  for 
purchase  of  these  articles  from  the  cantine  is  of  no  small  con- 
sideration.   But  it  is  no  uncommon  sight  in  the  warmer  sea- 


214 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


sons  of  the  year,  to  see  one  or  two  hundred  convicts  lazily- 
sauntering,  idly  lying  in  the  court-yard,  or  around  the  fountain 
in  the  centre.  In  winter,  the  large  heated  apartment  called 
the  "  chauffoir  "  is  the  rendezvous  for  them,  when  the  work- 
shops are  still  or  over  occupied.  Philanthropy  in  every  case 
of  convicted  crime  should  furnish  useful  occupation,  to  prevent 
a  morbid  loss  of  humanity's  impress  and  destiny  ;  to  create, 
perhapHfor  the  first  time,  the  consciousness  of  obscured  talent, 
and  especially  if  the  reformation  follows  detection  and  punish- 
ment, and  that  a  respectable  means  of  livelihood  may  be  at 
hand,  obviating  the  proneness  or  necessity  of  crime  in  sustain- 
ing the  imperative  laws  of  nature  for  food  and  being. 

The  visit  (Oct.  13th,)  to  the  prison  St.  Lazarre,  (Rue  du  Fau- 
borg  St.  Denis,)  where  I  saw  the  greater  portion  of  several 
hundred  females,  was  perhaps  the  most  interesting  of  any, 
(except  the  House  of  Correction  for  boys,)  on  account  of  the 
peculiar  treatment  necessary  to  the  sex,  and  the  severity  or 
mildness  of  its  administration.  The  buildings  were  formerly 
the  convent  of  St.  Lazarre,  a  place  of  much  celebrity  in  the 
early  French  history.  It  is  appropriated  to  female  convicts 
exclusively  ;  for  those  whose  sentence  of  imprisonment  does 
not  exceed  one  year,  and  for  the  detention  of  others  on  whom 
a  severer  penalty  has  been  imposed. 

The  prison  is  divided  into  three  sections,  entirely  distinct 
from  each  other.  The  first  is  for  prisoners  awaiting  their  trial ; 
the  second  for  others  undergoing  punishment  on  sentence ;  and 
.  the  third  for  children  under  sixteen  years  of  age.  An  infirmary 
is  connected  with  each  division.  The  children  are  kept  at 
night  in  separate  cells,  opening  upon  galleries,  protected  by 
0  iron  bars  and  la^kes  at  the  windows.  They  are  taught  to 
read  and  write  in^iasses,  and  an  exclusion  from  these  exercises 
is  sufficient  punishment  for  any  misdemeanor.  They  meet  in 
large  lialls,  as  recitation  rooms,  and  the  arrangements  for  their 
mental  and  moral  improvement  are  commendable,  and  I  should 
suppose,  from  their  appearance,  successful. 


A  REFORMATION  DEMANDED, 


215 


The  inmates  of  the  second  division  are  nearly  exclusively 
females  of  disreputable  character,  and  are  very  numerous.  The 
police  regulations  in  regard  to  this  class  of  inhabitants  of  the 
larger  cities  are  very  severe.  They  are  not  allowed  to  accost 
any  one  in  the  streets,  or  to  loiter  or  stop '  for  the  least  time* 
Any  lewdness  of  conduct  or  language  is  immediately  arrested* 
any  peculiarity  of  dress  or  deportment  is  pron\ptly  checked.  And 
the|e  regulations  are  in  such  strong  contrast  with  the  unchecked 
an^uniimited  abandonment  of  modesty  and  propriety  in  our 
own  streets,  as  to  call  forth  the  recognition  and  highest  approval 
of  strangers,  particularly  Americans.  ^ 

Unless  this  crying  shame  is  rebuked  by  those  in  authority, 
and  in  response  to  the  demands  of  public  sentiment,  the  time 
is  not  far  distant  (if  not  now)  w^hen  every  husband,  father  and 
brother  will  object  to  the  contact  of  the  unblushing  effrontery 
and  shameless  modesty  seen  in  our  public  streets  and  places  of 
resort.  If  ever  the  field  of  christian  philanthropy  was  exten- 
sive, here  is  one  of  its  most  prominent  localities.  I  speak  not 
of  any  particular  place,  although  the  existence  of  the  evil 

in  is  appalling,  and  far  outreacliing  in  its  magnitude 

the  widest  apprehensions  of  the  reformers  and  advocates  of 
purity,  morality  and  religion.  Woman,  the  last  at  the  cross  of 
a  crucified  Saviour,  the  first  at  the  grave  of  a  risen  Redeeix^, 
the  centre  of  earth's  love  and  highest  hope,  for  whom  life  has 
no  sacrifice  too  dear  rather  than  her  loss,  should  remember  the 
power  of  her  influence,  impelling  man  heavenward,  or  to  the 
degradation  of  the  depraved,  w^hen  that  influence  is  from  the 
corrupting  source  of  lost  virtue  and  chastity.  (H 

In  the  second  section  of  the  prison  St.  Lazarre  is  an  in- 
firmary of  seventeen  wards,  containing  beds  for  three  hundred 
and  forty  patients,-^none  to  many  for  the  accommodation  of 
those  requiring  medical  treatment,  judging  from  the  occupancy 
of  the  wards  as  I  passed  through  them.  The  convicts  are 
employed  principally  in  sewinj^,  in  large  apartments,  ranged 
upon  elevated  seats,  one  above  the  other,  under  the  teaching  and 

# 


216 


A  summer's  travel   in  EUROPE. 


surveillance  of  a  Sister  of  St.  Joseph,  (forty  of  whom  are  in 
attendance  in  this  prison,)  who  presides  at  a  desk'  command- 
ing the  apartment,  and  maintaining  silence  and  attention  to 
work. 

The  prisoners  of  the  second  section  wear  a  loose,  grey  woolen 
dress,  gathered  at  the  waist  by  a  belt  of  the  same,  white  aprons 
and  caps,  and  generally  in  this  simple  attire  maintaining  the 
reputation  of  their  country-women  for  neatness  and  cleanlb^ss 
of  face  and  figure.  Those  of  the  other  section  wear  a  similar 
dress  of  brown  color.  The  same  allowance  of  a  quarter, 
weekly,  of  their  eaf^iings,  (and  the  same  on  their  discharge,)  is 
allowed  them,  as  at  the  other  institutions.  The  fare  is  similar 
to  that  mentioned,  bread  and  vegetable  soup,  with  meat  on 
Sundays  and  Thursdays.  There  is  a  cantine  also  here,  and 
a  chapel  accommodating  nine  hundred  persons.  The  whole 
number  of  convicts  aimually  averages  nearly  ten  thousand, 
there  being  one  thousand  inmates  at  a  time,  ^nd  the  prison 
capable  of  providing  for  twelve  hundred. 

The  dormitories  are  on  the  attic  floor,  and  are  open,  well- 
ventilated  apartments.  But  the  arrangement  for  ablutions,  &c., 
were  very  objectionable,  if  sanitary.  The  inmates  are  allowed 
one  hour's  recreation  daily  out  of  doors.  Their  ages  vary 
^m  sixteen  to  sixty.  The  difference  between  the  simple 
prison  garb  and  the  crinoline  and  flounces  of  the  Boulevards, 
between  the  pale,  wan  features  of  excess  and  dissipation  and 
the  fair,  faultless  face  of  the  blond  and  the  rose,  is  most  striking 
and  disheartening.  But  the  "  cantine  "  does  not  supply  the 
"  roug^or  pearl  powder." 

The  plain  bread  and  soup  with  the  regular  hours  and  work 
of  discipline  and  restraint,  are  not  generally  as  stimulating,  as  an 
unreserved  selection  from  the  bill  of  fare  ^f  the  "  Cafe  Trois 
Freres,"  or  the  latter's  suppers  of  game  and  wine,  when  the  opera 
is  finished.  Friends  are  regularly  admitted  to  the  "  parloirs." 

sympathies  were  most  vividly  excited  by  the  arrival  of  the 
prison  van,  before  described,  and  the  entrance  into  the  ofiice  of  a 


THE  EMPEROR  AND  EMPRESS. 


217 


well-dressed  young  woman  accompanied  by  an  interesting  girl 
of  three  or  four  years  of  age,  who  from  necessity  was  to  be  a 
participator  of  her  mother's  imprisonment  and  dishonor.  Truly 
the  sins  of  the  parent  accompany  the  child.  The  prison  is 
guarded  by  soldiers  on  the  outside,  and,  excepting  the  neces- 
sary attaches  of  the  sterner  sex,  its  interior  administration  is 
intrusted  to  the  Sisters  of  Charity,  who  are  ever  present  and 
active  in  all  works  of  self  denial  and  forbearance,  as  if  in 
compliance  to  that  stern  appreciation  of  religious  duty,  which, 
as  they  suppose,  demands  the  annihilation  of  almost  every 
instinct  of  nature  and  domestic  life  and  duty. 

Returning  homeward,  a  large  collection  of  the  cosmopolitan 
pojpulation  of  Paris  in  the  spacious  square  between  the  Louvre 
and  Palais  Royal,  indicated  the  existence  of  an  unusual  cir- 
cumstance of  note  or  importance.  A  glance  to  the  court  of 
the  Palais  Royal  explained  the  gathertng,  as  an  anxious  crowd 
waiting  to  see  the  Emperor,  whose  unostentatinus  equipage 
was  just  within  the  gateway.  Alittle  delay  favored  my  family 
with  a  near  and  satisfactory  view  of  the  Emperor  and  Empress, 
on  their  return  from  their  weekly  call  upon  his  relative, 
Prince  Napoleon. 

The  appearance  of  the  Empress,  whom  I  had  seen  beforcj 
was  that  of  a  delicate,  refined  lady,  without  the  first  effort  of 
conspicuous  personality  in  her  manner  or  simple  wardrobe. 
Neatly  attired,  her  tout-ensemhle  indicated  the  highest  appre- 
ciation of  an  intelligent,  edi^ated  woman.  (Would  I  could 
venture,  only  for  once  mol^pto  expostulate  with  my  fair 
friends  against  silks,  satins,  laces,  jewelry  and  an  impropriety 
of  dress,  in  form  and  figure,  for  the  street  or  church — so  incon- 
sistent with  a  well  educated,  appreciative,  refined  mind !)  Her 
face  was  expressive  of  pensive  gentleness  and  amiability. 

The  Emperor,  in  a  light  suit  of  grey,  had  nothing  to  distin- 
guish him  from  a  well  dressed,  polished  gentleman.  There 
are  so  many  correct  portraitures  of  him  in  almost  every  print 
and  book  shop,  that  the  farther  ramble  of  my  pen  over  his 
19 


218 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


physiognomy  is  unnecessary.  In  his  general  appearance  no 
one  would  suppose  him  to  be  what  he  is.  Of  medium  stature 
and  form ;  with  mild  but  firmly  expressive  blue  eyes  ;  as  he 
walks  leisurely  along  the  walks  of  the  Bois-de-Boulogne,  in 
conversation  with  a  friend,  upon  whose  arm  in  unafiected  con- 
fidence he  leans,  you  would  suppose  him  to  be  a  man  of  literary 
or  scientific  destination,  whose  works  and  words  were  of  value 
upon  some  favored  subject  upon  which  his  mental  energies  had 
been  concentrated.  But  never  would  the  ideality  of  one  of 
the  most  remarkable  men  of  the  age  select  him  as  the  Emperor, 
or  as  the  personification  or  identity  of  his  peculiarities  of  mind 
or  character.  A  single  event  gave  me  in  an  instant",  better 
appreciations  of  this  wonderful  man  than  all  I  had  ever  read 
of  him. 

Returning,  one  afternoon,  from  the  Hippodrome  in  Paris  with 
a  friend,  in  the  autumn  of  1854,  not  far  from  the  Arc-de-Triom- 
phe,  we  saw tw^o  gentlemen  on  horseback  approaching  us  very 
slowly.  As  they  came  nearer,  we  recognized  the  Emperor  and 
a  friend  riding.  There  were  but  very  few  persons  upon  this 
upper  end  of  the  Champs  Elysees,  and  our  attention  was  of 
course  directed  to  the  horsemen.  When  directly  opposite  to 
us,  our  hats  were  raised  in  respectful  salutation,  which  was 
promptly  and  courteously  responded  to.  Immediately  the 
report  of  a  pistol  was  heard,  and  I  exclaimed  that  the  Emperor 
had  been  shot  at.  Rapidly  turning  to  look  across  the  avenue, 
we  saw,  a  little  in  advanceg|^he  Emperor,  but  obscured 
partly  by  his  horse,  the  figur^W  a  man,  and  a  second  report 
and  smoke  from  a  pistol  shot  followed. 

Rushing  forward  to  his  assistance,  or  to  the  securing  of  the 
assassin,  I  found  the  letter  closely  pinned  and  held  by  two 
workmen  in  the  ordinary  blue  blouse  worn  by  their  craft.  Im- 
mediately, as  if  by  magic,  the  avenue  was  alive  with  gens- 
d'armes  and  people,  (for  it  seemed  as  if  they  came  from  the 
ground,  so  rapidly  they  gathered,)  and  Pianori  (which  was  the 
assassin's  name)  -was  soon  placed  beyond  the  possibility  of 


LOUIS  NAPOLEON. 


219 


hope  or  rescue.  The  story  spread  with  the  rapidity  of  thought, 
and  where,  five  n^Rites  previous,  you  could  have  counted  the 
persons  within  siglit  and  hearing,  now  there  were  hundreds 
if  not  thousands  rushing  from  every  direction  to  the  spot^ 
anxious  and  excited  to  know  the  result. 

During  this  commotion  I  was  very  near  the  Emperor,  and 
finding  the  murderer  secured,  T  watched  most  closely  the  for- 
mer's manner  and  composure.  After  the  second  shot,%e  moved 
forward  as  before,  perhaps  twenty  or  thirty  paces,  then  turned 
his  horse  about  and  came  close  to  the  sidewalk,  where,  upon 
one  of  the  wooden  benches,  laid  half  prostrate,  was  the  assassin, 
pale,  death-like  and  haggard  ;  his  arms  extended  each  side  by 
the  firm,  lion-like  grasp  of  his  custodians ;  his  legs  also  sepa- 
rated and  firmly  held  apart ;  his  breast  bared  in  the  struggle, 
and  his  appearance  that  of  a  young  man  of  twenty-three  or 
five  years  of  age.  He  was  well  dressed,  with  black  eyes,  hair 
and  heavy  beard,  an  Italian  cast  of  features,  and  would  have 
been  supposed  to  be  an  artist  in  music  or  painting. 

The  Emperor  fixed  an  intense,  searching  gaze  at  his  prostrate 
foe,  scanning  most  critically  every  feature  and  form,  as  if  it 
might  be  possible  to  identify  some  time  or  place  of  contact ;  to 
read  the  motive  for  the  act,  or,  perhaps,  in  that  cold,  stern, 
withering  stare,  to  prove  himself  insensible  to  fear,  and  forever 
annihilate  in  the  mind  of  his  assailant  the  least  ray  of  hope  for 
mercy.  Not  a  musc^or  lineament  of  his  face  moved.  But 
into  the  innermost  rWhes  of  consciousness,  that  steady,  un- 
wavering, piercing^  glance  was  thrown.  And  then,  quietly 
guiding  his  horse  away  the  same  leisure  pace,  apparently 
the  same  conversation  was  resumed. 

The  afternoon's  recreation  and  ride  was  as  uninterruptedly 
continued,  and  an  observer,  ignorant  of  the  Emperor's  person, 
might  have  justly  supposed  him  ignorant  of  t^  attempt  at 
murder,  so  little  moved  was  he  in  the  excited  throng.  The 
Empress  had  preceded  him  in  her  afternoon's  drive,  and  when 
returning  she  firs#knew  of  the.  occurrence,  it  seemed  as  if 


220 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


reason  miglit  falter  in  its  sway.  Her  cari^ge  drove  down  the 
avenue  at  a  rapid  rate.  She  was  in  tears^nd  most  nervously 
excited,  while  the  cries  of  "  Vive  I'Empereur  "  drew  forth  her 
gracious  smiles,  and  her  appearance  and  manner  would  have 
roused  the  activity  of  the  whole  population  in  avenging  her  grief 
if  the  arrest  of  her  persecutor  had  not  been  known  simulta- 
neously )yith  his  mad  assault. 

The  Emperor  returned  as  he  went.  A  close  cab,  with 
gens-d'armes  inside  and  out  guarding  the  assassin,  drove  across 
the  river  to  the  prison.  A  few  short  weeks  was  all  that 
remained  of  time  to  Pianori,  before  the  sharp  edge  of  the 
blade  of  the  guillotine  had  rendered  his  form  a  headless  mass, 
and  the  event  became  'the  historian's  perquisite.  Perhaps  the 
attack  of  Orsini,  with  grenades,  upon  the  Emperor  and  Em- 
press in  their  carriage,  at  the  doors  of  the  Italian  Opera,  was 
more  desperate ;  but  even  then,  among  the  excited  mass,  the 
Emperor  alone  was  cool,  and  gave  directions  for  the  disposal 
of  the  killed  and  wounded  previous  to  taking  his  seat  in  his 
box  at  the  opera,,  where  he  remained  to  the  close  of  the 
performance. 


xxvn. 

PARIS,  SEEN  AS  IT  SHOULD  BE. 

The  last  paper  might  with  propriety  be  the  one  of  leave- 
taking  from  Paris.  But  the  pleasures  of  memory  are  here  so 
prolific  that  my  pen  falters  in  writing  farewell !  Not  that  I 
would  recall  the  sad  events  of  the  two  preceding  weeks  ;  the 
first,  the  one  in  which  the  Hon.  J.  Y.  Mason,  (late  Minister 
from  the  United  States  to  the  Court  of  St.  Cloud,)  died  and 
was  buried,  or  the  last  week,  in  which  the  public  meeting  of 
sympathy  by  all  the  Americans  in  Paris,  at  the  American 
Chapel,  was  held.  Would  that  memory  might  obliterate  as 
easily  in  fact  as  in  retrospection,  the  circumstances  connected 
with  these  two  events.  No  other  public  ceremony  has  been? 
in  my  opinion,  so  derogating  and  unsatisfactory  as  these  two 
services  in  the  French  Capital.  To  whom  the  responsibility 
attaches  itself  I  know  not.  Rather  would  I  bring  before  you 
the  beautiful  flowers  and  gardens  of  the  "  Tuilleries,"  "  Lux- 
embourg," "  Palais  Royal,"  "  Champs  Elysees,"  "  Jardin  des 

Plants,"  "  Jardin  Mabile  ,"  the  catalogue  even  then 

half  Qomplete ;  music  of  the  most  recherche  talent,  in  orches- 
tral, martial  or  concert  arrangements,  free  as  the  air  of  heaven, 
that  sustains  or  distributes  its  harmony  ;  or  if  paid  for,  by  the 
demand  of  so  small  a  consideration  in  pecuniary  amount,  that 
19* 


222 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


it  is  almost  nominal  in  many  of  •  the  entertainments,  and 
always  at  a  cost  within  the  reach  of  all,  whose  appreciative 
enjoyment  cl^j^uUy  submits  to  the  sacrifice  of  other  luxuries 
less  elevating  and  satisfying ;  or  the  rich  treasures  of  art  in 
the  Louvre,  and  the  other  almost  numberless  galleries  and 
cabinets  of  churches  and  palaces ;  the  beautiful  drives  and 
gardens  of  the  Bois-de-Bologne,  St.»  Cloud,  Versailles  and 
Fontainebleau  ;  the  invaluable  researches  of  science  in  every 
department  of  medicine  or  metaphysics  ;  the  well  dressed,  well 
mannered  population, — the  whole  of  Paris,  by  daylight  or  gas- 
light, so  far  as  propriety  can  carry  your  readers,  all  is  fascina- 
ting and  enchanting,  if  your  own  sympathies  and  cultivated 
associations  are  with  the  bright  and  beautiful.  All  is  misan- 
thropic, gloomy,  sour  and  sad,  if,  with  tortured  mind  and  nerve, 
you  look  through  a  diseased  vision,  finding  cause  for  jealousy 
and  suspicion  in  every  word,  way  and  work  regulated  by  cir- 
cumstances as  unavoidable  as  they  may  be  to  you  iinintelligihle. 

If,  with  such  a  mind  and  temper,  you  go  through  Paris  or 
anywhere,  with  friends  whose  warm,  gushing  emotions  of  love 
and  affection  for  you,  are  chilled  and  blasted  by  the  very 
atmosphere  of  contact  with  your  suspicious  misanthropy  ;  or 
live  and  move  on  solitary  and  alone,  a  recreant  to  all  of  happi- 
ness, friendship  or  pleasure  God  has  thrown  around  you  ;  if, 
with  such  emotions,  you  exist,  then  throw  away  my  travel- 
ler's story,  for  you  never  can  appreciate  the  disappointment  of 
inclination  and  reality,  when,  with  honest  reluctance,  I  have  said 
to  Paris,  farewell ! 

Visiting  for  the  last  time  a  Professor  of  the  Tonsorial  Art, 
whose  arrangement  for  shaving  was  an  ordinary  low-back  chair? 
without  a  head  rest ;  and  while  in  which,  undergoing  the 
operation  of  a  shave,  (figuratively  and  literally,)  you  bend 
your  head  back  till  the  tendons  of  your  neck  cry  for  mercy 
and  preservation  ;  then  forward  for  the  indispensable  combing, 
tangling,  pulling,  temper  losing,  shampooing  operation  ;  while 
in  this  mai'tyrdom,  I  counted  the  number  of  persons  calling  at 


REVERIE  IN  A  BARBER'S  SHOP.  223 

the  baker's  shop  opposite,  for  the  morning  breakfast  roll  of 
bread.  It  has  passed  into  oblivion,  the  count  I  made ;  but 
there  was  the  artist  and  cantonnier  ;  maids  from  the  milliners 
and  grisettes  from  the  stores,  students  and  laborers  ;  the  broken 
down  lord  and  the  aspiring  boy,  numberless  in  throng  and 
variety  each  with  the  simple  purchase  of  a  penny's  worth  of 
bread,  necessary  to  sustain  nature,  but  forming  no  part  of  a 
Yankee's  idea  of  breakfast ;  all  happy  ! 

.What  a  people !  Without  the  thought  for  the  morrow  or 
a  care  for  the  present ;  happy  here,  anticipating  happiness 
hei;eafter !  Careless  ^  the  opinions  of  those  who^would  cavil  j 
answering  the  smile,  no  matter  from  whom  or  where  ;  indiffe- 
rent to  the  occupancy  of  the  Tuilleries,  while  the  opera,  gar- 
dens and  cafes  are  open ;  unconscious  of  the  glittering  livery 
of  aristocracy,  so  long  as  the  cab  charges  but  one  And  a  half 
franc  the  hour.  What  a  people  ! 

From  this  place  of  reverie  (pray  why  can't  the  French 
barbers  adopt  the  simple,  easy  chair  of  Yankee  land?  one 

shave  in  —  is  worth  a  dozen  in  that  city  ;  but  the  reverie 

over,)  my  steps  were  directed  to  Mr.  Lowes,  the  very  gentle- 
manly agent  of  the  Cunard  line,  (No.  12  Rue  de  la  Bourse,) 
and  then  a  search  in  good  earnest  for  the  traps  and  the  treas- 
ures of  a  month's  stay  and  purchase  in  Paris.  I  honestly 
believe  a  Frenchman  is  prompt  but  once  in  his  life,  or  ever 
keeps  an  appointment,  and  that  is  at  life's  close.  Memory  just 
now  is  too  active  in  recalling  what  was  said  and  done  in  look- 
ing up  the  odds  and  ends  of  the  thousand  things  to  be  cared 
for  in  this  last  half  day's  stay  in  Paris,  There  were  some 
hard  thoughts,  not  always  silent  ones  either.  But  it  is  all  past 
now. 

Our  hotel  was  the- scene  of  one  of  those  terrible,  mysterious 
dispensations  of  God's  providence.  A  fine,  gentlemanly,  in- 
telligent man,  a  brother  of  the  late  gallant  Colonel  May, 
retired  at  night,  apparently  in  perfect  health,  and  at  four  the 
next  morning,  his  bride  of  a  few  months  was  a  distressed,  com- 


224  A  summer's  travel  in  europe. 

fortless  widow,  "  a  stranger  in  a  strange  place,"  amid  sorrow 
and  sighing.  Her  bridal  tour  was  bright  and  beautiful  in  its 
beginning,  but  dark,  gloomy  and  sad  in  its  shock  like  close  I 
God  grant  me  to  die  within  the  consciousness  of  the  presence 
of  those  I  love  !  And  if  the  dreary  hour  comes  first  to  them, 
may  the  trace  upon  the  clock  dial  leave  no  space  ofttime  to 
tell  how  much  the  Jirst  they  went  before  me  !  I  had  rather 
know  not  the  anguish  of  the  heart's  bereavment !  "  I  ask  not 
to  stay,"  when  my  sunlight  of  earth  has  faded  away.! 

At  6i  o'clock,  A.  M.,  October  15  th,  Saturday,  all  of  Paris 
had  become  history  to  us,  as  the  railv|j|r  trains  for  Boulogne 
•carried  us  beyond  its  walls.    Francoise  Auguste  Joseph  (the 

chambermaid  !)  and  ,  the  porter  had  all  given  us  a 

"  prosperous  voyage  "  in  acknowledgment  of  the  gratitudes ; 
John  WMte's  honest  face  and  plump  hand  belonged  to  the  past, 
as  we  settled  away  each  in  a  corner  of  our  family's  coupe.  The 
juveniles'  tears  and  the  fast  falling  cold  rain  were  in  harmony 
with  our  feelings  and  appearance.  The  rest  of  us  began  to 
count  the  days  before,  with  God's  blessings,  our  seats  would  be 
in  the  cars  from  to  ,  the  end  where  home  was! 

"  Forty-two  and  a  half  francs  for  extra  luggage  from  Paris 
to  London  "  some  one  said,  which  brought  me  back  to  France, 
Room  was  made  for  two  very  agreeable  companions,  (a  Mr» 
Edward  Russell  and  Miss  Harris,  from  Dublin)  and  the 
pleasant  route  from  Paris  to  Amiens  and  Boulogne  was  trav- 
ersed with  a  sad  pleasure.  It  was  as  necessary  to  have  your 
passport  with  your  Consul's  visee  goingoiit  of  France  as  entering 
it.  At  the  railway  station  at  Boulogne,  the  passport  agent  does 
the  needful.  As  the  train  reaches  the  station,  the  knowing  ones 
hand  theirs  (with  a  franc  /  don't  forget  the  franc !)  to  the  waiter 
in  attendance,  and  then  go  for  dinner.  But  the  unwise  and 
unlearned  (perhaps  seeing  no  necessity  for  the  franc's  expendi- 
ture) stand  crowded  and  annoyed  in  a  row,  waiting  for  a  turn 
to  be  registered  among  those  who  are  to  depart  from  (not 
exactly  life)  but  France. 


# 

0  ENGLISH  COURTESY.  225 

The  waiter  (honest  soul)  very  quietly  goes  hehind  the  rail- 
ing and  places  one  after  another  of  his  armful  of  passpor^ 
before  the  disintefested  agents.  "  You  may  break,  you  may 
ruin  your  face  if  you  will,"  but  the  touch  of  that  franc  will 
bother  you  still  1  And  as  the  well  dined  owners  of  passports 
come  out  and  receive  the  document,  you  can  easier  fancy  the 
"  phelinks  "  of  the  dinnerless  and  wearied  ones  than  I  can 
describe  them.  Two  hours  in  a  smart,  spunky  steamer,  carries 
you  to  Folkestone,  across  the  channel.  Here  you  are  ruffled 
in  temper,  trunks  and  baskets,  at  the  custom  house  in  this 
quaint  old  town,  where  the  'tide  rises  and  falls  so  much  as  to 
expose  in  the  vessels  what  was  intended  to  be  covei-ed  by 
water !  Three  and  a  half  hours'  ride  brings  you  to  London. 
And  if  you  had  been  of  our  party,  you  would  have  found 
yourself  again  at  quarters  in  No.  6,  Square,  London. 

London,  Sunday,  October  16,  a  cold,  rainy  morning,  with  as 
dreary  a  prospect,  dear  reader,  as  I  suppose  you  have  in 
imagination  of  ever  seeing  the  end  of  these  travels.  Well,  for 
a  comproE^e,  then.  We  cannot  go  sight-seeing  to-day.  But 
as  Dr.  Cudiing,  the  celebrated  divine,  pastor  of  the  Scotch 
Presbyterian  Church,  has  his  usual  services,  we  will  go  there, 
to  "  Crown  Court,  Long  Acre."  A  large  audience  has  gath- 
ered, although  very  early  and  an  inclement  day. 

Iwfc  the  English  rule  for  all  strangers  attending  different 
churches,  to  remain  standing  in  the  aisle  until  after  the  first 
prayer ;  then  the  vacant  seats  by  courtesy,  are  accessible  to 
them.  The  sexton  is  assisted  in  his  duties  by  "  pew-openers  " 
who  find  seats  in  the  different  parts  of  the  church.  On  this 
morning,  however,  the  sexton  says,  "  yourself  and  ladies  may 
take  places  in  this  pew.  No. — ,  for  the  family  reside  a  long 
distance  and  I  do  not  expect  them  in  the  storm."  Acknowledg- 
ing the  civility,  we  seated  ourselves.  Rising  in  prayer,  I  was 
accosted  by  a  tall,  portly  gentleman  (?)  with,  "  What  are  you 
doing  here  ?  Come  out.  What  business  have  you  to  take  my 
family's  seats  ?    Why  didn't  you  wait  until  after  prayers  ? 


226 


A  SmiMER's  TRAVEL  IN  Eq§OPE. 


Come  out !"    Such  was  Mr.  S  's  salutation.  (I  have  his 

#ame  vocation  and  residence.)  I  replied,  "  I  was  placed  there 
by  the  sexton,  who,  I  presumed  was  giving  me  the  seat  of  a 
gentleman  /"  I  immediately  called  my  wife  and  daughter  out. 
"  Your  ladies  can  remain !"  "  No,  sir,  never.  They  are 
ladies  and  not  accustomed  to  such  rude  incivility."  The  confu- 
sion this  little  episode  produced  recalled  the  sexton,  and  other 
separate  seats  were  found. 

The  Doctor's  appearance  is  striking,  and  his  physiognomy 
characteristic  of  intellect.  His  voice  and  manner,  pleasing 
and  peculiar.  His  mode  of  explanation  of  the  Bible  lesson 
was  so  minute  and  protracted,  I  supposed  it  to  be  the  substitute 
for  the  sermon.  A  second  prayer  and  singing  of  a  hymn  pre- 
ceded a  most  interesting  and    instructive    discourse,  from 

John  .    I  recall  more  of  the  peculiarity  of  tune  and 

verse  in  the  hymns  in  the  Scotch  Church  at  Malta,  than  those 
in  use  by  this  congregation. 

In  the  afternoon,  the  two  juveniles,  with  the  patriarch  of  the 
family,  attended  service  at  St.  Paul's.  And  if  were  not 
more  in  the  "  land  of  dreams,"  than  in  appreo(P)n  of  the 
service  and  sermon,  it  was  not  the  fault  of  one  of  the  canons 
(this  one  was  of  very  large  bore,)  who  officiated,  but  to  the 
current  of  cold,  damp  air  which  came  over  the  top  of  the  screen 
where  we  were  sitting,  and  which  separates  the  choir  fr^  the 
other  parts  of  the  Cathedral. 

At  the  dinner  table  we  met  a  young  man  from  Webster? 
Massachusetts,  and  our  former  valued  friend  of  honorary 
appointment,  fix)m  Venezuela.  I  found  my  friend's  views  of 
Republican  institutions  and  government  materially  changed. 
His  own  country,  which  at  the  time  of  our  previous  stay  in  Lon- 
don, was  passing  through  the  ordeal  of  revolution  to  hoped  for 
Republicanism,  was  still  distracted  and  torn  with  anarchy  and 
confusion.  Our  discussions  were  earnest  and  warm,  and  when 
his  position  was  strengthened  and  reinforced  by  the  severe 
criticisms  and  arguments  of  our  hostess,  I  confess  my  supply  of 


OUR  Cd^NTRY'S  FUTURE. 


227 


mental  ammunition  was  well  tested,  if  sustained.  Wliat  could 
I  say  now  ? 

Again,  at  that  dinner  table,  where  the  incongruity  of  parts, 
the  incompatability  of  a  country's  progress,  power  and  being, 
guided,  governed  and  controlled  alone  by  the  respect  for  law 
and  order  which  each  citizen  may  possess  ;  with  an  institution 
as  corrupting  if  not  debasing  in  its  influence  as  the  higher 
attributes  of  humanity  ever  was  in  contact  with ;  that  which 
could  so  powerfully  appeal  to  and  satisfy  the  lower  instincts  of 
its  nature ;  a  country  bounjjlless  in  extent ;  a  population  as 
heterogeneous  as  the  world's  divisions  ;  of  every  form  and  grade 
of  character,  birth,  education  or  association  ;  could  such  a  state  of 
society,  organization  ^nd  government  continue  and  end  in  per- 
petuity,  prosperity  and  peace  ?  God  defend  us  in  this  porten* 
tons  crisis,  in  which  these  questions  of  a  careless  hour  were  dis- 
cussed and  are  now  being  so  strangely  and  so  sternly  answered. 
May  He  sustain  us  in  attempting  to  maintain  our  noble  countpy, 
the  Heaven  destined  beacon-light  of  liberty,  religion,  civilization, 
power,  prosperity  and  intelligence  to  an  anxious  world  !  May 
His  wisdom  and  power  deliver  us  from  anarchy,  strife,  sedition 
and  rebellion,  and  roll  back  the  mad  waves  x)f  disunion,  till 
the  peaceful,  gentle  influences  of  christian  sympathy,  fellow- 
ship and  brotherhood  shall  again  unite  us  in  the  "  bonds  of 
peace,"  and  we  become  a  happy  free  people,  and  our  country 
the  glory  of  the  world. 

But  for  the  compromise  there  was  to  be  in  these  crude  sto 
ries'  length  !    Monday|pnDorning  came  and  here  we  begin  it. 
Were  I  to  follow  memory  with  ray  pen,  I  should  record  a 
violent  headache ;  a  dark,  (l(lerless,  rainy  morning ;  a  call  a 
the  bankers  for  letters ;  to  the  rooms  of  the  Royal  Agricultura 

Society  ;  home  !  dinner ;  Miss  Mc  's  melody  from  the 

harp,  and  the  cheerful  {i(tsence  of  a  near  friend  and  relative 
from  home  ! 

October  17th,  would  be  the  record  of  an  early  morning's 
search  for  a  barber's  shop.  "  Pray,  why  don't  you  shave  your  - 


228  A  summer's  trave#in  Europe. 

self?"  you  ask.  I  do,  my  dear  friend,  when  necessity  requires. 
But  as  my  face  is  almost  as  sensitive  as  my  heart  (!)  which 
some  of  my  readers  well  know,  I  prefer  other  manipulations 
over  it  than  my  own.  And  if  all  were  as  rough  and  repulsive 
as  those  at  the  end  of  ray  labors,  I  should  either  look  savagely 
fierce,  with  face  covered  with  hair,  or  try  for  a  patent  extermi- 
nator of  it  as  an  unnecessary  discomfort. 

Then  came  Sydenham  with  its  crystal  palace,  wonderful 
exhibition,  beautiful  grounds  and  fountains  ;  representations  of 
antediluvian  animals  and  almost  ^heard  races  of  men,  of  more 
or  less  Afjican  descent  or  affinities,  one  in  particular,  whose 
hideous  custom  of  slitting  the  lower  lip,  and  inserting  a  round 
piece  of  wood,  making  it  to  project  horizontally,  has  been  the 
reality  of  every  dream  of  re[)ulsiveness  ;  its  finely  graveled 
walks," over  which  the  juveniles  impelled  the  velocipedes  kept 
for  hire,  and  from  which,  in  giving  them  a  start,  I  unfortunately 
caused  a  closer  contact  with  "  mother  earth  "  than  was  agree- 
able ;  its  concert  rooms  for  instrumental  and  vocal  concerts  ; 
rival  corps  of  "  bell  ringers,  mammoth  sized  organ  ;  its  beauti- 
ful, airy-like  structure  of  glass  and  iron  ;  the  whole  forming 
one  of  the  most  agreeable  excursions  out  of  London. 

Windsor  Castle  Avith  its  historic  associations,  the  attractive 
abode  of  royalty,  Virginia  Waters,  Cumberland  Lodge,  with 
its  noble  grape  vines,  out-rivalling  that  of  Hampton  Court? 
Eton  College,  the  students  at  foot-ball,  Kunnymeade,  Harrow 
Hill,  and  a  drive  to  Stoke  Churchyard,"  where  Grey  wrote 
his  Elegy,  and  within  whose  halloWjl  grounds  I  have  been 
three  several  times,  years  interring  at  each  return.  Of  all 
spots  on  earth  where  the  soul  clP  commune  with  its  mysterious 
history  of  life,  and  its  future  of  awful  reahty  or  highest  per- 
fection of  bliss,  never  as  here  have  I  experienced  such  emo- 
tions of  perfect  submission  to  God's'^ill,  of  inward  peace,  and 
could  almost  covet  the  thought  of  that  last  deep  sleep  "  that 
knows  no  waking,"  and  hope  that  my  footsteps  may  never  pass 
from  its  hallowed  Yew  tree  shade. 


A  WARM  HEART,  AN  ERRING  NATURE. 


229 


Never,  in  all  the  hours  of  suffering  and  delight,  sorrow  or 
smiles,  pain  or  pleasure,  has  the  thought  of  a  life's  story  told  been 
so  near,  and  I  could  well  add,  so  dear.  Would  that  those  im- 
pressions had  been  reality  !  Near  and  dear  friends  I  have? 
and  I  know  I  most  dearly  love  and  am  loved,  but  yet  the 
temptation  to  err,  the  weakness  that  yields,  the  sympathy 
that  bears  no  restraint,  the  response  powerful  and  impul- 
sive to  every  expression  of  affection,  the  warm  life's  blood 
pursing  around  nerves  that  vibrate  with  the  slightest 
touch  of  kindness,  how  often,  never  failing  are  these  indelible 
lines  of  character,  impulse  and  passion,  the  causes  of  sincere 
sorrow  demanding  atonement  in  earnest  supplication  to  the 
source  of  all  purity,  power  and  mercy,  rising  to  fall  again  ! 
How  often  have  the  impressions  of  the  closet  been  lost  at  its 
thresholiS,  and  the  resolutions  of  conviction  been  obliterated  by 
the  contact  of  the  passing  hour.  The  old  church,  covered  with 
ivy,  its  curious,  quaint  old  architecture,  simplicity  and  loveli- 
ness, is  a  fit  companion  to  the  moss-covered  tomb  stones  and 
dilapidated  graves.  If  there  is  one  spot  on  earth  to  me  more 
suggestive  of  Heaven  than  another,  it  is  Stoke  Churchyard. 
And  the  slip  of  ivy  the  old  female  attendant  gave  me,  lives  as 
a  memento  of  its  sad  beauty,  and  I  hope  may  yet  entwine  its 
tendrils  around  the  stone  that  shall  tell  where  all  I  was  of 
earth  has  been  laid ! 


20 


XXVIII. 


England's  REFORMATORY  institutions.* 

The  reference  in  my  last  to  "  Stoke  Churchjard  "  brings 
with  it  reminiscences  of  a  pleasant  nature  (which  I  most 
sincerely  hope  may  remain)  connected  with  a  companion 
chance  brought  to  us, — a  captain  of  cavalry  in  the  United 
States  service,  an  intelligent,  agreeable  officer,  visiting  the 
continent  upon  a  furlough.  An  evening  at  the  "  Alhambra  and 
Circus,"  a  heavy,  spiritless  entertainment,  closed  the  day's 
reverie  and  labor. 

October  21st,  in  company  with  our  very  pleasant  friend  of 
Venezuela,  our  ramble  carried  us  to  the  Boy's  Reform  School, 
of  237  Eustc)n  Road.  The  buildings  were  in  process  of  repa- 
ration, and  the  institution  was  consequently  seen  under  dis- 
advantages. The  boys  appeared  contented  and  generally  well 
cared  for,  although  the  dense  and  damp,  smoky  atmosphere  of 
London  gave  to  a  stranger,  in  their  dress  and  personal  appear- 
ance, impressions  of  neglect.  They  are  instructed  in  the 
various  branches  of  wood  and  iron  working  ;  taught  the  first 
and  more  progressive  rudiments  of  a  substantial  education ; 
required  to  observe  their  religious  duties  j  receive  wholesome 


PREVENTION  OF  CRIME  AND  DISHONOR. 


231 


food,  and  in  general  offer  no  strong  points  of  contrast  to  the 
ordinary  routine  of  labor,  confinement  and  discipline  connected 
with  similar  institutions  home.  A  model  oven  connected 
with  the  culinary  department  is  commended  to  the  investiga- 
tion" of  others  more  immediately  interested. 

At  No.  200  Euston  Road,  is  a  reformatory  home  for  fallen 
women.  There  were  twenty-one  inmates  of  different  ages  and 
attractiveness,  all  neatly  dressed  in  blue  calico  dresses,  white 
aprons  and  caps  ;  and  expressing  by  their  modesty  of  deport- 
ment, a  sensitiveness  of  observation,  which  excited  the  earnest 
prayer  for  their  success,  in  trying  to  replace  in  its  casket  (as 
far  as  possible)  the  priceless. gem  of  female  purity  and  virtue. 

A  visit  to  the  "  Ragged  School  Preventive,  of  St.  Giles," 
appropriately  came  next  in  turn.  Girls  from  twelve  to  sixteen 
years  of  age  are  gathered  in^here  from  the  highways  and  by- 
ways of  sin  and  shame,  and  when  properly  cared  i|^r,  mentally 
and  physically,  are  sent  out  to  service,  and  thus  rescued  from 
a  dishonored  life  and  a  premature  grave.  They  are  dressed 
in  the  customary  blue  calico  dresses  and  shaker-fornled  bonnets. 
Their  home  is  neatly  kept.  They  are  well  fed  with  simple, 
nutritious  food,  and  well  repay,  in  their  appearance  and  deport- 
ment, the  efforts  for  their  redemption  from  misery  and  de^ada- 
tion.    God  speed  their  safety  and  progress. 

A  call  at  the  office  of  the  Inspectors  of  Police  in  Old  Smith- 
field,  placed  us  in  contact  with  a  courteous  member  of  that  depart- 
I  ment.  Arrangements  were  made  for  a  midnight  ramble  imder 
London,  where  vice  and  crime  with  its  remnant  of  humanity's 
emotions  shrinks  from  contact  with  daylight.  Where  knives, 
fd^ks  and  plates  of  worthless  value,  are  secured  to  the  tables 
from  which  the  food  that  nature  demands  is  distributed.  A 
severe  rain  storm  on  the  evening  appointed  prevented  our 
^  intended  reci'eation  /  Since  then,  others  have  informed  me 
that  these  events  are  now  matters  of  history. 

Returning  home,  the  fourth  or  fifth  call  was  made  at  the 
office  of  Messrs.  R.  Chambers  &  Sou,  111  Fleet  Street,  in 


232 


A  SUJniER's  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 


connection  with  inquiries  and  investigations  for  property  seek- 
ing ownership  from  American  branches  of  famihes.  The  sole 
business  of  these  gentlemen  is  coi^j^ted  with  such  matters. 
An  "  office  for  heirs  next  of  kin  "  and  for  "  claims,  searches, 
and  confidential  inquiries,  established  1825."  The  attention 
to  the  request  of  a  valued  friend  and  relative  at  home,  brought 
me  in  contact  with  the  scrupulous  exactness  with  which  all 
matters  of  family  heraldry,  title  and  blood  are  kept.  Mr. 
George  W.  Collen,  of  the  Herald's  College,  has  a  private 
reference  of  over  fifty-three  thousand  names.  Where  the 
laws  of  property  are  of  the  peculiar  character  as  those  in  Eng- 
land, this  exactness  is  of  vital  importance.  I  visited  other 
offices  in  this  connection.  And  although  unsuccessful  in 
securing  for  my  friend  his  tangible  interest  in  a  comfortable 
little  fortune  of  two  or  three  millions  sterling,  the  opportunity 
gave  me  aftnsight  into  the  routine  of  similar  inquiries. 

At  dinner,  our  agreeable  companion  of  "  Stoke  Churchyard  " 
reveries  gave  us  his  presence.  In  the  evening,  accompanied 
by  a  personal  friend  of  our  hostess,  we  visited  the  mammoth 
printing  establishment  of  the  "London  Times,"  where  ten 
impressions  of  the  monster  sheet  are  struck  off'  at  once  upon 
an  ^Applegaith "  press.  One  of  Hoe's  largest  cylindrical 
presses  was  standing  idle  in  an  adjoining  apartment ;  and  it 
is  no  severity  of  judgment  in  attributing  its  motionless  condi- 
tion to  the  same  aversion  of  commendation  of  every  thing 
American,  which  characterizes  the  columns  of  that  journal  in  { 
our  present  national  crisis. 

October  22d,  a  last  straying  through  the  dead  meat  market 
of  London,  between  Newgate  Street  and  Paternoster  Row,  tife 
intricacies  of  whose  windings  it  w^^s  much  easier  to  enter  than 
leave  ;  a  call  upon  the  celebrated  Dr.  Wilson,  whose  reputation 
for  cutaneous  troubles  is  in  both  hemispheres  ;  a  return  for  my  ^ 
own  pedigree  to  Herald's  College,  in  Doctor's  Commons ;  re- 
ceiving a  caution  against  using  a  seal  with  the  family  coat  of 
arms  upon  it,  as  the  Baronet  who  claimed  it  was  living ;  visit- 


REV.  NEWMAN  HALL. 


233 


ing  Guildhall,  where  "  Gog  and  Magog  "  still  preside ;  forming 
one  of  the  crowd  around  the  arrest  of  a  crazy  woman  ;  dining 
and  subsequently ^rollin^  out  to  find  myself  surrounded  by  a 
throng  of  fallen  humanity's  impress  in  the  gentler  sex  around 
Haymarket ;  the  day's  occupation  passed  almost  as  unprofitably 
as  its  record  here. 

Sunday  morning  came  and  with  it  one  of  those  cold,  chilling, 
dense  fogs  for  which  London  is  as  renowned  as  uncomfortable. 
The  light  was  peculiar,  having  a  pale,  straw-colored  tint  as  you 
looked  from  the  windows.  The  gas-lights  were  not  required, 
but  the  fog  was  impenetrable  to  the  eye  sight  beyond  a  very 
short  distance.  My  family  had  arranged  to  hear  the  Rev. 
Newman  Hall,  preaching  in  Surrey  Chapel,  Blackfriars  road, 
and  placing  them  in  a  cab,  in  company  with  two  American 
gentlemen  recently  from  home,  I  ventured  on  foot  to  meet 
them  at  the  church.  It  was  difficult  "  wending  one's  way,"  and 
the  quiet,  unattractive  appearance  of  the  shop  windows  was 
undoubtedly  the  cause  of  much  less  "  erring  and  straying  "  than 
there  would  have  been  where  one's  head  might  easily  have 
been  turned,  and  to  follow  after  one's  nose  would  have  been 
right  wrong ! 

The  chapel  was  built  for  the  Rev.  Rowland  Hill,  and  by 
him  occupied  for  many  years.  The  reputation  of  the  present 
popular  incumbent  is  of  enviable  renown  and  well  merited.  In 
the  pew  occupied  by  my  family  was  a  venerable  old  gentle- 
man. The  remark  to  him  of  the  pleasure  and  profit  derived 
from  the  preacher's  faithfulness  in  teaching,  and  attractiveness 
of  manner  and  person,  was  met  by  his  response,  "I  am  glad 
to  hear  your  approval,  for  I  am  his  father."  The  appearance 
of  the  wretched  population  in  many  parts  of  our  walk  was  a 
strong  appeal  to  sympathy. 

Returning  over  Blackfriars  Bridge,  through  Fleet  Street,  we 
entered  the  old  Temple  Church,  a  fine  specimen  of  the  early 
English  architecture,  built  near  the  close  of  the  1 2th  century. 
This  church  is  attended  by  the  Barristers  and  students  of  law. 
20* 


234 


A  Summer's  travel  in  europe. 


The  oak  carvings  cf  the  stalls  and  benches  are  well  wrought 
and  elaborate.  A  few  curious  effigies  and  tombs  of  the  Crusa- 
ders, indicate  its  original  appropriation  as^gfie  church  of  the 
Knights  Templars.  The  musical  service  on  Sundays  is  said  to 
be  superior  in  character  and  execution. 

After  lunch,  with  the  same  companions,  St.  Barnabas, 
Pimlico,  was  attended,  and  we  witnessed  with  aversion  the 
almost  irreverent  services  of  this  exponent  of  Puseyism.  The 
prayers  and  creed  were  intoned,  as  the  polite  expresion  has 
it.  That  is,  they  were  repeated  in  a  half  singing,  drawling 
voice,  and  the  whole  service  was  of  a  character  most  highly 
satisfactory  to  the  adherents  of  Dr.  Pusey's  faith,  or  the  high 
church  ;  -but  to  ourselves  it  was  the  farthest  removed  from 
even  the  semblance  of  spirituality  or  sincerity.  The  new 
suburbs  of  Belgravia  contain  fine  residences  and  churches,  and 
have  a  freshness  strongly  in  contrast  with  the  smoked  tint  and 
dirt  of  the  city  proper. 

After  dinner,  by  some  strange  circumstance,  in  preparing  a 
paper  to  light  a  cigar,  a  "  bill  of  fare  "  from  the  "  Tremont 
House,  Boston,"  fell  to  the  floor.  As  there  were  several 
persons  in  the  room,  strangers  to  the  luxuries  of  our  first-class 
hotels,  its  long  list  of  variety  and  delicacies  seemed  to  arouse 
the  dormant  energies  for  another  dinner.  And  the  anxiety  for 
this  gratifieation  was  not  lessened  by  the  observation,  that 
breakfast  was  almost  equal  to  dinner,  and  with  a  night  supper, 
good  room,  gas-light  and  "  ice  water,"  the  bill  then  would  be 
only  ten  shillings  sterling,  per  day. 

Of  all  the  efforts  of  that  philanthropist.  Lord  Shaftsbury, 
there  is  no  one  more  commendatory  than  the  establishment  of 
the  Ragged  Schools  of  Field's  Inn  Lane."  Tl^ere  is  no 
locality  in  all  London  more  interesting.  It  was  the  very  hot 
bed  of  crime.  Traversed  by  narrow,  dirty,  dark  streets,  where 
the  houses  were  so  dense  that  they  were  connected  by  subter- 
ranean passages  in  every  direction  and  distance,  the  detection 
of  criminals  or  the  suppression  of  vice  baffled  the  most  persis- 


EXPERTS  IN  CRIME. 


235 


tent  eflforts  of  the  police,  and  the  whole  district  was  torn  down 
and  leveled,  as  the  only  possible  way  of  annihilating  the 
dark  deeds  of  infamy  and  murder  which  characterized  the 
place. 

When  the  process  of  demolition  was  in  progress,  several 
skeletons  were  found  whose  histories  are  shrouded  in  mystery. 
It  was  told  me  that  many  a  stranger  and  police  detective  was 
known  to  enter  its  mysterious  labyrinths,  but  never  seen  to 
leave  them.  Above  ground  were  the  schools  for  vice  of  every 
name  and  grade,  but  more  especially  for  the  training  of  "  pick- 
pockets." *A  figure,  the  size  of  ordinary  life,  was  arranged 
with  springs  and  bells,  and  the  customary  garments  of  daily 
wear ;  every  pocket  had  its  spring  communicating  to  the  ^ 
bell,  and  no  boy  or  girl  was  considered  an  adept  or  expert  for 
the  public  streets  and  thoroughfares,  who  could  not  clear  each 
pocket  without  a  touch  of  the  spring  or  bell. 

I  regret  my  readers  cannot  stand  upon  this  interesting  spot 
and  listen  to  the  story  of  police  officer  Mobs,  (one  of  the  oldest 
and  most  successful  of  the  London  detectives,)  and  have  him 
point  out  the  location  of  the  most  prominent  places  of  rendez- 
vous, designating  them  as  they  were  known  by  the  most  singular 
and  expressive  names.  Now  all  is  changed.  A  crowd  of 
seedy  clothed  men,  broken  merchants,  ruined  lawyers,  impover- 
ished brokers  and  bankrupt  bankers,  Jews  and  Gentiles,  here 
congregate  for  betting  on  everything  that  admits  of  a  question, 
not  excepting  the  weather.  You  can  bet,  and  find  stake  and 
bottle  holder  for  any  amount  in  cash  that  shall  not  be  in  excess 
in  proportion  or  comparison  with  the  quantity  and  quality  o^ 
the  liquor  with  which  you  give  or  take  the  wagers. 

Here,  in  this  strange  yet  appropriate  place,  are  the  first 
ragged  schools  of  London.  In  an  upper  room  of  some  thirty 
or  forty  feet  square,  with  a  male  and  two  female  teachers,  were 
gathered  some  three  hundred  children  of  diiferent  ages,  from 
six  to  twelve  ;  half  clothed,  thin,  pale  and  emaciated ;  the  off- 
spring of  debauchery  and  drunkenness  ;  of  parents  whose  only 


236 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


link  to  humanity  was  in  its  form  but  not  of  its  attributes,  the 
first  rudiments  of  learning  are  taught,  from  the  alphabet  to  the 
simple  rules  of  arithmetic,  spelling  and  writing.  After  the 
children  have  been  regular  in  their  attendance  for  two  weeks? 
they  are  clothed  in  such  suitable  garments  as  friends  have 
charitably  piovided.  It  wag  found  that  this  arrangement  of 
attendance  was  imperatively  demanded,  to  prevent  the  parent 
from  stripping  the  clothes  from  their  children  and  selling  them 
for  intoxicating  liquor,  which  was  frequently  done  when 
better  garments  were  distributed  upon  the  first  attendance  at 
the  school.  •  • 

Mr.  Frazer,  the  master,  pointed  out  several  very  interesting 
cases  of  progress  and  improvement.  Children,  in  one  year, 
have  advanced  from  the  darkest  ignorance  to  an  ability  of  read- 
ing in  the  Testament.  Many  write  fair  copy  hands,  and  the 
anxiety  for  knowledge  in  some  cases  is  very  interesting.  The 
average  attendance  is  greater  in  the  afternoon  than  morning) 
(as  the  scholars  are  sent  out  for  beggary  or  small  jobs  in  the 
earlier  part  of  the  day,  by  their  parents  or  custodians,)  and 
ranges  about  four  hundred  daily.  "  The  highest  number  in 
attendance  at  one  time  was  five  hundred  and  thirty-eight." 
After  suitable  progress  and  proof  of  their  reliability,  the 
scholars  ^e  placed  in  situations  found  for  them  by  their 
patrons,  and  the  su(jcess  thus  far  has  been  highly  satisfactory, 
"  Out  of  one  hundred  and  sixty  employers,  not  one  complaint 
has  been  preferred  against  them."  They  came  from  the 
^'  highways  and  by-ways  "  of  the  daylight,  and  boxes,  barrels, 
^sh-heaps  and  old  carts  for  their  nightly  retreats. 

I  shall  never  forget  the  mild  blue  eye,  flaxen  curls  and 
transparent  complexion  of  a  little  girl  five  or  six  years  of  age, 
with  rags  and  filth  about  her,  except  so  far  as  it  had  been 
necessarily  removed  for  sight  and  contact,  awaiting  the  term 
of  her  probation  to  have  passed,  and  her  constant  attendance 
would  entitle  her  to  farther  favors  of  clothing  and  recognition. 
Her  face  and  features  were  of  angelic  form  and  mould.  Her 


NIGHT  REFUGES  FOR  THE    HOMELESS.  237 

history  could  have  been  of  no  ordinary  origin  and  association. 
No  degradation  could  remove  from  her  the  impress  of  the 
gentle,  refined  nature  of  a  mother's  loveliness  and  delicacy  of 
birth  and  education.  The  revelations  of  ef^rnity  will  reveal  a 
story  of  shame,  corrupted  associations,  abused  confidence,  and 
misplaced  affection,  which,  in  eternal  justice,  shall  demand  its 
redress,  and  consign  to  the  lower  depths  of  retributive  remorse 
the  cause  of  such  a  fall  an.d  ruin. 

In  the  rooms  below  the  school  were  the  "  Night  refuges  for 
the  Homeless."  Eanged  in  rows,  as  wooden  cradles,  without 
rockers,  foot  or  top  ;  the  head  elevated  to  dispense  with  pillows, 
were  a  hundred  or  more  wooden  box-like  bunks  of  different 
lengths  and  sizes,  occupied  at  night  by  the  houseless  and  shel- 
terless children  and  adults  ;  not  both  sexes  promiscuously,  but 
by  either  the  one  or  the  other  as  the  separate  arrangements 
require.  Every  occupant  of  a  bunk  is  furnished  with  a  loaf 
of  bread  at  niofht  and  mornino-,  must  wash  himself  before 
retiring  and  on  rising,  and  once  «  week  receive  a  warm  bath. 
The  apartment  is  warmed  in  winter  by  a  large  stove,  well 
ventilated  in  summer,  and  thoroughly  cleansed  every  morning. 
Places  of  employment  are  found  for  those  whose  regularity  of 
deportment  and  .attendance  gives  assurance  of  no  misplaced 
confidence.  H 

The  Seventeenth  Annual  Report  says,  "  30,302  lodgings 
have  been  supplied  during  the  year  to  6,785  men  and  boys,  who 
have  received  101,192  either  six  or  eight  ounce  loaves  of 
bread.  Situations  obtained  for  239 ;  sent  to  refuges  and 
reforraatq^'ies,  113  ;  restored  to  friends,  54;  gone  to  sea,  6^; 
enlisted,  43 ;  73  had  slept  in  the  streets  from  1  to  21  nights, 
&c.,  &c."  ♦ 

Simple,  indeed,  were  the  requisitions  for  so  much  good.  It 
would  be  interesting  to  follow  the  report  of  the  Ragged  Schools 
and  Night  Refuges  farther.  Its  inexpediency  her^my  read- 
ers will  appreciate.  • 

I  hope  I  am  mistaken,  but  if  not,  England  has  no  system  of 
public  instruction.    Each  parish  is  required  to  sustain  a  school 


238 


A  SUMMER^S  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 


limited  to  one  hundred  scholars.  Beyond  this,  the  State  or 
Church  has  no  thought  for  the  ignorant  masses,  except  in  her 
Houses  of  Correction  and  Prisons,  built  as  if  in  mockery  of 
humanity's  weakness  and  temptations.  The  calculation  for 
the  m^itenance  of  royalty,  the  nobility  and  the  aristocracy,  is 
appalling  in  its  array  of  figures  and  amounts.  The  rich  and 
noble  are  very  rich ;  the  poor  and  degraded  are  very  poor. 

There  is  a  wide  contrast  in  society,  which  to  us,  in  this  free, 
favored  country,  is  incomprehensible  and  unintelligible.  And 
yet  "  My  Lord's  "  hat  is  far  below,  in  its  elevation  from  the 
head,  the  crownless  cap  of  the  ragged  beggar  boy's  shout  and 
the  "hurrah,"  as  her  majesty  "rolls  by"  with  livery  and 
luxury.  "  Where  ignorance  is  bliss  it  is  folly  to  be  wise." 
And  the  duration  of  the  ignorance  and  degradation  of  Eng- 
land's poor  will  be  commensurate  with  the  incubus  of  neglected 
care  and  provision  on  the  part  of  the  Church  and  State.  Well 
may  "  God  bless  the  Queen  "  burst  from  every  lip,  as  the 
memory  of  her  past  and  present  most  exemplary  history 
remains  vivid.  A  model  sovereign,  a  true  wife  and  mother,  a 
noble  woman  in  her  sympathies  and  philanthropies,  "  God 
bless  the  Queen,"  say  we.  But  how  long  the  glittering  coro- 
net may  satisfy  the  cravings  of  insatiate  hunger,  and  the 
barren  Avaste  of  mi^d,  when  it  is  placed  upon  another  brow,  is 
a  question  pregnant  with  meaning  and  power.  Would  that 
English  loyalty  had  its  rival  here !  and  that  the  rich  inherit- 
ance from  our  noble  sires  had  found  as  worthy  inheritors,  and 
that  no  foul  blot  of  disunion  ever  had  disfigured  and  disgraced 
our  country's  records.  ' 


XXIX. 


MIDDLESEX  HOtJSE  OF  CORRECTION. 

• 

Memory,  seldom  at  fault,  locates  the  Middlesex  House  of 
Correction  on  "  Hogarth  Hill,"  while  the  guide  books  place  it 
on  "  Cold  Bath  Fields."  The  two  designations  may  be  synony- 
mous. It  is  an  institution  somewhat  peculiar  in  its  character, 
as  it  has  two  classes  of  convicts,  those  sentenced  to  a  severe 
term  of  service  and  labor  and  others  to  a  milder  restraint  and 
discipline.  It  can  accommodate  twelve  hundred  prisoners,  who 
work  in  classes  and  shops  together,  but  sleep  alone.  The  cells 
are  six  feet  by  eight,  well  ventilated,  lighted  and  warmed,  con- 
taining a  hammock,  mattress,  blanket  and  the  necessary  arti- 
cles for  washing,  &c.  They  are  not  lighted  at  night  except 
from  the  corridors. 

They  are  called  at  6|  A.  M.,  commence  work  at  7,  breakfast 
at  8|,  dinner  at  2,  and  tea  at  5|  P.  M.  The  first  class,  of  the 
lighter  sentences,  are  allowed  one  pint  of  cocoa  and  six 
ounces  of  bread  at  breakfast,  meat  four  times  a  week,  soup 
and  potatoes  for  dinner  and  bread  and  gruel  at  night.  The 
second  class,  or  those  of  severer  punishment,  receive  gruel 
at  breakfast  instead  of  cocoa,  and  similar  rations  at  the  other 
hours.    The  term  of  sentenceis  from  five  days  to  three  years. 


240 


A  SUMRIEI^  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 


The  convicts  work  in  making  grass  mats  and  picking  oakum, 
and  in  the  milder  discipline,  are  taught  to  read  and  write  in  good 
schools,  and  the  more  advanced  pass  an  hour  in  the  chapel  in 
reading.  There  is  a  large  dormitory  for  the  accommodation 
of  one  hundred  of  the  most  quiet  and  submissive,  under  the 
charge  of  two  keepers.  Gas-light  is  used  all  night,  .and  the 
hammocks  upon  iron  rods  are  very  comfortable.  The  apart- 
ment is  warmed  by  stoves,  and  three  blankets  are  allowed 
each  convict  in  winter.  The  prison  dress  for  those  committed 
for  ^Jony  is  gray,  for  those  for  misdemeanor,  blue.  Their 
ages  are  from  seventeen  years  upwards. 

In  addition  to  other  duties  is  that  of  rope-making,  plumbing, 
carpentering,  tailoring,  shoe-making,  assisting  in  the  kitchen, 
washing,  &c.  They  are  allowed  a  clean  shirt,  towel,  handker- 
flliief  and  socks,  once  a  week.  In  this  institution  I  saw  for  the 
first  time  the  labor  of  the  tread-mills."  These  are  large  wooden 
wheels,  I  should  suppose  of  a  diameter  of  ten  orlwelve  feet,  and 
are  constructed  as  a  straight  float  water  wheel.  Directly  in  front 
of,  and  close  to  the  outside  of  the  wheels  are  partitions  some  eight- 
een inches  apart,  in  every  other  one  of  which  there  is  a  seat, 
across  the  other  a  bar  of  wood.  The  convicts  are  brought  from 
the  prisons  to  the  enclosures  containing  the  tread-mills,  (pro- 
tected from  the  weather  in  large,  shed-like  buildings,)  and 
placed  in  squads  on  the  galleries  in  front  of  the  wheels. 

At  a  given  signal,  part  of  them  mount  the  wheel,  and  their 
weight  causes  a  rotary  motion,  which  is  continuous  from  the 
constant  tread  from  one  float  to  the  other.  The  stepping  of 
the  others  allows  no  one  to  rest,  even  if  the  keen  eye  of  the 
•keeper  was  removed.  The  other  convicts,  who  were  seated, 
exchanged  places  with  those  who  had  been  at  work,  when  the 
time'  assigned  had  expired, — fifteen  minutes  I  should  think. 
Unbroken  silence  is  maintained  ;  and  this  alternation  of  work 
and  rest  is  continued  day  after  day,  if  not  for  months  and^ 
years.  Four  pair  of  mill  stones  for  grinding  grain,  and  other 
power  is  run  by  these  twenty  or  thirty  tread-mills.  How 


LIFE  ON  A  TREAD-MILL. 


241 


many  times  have  I  heard  the  exclamation  of  a  "tread-mill  life." 
Never  was  its  force  felt  before.  Step  after  step  upward,  but 
not  onward  ;  not  a  whisper  of  sympathy  or  a  cheer  of  encour- 
agement ;  not  a  word  to  break  the  awful  monotony,  but  sighs 
to  burden  its  weight ;  not  a  particle  of  progress  ;  not  a  change 
of  a  single  object ;  step  after  step  upward,  each  heavier  than 
the  other ;  the  rolling  wheel,  bewildering  the  brain,  constant 
in  its  rotation ;  step  after  step,  at  the  rate  of  forty  a  minute, — 
who  shall  ever  speak  in  idle  weariness  of  a  "  tread-mill  life  I" 

Captain  N.  Craig,  the  gentlemanly  Superintendent  of  the 
new  Government  Prison  of  the  city  of  London,  responded 
most  courteously  to  our  informal  request  to  examine  its  detail 
and  arrangements.  A  kind  reception  and  introduction  to  his 
family  at  lunch,  was  succeeded  by  his  personal  explanation  of 
the  institution  over  which  he  so  ably  presides.  The  cells  are 
nine  by  fourteen  feet  in  size,  containing  a  hammock,  table, 
stool,  wash-bowl,  closet,  gas-burner,  bell,  books,  and  well  man- 
aged ventilation  and  window  at  the  top.  The  floors  are  of 
asphaltum  and  brick.  The  convicts  are  called  at  a  quarter  of 
six  in  the  morning,  cleanse  their  rooms  and  remain  on  duty  as 
required  until  breakfast  at  7|  o'clock. 

From  8  to  9  A.  M.,  they  attend  service  in  the  Chapel,  9  to 
10  exercise  out  of  doors,  10  to  12  attend  school  or  work  accord- 
ing to  their  abiHty  or  qualifications,  12  to  1  P.  M.,  work  or 
exercise  as  may  be  demanded,  1  to  2  dinner,  2  to  4  work  or 
school,  4  to  7  again  school  or  work,  tea,  and  at  8|  in  their 
cells,  and  all  in  bed  at  a  quarter  of  nine,  as  at  nine  the  gas  is 
turned  off.  Breakfast  consists  of  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of 
cocoa  and  ten  ounces  of  bread ;  dinner,  four  ounces  of  meat, 
half  a  pint  of  soup,  one  pound  of  potatoes ;  and  for  tea,  a  pint 
of  gruel  and  five  ounces  of  bread. 

This  institution  is  a  model  one.  Captain  C.  and  his  amiable 
companion  had  been  connected  with  the  British  army  in 
Canada,  and  were  consequently  well  posted  in  American  affairs. 
Their  courtesy  is  not  forgotten,  and  was  and  is  appreciated.  An 
21 


242 


A  SUMMER  S  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 


account  of  the  "Model  Prison  at  Pentonville"  would  be 
almost  a  recapitulation  of  the  "  Prison  Mazas,"  in  Paris,  and 
both  admit  the  acknowledged  superiority  of  Moyamensing 
Prison  in  Philadelphia,  from  which  they  are  copied. 

The  number  of  this  paper  is  peculiarly  suggestive  of  its 
appropriateness  as  the  closing  one.  The  suggestion  is  adopted, 
and  from  henceforth  the  industry  by  which  the  types  have 
been  kept  in  service,  and  my  readers  submissive  to  their  use, 
will  be  no  longer  required,  but  may  be  extended  more  profit- 
ably (if  not  agreeably)  to  oUiers.  Should  any  philanthropist 
or  friend  desire  further  information  of  the  Correctional  or 
Reformatory  Institutions  of  London,  I  can  refer  them  with 
confidence  to  the  very  gentlemanly  Secretary  of  the  "  Reforma- 
tory and  Refuge  Union  of  London,"  Mr.  Charles  Gwillim,  108 
Pall  Mall,  S.  W. 

The  oven  for  baking  bread,  to  which  reference  was  made  in 
connection  with  the  Boy's  Reform  School,  was  Capt.  Grant's 
patent,  capable  of  baking  500  pounds  per  hour,  at  a  cost  of 
eighteen  pence,  and  with  cooking  furniture  complete,  is  fur- 
nished for  £150,  ($600.) 

October  24th  was  another  of  those  cold,  chilly  days,  with 
rain,  which  is  peculiar  to  London.  A  last  call  at  "  Herald's 
♦  College,"  "  Deacon's  Coffee  House,"  &c.,  for  the  final  effort  of 

hearing  of  the  property ;  at  the  bankers  for  funds ; 

excessively  annoyed  in  getting  wet  to  buy  a  stamp  from  a 
licensed  dealer,  to  put  on  the  bank  note  from  the  bankers  before 
it  would  be  cashed  ;  hon^e  for  lunch  and  dry  clothes  ;  search- 
ing, almost  hopelessly,  through  the  ignorance  and  stupidity  of 
our  cab  driver,  for  the  residence  of  our  delightful  friends  of 
Dresden  and  Bastei  memories,  and  the  fair  donor  of  the  rose 
bud  from  across  the  Atlantic  ;  home  again  for  dinner,  with  our 

friend  and  relative  from  B  ;  listening  for  the  last  time 

to  the  sweet  melody  of  Miss  McC  's  harp  ;  securing  the 

services  of  a  friend  of  our  hostess.  Major  J  ,  in  the 

matter  of  family  records,  from  Cardiganshire,  South  Wales ; 


GENUINE  HOSPITALITY. 


243 


retiring  (after  an  exchange  of  kind  expressions  of  friendship 
and  regret)  to  our  rooms  for  that  most  unsentimental  duty  of 

packing  up ;"  the  clock  told  us  midnight  had  passed,  and 
weary  and  worn  we  sought  our  last  couch  in  London. 

A  repetition  of  the  previous  day's  discomfort  in  the  weather 
greeted  us,  as  we  early  left  a  sleepless  bed,  and,  hurriedly 
breakfasting,  left,  to  history,  London  and  its  associations  of 
August  and  October,  in  18 — .  The  kindness  of  our  valued 
friend  of  delightful  memories  (from  South  America)  made 
hift,  in  the  farewell  at  the  raihyay  station,  the  "last  link"  to 
be  broken. 

TY^  ride  to  Liverpool  was  very  cold  and  uncomfortable, 
{snow  coverii  ig  the  ground  as  with  us  at  winter,)  yet  in  the  cheer- 
ful; hospitable  greeting  from  Mrs.  B  ,  153  Duke  Street, 

(and  to  enjoy  whose  hospitality  and  delightful  society,  we  had 
arranged  to  remain  until  our  leaving  for  home,  November 
•  5th)  our  discomforts  were  soon  forgotten.  Her  house  is  the 
"  American  headquarters,"  and  never  was  there  a  more  genial 
one.  The  faithful  inmate  of  my  family,  whose  kind  nursing 
at  Prague  is  in  these  papers  a  matter  of  record,  left  us  for  a 
short  visit  ho^e  to  Tipperary.  But  the  weather  had  increased 
to  a  gale  and  a  day's  delay  was  her  misfortune. 

The  week  spent  at  Liverpool  was  uncomfortable  out  of 
dSors,  as  the  weather  was  very  inclement  and  rough.  In  fact 
there  was  a  daily  record  of  disasters  at  sea.  During  this  time 
(October  27th)  the  Australian  steamed.*  "  Royal  Charter,"  with 
four  hundred  lives  and  half  a  million  sterling,  was  lost  in  the 
channel.  In  the  absence  of  the  United  States  Consul  at  Liver- 
pool, I  Was  very  fortunate  (through  the  kindness  of  H.  Wild- 
ing, Esq.,  Vice  Consul)  in  receiving  a  gallery  ticket  of  admis- 
sion to  the  great  banquet  given  to  the  Earl  of  Derby  by  his 
admirers  and  friends,  as  complimentary  to  his  administra- 
tion as  Cabinet  Minister.  It  was  probably  one  of  the 
greatest  ovations  and  festivals  ever  given  in  England.  The 
large  floor  of  the  Philharmonic  Hall  was  filled  with  tables 


244 


A  summer's  travel  in  EUROPE. 


and  guests  of  every  position  in  society,  from  the  army,  navy 
and  civil  life.  There  were  present  many  of  the  nobihty  and 
aristocracy ;  and  the  long  list  of  titled  guests  and  a  more 
detailed  account  of  the  speakers,  sentiments,  speeches,  guests^ 
expressions  of  enthusiastic  approbation  and  the  peculiarities  of 
an  English  banquet  would  prove  interesting  to  my  readers  as 
well  as  myself,  but  its  inexpediency  prevents. 

A  visit  to  the  Blind  School,  and  an  attendance  upon  their 
service  on  Sunday,  October  30th  ;  a  trip  to  Chester,  one  of  the 
most  ancient  and  peculiar  towns  of  England,  where  the  houses 
are  of  such  proximity  and  style  of  architecture,  that  you  can 
traverse  the  length  of  the  streets  under  the  porticos  ^f  the 
second  story ;  an  excursion  to  the  beautiful  buildings  and 
grounds  of  Eaton  Hall,  upon  whose  inhospitable  steps  we  stood 
for  an  hour  in  a  heavy  rain  storm  ;  purchasing  mementoes  for 
home,  and  necessaries  for  the  sea  voyage  in  contemplation ; 
listening  at  night  to  the  long  yarns  of  a  half  score  of  "  skip- 
pers," around  the  blazing  coal  fire  of  the  smoking  room  ;  en- 
joying most  .heartily  the  good  cheer  of  our  liberal  hostess,  the 
days  passed  by,  and  on  Saturday,  November  5th,  at  4  P.  M., 
the  signal  gun  was  fired  from  the  "  Canada,'*  and  we  were 
steaming  out  of  the  port  and  over  the  bar  of  Liverpool. 

For  the  first  time  our  steamer  was  to  stop  at  Queenstowij 
to  receive  the  latest  possible  news  by  telegraph  and  mails  from 
the  continent  and  London.  We  were  due  there  at  12  . M.,  on 
Sunday,  but  a  violent  gale  delayed  us  until  Monday  at  noon. 
The  bay  is  beautiful  and  entirely  land-locked.  Cork,  of  which 
this  is  the  seaport,  is  twelve  miles  distant.  At  2  P.  M.,  we 
were  again  at  sea,  and  in  the  many  passages  across  the  Atlantic, 
I  recall  none  as  dangerous  or  as  uncomfortable.  A  misstep 
by  the  object  of  my  family's  highest  affections,  the  second  day 
out,  added  the  severe  pain  and  annoyance  of  a  sprained  ankle 
to  the  existing  ills  of  a  winter's  sea  voyage.  Patient  and 
cheerful  under  the  affliction,  the  demand  u\)on  our  sympathy 
was  cordially  responded  to.  ^ 


"  HOME  AGAIN." 


245 


Our  list  of  passengers   included  the  Patroon  (Gen.  Van 
Rensselaer)  and  his  family  from  Albany,  Hon.  Messrs.  Charles 
•    Sumner  and  George  S.  Hilliard,  of  Boston,  and  a  host  of 
•friends, — strangers  as  we  met  them,  but  friends  as  we  left  them. 
A  pleasant  reunion  of  the  two  young  lady  passengers,  and  . 

•  Capti  G  and  Mr.  P  ,  of  pleasant  "  Leaping 

Water  "  memories,  was  our  good  fortune.  But  the  voyage  is 
over !  God's  unfailing  mercy  and  goodness  has  again  placed 
in  our  hands  the  warm  grasp  of  affection  and  kindness ;  nearest 
and  dearest  friends  have  again  greeted  us  ;  new  emotions  of 
love  and  friendship  have  been  created  in  the  cordia^  welcome 
home.  And  we  are  home  again,  to  give  as  free,  frank,  generous 
friendship  as  ever  flowed  from  a  warm  heart.  Home  again,  to 
reheve  my  kind  readers  from  this  tax^  upon  their  forbearance, 
and  to  solicit  their  leniency  in  the  criticism  of  these  nameless 
wanderings.  Home  again,  to  ask  that  when  the  green  mound 
shall  have  been  raised,  over  which  the  Ivy  from  Stoke  Church- 
yard may  grow,  the  world  shall  speak  gently,  and  tread  lightly 
around  it,  remembering  that  "  to  err  was  human,  to  forgive 
divine !" 


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